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AGS Ez-Fit brake line kits

Broncokyle88 said:
I 100% agree. They didn’t set the bar all that high, but it was all downhill after the bailout.
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as long as you can live with 3/4 bolts.

I was on the phone with my brother taking those out and he heard me exclaim "WTF GM!" very loudly when I got to the one that had an empty nut. i guess the guy putting on beds that day only grabbed 6 bolts and couldn't be bothered to go back to the bin.
 
Any advice for this retard on doing brake lines on a rusty 2010 tundra? I've only replace a section here and there, never actually had to replace a full set.

I will get the rear axle lines and toyoter uses a small line at each front caliper from the dealer cause I need to order some other stuff, but the lines running to each wheel are $300 total. With a union in the middle of each one.

Wondering if i should buy the copper line for the longer runs to remove the unions, or is it just easier to buy the lines already made?

Also looking for an inexpensive flaring tool. I had a cheapo one from autozone, but I don't remember it working very good the last time I had to use it. I was looking at this:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on...RoCg8gQAvD_BwE
 
I'm a big fan of the copper line and it's all I'll use unless it's an absolute shitbox that only needs to drive another year.

steel lines are just no bueno here.

no experience with that eastwood flaring tool, but it looks way nicer than any arbor style piece of shit I've ever tried.
 
87manche said:
I'm a big fan of the copper line and it's all I'll use unless it's an absolute shitbox that only needs to drive another year.

steel lines are just no bueno here.

no experience with that eastwood flaring tool, but it looks way nicer than any arbor style piece of shit I've ever tried.
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Also the copper is stupid easy to flare.
 
88mitsu said:
Also looking for an inexpensive flaring tool. I had a cheapo one from autozone, but I don't remember it working very good the last time I had to use it. I was looking at this:
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on...RoCg8gQAvD_BwE
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looks way overcomplicated
but probably works better than anything manual on the market today
a guy at work just went through every tool truck brand flaring set until he finally got the $500 mastercool hydraulic set
they're all chinese trash

I've got an imperial that's way old, and I need to take the pointed flaring head off the spindle in order to fit the double flare adapters (as it is a copper tubing single flaring tool)
Tried to find one for this kid, but I could not replace it, too bad as it just works great every time. Beautifully polished and chromed, all the threads are smooth, the tubing grabber parts grab the tubing without smashing it... They just can't make that kind of shit any more, not economically viable.
 
[486 said:
;n206162]

looks way overcomplicated
but probably works better than anything manual on the market today
a guy at work just went through every tool truck brand flaring set until he finally got the $500 mastercool hydraulic set
they're all chinese trash

I've got an imperial that's way old, and I need to take the pointed flaring head off the spindle in order to fit the double flare adapters (as it is a copper tubing single flaring tool)
Tried to find one for this kid, but I could not replace it, too bad as it just works great every time. Beautifully polished and chromed, all the threads are smooth, the tubing grabber parts grab the tubing without smashing it... They just can't make that kind of shit any more, not economically viable.
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A screw in die seems complicated?

insert tube, clamp, insert die, tighten with wrench.
I didn't read the instruction manual and figured that much out.
 
87manche said:
A screw in die seems complicated?

insert tube, clamp, insert die, tighten with wrench.
I didn't read the instruction manual and figured that much out.
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overcomplicated in that it only does one size
granted it is the one size that you'll use the absolute shit out of but still... Doesn't feel right in my brainbox.
 
I'll give you that it's a bummer it only does one size.

but the next time I have to do actual brake line flaring shit I will probably buy one.

I fucking hate flaring brake lines, and I know it's the poor craftsman that blames the tools, but every little screw arbor press style one I've ever tried was a giant pile of shit that just frustrated me to no end.
 
[486 said:
;n206309]

overcomplicated in that it only does one size
granted it is the one size that you'll use the absolute shit out of but still... Doesn't feel right in my brainbox.
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Multi tools almost always suck dick. I have the multi size one somewhere, but if this works way better and it's in the size that's used the most then it's worth it to me.

I think I will try the copper and see what happens. I don't like the way toyota ran the lines on this truck and I'm kinda afraid I'll get the wrong shit anyway since it's a regular cab.

Now I gotta find some copper line in FL. Probably gotta order that too. :laughing:
 
the problem is that nobody has made a good conventional flaring tool in 10 years or more

Using one like mine that is at least 50 years old you will know why there wasn't ever any further development for a solid century. They do their job well enough that nobody needed to make them differently. Couple pieces in a steel box, no hydraulic crimper with a blow molded case of a hundred dies. Simple, effective and easy.

Now every one out there is a bargain basement piece of shit, so they've gotta make things that look different so as to set themselves apart from the pile of shittily made ones.

kind of like tubing cutters, everyone buys shitty ones to the point that it is hard to find a decent one now, so now you run into them with gimmicky springs and shit on them
 
I’ve used a couple of The delco pre-bent kits Which Can be had for $70 ish on amazon.. yes they’re nylon coated steel, but the first set made it 19 yrs so If the Improved replacement at least come close to that lifespan, that’s not too bad In my book.
 
it's what you expect.

a big box of pre flared copper lines.
nice little sheet that tells you which part numbers go where on the truck. everything was in there. I marked all the tags so I don't have to keep looking at the table.

IMG_20201123_104544978_MP.jpg
 
a big ez fit sticker

why you'd need to advertise the composition of your brake lines I don't know, but someone wanted them.
 
they are ever slightly a bit long.
but better than too short. just make your radii larger and use the extra length.
this fucking thing took me like an hour. Also, fuck you GM for the brackets being absolutely not removable from the old lines. I had to use a hammer and punch on this one, and the passenger side was fucking spot welded, so I had to cut that one and then unbend it open to salvage it for the new line.
but it's all reasonably close to exact, and it's all in the factory brake line brackets.

IMG_20201125_144329613.jpg
 
way too much effort done there
at work we charged 125/hr and you might get a couple zip ties on your new hard lines :flipoff2:
 
[486 said:
;n210200]way too much effort done there
at work we charged 125/hr and you might get a couple zip ties on your new hard lines :flipoff2:
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which is why I don't pay "professionals" to work on my shit.
:flipoff2:

Yeah, i'm pretty try hard on this thing, but you know what they say. Do it right, do it once. I've certainly zip tied my fair share of new lines to old, but one day I may inherit this fucking thing.
 
drill some 1/2" or larger drain holes in those U-bolt plates
see them all the time with broken u-bolts, when you break the others off you can see they had salt water cupped in there for their whole lives, 1/4" or less of "bolt" left
 
after I fix these brake lines I'm taking it uptown sans bed and I'm going to hose all this shit off at the hot water car wash, and take care of some shit.

overall it's not bad.
What we'd consider "rust free" here.
I mean, it still has cab corners, and no other 2003 truck around here has those, or fenders, or bed sides.
 
[486 said:
;n206353]the problem is that nobody has made a good conventional flaring tool in 10 years or more

Using one like mine that is at least 50 years old you will know why there wasn't ever any further development for a solid century. They do their job well enough that nobody needed to make them differently. Couple pieces in a steel box, no hydraulic crimper with a blow molded case of a hundred dies. Simple, effective and easy.

Now every one out there is a bargain basement piece of shit, so they've gotta make things that look different so as to set themselves apart from the pile of shittily made ones.

kind of like tubing cutters, everyone buys shitty ones to the point that it is hard to find a decent one now, so now you run into them with gimmicky springs and shit on them
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I like mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...in_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20

Not cheap, but it has the eccentric cone so it rolls the flare nicely and the handle disengages at proper depth so you don't oversmoosh it.

Unfortunately I got it to build my buggy, so it's all -3AN stuff, so my nice flare tool is mostly useless for all the other real vehicles I own.
 
vetteboy79 said:
I like mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...in_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20

Not cheap, but it has the eccentric cone so it rolls the flare nicely and the handle disengages at proper depth so you don't oversmoosh it.

Unfortunately I got it to build my buggy, so it's all -3AN stuff, so my nice flare tool is mostly useless for all the other real vehicles I own.
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Will that tool do decently thick wall stainless (i.e. OEM fuel lines) without bitching?
 
DWT said:


When I did a frame notch on my autocross truck and documented it on a toyota site I posted this pic and everyone freaked out how clean my frame is. They started recommending coatings to paint over the raw metal on the notch. I told them I was leaving it raw and they about shit. :laughing:

Welcome to the desert where 50nuear old metal has light surface rust and our cars don't have added lightness. :lmao:
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Thats a shit deal I have to deal with living off of 12. Its a DOD highway so they salt and magnesium chloride the fuck out of it. Seeing how fast it eats shit I want to jeep my Chevy as a winter truck and not fix the oil leak on my wife's Yukon. Its keeping that bitch rust free:grinpimp:. That unfortunately would make my 4runner a summer only rig and that will suck but its still only surface rust underneath. Either way I have blown 2 brake lines because of deicer. This coming spring I am planning on attacking the brake and fuel hard lines.
 
Thefishguy77 said:
Thats a shit deal I have to deal with living off of 12. Its a DOD highway so they salt and magnesium chloride the fuck out of it. Seeing how fast it eats shit I want to jeep my Chevy as a winter truck and not fix the oil leak on my wife's Yukon. Its keeping that bitch rust free:grinpimp:. That unfortunately would make my 4runner a summer only rig and that will suck but its still only surface rust underneath. Either way I have blown 2 brake lines because of deicer. This coming spring I am planning on attacking the brake and fuel hard lines.
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Pro tip: 3/16" brake line works with 5mm metric tube nuts and 5/16" line and compression fittings work on 8mm once the factory coating is removed from the toyota line. Fuck trying to source metric stuff, when I moved my fuel tank and completely replumbed my brake system I figured out what worked in sae. Made life real easy.


Magnesium chloride love, love, LOVES the taste of wiring so triple check all of your connectors for corrosion while you're there.
 
DWT said:
Pro tip: 3/16" brake line works with 5mm metric tube nuts and 5/16" line and compression fittings work on 8mm once the factory coating is removed from the toyota line. Fuck trying to source metric stuff, when I moved my fuel tank and completely replumbed my brake system I figured out what worked in sae. Made life real easy.


Magnesium chloride love, love, LOVES the taste of wiring so triple check all of your connectors for corrosion while you're there.
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Thanks!
 
I've had good results using this Inline type.
IMG_20201127_105749.jpg
 
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