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Anemic Fart Can 22RE..

docj88

'Splain this to me again
Joined
Oct 13, 2020
Member Number
2934
Messages
64
Loc
Texas!!
88 Pickup, 22RE, standard shift, SASed.. I intended to leave it at the farm but it seems i have driven it more than my daily driver in the last week since I got it back on the road. The muffler fell off and i'm cheap so I went to the parts house and got a bunch of fittings and a $35 "turbo" muffler or something of that sort. it was cheap.. it has a 2.5" inlet and outlet so i had to get the fittings to step up to it. Got it all together and welded up and it isn't loud, but it does NOT sound good. Its got that bumble bee fart can sound, just quieter. Its louder than stock which I would be okay with if it didn't sound like a friggin mosquito.

The obvious solution is to turbo it... for what a good cam and header costs I could build a log style manifold and source a turbo from a salvage yard, probably a volvo. I would run a secondary AFR gauge to be sure that it didn't lean out and limit boost to whatever the factory ECU would handle. From what I understand that is roughly 5 pounds or so. My problem is that I know absolutely nothing about this motor. Truck shows 190k on the odometer. The motor does not smoke or use oil. I have put about 10k miles on the truck and had no issues with it other than the water pump going out. When the time comes to rebuild I plan to go with low compression forged pistons, head studs, port and polish the head, cam, Megasquirt, yada yada..

Adding a turbo now is lighting a fuse to a time bomb. Is it worth the gamble? I know it wont help power at idle but that's what low gears are for. I'm running 35's and in third it will run 70 but it sounds like its about to come through the floor. 4th gear will hold 65, and 5th won't break 60, and don't hook a trailer to it (farm truck...). Before the SAS and 35's it would run 70 in 5th on flat ground no problems with 31's.

A swap is not in the cards because I want to stay as light as I can and if I swappped it would be an LS and all the goodies. If I did that I would just build a buggy. I would do a swap if it didn't require an adapter and would bolt to the factory trans.

What say you guys?
 
Deffinooley BACON:lmao:


op
tell us how you fit 35" on a yota PLEASE
 
Last edited:
3rd gear@70 mph sounds fun. I would toss a turbo on it. What’s the worst that could happen?:grinpimp:
 
What axle gears are you running? A re-gear would be a better way to spend some $$$ than wasting time building a 22RE for boost.

Obviously a 2/3RZ + a turbo would be the right answer but it's not the one you wanna hear.
 
88 Pickup, 22RE, standard shift, SASed.. I intended to leave it at the farm but it seems i have driven it more than my daily driver in the last week since I got it back on the road. The muffler fell off and i'm cheap so I went to the parts house and got a bunch of fittings and a $35 "turbo" muffler or something of that sort. it was cheap.. it has a 2.5" inlet and outlet so i had to get the fittings to step up to it. Got it all together and welded up and it isn't loud, but it does NOT sound good. Its got that bumble bee fart can sound, just quieter. Its louder than stock which I would be okay with if it didn't sound like a friggin mosquito.

The obvious solution is to turbo it... for what a good cam and header costs I could build a log style manifold and source a turbo from a salvage yard, probably a volvo. I would run a secondary AFR gauge to be sure that it didn't lean out and limit boost to whatever the factory ECU would handle. From what I understand that is roughly 5 pounds or so. My problem is that I know absolutely nothing about this motor. Truck shows 190k on the odometer. The motor does not smoke or use oil. I have put about 10k miles on the truck and had no issues with it other than the water pump going out. When the time comes to rebuild I plan to go with low compression forged pistons, head studs, port and polish the head, cam, Megasquirt, yada yada..

Adding a turbo now is lighting a fuse to a time bomb. Is it worth the gamble? I know it wont help power at idle but that's what low gears are for. I'm running 35's and in third it will run 70 but it sounds like its about to come through the floor. 4th gear will hold 65, and 5th won't break 60, and don't hook a trailer to it (farm truck...). Before the SAS and 35's it would run 70 in 5th on flat ground no problems with 31's.

A swap is not in the cards because I want to stay as light as I can and if I swappped it would be an LS and all the goodies. If I did that I would just build a buggy. I would do a swap if it didn't require an adapter and would bolt to the factory trans.

What say you guys?


3RZ swap all day long.


A swap is not in the cards because I want to stay as light as I can

That's funny right there.... the 22RE is not all that light.


I would do a swap if it didn't require an adapter and would bolt to the factory trans.

Why does an adapter limit doing a swap?


The 22 series engines run forever and are a work horse and they can be built up to 200 mosquitos+, BUT, you spend a lot of money to not get much horsepower, especially if you're going to turbo it.

The 3RZ is an easy swap, has more power stock, has great factory reliability and if you do the swap your self, you could probably do it for less $$$ than a full aftermarket turbo set-up.
 
3RZ swap all day long.




That's funny right there.... the 22RE is not all that light.




Why does an adapter limit doing a swap?


The 22 series engines run forever and are a work horse and they can be built up to 200 mosquitos+, BUT, you spend a lot of money to not get much horsepower, especially if you're going to turbo it.

The 3RZ is an easy swap, has more power stock, has great factory reliability and if you do the swap your self, you could probably do it for less $$$ than a full aftermarket turbo set-up.

Correct. My roommate had over $4000 into a 22RE and it was still a turd. It was basically built from everything LCE sold.
 
Here is a vid of Bike Mike in his stock 3RZ powered 1st gen racing CJ's built turbo'd 22RE:



Big Mike said:
This is me racing my coworker CJ at the ditch route in the upper canyon of Sledge Hammer in Johnson Valley, California, at the 2008 Tin Benders Jamboree.

My white/blue truck is a 1981 with a 1995 T100 4cyl 3RZ-FE 2.7 liter normally aspirated engine. CJ's red 1986 has a 22R-TE 2.4 liter Turbo engine built by Marlin Czajkowski of Marlin Crawler, using a higher compression cylinder head (22R-E) and 8 psi boost.

This is a pretty steep climb. CJ has the smoother road and also had a downhill start, where as I offered to run on the rougher road with out a downhill start. I had a bunch of stuff in the back of my truck whereas CJ did not. CJ had a smoother lane plus he was on the inside of the corner! We are not certain of our vehicle weights. I believe my truck is around 3500 lbs.

To CJ's defense, he does have larger tires and 4.88 gearing vs. my 5.29 gearing, but this was an advantage for CJ because he was able to pull 2nd gear longer than me.. ..but come on, I'VE GOT NO BOOST AND I STILL BEAT HIM! WHOOO HOOOOO! Love the 3RZ!!

You can read about my 3RZ-FE conversion here: https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=4401
 
Having crawled both engines in duplicate setups....
3
r
z
ftw
sounds good gotz lo end balls and hits the cam at 3k:flipoff2:
 
Ebay ching chong bellhousing is $375. Motor can be found for $1200. Cheaper than building a 22R that makes 210 hp.

If I have to buy an adapter I'm going with an LS. All the balls....
 
now you've put aside all reason and gone full retard.

The 3RZ is damn near a bolt in affair.

The wrenching and welding I'm good with. If I have to mess with a pile of wiring and actually do the swap, I want more than 150 horsepower when it's all said and done. If your gonna be a bear, be a grizzly bear...

A diesel swap would be cool with an older mechanical engine, but they are few and far between and expensive when you do find one. I know the Mercedes diesel is a popular swap but there really isn't any way to turn it up.
 
The wrenching and welding I'm good with. If I have to mess with a pile of wiring and actually do the swap, I want more than 150 horsepower when it's all said and done. If your gonna be a bear, be a grizzly bear...

A diesel swap would be cool with an older mechanical engine, but they are few and far between and expensive when you do find one. I know the Mercedes diesel is a popular swap but there really isn't any way to turn it up.

The Mercedes engines are garbage. My friend Thomas had one in his 4Runner. He killed that motor in short order. It would be ok if you drove like an old lady.
 
I know the Mercedes diesel is a popular swap but there really isn't any way to turn it up.


DieselMechan from Norway builds upgraded pumps that work great! My buddy did one in his TJ and that thing got up and scooted.

Total cost shipping the pump to and from Norway and the rebuild was about $1700.00 a few years back. Well worth the expense.

He also had the engine internals balanced, really smoothed the engine out at all RPMs.

The OM606 is the way to go for any Mercedes diesel swap, can be built to 300+ HP fairly easy and 400+ is attainable. Downside, they are getting harder to find in the states.
 
DieselMechan from Norway builds upgraded pumps that work great! My buddy did one in his TJ and that thing got up and scooted.

Total cost shipping the pump to and from Norway and the rebuild was about $1700.00 a few years back. Well worth the expense.

He also had the engine internals balanced, really smoothed the engine out at all RPMs.

The OM606 is the way to go for any Mercedes diesel swap, can be built to 300+ HP fairly easy and 400+ is attainable. Downside, they are getting harder to find in the states.


Not to be rude, I ain't about to spend $1700 bucks on a fuel pump. I can get a 5.3 with ecu and wiring harness AND an nv4500 for $1500. The 5.3 is 325 horse in factory trim and can be found in every junkyard in America.

I'm really talking myself into an LS swap now...
 
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