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Advice?

FJRik

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2024
Member Number
7489
Messages
16
Hello fellow forum members I was hoping to get some advice...I just sold my 71 FJ40, which was admittedly a fun toy but it was a little bit over the top for my wife and admittedly I didn't actually need the 500 horsepower and 500 ft lb of torque with the type of wheeling that I normally do (or the type of street driving that I typically encounter). I also had a lot of money invested in it, and as I age my wheeling rig is going to be more of a occasional toy than something I have to rely on every single day as a commuter. I'm wanting to buy something that I can wheel when I want to and also tow behind the RV (and also street it when needed without white knuckling). I've had a bunch of Jeeps in the past, and FJ's, and I almost pulled the trigger on a pristine 1987 FJ which has over 200,000 mi on it...but my thought is it probably won't get out of its own way without some extensive engine work as well as removing all the emissions crap (which here in California you can't do if you expect it to get a sticker)...so I might be better off going another direction. The current owner of the FJ wants 25k, which is doable, but again from what I've read in this forum it would seem that it wouldn't be a great 70 mile an hour freeway driver (and I'd have a lot of effort even merging with traffic or climbing a hill). I know they retain their resale value, but I'm over buying anything just in hopes of one day being able to resell it (without a painful loss of revenue). The FJ is completely straight and has zero rust anywhere, with all its original body panels, so it is very tempting. On the other hand, I could get a 1997 Jeep TJ that has had extensive work done to it including the engine stroked to 4.7, new front and rear axles with proper gears, 37s, and proper suspension and steering work. No rust, and it comes with soft top, hardtop, full doors and half doors. It will easily do 75 mph on the freeway at about 2,600 RPM (with 5.13 gears). Although the rig itself has over 200,000 mi on it, with the brand new suspension, rebuilt transmission, rebuilt transfer case (with six sprags and a wider chain kit) as well as the motor with less than 8,000 mi on it, I could get it for less than the cost of the FJ. I also would be able to tow the Jeep behind my RV, which I wouldn't be able to do with the FJ (because my Sprinter has a max capacity of about 4,000 lb). Alternatively, I can get a 2003 Jeep Rubicon TJ for about 18k with only 53,000 mi on it. It is stock except for 35s, but even with 35s I wouldn't feel inspired off-roading with the stock 4.10 gears and driveline. I'd be right back into the cost rabbit-hole for upgrading the lockers and a set of gears...and then I'd want to do the suspension correctly. The '97 already has three link suspension in the rear and a slick setup up front, with proper driveline angles (the front diffs were ordered with the proper amount of caster, and rears with proper pitch). Thoughts? Advice? The short goal is a capable right for both street and trail for around 20k...I don't want a trailer queen or a mall crawler.
 
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you may want to post this in General 4x4 section and not the classifieds.
 
Rubicon/Big Bear/So-Cal rock stuff. Nothing high speed. The Jeep axles alone were 11k...there is probably about 45k in it and the geometry is all correct (6-8 degrees of caster with proper driveline angles). Also the suspension components are all high-end and not the cheap stuff...and the L6 is now producing 300 usable HP versus the stocker 190 (and about 345 pound feet of torque). 1997 also had a single catalytic converter instead of the later model crappy design with several different cats all coming off the exhaust manifold that would often crack...and the earlier Jeeps had the five-speed which was much more easy to shift and robust than the later six speed one.
 
Sorry! It was talk to text...cleaning up now.
 
Sounds like the 87 FJ (I'm assuming you mean FJ62) is stock. Stock isn't going to easily do the Rubicon.

The '97 TJ with the built axles (assuming 1 tons?) sounds like the winner in terms of aftermarket axles (if one ton) though 70mph on the freeway with one that isn't stretched is likely not going to drive as well as it could if it were but anywhere near $25K seems steep. Tcase was rebuilt ....does it have 4:1?

The '03 Rubicon at $18K sounds kind of reasonable....D44s, lockers f/r, 4:1 and 35s should be pretty capable and a good compromise for street driving/trail use. What's blue book on it?
 
The 97 has Currie D44 rock jock rear, prorock HP front, OX lockers, 35 spline axles. T-case is NP 231, not 241, but 6 pinion upgrade and 1.25 chain upgrade. Adams driveshafts, SYE, black magic brakes, 4.5 metal cloak springs, long arm suspension, adjustable track arms, sway bar disconnect. Swing out spare, winch, etc. Engine is forged pistons, roller rockers, port matches intake, larger injectors, aluminum radiator, flow master, new cat, 24 pound injectors, LS valves. Asking price 17k.

The 03 is stock except for unknown brand lift, 35s, different fender flares. What I worry about is that whoever set up the unknown suspension absolutely did not do a cut and rotate on the front diff or relocate the coil buckets on the rear to get the proper driveline angle for the rear diff. The 2003 also had the more complicated catalytic converter setup, prone to cracks, and the six-speed manual is less desirable than the five-speed in the earlier TJ's. No hardtop.

The 87 FJ is absolutely completely stock.
 
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Dana 44’s are not built enough axle for a TJ. They are borderline with 35s and insufficient with anything bigger. I have perfumed that pig in my life.

I almost put a JK 44 in the rear of my LJ and was advised by several axle companies that that’s not enough for 37 if you like to party. I drive fairly conservatively and I went with a 60 in the back because the ring is the weak point IMHO.

I have not yet had a problem with my current high pinion 44 front and Currie high pinion 60 rear, but now that I’ve said that they will probably both blow up on Saturday leaving me stranded in JV.
 
Do you think the currie set up as described in the 97 TJ is stronger than the stock d44s in the 2003? I was surprised that the independent front suspension stock steering rack in my Bronco didn't self-destruct but it held up.
 
A currie housing is much stronger as are the link brackets.

You’re gonna have more problems with the ring and pinion which don’t change when you change the housing.

A JK 44 Ring and pinion is much better.
 
Beat95yj said:
A currie housing is much stronger as are the link brackets.

You’re gonna have more problems with the ring and pinion which don’t change when you change the housing.

A JK 44 Ring and pinion is much better.
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So would I be ok with these? This is what is in it:

Screenshot_20240408_205319_Textra.jpg
 
mobil1syn said:
find a stock LJ, have a mid arm kit w/ tuned 2.0 fox c/os put on it and wheel your face off.
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I sold my 2006 LJ with only 34,000 on it to my neighbor last year...with the stock D44 up front, even what I consider milder wheeling pretzeled the track bar mount (on 33s). That was, however, on short arms.
 
FJRik said:
I sold my 2006 LJ with only 34,000 on it to my neighbor last year...with the stock D44 up front, even what I consider milder wheeling pretzeled the track bar mount (on 33s). That was, however, on short arms.
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Stock TJ axles are crap. The housings, the lockers, the brakes, etc. aftermarket axles would have made it better than the above options.
 
Beat95yj said:
Stock TJ axles are crap. The housings, the lockers, the brakes, etc. aftermarket axles would have made it better than the above options.
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I am confused...forgive me...the current owner of the 1997 also shared that the stock TJ axles are crap, which is why he went with the Currie housings (1/2 tubes) with OX lockers, JK gears, 35 spline axles, black magic brakes, etc. (shared in the attachment). Are those not good either? No better than stock TJ? The owner ensured proper driveline and with a cut and rotate maintained full caster adjustment (which a lot of builds seem to be lacking...folks just lift them without proper angles and wonder why they handle like crap).
 
FJRik said:
I am confused...forgive me...the current owner of the 1997 also shared that the stock TJ axles are crap, which is why he went with the Currie housings (1/2 tubes) with OX lockers, JK gears, 35 spline axles, black magic brakes, etc. (shared in the attachment). Are those not good either? No better than stock TJ? The owner ensured proper driveline and with a cut and rotate maintained full caster adjustment (which a lot of builds seem to be lacking...folks just lift them without proper angles and wonder why they handle like crap).
Click to expand...
And he didn't do tons, which for what he likely spent, means he's a moron.

Have you test driven any of these? Just b/c a cut and turn was done doesn't mean it drives well...nor does not having it done guarantee the Rubicon doesn't drive well. And...so much is driver preference anyway.
 
Plane tickets to the east coast. $500.
Linked jeep on tons $20k.
Gas to drive back to the west coast. $2000

I just saved you $2500. I take paypal. :flipoff2:
 
The TJ or TJ rubicon sound like they will work good for you. The pro rock 44 should hold up, if it doesnt yooiu can swap in a bigger axle later.
 
FJRik said:
I am confused...forgive me...the current owner of the 1997 also shared that the stock TJ axles are crap, which is why he went with the Currie housings (1/2 tubes) with OX lockers, JK gears, 35 spline axles, black magic brakes, etc. (shared in the attachment). Are those not good either? No better than stock TJ? The owner ensured proper driveline and with a cut and rotate maintained full caster adjustment (which a lot of builds seem to be lacking...folks just lift them without proper angles and wonder why they handle like crap).
Click to expand...
The aftermarket housings you have are better than stock. They are still narrow, and the ring opinions are marginally stronger than stock. In my opinion, they are not up to 37’s.
 
Sean said:
And he didn't do tons, which for what he likely spent, means he's a moron.

Have you test driven any of these? Just b/c a cut and turn was done doesn't mean it drives well...nor does not having it done guarantee the Rubicon doesn't drive well. And...so much is driver preference anyway.
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Checking it out this weekend...he said it does 75 on the freeway with one finger, which after having some very questionable rigs over the decades seems appealing. The rig I just sold tracked like an arrow at 75, but, similarly to what you shared, the prior owner for some reason made a questionable move and went with stock FJ40 housings and spent a crap ton of money on them with internals instead of going one tons.
Screenshot_20231213_130717_Gallery.jpg
 
Sean said:
And he didn't do tons, which for what he likely spent, means he's a moron.

Have you test driven any of these? Just b/c a cut and turn was done doesn't mean it drives well...nor does not having it done guarantee the Rubicon doesn't drive well. And...so much is driver preference anyway.
Click to expand...
Perhaps the question I should be asking with the extensive knowledge of the members on this forum is this...if my goal is a rig I can wheel a few times a year in trails such as this in Big Bear, that can also be towed behind an RV (with a limit of 4000 pounds so trying to go light(er), crawling and no high speed desert stuff, and I'm fine with 33s or 35s, which way to go? I don't wheel to the degree many others in this forum do, and this far I have not bent anything major on any of my former Jeeps/FJs/full size Broncos/Wagoneers/Cherokees/even the new Bronco with the weak sauce steering rack and tie rods. So...with that in mind, and approx up to 25k to let go, what would your weapon of choice be? At the top of my budget is a 2006 Rubicon with 25k miles in it and a 60 rear/44 front/teraflex long arms/Atlas t-case/GM 4L60E tranny for 26k.
 
Beat95yj said:
Dana 44’s are not built enough axle for a TJ. They are borderline with 35s and insufficient with anything bigger. I have perfumed that pig in my life.

I almost put a JK 44 in the rear of my LJ and was advised by several axle companies that that’s not enough for 37 if you like to party. I drive fairly conservatively and I went with a 60 in the back because the ring is the weak point IMHO.

I have not yet had a problem with my current high pinion 44 front and Currie high pinion 60 rear, but now that I’ve said that they will probably both blow up on Saturday leaving me stranded in JV.
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I'd imagine all depends how a person handles their equipment and how they plan to use it. Don't imagine this guy is trying to compete in rock buggy racing doing 45mph though boulder fields 🤣
Kinda the same where a guy can run a clapped out excavator for years without fuss where another guy can turn a new one into clapped out in just a few months.


I ran a HP D30 on a Grand Cherokee for 10+ years on Q78 TSLs (a skinny 36). 4.88s and ARB.
4 years of that was rock crawerling in Moab and Idaho. Even a trip in the sand dunes out at St Anthony.
Only trouble I ever had was the U joint caps popping out, which i just welded in. Ran Spicer 297s
 
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