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Aisin vs 68RFE

TrailTamer

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Joined
May 26, 2020
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1415
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Down By The River
I kind of trying to find a new truck to get into. My mandated requirements for a new-to-me Ram 3500 are almost nonexistence; 4
  • 2013 and newer
    • Radius arm suspension
    • True crossover steering
  • Cummins
  • Aisin transmission
    • Only offered in 3500/4500/5500
  • 4wd

Everything else are considered bonus

I searched high low left and right. It’s difficult to find trucks with the Aisin transmission. My options on trucks open up significantly if not for the Aisin trans.

Anyone on here have personal experience between 68RFE and the Aisin? How they compare and is the Aisin really worth the effort to find them over 68RFE?

I have no plan to turn it up beyond a basic tuner for the delete. Therefore the inability to tune the Aisin TCM is not an issue.
 
Following. It is tough to find SRW Aisin used for sure.

How new are you hoping/looking? How much towing? What size tire?

I only test drove 1 Aisin on a 2020. That one was definitely tuned and shifting on the bus/work side of things.

The 68s seem to be better, the further along they’ve gotten.
 
How new are you hoping/looking?
I don’t care on how ‘new’. It just need to be in decent shape and reasonably priced for the miles (not $50,000 with >200,000 miles on the dash :flipoff: )
How much towing?
At least once a month. Possibly weekly for a tow gig/side job.
What size tire?
I’ll run whatever come on the truck, and most likely 315s if I’m to put new tires on it.
 
From personal experience? What did you noticed on how it is a better trans than 68RFE?


I had a 68RFE in a 2017 3500 DRW. EVERY TIME I hooked a trailer to it, it threw trans codes. Always different ones too. This in a truck with 35k miles on it and bone stock. I also say the Aisin is better because I work on these trucks all the time, and the Aisin just work every day and don't complain. The 68 is not a horrible trans, just saying if I had the choice I would take the Aisin.
 
Ever consider the g56? Only issue is the factory clutch/ dual mass flywheel is total garbage.
 
Ever consider the g56? Only issue is the factory clutch/ dual mass flywheel is total garbage.
Every single of my local friends broke G56 at least once.

My current truck have the NV4500, a 4 speed (teeth stripped off 5th gear).

I have little faith in a manual trans. :frown:
 
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Pointless fact but why offer both transmissions? That tells me all I need to know.
 
Pointless fact but why offer both transmissions? That tells me all I need to know.

The 68RFE is built in house (cheaper) and will make it out of warranty. HO/Aisin is a multi-thousand dollar upgrade that isn't warranted for 90% of buyers.

A 68 was typically good for 200k
 
FWIW, 6 years ago I went from a '97 12V with NV4500 to a '15 2500 with the 68RFE. I was always die hard manual trans for diesel tow rigs, and never thought I'd have an auto/diesel tow rig. I like towing with the 68RFE. It shifts somewhat crappy when empty, but shifts good when loaded. The tow/haul, exhaust brake, etc. just works. I bought the truck with ~51k on it, and it's ~105k now. Daily driving, occasionally towing a 5th wheel or flatbed (8k). We went from a ~10k 5th wheel to ~14k last year, and I do think it would help if the axle gears were a bit lower (3.21s are the only option); I have 315's on it which aren't much taller than stock, but it doesn't help. I've had some dumb issues with the truck, buy knock on wood the tranny hasn't been one of them.

Pete
 
I've had 2 3500s with the Aisin, one dually with 4.10s and the other a SRW with 3.42s. I've also had a 2500 with the 68rfe with 3.42s. Whatever you get, get the 4.10s. The 3.42s suck with any kind of load behind it. They're awesome for empty highway driving though.

For a direct comparison I towed my old 5th wheel toy hauler down the 40 near Needles in the middle of summer. With the 4.10s I would hit a big grade and manually shift it to 4th and drive up at 60mph and my coolant and oil temps were lower at the crest than at the bottom of the hill. With the 3.42s on that sale hill it was 2nd or 3rd gear and I was constantly trying to keep the trans, oil, and water temps at a reasonable level and only able to pull 40-45mph. Day and night difference.
 
Whatever you get, get the 4.10s.
I used gear calculator to see what rpm 3.42 and 4.10 will be like at 70 mph with 315/70R17.

I can clearly see why 3.42 sucked badly.

I think I definitely will go with 4.10. :smokin:


3.42 on left, 4.10 on right

1665242704174.png


 
2018 Aisin here. Bought new, now at 68000 miles. Haven't had any hickups or issues.

Running empty, normal driving, get 17 mpg
Running empty, virtually all freeway, get 19.5 mpg
Towing, normal (10k) typically 14 mpg
Towing big truck camper and towing typically 11 mpg.

Most towing mileage is thru mountain states (Wash, Idaho, Montana, Utah, etc)

I bought new, specifically because I've read so many horror stories about the 68RFE blowing up just after warranty. At that time, all the dealers were asking blood money for used Cummins (35-40k for 90,000 mile 4 and 5 year old trucks) and there were several local dealers (plus Dave Smith in Idaho) that were selling/offering great deals on new. I paid 50k for a new, crew cab, diesel, aisin, 4x4, 3500 and got a 3k in rebates. So it was an easy decision to spend 47 for new, when 90k mile trucks were 40 with the 68rfe.

edit; stock axle ratio. If i recall correctly, you could only get optional ratios in the dualies. I'm single rear wheels.
edit 2; have not lacked for power ever, when carrying the camper and towing the trailer thru mountain passes, I'm still flowing at or above the posted speed limits. Engine never gets hot. Trans never gets hot.
 
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Pretty sure 4.10 is dually only

4th Gen was 3.42 for SRW. Not sure if dually had 2 options.

5th Gen (19+) is 3.73 for SRW. Dually is 3.73 stock or 4.10 optional.

Diesel only, gassers have similar and different. Trans doesn’t affect axle options to my knowledge.
 
I bought new, specifically because I've read so many horror stories about the 68RFE blowing up just after warranty. At that time, all the dealers were asking blood money for used Cummins (35-40k for 90,000 mile 4 and 5 year old trucks) and there were several local dealers (plus Dave Smith in Idaho) that were selling/offering great deals on new. I paid 50k for a new, crew cab, diesel, aisin, 4x4, 3500 and got a 3k in rebates. So it was an easy decision to spend 47 for new, when 90k mile trucks were 40 with the 68rfe.
More like $50,000 for 6 years old trucks :clown:

 
$63,000 for a stripped down truck with the HO Cummins w/ Aisin and 4x4 the only options selected. JFC

1665258959891.png


By the way, RPS1030 you're correct 4.10 is only available for dually.
 
$63,000 for a stripped down truck with the HO Cummins w/ Aisin and 4x4 the only options selected. JFC

1665258959891.png


By the way, RPS1030 you're correct 4.10 is only available for dually.
I got to $75 with a Tradesman CCLB HO and a couple packages real quick.
 
I got to $75 with a Tradesman CCLB HO and a couple packages real quick.
TreeClimber probably can sell his 2018 for that much today. :lmao::homer:

In fall of 2019, I was looking at a southern deleted 2015 Ram 3500 C&C Cummins Aisin 4x4 tradesman crew cab with a nice flatbed 180k miles on the ODO but in excellent condition for $28k. I was only to sign on the line to drive it away. Kicking myself today for not doing just that. I could’ve easily bought it to get me by as I do a restoration on my 12v Cummins and sell it off for a killing profit today & recoup the restoration cost.

Edit: I test drove few trucks at that time. That 2015 Ram 3500 (deleted & a small tuner to keep things happy), a 2012 Ram 3500 G56 manual (deleted and likely turned up via tuner) and a 2015 F350 (stock), all C&C diesel and 4x4. I was blown away on how they all felt slow compared to my 12v Cummins. :eek: Granted the lack of smoke is nice.
 
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so for the folks who have rebuilt the 68RFE, what are necessary options to add for occasional towing/DD duty? I've recently had some issues and and am deciding on what to spend. Truck is paid off so a rebuild is definitely worth it monetarily speaking.
 
no personal experience with 68RFE, but I can say find the Goerend equivalent transmission builder for 68RFE.

Goerend 47RE in my truck was just perfect. Put power straight to ground, shifted like factory stock with tons of torque, which in my personal experience is a difficult combo to achieve but they did it.

One thing for sure, get auto trans rebuilt now is way cheaper and guaranteeing less issues down the road than completely kill it before rebuilding.
 
One thing for sure, get auto trans rebuilt now is way cheaper and guaranteeing less issues down the road than completely kill it before rebuilding.
100% this, a close friend of mine does hotshot work plus a lot of towing with his personal rig and as soon as he acquires a truck the first thing he does is pull the trans and have it completely gone through by a good builder.
Last rebuild he said was like half of what it would have been with a failure
 
As68/69rc is $$$$ for parts and minimal support.
I wouldn't go out of my way for one. Not a fan of the one in my truck, often shifts like ass.

They say the 68RFE is better designed. Parts are much easier to find too.
 
so for the folks who have rebuilt the 68RFE, what are necessary options to add for occasional towing/DD duty? I've recently had some issues and and am deciding on what to spend. Truck is paid off so a rebuild is definitely worth it monetarily speaking.
Ats has 5 year 500k mile warranty on the stage 1 for $8300, no idea on actual specs of your rig (you didn't list any)

1000006928.jpg

Less warranty for less $
1000006929.jpg

 
Yea probably should have mentioned my current specs and situation.

2017 2500 Crew Cab 4x4 on 37's

Had the 68RFE rebuilt to stage 2 specs with a Billet BD converter, billet input shaft, Sonnax clutches, shimmed valve body, etc... with 2 year 24K warranty in Aug 2023

Monday morning had to put a pair of batteries in it (it was time). It took a shit on Tuesday morning on the way to work. Lost all power to the rear wheels on a busy high in Houston rush hour traffic. I had enough momentum to make some evasive moves to hit the exit for the access road to thankfully get off the highway safely and a bit white knuckled. Trans was making a god awful racket when I came to a stop and killed the engine. I had my code reader and it read a PO735 code which a broad based code reading Gear 5 incorrect ratio. Its back at the shop now under inspection.

I paid quite a bit to get the trans rebuilt and am considering a new unit depending on what I hear from the builder. another Trans is still cheaper than a new truck especially since my truck is paid off.
 
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