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AGS Ez-Fit brake line kits

87manche

87manche

kinder and gentler
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
688
Messages
2,452
Loc
lake erie
anyone used one?
I'm probably about to do lines on a GM truck. The general used shit ass steel ones and they all die here. I'm surprised it's taken this long, but it does only have 38K miles.
2001 silverado 1500 4.8 standard cab regular bed 2wd.
This kit is $100 on rockauto
https://ezfitlines.com/product/cnc-...let-gmc-sierra-silverado-1500-1-2-ton-pickup/
and seems like it would take the ass pain out with pre measured and flared lines that I just have to bend.

but it's all shit if they don't fit well.
so has anyone used?

IMG_20201105_130132314.jpg
 
Yes, did the same brand kit on my dad's 3/4 ton 2000 dodge. They bend easy, length is generous enough to do the routing you need to, and it is still looking and working fine over a year later in michigan's salty winters. For the time and frustration it saves trying to cut, bend, and flare steel line, I would use it again without hesitation.
 
YOOPER111 said:
Yes, did the same brand kit on my dad's 3/4 ton 2000 dodge. They bend easy, length is generous enough to do the routing you need to, and it is still looking and working fine over a year later in michigan's salty winters. For the time and frustration it saves trying to cut, bend, and flare steel line, I would use it again without hesitation.
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excellent. I figure I'm paying somebody $50 to cut and flare lines for me over what it would cost me to buy a roll of nickel line and do it myself.
worth it.

Broncokyle88 said:
https://classictube.com/product/che...regular-cab-long-bed-jc5-brake-code-20012002/

$400, but your time bending, flaring, and trying to find new fittings has to be worth something. Ships with the long sections bent in the center so it fits in the box, so one bend to work out and you can rock on. I have their kit on my 2500 and have nothing bad to say. I did use rubber hoses instead of their stainless braided so I can’t tell you about them. I’ve always had an aversion to stainless soft lines.
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the bending part isn't a big deal. I've used bulk nickel copper line before and it's easy. There's no sense in putting steel lines on anything other than a junkyard bound beater that's one more failure from being a harbor freight tool.
I may just pop the bed off and do the fuel line too depending on what it looks like in there. That's the next one to pop for sure.

Thanks GM.
 
87manche said:
excellent. I figure I'm paying somebody $50 to cut and flare lines for me over what it would cost me to buy a roll of nickel line and do it myself.
worth it.



the bending part isn't a big deal. I've used bulk nickel copper line before and it's easy. There's no sense in putting steel lines on anything other than a junkyard bound beater that's one more failure from being a harbor freight tool.
I may just pop the bed off and do the fuel line too depending on what it looks like in there. That's the next one to pop for sure.

Thanks GM.
Click to expand...

I did all the lines on my '01 4x4 2500 with a roll of NiCu and a pack of fittings in about 2 hours. Make sure and get a fitting kit for the truck so you don't have to waste time getting the old lines out of them. The kit you posted looks handy if they are all the correct length. I just strung the NiCu wherever was handy though and didn't always follow the stock locations because I didn't care enough so I'm not sure what's easier. NiCu flares so easy I don't know what what I'd go again, that kit is tempting.
Cut all the lines at the abs pump and try a socket on them, before using vice grips.
Don't forget to do the rear axle lines, I forgot to do one and had it blow out a few months later.
I also did the gas lines, you can get to the plastic lines easily from under the truck. I made lines with 3/8" NiCu and flared them to the GM fuel fitting with a masterkool kit and then spliced under the hood with compression fittings.
 
stainless fittings.
now that should be an upgrade option on these ez fit kits.
ez fit PRO
 
well I went and looked at it and it's the one over the tank that always rots out.

ordered the whole kit.
gonna pull the bed this weekend.
 
I can't imagine living in a salt state and being a car guy. It's like being addicted to having pet gold fish. About the time you really get attached they die a horrible rusty death and have to be flushed to start the cycle all over again.
 
ten years if you take care of your shit.

that's the clock once it sees it's first winter.
you can slow it down, but you never win.

after that it's rotten rockers and fenders.
 
87manche said:
well I went and looked at it and it's the one over the tank that always rots out.

ordered the whole kit.
gonna pull the bed this weekend.
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I replaced that line twice with steel before I heard about NiCu, just leave the old one and run the new one in a convenient place. By the time the lines start rusting through, the bed bolt nuts are likely going to be rusty and you may break a couple or the nuts will spin in the bed x-member. You can weld new nuts into the bed kinda but there isn't a great way to do it. I wouldn't spend the time pulling the bed because it really doesn't save you much work for doing brake and fuel lines. Most of the poopy work is under the cab. The plastic lines from the tank are long enough that you don't need to get to the top of the tank anyway.
 
87manche said:
ten years if you take care of your shit.

that's the clock once it sees it's first winter.
you can slow it down, but you never win.

after that it's rotten rockers and fenders.
Click to expand...

4-5 years up here. I see lots of new college students come to town with clean used trucks that their parents likely bought them. By the time they graduate they are piles of rust that are lucky to make it home.

In 2017 I saw a K2x body style chevy with rust holes in the rear fenders. At most it could have seen 4 winters.
 
larboc said:
I replaced that line twice with steel before I heard about NiCu, just leave the old one and run the new one in a convenient place. By the time the lines start rusting through, the bed bolt nuts are likely going to be rusty and you may break a couple or the nuts will spin in the bed x-member. You can weld new nuts into the bed kinda but there isn't a great way to do it. I wouldn't spend the time pulling the bed because it really doesn't save you much work for doing brake and fuel lines. Most of the poopy work is under the cab. The plastic lines from the tank are long enough that you don't need to get to the top of the tank anyway.
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the rest of the truck is actually quite clean. it sits in a garage 99% of the time. It's a 38K mile time capsule.
There's still paint on the frame rails and cab mounts.
I'm not worried about the bed hardware.

as I'm likely going to end up with this thing, I'll just do it proper. It's already had new calipers and all the brake shit at the hub.
 
I know you already ordered the pre bent lines but I have used both and the copper / steel lines are so much easier. I leave the factory lines, route them where ever is easiest.

Flairing them is super easy. I cut the lines off the old fittings then hit them with a socket to remove them.

Super easy and way better then pulling the bed.

YMMV
 
crispins said:
I know you already ordered the pre bent lines but I have used both and the copper / steel lines are so much easier. I leave the factory lines, route them where ever is easiest.

Flairing them is super easy. I cut the lines off the old fittings then hit them with a socket to remove them.

Super easy and way better then pulling the bed.

YMMV
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the lines aren't pre bent, they're precut and flared to the proper length.

I've done plenty of zip tie a new brake line to the old one, but this isn't where I'm gonna do that shit. It's a nice truck not a beater.
As I'm very likely to be dealing with the same truck for the next decade I'll just do it properly so I don't have to deal with bullshit ever again.
 
DWT said:
I can't imagine living in a salt state and being a car guy. It's like being addicted to having pet gold fish. About the time you really get attached they die a horrible rusty death and have to be flushed to start the cycle all over again.
Click to expand...

I can't imagine why car guys in salt states aren't throwing Molotovs like BLM!

I know there's got to be lots of lobby money in salt, but why aren't there classic car clubs lobbying to get rid of it?
 
bought the kit for my 2002 EXT (avalanche). Did the rear line and it fit as expected. then another line blew, decided I didn't want to spend my weekend running lines, and paid the shop a bunch of $$. They used the kit, it seemed to work.

I would definitely buy it again for the price, even though I only personally did the 1 line. The nickel copper stuf was SO much nicer to work with than steel
 
subybaja said:
I can't imagine why car guys in salt states aren't throwing Molotovs like BLM!

I know there's got to be lots of lobby money in salt, but why aren't there classic car clubs lobbying to get rid of it?
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because classic car guys are a tiny percentage of the population and all of the karens want salt put on the roads as soon as there's even a possibility of ice.

ODOTs goal is "chemically wet" roads for 5 months out of the year anytime there's precipitation.

because of stupid ass government budgeting if they don't use their allotment of salt they won't get as much the next season, so they never use less salt, ever.
 
honestly I think you'd have better luck approaching it from the ecological harm avenue.

shit's terrible for the environment.
 
You're probably right. That's the angle on that FB group.

Man, how often do you see car guys and eco-freaks on the same side?
 
it's windy and shitty outside.
but it's ready to remove.
so probably monday.
bolts were no big deal.
dak dak dak

IMG_20201121_162743990_HDR.jpg
 
funny thing about that.

the two forward most ones weren't there.
like they were never there.
Rusted threads in the nuts.

general apparently shorted us a few.

and yes, I'm positive that the bed has never been removed on it. I remember when it came home from the dealer.
 
DWT said:
I can't imagine living in a salt state and being a car guy. It's like being addicted to having pet gold fish. About the time you really get attached they die a horrible rusty death and have to be flushed to start the cycle all over again.
Click to expand...

I just told my dad today that if we didn’t live in the rust belt we’s probably never have to buy a new car or truck ever again.
 
87manche said:
because classic car guys are a tiny percentage of the population and all of the karens want salt put on the roads as soon as there's even a possibility of ice.

ODOTs goal is "chemically wet" roads for 5 months out of the year anytime there's precipitation.

because of stupid ass government budgeting if they don't use their allotment of salt they won't get as much the next season, so they never use less salt, ever.
Click to expand...

Ohio is absolutely terrible with salt.

I went over there to buy a tool box from a guy. They commented on how nice my truck was and asked what year. When I said 09’ they got all fired up on Ohio salt. They had a 12’ sitting in the driveway with Swiss cheesed fenders and holes in the bed. Said there was no point trying to keep anything that drives on their roads in the winter.

I just wonder how Ohio seemingly has less potholes than Pennsylvania.
 
20140810_161208_zpscc1af2df.jpg
FleshEater said:
I just told my dad today that if we didn’t live in the rust belt we’s probably never have to buy a new car or truck ever again.
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When I did a frame notch on my autocross truck and documented it on a toyota site I posted this pic and everyone freaked out how clean my frame is. They started recommending coatings to paint over the raw metal on the notch. I told them I was leaving it raw and they about shit. :laughing:

Welcome to the desert where 50nuear old metal has light surface rust and our cars don't have added lightness. :lmao:
 
Broncokyle88 said:
Well then, carry on. I just didn’t want to see you blow your back out trying to tip up a bed that’s still bolted down.

But what else did you expect from union labor? You’re lucky that’s all they left off
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peak GM quality was the early 2000s.......
 
Just did my Dad's 98 Wrangler with a complete stainless kit from rock auto. Some small adjustments were needed but the bends were darn close. Much better than buying pieces and bending it yourself.

You can buy the prebent kit for your truck for $64 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...371495&jsn=502
 
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I ordered the Dorman kit. I've done 4 of the 99-07 GMs now. Great stainless prebent kit for less than $150 locally. Just worked them through the inner fender driver well and fished the rear line back. Roughly 4 hours to do them all. Add another $100 for Russell stainless brake hose set and the whole system is done.
 
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