Anyone make an axle shaft gauge for Tundra 10.5"?

[Lil'John]

Title basically states it.

I need an axle shaft gauge for a Tundra 10.5" diff/housing like this one:

Toyota 8" Axle Shaft Gauge

Check out the deal on Toyota 8" Axle Shaft Gauge at RuffStuff Specialties

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

Ruff Stuff doesn't carry one. I contacted them direct to verify.

Any other options out there? I'm doing a Tundra 60 so figuring out shafts in on the plate. I've still got the stock axle shafts:

I'll end up doing more than one so paying $20 to $30 won't hurt me.

Yes, I know the stamped housing probably isn't the strongest option out there. But it does allow me to experiment with one rig axle before doing Ruffstuff on another.

 

[mobil1syn]

just make one you have everything you need (i should have done one before it left)

 

[Lil'John]

just make one you have everything you need (i should have done one before it left)

I was thinking about making one thus I was stocked about the shafts being available. But I'm missing a tool

I'll take a look at making something this weekend. mobil1syn, did you want me to send a copy of my precision guesswork tool if I make one?

 

[mobil1syn]

• use angle iron and hose clamps around the spines to align the shafts
• measure distance between the ends
• cut a piece of square tubing that distance
• build a bridge a crossed the face using the two studs on each side
• drop your square tubing in between the shafts
• use random material to mate bridge and square tubing

done and done

 

[Lil'John]

I was going for something "quicker" but good accurate 'guestimate'

Here is picture that I will describe:

• Use a framer L and hook end of shaft. Put "mark" on axle housing that is the end of the framer L shown in blue above. I'm going to tack weld a piece of flat bar there.
• Create a center "bridge". In my case, I'll drill two "alignment" bars shown in green. Then weld a bar between the two(red)
• Use framer L to transfer "mark" onto bridge. Like previous, I'm going to weld pieces of flat bar.

I'll take pictures of the above if I can find my small framer L My reason for the above approach is to take chance of bad measurement out. When I provide a measurement, I'll probably have an extra 1/2" of spline added over the stock shafts so I can potentially do a trim to fit ;)

The other part of this project is to figure out how to do an inner axle seal. I saw an interesting approach on the other board.

 

[mobil1syn]

youre going out to go in, seems like more work than needed. but should work

i would using a piece of tube as an "axle shaft" to shove into the housing, but it up against my fixture, mark tube and measure that. using the tools and measuring 'outside' the axle is how do you know where to end the shaft?

seal the ends of the tube. i will probably do something like the 40spline setup in the UB thread in gen4x4.

 

[Lil'John]

youre going out to go in, seems like more work than needed. but should work

i would using a piece of tube as an "axle shaft" to shove into the housing, but it up against my fixture, mark tube and measure that. using the tools and measuring 'outside' the axle is how do you know where to end the shaft?

seal the ends of the tube. i will probably do something like the 40spline setup in the UB thread in gen4x4.

While I'm going out to go in, I'm using a fixed measuring device so there should be no 'transfer' errors in theory ;)

For measuring a shaft, I'm going to do something equally hokey I'm going to be buying a complete D60 front. I'm going to see how the inner shaft mounts related to the inner C/tubing.

Here is a picture:

In the above, I'd actually straighten the knuckle so it is straight. I would then pull a tape measure from the inside edge of the inner knuckle(orange line) to the u-joint center line(red line)

Once I have that measurement, I would cut the inner C off and graft it to the Tundra housing(actually, not me but my axle guy)

FWIW, the inner C to the WMS is 12.5"(not my measurement, just a picture stolen from SD60 thread):