What's new
By:
Filters

Ball joint alignment sleeves - why to avoid

rattle_snake

rattle_snake

Fuckwits
Joined
Jun 23, 2020
Member Number
2156
Messages
1,538
Loc
Chandler, AZ
Can be used as a band-aid to offset negative caster induced by lifting a radius arm type front suspension.

They work by tilting the top ball joint at a steep angle, to effectively tilt the knuckle back a small amount buy moving the top back.
This causes the axle to no longer be aligned with the axle tube/diff, as it moves roughly half the distance back as the top of the knuckle.
This is a 2* shim (biggest you can get for a 60), it appears to move top of knuckle about 3/8-1/2". So axle is off by 3/16+. Slop in diff splines allow. Short side inner seal probably doesn't like it.
DX7mK4EX2nxzlfqz5tJl8sSkln=w727-h969-no?authuser=0.jpg


And may cause ball joint seals to fail quickly.
1x_Am80h-sesYcZfSKLOJ4GBx=w1292-h970-no?authuser=0.jpg


So :flipoff2: 'em. Fix it right.
 
Huh. I was just looking at using some of those as a bandaid to help avoid a cut/turn.

How would they affect BJ seals? :confused: Obviously that one's bad, but...
 
Seals are small and tight and in aolid knuckle applications reall not ment to tilt more than a fraction of a degree to account for c and knuckle misalignments.

These sleeves also only apply in particular axles as some modern axles dont even use "ball joints" on the uppers anymore. Cylidrical plunging sleeves is the best way i can discribe them. Look like a bj but they do not articulate/lean. They plunge in/out for variance but only spin/rotate on the vert axis.

There have been dozens of ways to correct castor/camber over the decades, most dont even apply to todays vehicles. Adjustable arms would be the way to go for any linked vehicle.
 
rattle_snake said:
The steep angle the BJ has to operate at all times. These are 'new' Spicer BJs, trashed by the sleeves.
Click to expand...
The joint doesn't care. It's spherical. And the angle is nowhere near steep enough to be side loading the wear bits inside the joint.
 
This has been bugging me.

It's the canted angle that causes a problem, not the offcenter hole. It looks like not all axles/brands are canted?

For example, on an 05+ D60:



Screen Shot 2022-10-03 at 1.06.05 PM.png


The ones shown above can only go to the edge of the adjuster. The ones like Rattlesnake posted cantilever the ball past the edge of the hole, for greater adjustment.

DX7mK4EX2nxzlfqz5tJl8sSkln=w727-h969-no authuser=0.jpg
 
Are the shims installed top and bottom? If so, they could both offset the same amount and effectively rotate the knuckle around the shaft...
 
The concentric style does remove the issues I have presented.

Cari claims 2*, which is marginal for a typical 2" front lift on a SD. Given that the ones I posted move ball farther, how are they both 2*? Marketing?

I bought shims for my 2014 and refused to put them in, returned them to PFM. Would not compensate for a 2.5" lift. caster would end up at -1* which is shit. So I modified the radius arms for free by moving bolt holes for +3.5*. Then went back and did 1.5 more to handle 3.5" of total lift. Caster is 3.5 total. No way to get even close with shims

DSCF0030_zpsa873e66f.jpg


RA metal is paper thin. Welding washers on as an overlay is beneficial.
DSCF0001_zps1fed99b5.jpg


No spacer or brackets
DSCF0008_zps45d02769.jpg
 
Last edited:
rattle_snake said:
The concentric style does remove the issues I have presented.

Cari claims 2*, which is marginal for a typical 2" front lift on a SD. Given that the ones I posted move ball farther, how are they both 2*? Marketing?

I bought shims for my 2014 and refused to put them in, returned them to PFM. Would not compensate for a 2.5" lift. caster would end up at -1* which is shit. So I modified the radius arms for free by moving bolt holes for +3.5*. Then went back and did 1.5 more to handle 3.5" of total lift. Caster is 3.5 total. No way to get even close with shims

DSCF0030_zpsa873e66f.jpg


RA metal is paper thin. Welding washers on as an overlay is beneficial.
DSCF0001_zps1fed99b5.jpg


No spacer or brackets
DSCF0008_zps45d02769.jpg
Click to expand...
And your pinion is still happy? Those washers rotate the whole axle, like leaf spring shims would? Looks like a good way to go.
 
These are fairly common in the TTB differentials BUT they're mainly used for camber NOT caster like a solid axle. I designed my front end to run 0 degree shims to keep everything alive as long as possible. I've ran them at 2.5 deg for camber and have noticed a slightly shorter life span on upper ball joints so I avoid using them if at all possible
 
TTMotorsports said:
... I designed my front end to run 0 degree shims to keep everything alive as long as possible. I've ran them at 2.5 deg for camber and have noticed a slightly shorter life span on upper ball joints so I avoid using them if at all possible
Click to expand...
That is the other issue, once you put in max angle sleeves, you can't have your truck 'aligned', as they would have to replace the sleeve you just put in.
I also use 0*/0* shims and fix the geometry elsewhere so I can get an alignment later if needed.
 
americanironoffroad.com

AI-1200 Ball Joint Delete™ System for Ford Super Duty Dana 60 & Ultima

*HIGH CLEARANCE VERSIONS REQUIRE WELDING AND ARE NOT ZINC PLATED*The Race Series kits feature a split-tapered bushing which expands as preload is added to the assembly ensuring a precise fit. The customer can trim the top flange of the bushing based on caster/camber needs, the kit includes...
americanironoffroad.com americanironoffroad.com

I went this route after finding a bent upper ball joint on my SD60
 
rattle_snake said:
That is the other issue, once you put in max angle sleeves, you can't have your truck 'aligned', as they would have to replace the sleeve you just put in.
I also use 0*/0* shims and fix the geometry elsewhere so I can get an alignment later if needed.
Click to expand...
Yeah, turning the Cs is the right way to go, but a bit more work!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh