Audio help... Rocs and Docs, Bats and Dogs, Beowulf's nemesis and other ruffians.

[Bondage]

Help me choose what I need in gear.

Back story; I have 67 3/4T IH Travelette that I am re... creating? Shit box on the outside, Platinum Escalade Denali on the inside. Metal work is done, the interior is gutted, and I am about to start the NVH portion, starting with Dynamat/Resonix, ccf, ocf, Rock Wool , and possibly spray foam. New weather stripping, window felts etc. will get done. My approach is similar to project Gnome, just think of me as a 6'4" gnome.

Unfortunately this is where I am starting to be in over my head, in other words, I know fuck all.

What I want is an integrated system that will give creature comforts common today, but non existent in 67. I want remote power door locks, remote start, remote seat heaters (because I live in a land of ice and snow). Cruise, comms, nav, AC, and audio. All this preferably with a single wireless interface, Tablet and or smart phone. Does this exist? Is it possible?

My primary goal at the moment is to select and place my future audio components. Amp(s), sub(s), tweeters, mids, and woofers, DSP? While I am old and have tinnitus from inadequate hearing protection on the range, my wife has good hearing and can sing well. Varied musical tastes, all FLAC recordings though. Walter Becker, Beck, KD Lang, Kraftwerk, Nils Frahm in small doses, Pink Floyd, Rush, BOC,

First off my a pillars are a wee bit skinny for anything, so, door window sill? (purple) A pod on the side of the dash (red)? In dash, reflecting off windshield? Mids, upper kick panel? Woofers, lower door? Sub(s) behind rear seat, not under due to potential water ingress.

That's enough for now.

 

[Santa]

Dont know WTF you are talking about...but my nipples are hard

 

[Roc Doc]

Jason is ur boi. ProjectTwin .

Car audio has progressed way past what I used to know.

Hung out with Walter Becker and talked Django Reinhardt with him backstage one time. Thats all I've got.

 

[ArTi54N]

red over purple definetly.. the farther away, the more even of a front stage.. thats old school and should not have changed..

however we used to have to make our own kick panel enclosures, for the mids.. some people like to leave the tweets close to the mids, some say horns under the dash are better.. i don't know.. but you can buy kits for mounting your high mids and tweets together in the kick panel..

if your gonna include a 6 inch or so low-mids in the doors, it doesnt matter how you aim them as much

are you driving a 4 door??

edit: I just checked and Q-Form kick panel enclosures still exist.. oh and if you have a friend who can fiberglass or whatever.. instead of dropping your tweets to the kick with your high-mid.. maybe you can make pods for both, up high by your dash?

 

[ArTi54N]

I will go into more detail.. Q forms used to be only so good in the mid 90s.. they improved them through the years, i don't know how good they are now.. we used to reinforce them, and make minor changes.. all you need to fit in them is maybe a 4 inch coaxial mid and hi.. depending oh the look you might want to place them in pods up high, like off the pillar or by the windshield.. if you wanna save a little money there are lots of companies that make pods, you don't have to go q-form..

like i said before the 6 inch or so speakers for the door don't need to be aimed etc.. bass will sound like its coming from everywhere.. thats just how bass works.. the same can be said to 6 to 6 1/2s.. it doesn't matter as much as it does with your highs

sound design is a constant.. the principles of sound are a constant.. I used to spend time around lots of professionals who were often in the magazines, I could share pics with some of the ones who stayed in magazines a lot.. i was also staff for mobileaudioworld.com.. which went away maybe 12 years or so ago.. I learned many things, and the most important was you don't want to be an installer for many reasons.. had lots of friends who owned or ran businesses.. and even more who just worked at those shops.. i never got emcp certified, i was studying for the test tho..

I just can't sleep..

I have a project in mind, I have a deck which is worth 300 still.. (Eclipse 5302).. maybe I can mount it on the wall, in a frame that would also have 2 Phoenix Gold MS 275s (white) and an MPS 2240 (white).. the 2240 is scratched up a lot, so maybe I can cover it with plexiglass and flip it to show the insides.. I was gonna transplant all this in my 4x4.. I was planning on mounting the amps up high on the roll cage to protect them from muddy water.. but secure them so they can't be easily stolen.. just one of the projects i was workin on when i totaled my 4x4.. or maybe i could just sell everything together on ebay.. it's worth maybe 1100.. i checked just now

 

[Carbon]

Audiofrog
GB60
GB15
GB615c
600 watts

I've been playing around with active for a few years and it's a pain in the ass. Andy's crossovers are so good you will have a hard time beating them with a diy tune..

Active go TWK88 for super easy or go Helix for the quality and most options.

Audiomobile EVO sub.
750 watts

Pick your power. I like JL HD just cuz it works.

Of course, there are are many boutique brands that are always fun.

 

[ProjectTwin]

OK...

In the Chevelle I ran into the same shit you ran into.

My advice is to do what I did and go with some Stevens Audio HLCDs (horn loaded compression drivers) under the dash. If you get the mini horns they'll play from 1100hz and up. The large body horns will play from about 800hz and up. The sound will be at eye level. The CompNEO mini horns are $799/pr.

I'm currently running Stevens Audio MB8-2 8" midbasses in the kick panels of the car. I'll be switching to these Beyma 10s when I rebuild the car.

I've been running a pair of DD Audio 3015s in a 4th order blow-through in the trunk with the port through the rear deck.

That setup won a state championship in 2-seat sound quality with 40 minutes of tuning.

By going with the HLCDs under the dash and 8s in the kicks (go with 10s if you can fit them) you don't have gaudy fucking speakers cluttering up the interior. That was my goal with the '66 Chevelle - upgrade it and keep it looking as stock as I could.

Now...with something like a HLCD playing such a wide frequency range you'll want something more than a JL TWK 88 or one of their VXi amplifers. Those units have a 10 band parametric EQ and you'll want more than 10 bands of EQ to dial in and tune those horns. You could always take two of the output channels and send them into unused inputs on the TWK to gain an additional 10 bands of EQ, though.

If you want to get a processor that will self-tune with Dirac Live, you can get the mini-DSP C-DSP 8x12DL. Their OLED remote is nice, but doesn't come with the unit.

A lot of guys are using Helix processors and playing directly from their Hi-res media player into the processor. No head unit.

For subs behind the seat the Stereo Integrity BM mkV is the way to go. Mounting depth is 3.4" and they only need .6ft^3 per sub.

The closest competitor is JL 13TW5 and those things are much more expensive. The SI BM mkVs stomp all over them in performance and sound quality. More output and better sound.

A couple of photos from when I slammed the Stevens horns into the car. I never built beauty panels/grilles to hide them, but I have material here.

The old-school Kleenex dispenser between the horns houses my Sony RSX-GS9. I have a Craig AM/FM 8-track that I bought NIB and installed in the dash. That feeds into the high level inputs of the GS9 so I can listen to the radio or 8-tracks and keep the old-school feel of the car.

I put the controller for the Helix processor in the black dash strip...

It is set to time out after a few seconds. When it does the display turns off. Hardly noticeable in the dash. I also have my Bluetooth mic in that dash strip.

I went to the junk yard and grabbed a sun visor from a Lincoln that had Homelink controls in it. I pulled the stitches from my factory Chevelle visor and installed the Homelink unit into the visor before stitching it back together.

I drilled the visor hinge and ran the wiring through the hinge.

I'll be installing Autoloc's window switches into the car so I can keep the factory appearance and have power windows. Still need to order power window kits. Thinking I'll use SPAL units.

Cruise control will depend on what engine you're using. Dakota Digital has a nice unit for LS swapped vehicles.

There's also a cruise control system from Dakota kit for cable-driven speedos.

Dakota also has a nice controller for Gen IV Vintage Air units.

 

[ProjectTwin]

When it comes to sound deadening I'm shooting every bit of work I do on the demo vehicle for Stereo Integrity. Aside from yanking the dash, that car is a full gut to bare metal and rebuild.

There's a playlist on my YouTube channel for the car here and a playlist dedicated to sound treatment here.

Heck, there's a thread here in shit shat about the car.

I'm still working on sound treatment. Waiting on more product to arrive and I'll get back to shooting video for that, but there's a ton of info on how to do shit correctly in my sound treatment playlist.

I recommend Second Skin for sound deadening/treatment.

 

[Bondage]

Jason is ur boi. ProjectTwin .

Car audio has progressed way past what I used to know.

Hung out with Walter Becker and talked Django Reinhardt with him backstage one time. Thats all I've got.

I hate you...🤣:middelfangers:

 

[Bondage]

OK...

In the Chevelle I ran into the same shit you ran into.

Snip.

I am at a loss for words, beyond thank you. I did not expect such a detailed and thorough reply, but I am grateful. Following the Audi build.

PS Love, love, love the Chevelle. (and your GSD)

 

[Bondage]

When it comes to sound deadening I'm shooting every bit of work I do on the demo vehicle for Stereo Integrity.
I recommend Second Skin for sound deadening/treatment.

I think I have gone from following you to full on stalker. Your work is amazing.

 

[ProjectTwin]

I am at a loss for words, beyond thank you. I did not expect such a detailed and thorough reply, but I am grateful. Following the Audi build.

PS Love, love, love the Chevelle. (and your GSD)

I don't mind helping. I highly suggest the Stevens horn with appropriate midbass in the kicks. Keeps the interior clean.

BUT...if you go with the HLCDs you'd better have someone that knows how to install/tune them or you'll hate them. And hate me for suggesting them.

I think I have gone from following you to full on stalker. Your work is amazing.

I have a shitty channel on the YouTube if you want to watch me fumble through speech while trying to shoot video with a migraine. :rolleyes:

 

[ProjectTwin]

I want remote power door locks, remote start, remote seat heaters (because I live in a land of ice and snow). Cruise, comms, nav, AC, and audio. All this preferably with a single wireless interface, Tablet and or smart phone. Does this exist? Is it possible?

I missed going over some of this.

You can add power locks to the thing with simple door lock actuators. Then you'd need to get you favorite flavor of interior switches for the door locks - or none at all.

A generic heated seat kit will work.

Nav is handled by smart phones these days.

AC should be Vintage Air Gen IV.

Now, with the power door locks and heated seats installed you could get an alarm/remote start system like a Compustar or Viper. Compustar has Drone Mobile - an app that lets you use your cell phone to see the status of the vehicle and remote start/lock/unlock from the phone. Viper has the same basic thing and they call it SmartStart.

Now...since you don't have a trunk to open, you could set up the alarm system to actuate something else...like turning on your heated seats.

 

[Bondage]

I don't mind helping. I highly suggest the Stevens horn with appropriate midbass in the kicks. Keeps the interior clean.

BUT...if you go with the HLCDs you'd better have someone that knows how to install/tune them or you'll hate them. And hate me for suggesting them.





I have a shitty channel on the YouTube if you want to watch me fumble through speech while trying to shoot video with a migraine. :rolleyes:

I am subscribed.

We didn't talk much about amps, a separate dsp means simpler amp(s) and I was thinking a HELIX H 400X | 4-Kanal Verstärker | 4x70 Watt | Audiotec Fischer (audiotec-fischer.de)] Helix 400x [/url] for tweets and mids and a Helix c one for subs

Edit, maybe stuff with better value, if they exist.

 

[HillbillyDeluxe]

Projectwin ballpark me a price on sound deadening my 379 Peterbilt and then doing an epoxy floor in the cab.

PM me if you want.

 

[ProjectTwin]

I am subscribed.

We didn't talk much about amps, a separate dsp means simpler amp(s) and I was thinking a HELIX H 400X | 4-Kanal Verstärker | 4x70 Watt | Audiotec Fischer (audiotec-fischer.de)] Helix 400x [/url] for tweets and mids and a Helix c one for subs

Edit, maybe stuff with better value, if they exist.

Helix stuff is nice.

Here's what's going in the Audi. Class AB with TO3 outputs. No input filtering, no crossovers, nothing but a gain control for level matching.

 

[ProjectTwin]

Projectwin ballpark me a price on sound deadening my 379 Peterbilt and then doing an epoxy floor in the cab.

PM me if you want.

Would need to know square footage of all of the panels you want treated (including the roof) and how in-depth you want it treated.

Damplifier Pro is $667 for 120 sq ft of material. That's the first layer.

Then you'd apply Heat Wave Pro, which is the thermal jute layer. That's $329 for 120 sq ft.

Then there's the third layer, which can be simple MLV (Luxury Liner) or Luxury Liner Pro, which has an additional layer of closed cell foam bonded to it. Luxury Liner is $269 for 100 sq ft and Luxury Liner Pro is $587 for 90 sq ft.

For the roof I'd use Damplifier Pro and then Mega Zorbe for sound/heat insulation.

If you're ripping the interior apart to apply one product, you may as well go whole hog with it.

Epoxy floor? I'm lost on that one.

It's spendy, but in the end it's stupid quiet inside and you'll retain AC and heat so well that the outside of the doors will be frozen and only the windows will thaw in the winter.

 

[crispins]

Help me choose what I need in gear.

Back story; I have 67 3/4T IH Travelette that I am re... creating? Shit box on the outside, Platinum Escalade Denali on the inside. Metal work is done, the interior is gutted, and I am about to start the NVH portion, starting with Dynamat/Resonix, ccf, ocf, Rock Wool , and possibly spray foam. New weather stripping, window felts etc. will get done. My approach is similar to project Gnome, just think of me as a 6'4" gnome.

Unfortunately this is where I am starting to be in over my head, in other words, I know fuck all.

What I want is an integrated system that will give creature comforts common today, but non existent in 67. I want remote power door locks, remote start, remote seat heaters (because I live in a land of ice and snow). Cruise, comms, nav, AC, and audio. All this preferably with a single wireless interface, Tablet and or smart phone. Does this exist? Is it possible?

My primary goal at the moment is to select and place my future audio components. Amp(s), sub(s), tweeters, mids, and woofers, DSP? While I am old and have tinnitus from inadequate hearing protection on the range, my wife has good hearing and can sing well. Varied musical tastes, all FLAC recordings though. Walter Becker, Beck, KD Lang, Kraftwerk, Nils Frahm in small doses, Pink Floyd, Rush, BOC,

First off my a pillars are a wee bit skinny for anything, so, door window sill? (purple) A pod on the side of the dash (red)? In dash, reflecting off windshield? Mids, upper kick panel? Woofers, lower door? Sub(s) behind rear seat, not under due to potential water ingress.

That's enough for now.

I would join over at https://www.diymobileaudio.com/

That area is full of very experienced installers that have built everything and your build is unique enough to get their attention.

You will get all the info and help you could ever want over there for sure.

 

[Bondage]

I would join over at https://www.diymobileaudio.com/

That area is full of very experienced installers that have built everything and your build is unique enough to get their attention.

You will get all the info and help you could ever want over there for sure.

I spend a bit of time over there, but while "this place" is new, the people here for the most part, are vouchsafed in their area of expertise, and a known quantity. As an example, Jason, he's been "here" a long time, mislead no one and presented super cool projects with no chicken shit policy.


I still remember 2005 .