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Ball joints

Hooligan

Xtreme wheeler of the web
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
341
Messages
883
Loc
Sacramento
So, what’s the deal with ball joints?

New territory for me, I get they are a wear item just never had a truck with them before. My truck is a Ram 2500, but looking for generic input also as this is newb section. My truck is mixed use of driving to trail, then wheeling, probably 5k miles a year at most. Currently has 145k miles and 37s.

On a stock vehicle, what kind of mileage can be expected until they need replacement?

How is it determined they need to be replaced? Noise, shimmy while driving, jack up and shake the tire looking for play?

Looking for my truck, see that RockAuto has them form $10-50 (each), but then Carli brand is like $1,000 (all four). What is the advantage of the versions costing 4x cheaper brands?
 
Jack the front tire up about 1" off the ground.
Put a pry bar under the tire and lift up, did it move?
If it moves look at the knuckle and lift again, if the knuckle moves its the ball joints.

Depending on what year 2500 theres different types.
3rd gen and newer only have a lower balljoint, the upper (while serviced like a bj) is a straight cylidrical shank that plunges to account for variances in castings.
 
Quality = longevity. Why buy a Benchmade when Harbor Freight sells knives?

EMF is in that tier also. Small shop that makes really high-quality joints.
Sure, I get quality…but …OEM have lasted 140k miles (assuming they are orig), what more in quality does one need? Is there a noticeable driving difference?

Truck is running 37s now, so perhaps OEM would have died long ago if that is what it had all along.

I see many advertisements indicate they are rebuildable , with out having to press them out. Is pressing them out that big of a deal? Perhaps it is is for rust belt trucks.
 
It is hard on the bores and the bj bodies.

If you can get rebuildable that dont require removal get those.

Idk about the aam axles but 2nd gens have a reputation of blowing out the bores. They started making oversized bj housings that ultimately just compound the issue, after those (moogs) are installed you cant really go back to the spicers.
 
Replace with OEM. Green loctite and don't lose a minute of sleep over it.
 
Recently did mine in my 94 ctd using a hf tool bj press.

I highly suggest finding a machinist to make proper sized spacers to remove them in conjunction with the hf press. The job is supposedly a nightmare, but with those spacers its a breeze.
 
Here is driver side, sure seems like more movement than it should have. Ball joint time?
 
I think Dodge claims more than .090" worth of movement is worn out, Dodge also uses plastic in their ball joints. They didn't last 140,xxx miles, they've been worn out for a long time!
 
All bj have plastic cups.

The dyna's the cups are replacable.

From the math ive done for customers, buying rebuildables cost vrs standards you need to plan on keeping the truck long enough to get 3 rebuilds before you save anything. Thats g/o/t 300k miles.

If it were my truck or you were my cust those are smoked.
 
Thanks all for the input. I’ll get parts on order.

Also Fixing steering box leak and exhaust manifolds. Nothing lasts forever.
 
All bj have plastic cups.

The dyna's the cups are replacable.

From the math ive done for customers, buying rebuildables cost vrs standards you need to plan on keeping the truck long enough to get 3 rebuilds before you save anything. Thats g/o/t 300k miles.

If it were my truck or you were my cust those are smoked.
EMF are all metal.



Rebuild kit, pin and races:
8607-REBUILDKIT.jpg
 
another option for you if the truck has the AAM axle. I'll be putting these in my 2018 when the time comes

 
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