Anyone work with kydex?

Pony_Driver

Pony_Driver

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Preferred methods?

I am planning on using .080 kydex to make a couple of sheaths for knives.

Best tools? Decent tools? Do you ever use Chicago screws?

Pro tips?


Is it worth getting something like this? KING PIECES Grommet Tool Kit Handheld Hole Punch Pliers Portable Grommet Hand Press Machine Manual Puncher w/ 500pcs Silver Grommets of 1/4 Inch (6mm): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I think my low volume would make this a decent choice Amazon.com: C.S. Osborne Midget Grommet Die Setter #235-0 Size 0 (1/4") Made in USA : Industrial & Scientific
 
I've used both for leather. Chicago screws are good for locations that need to be adjustable but they will work loose. Get loctite.

Grommets can be a good permanent connection but can be persnickety. Expect to ruin some with a hand set. The arbor press style is better but not absolutely needed.
 
I use the little punch and anvil set up for the rivets and use Chicago screws for attaching stuff.

I made a thing with a hinge and some sleeping pad material to squeeze it. I heat the kydex with a heat gun or with a hotplate I got at goodwill.

it will take a while before the stuff you make doesn’t look like ****.
 
I started with sleeping bag pad material and then bought press pads. Grab a cheap toaster oven at walmart. Its easier to get even heating across the kydex sheet. I use an arbor press for most rivet work but have a punch and anvil for rivets that are close to the formed kydex. I have part of the anvil ground away so I can get in close. I have both a book press and a straight press.the book press is great for "book or taco" designs. Where you fold one sheet over on itself. Ive done knife sheaths, iwb owb hybrid pistol and revolver holsters with lights and optics, flashlight, and phone holders, single and double stack, ar15 and ar10 mag holders. I use primarily .080" but have used the .060". Just plan your pattern and be prepared to waste some plastic.
 
Stuck’s comment reminded me, don’t be afraid to use what will look like too much kydex. It is way better to have to trim a bunch off than to discover you didn’t leave enough to get the rivets in or grind it smooth.
 
You can put things with patterns/structure between the press pads and the workpiece to give your stuff a unique look. For example thin eps. cloth. leather, leaves
 
DMG said:
Stuck’s comment reminded me, don’t be afraid to use what will look like too much kydex. It is way better to have to trim a bunch off than to discover you didn’t leave enough to get the rivets in or grind it smooth.
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This. Always leave extra. I use a bandsaw to trim and then little scotchbrite type buffers in my dremel to smooth, then a polishing wheel to burnish the edges. I like smooooth. Like my iwb for my g43. I was chilling on the couch typing my replies last night with it in my wasteband. Had it on all day and dont even notice it laying on the couch. Make sure to cover more than you think. You can trim later. Dont forget blocking to leave space for rubber washers so you can adjust the tightness as well.

Amazon is probably the cheapest for supplies, especially the kydex and chicago screws. .060 makes for good impressions but dont use it in a high flex piece as it tends to break.
 
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Link to the arbor presses you guys recommend?

I mostly want to make some sheathes for butcher knives and a couple of blades I put handles on.
 
Pony_Driver said:
Link to the arbor presses you guys recommend?

I mostly want to make some sheathes for butcher knives and a couple of blades I put handles on.
Click to expand...
Any small arbor press will work. I just bought whatever cheap one I found on amazon 7-8 years ago. If you get one from horrible freight you need the post and anvil for rivits but there should be presses on amazon that have them.

Mine is similar to this but I only paid $50 for it with the post and anvil. That price is ridiculous.



Heres an anvil set like mine.

BQLZR 6mm Hand Press Machine Setter Metal Eyelets Fastener Tool Grommet Die Pattern Die 400#: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

BQLZR 6mm Hand Press Machine Setter Metal Eyelets Fastener Tool Grommet Die Pattern Die 400#: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
 
Pony_Driver said:
You get his happy ass on here, I'll buy him a skull. I hate looking at ZuckerBook.
Click to expand...
I said call him :laughing: He won't join up here, he's got too much **** going on as it is. You heading down this way anytime soon?
 
Stuck said:
This. Always leave extra. I use a bandsaw to trim and then little scotchbrite type buffers in my dremel to smooth, then a polishing wheel to burnish the edges. I like smooooth. Like my iwb for my g43. I was chilling on the couch typing my replies last night with it in my wasteband. Had it on all day and dont even notice it laying on the couch. Make sure to cover more than you think. You can trim later. Dont forget blocking to leave space for rubber washers so you can adjust the tightness as well.

Amazon is probably the cheapest for supplies, especially the kydex and chicago screws. .060 makes for good impressions but dont use it in a high flex piece as it tends to break.
Click to expand...
care to share your iwb?
 
Its not fancy. Its just a "taco" holster. Im just very careful on how I form and trim so theres no sharp corners or edges. Everything is rounded over and smoothed.

I use 1/4" ply with the edges rounded over as the blocking in front of and under the barrel to the fornt of the trigger. I also put a strip of ply the height of the front sight on top of the slide to make a tunnel for the sight to draw out of.

Once formed I trim the kydex where it rounds over in front of the barrel and where it folds down over the blocking under the barrel. It makes the edges really smooth and comfortable. The blocking in front 9f the trigger is used to make a space for the rubber grommets and chicago screws I use to adjust tension.

A lot of the holsters I see have really sharp impressions. Especially the ones that use .060. Thats one od the reasons I use the thicker kydex. It "softens" the corners and impressions when molding the plastic.
 
Anyone post up anyghing they made?

I got a few fixed blade knives that i never carry because i dont like the sheath. I think I am going to round up the materials and give it a shot.

My issue is the sheaths that come with the knives are made for a belt. I never wear belts. I would like a solid pocket clip
 
Romogo said:
I said call him :laughing: He won't join up here, he's got too much **** going on as it is. You heading down this way anytime soon?
Click to expand...
Guess I never responded to this. :laughing:

I am not planning on heading there for a while. I also skipped the kydex project, or more specifically moved it to a further back burner.
 
irate4x4.com

Do any of yall work with Kydex(or similar)?

I'd like to make a couple Kydex knife sheaths and a few other random things. I have watched a few videos so i understand the basic process. I figured I should tap in to the vast knowledge of the folks here as well. Any tips and tricks i should know? Do you have a preferred vendor for materials...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com

Thread from a while back.
 
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Fishnbeer said:
Anyone post up anyghing they made?

I got a few fixed blade knives that i never carry because i dont like the sheath. I think I am going to round up the materials and give it a shot.

My issue is the sheaths that come with the knives are made for a belt. I never wear belts. I would like a solid pocket clip
Click to expand...
Just a quickie I made. Normally it would be a little nicer around the muzzle but I was in a hurry so I didnt take my time with the blocking. Really comfy. Nomally forget its there till I drop trou and feel the weight.
 
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