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Advice?

FJRik said:
...if my goal is a rig I can wheel a few times a year in trails such as this in Big Bear, that can also be towed behind an RV
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mobil1syn said:
find a stock LJ, have a mid arm kit w/ tuned 2.0 fox c/os put on it and wheel your face off.
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i have a few customers that build LJs and 90% of their customers are just like you. they ride well, do 75 on the freeway, hit the rubicon, wheel locally here in socal, spend time behind an rv.

stop being an askhole and go find a clean LJ.
 
Buy 74 weld portals and rack for your bronco and it will outwheel/drive any of those other things you posted

20240112_171002.jpg
 
FJRik said:
Perhaps the question I should be asking with the extensive knowledge of the members on this forum is this...if my goal is a rig I can wheel a few times a year in trails such as this in Big Bear, that can also be towed behind an RV (with a limit of 4000 pounds so trying to go light(er), crawling and no high speed desert stuff, and I'm fine with 33s or 35s, which way to go? I don't wheel to the degree many others in this forum do, and this far I have not bent anything major on any of my former Jeeps/FJs/full size Broncos/Wagoneers/Cherokees/even the new Bronco with the weak sauce steering rack and tie rods. So...with that in mind, and approx up to 25k to let go, what would your weapon of choice be? At the top of my budget is a 2006 Rubicon with 25k miles in it and a 60 rear/44 front/teraflex long arms/Atlas t-case/GM 4L60E tranny for 26k.
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a stock jeep rubicon fulfills this role for 80% of people

add some bolt ons and youre cruising thru the rubicon trail
 
FJRik said:
Checking it out this weekend...he said it does 75 on the freeway with one finger, which after having some very questionable rigs over the decades seems appealing. The rig I just sold tracked like an arrow at 75, but, similarly to what you shared, the prior owner for some reason made a questionable move and went with stock FJ40 housings and spent a crap ton of money on them with internals instead of going one tons.
Screenshot_20231213_130717_Gallery.jpg
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Don't believe anything until you drive it for yourself.
 
2big bronco said:
Buy 74 weld portals and rack for your bronco and it will outwheel/drive any of those other things you posted

20240112_171002.jpg
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I thought of that...but the 25k that would have cost sobered me up a bit. Additionally, because of the electrical gremlins I had to sort out and biting my nails because my build date was on the grenaded engines suspect list I sold it. I have to admit it did drive extraordinarily well on the road and was pretty capable off-road up until I encountered the electrical gremlins! If anyone with a 2.7 is interested I have a set of Mishimoto catch cans for sale cheap as well as a slick conversion adapter from cartridge filter to spin on. Also, if someone has a two-door, I have a j tops in slate gray that has been installed for about an hour and that's it... also for sale cheap.
20230507_141944.jpg


lso cheap
 
mobil1syn said:
i have a few customers that build LJs and 90% of their customers are just like you. they ride well, do 75 on the freeway, hit the rubicon, wheel locally here in socal, spend time behind an rv.

stop being an askhole and go find a clean LJ.
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Apologies for being an askhole...just trying to get some direction. I like to learn and having the collective expertise of folks who have c!early been there done that is very helpful (as in it could potentially save me a lot of headaches and impulsivity). There are many clean LJs around, like the one I sold, but as I shared even that one with just over 30k miles (and no hard wheeling) was already afflicted with the OPDA issue (if I hadn't have pulled it to check, the cam gear would have been next...the OPDA gear was already notched). In addition, the track bar mount was twisted (I was surprised at how easily bent back it was using only a crescent wrench...really thin brackets...hence why it probably bent in the first place), and after my neighbor bought it he broke off another bracket from the front diff also doing mild wheeling... hence my question regarding upgrading to the Pro Rock/rock jock combination. I'm simply trying to wade through the range of advice I'm getting from just get another clean LJ (like the one I just sold) all the way to I need at least a 60 in the rear to survive even the mild wheeling I intend to be doing. I'd certainly love a TJ for the extra room and stability from the longer wheelbase, but finding a clean LJ in Southern California (for a reasonable price) is a tall order. Because I'm trying to stay under 25,000, a TJ just seemed more appealing because I could end up with many more upgrades and the entire vehicle for a fraction of the cost of an LJ. It seems that there are 50 TJ's for every LJ out there, and in addition those TJ's often have upgraded axles and suspension that make them even more of a bargain than fixating on the LJ exclusively. I'm going to occadionally be towing whatever I get, and because I don't have a diesel pusher even the few hundred pounds I'd save by getting a TJ versus an LJ would be helpful (I have a Sprinter...not the most robust tow vehicle). I appreciate all the replies.
 
FJRik said:
Apologies for being an askhole...just trying to get some direction. I like to learn and having the collective expertise of folks who have c!early been there done that is very helpful (as in it could potentially save me a lot of headaches and impulsivity). There are many clean LJs around, like the one I sold, but as I shared even that one with just over 30k miles (and no hard wheeling) was already afflicted with the OPDA issue (if I hadn't have pulled it to check, the cam gear would have been next...the OPDA gear was already notched). In addition, the track bar mount was twisted (I was surprised at how easily bent back it was using only a crescent wrench...really thin brackets...hence why it probably bent in the first place), and after my neighbor bought it he broke off another bracket from the front diff also doing mild wheeling... hence my question regarding upgrading to the Pro Rock/rock jock combination. I'm simply trying to wade through the range of advice I'm getting from just get another clean LJ (like the one I just sold) all the way to I need at least a 60 in the rear to survive even the mild wheeling I intend to be doing. I'd certainly love a TJ for the extra room and stability from the longer wheelbase, but finding a clean LJ in Southern California (for a reasonable price) is a tall order. Because I'm trying to stay under 25,000, a TJ just seemed more appealing because I could end up with many more upgrades and the entire vehicle for a fraction of the cost of an LJ. It seems that there are 50 TJ's for every LJ out there, and in addition those TJ's often have upgraded axles and suspension that make them even more of a bargain than fixating on the LJ exclusively. I'm going to occadionally be towing whatever I get, and because I don't have a diesel pusher even the few hundred pounds I'd save by getting a TJ versus an LJ would be helpful (I have a Sprinter...not the most robust tow vehicle). I appreciate all the replies.
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Stretching a Tj would net something very similar to an Lj....and you're right...their limited availability/exclusivity make them pricey...but when it comes down to it, they are just a long wheel base Tj with a bit more interior space.

It sounds like you're looking to buy something built, rather than buy something stockish and then build it up. I'd think if you were willing to broaden your search nationwide, you'd likely come up with something with a bigger engine (which seems to be something you're into) and tons that, if built right....should be streetable. $25K puts you in likely the early 2000's vehicles with 1 ton drivetrain and something with a modded engine or a V8 swap.

Unless you actually bought a buggy....whatever you get, trail ready with armor is probably going to be 5-6K lbs. A Cherokee might fit the bill and be lighter....something to consider I guess. Another option might be a gas powered Superduty...'05 or newer....that's likely more of a build it type rig though as you're unlikely to find one pressed into trail duty for sale, but it already has the drivetrain (minus a doubler or tcase swap). Hell, I bet you could fit 42s on a SD by simply cutting the front fenders...since they have like 5-6" of unnecessary sheetmetal up front behind the front tire and before the door.
 
dont forget that i drive a 90hp 22re on 37's, thats probably putting 65hp to the ground and i cruise 70mph on the flats and 55mph up the hills

you'll be fine :laughing:
 
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