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Ball joint question... Dynatrac or American iron

You guys looking for ultimate strength AND longevity crack me up. You get one or the other with these types of things, not both.
Meh....1st world expectations. 🤷‍♂️
 
Were they the old dynatrac ball joints or the current rebuildable ball joints that use a replaceable uniball in them, very much like the “ball joint delete”?
My experience was probably for the 2013 season. They were re-buildable ball joints, but I would have needed to do so very regularly, which was not in my prep budget in terms of time or money. The other problem was that they hung down very far from the "C" and they were torn up by rocks to the point the cir-clips didn't work properly when re-built.

After galling a couple sets of Yukon Superjoints (Again, they also require constant maintenance) I ended up going back to Spicer parts there as well for less maintenance.

I'm not sure if they've changed in 10 years. :homer:
 
99-04 and i did the busted knuckle bje kit and have moog lowers.

with how much time, money and effort i spent into tricking out a SD60 outer assembly (JHF high steer, branik brakes, opened up unit bearings, 50deg shafts, ctms joints) my thought was buy once, cry once with throwing in the busted knuckle BJE kit. install was simple and time will tell how well they hold up. the upper balljoint just looked too weak to feel comfortable just leaving it IMO.
 
I'm actually not that impressed. I guess the bronze bushing just kinda floats in the inner C? That doesn't seem like that great of a system.

I know the stock upper BJs have the tapered sleeve in that spot also, but they aren't using the taper in it as a wear point. The taper actually locks in the sleeve to the C in the stock setup.
 
I'm actually not that impressed. I guess the bronze bushing just kinda floats in the inner C? That doesn't seem like that great of a system.

I know the stock upper BJs have the tapered sleeve in that spot also, but they aren't using the taper in it as a wear point. The taper actually locks in the sleeve to the C in the stock setup.
Kind of like a kingpin.
 
Kind of like a kingpin.
Yeah, maybe. It supports no axial load much like a kingpin upper, only radial. I admit that in these vehicles I think having both joints load bearing is overkill, the upper needs to mostly resist steering forces.
 
I'm actually not that impressed. I guess the bronze bushing just kinda floats in the inner C? That doesn't seem like that great of a system.

I know the stock upper BJs have the tapered sleeve in that spot also, but they aren't using the taper in it as a wear point. The taper actually locks in the sleeve to the C in the stock setup.

Not sure where you got that from, did you actually watch the video? :flipoff2:
 
I’ve been running the Dynatrac BJs on the ‘07 superduty 60 under my duramax truck with various 37” tires for the past 11 years. Only light wheeling and daily driving without issues until recently the lower driver’s side joint started making noises. With that I purchased a rebuild kit for the joints. But haven’t gotten around to rebuilding them yet.
 
We just installed a set of the previous gen Busted knuckle uppers which they say they didn't have many of any issues with at all but wanted to build something even stronger for the rock bouncers.

At least they are greasable.

Friend put a set of them American iron deletes in in a JK Dana 44 and they were junk within a season (4-6 months).

We run through a lot of water and their design just can't hold up to that.
 
The way I understood was that it had like a reverse pinch that locked it in.

I get that's not going to be wieght bearing, but not floating either?
Correct, that might keep everything from dropping down, but that whole assembly has nothing keeping it from being pushed up. Granted, you'd have to deform the knuckle or inner C to do that.

The only thing keeping the bronze bushing from rotating in the inner C is the fact that the back of it keys into the upper C. I suppose the little set screw that is supposed to spread the upper part of the bronze to keep it from dropping down, might also help to clamp it inside the upper BJ bore. Its hard to tell from the pics and video. I could see all that stuff coming loose over time though and the bronze wearing the inside of the C instead of the tapered stud.

The factory upper BJ and adjuster sleeve work well since the C, adjuster sleeve, and BJ stud don't turn. When you tighten it up, it all locks together and tapers are really good at locking together.
 
I agree, it doesn't seem like a set it and forget it for a year type of thing. I've heard some say the same thing about spring less kingpin steering arms on a daily driver.

Goes back kinda too what slowpoke said, if you want ultimate strength, there is going to be some compromise.
 
I agree, it doesn't seem like a set it and forget it for a year type of thing. I've heard some say the same thing about spring less kingpin steering arms on a daily driver.

Goes back kinda too what slowpoke said, if you want ultimate strength, there is going to be some compromise.
Been running spring less kingpins with bronze bushings for 3 years on my driven to the trail Scout. Seen close to 15k km. Never had to readjust, just grease them after every wheeling trip.
 
Been running springless kingpins with plastic bushings on my jeep buggy for 13yrs now and still no slop, although it only gets out once or twice a year.

I think it works for them for what they are doing. They don't need the load capacity of the upper and what they are doing makes the radial capacity of the knuckle much greater. On a buggy that doesn't see a lot of miles and gets looked at more frequently I'm guessing this works out ok.
 
Been running spring less kingpins with bronze bushings for 3 years on my driven to the trail Scout. Seen close to 15k km. Never had to readjust, just grease them after every wheeling trip.

I haven't got a chance to run mine enough to form an opinion. My buddy has them on a TJ on 37s and was driving it a lot. Said he was surprised how often he had to adjust.
 
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