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Adjustable Height Work Table

Muckin_Slusher

Muckin_Slusher

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May 19, 2020
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53
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I'll sometimes work on a project on a small utility trailer (4x8) because it elevates off the floor, and keeps the shitshow mobile, so I can roll it out of the way while waiting for parts or to work on something else. But them my trailer is occupied. I also use my fork-pocket platform for the same reason, but again, while it's in use I lose access to it for hoisting stuff to the mezzanines.

Solution? Build another fork pocket platform obviously.

I would have liked to have this sled a bit higher, but was concerned with raising the jack stands in case the weight wasn't enough to keep them locked in place. Would be nice to have a more sturdy leg system, like trailer tongue jacks...

Platform is 4x7 and would fit any snowmobile or atv.

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This is how that platform is normally used. It's nice and easy to load, since it's basically ground level, or can be brought to the level of a truck/trailer.

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Bought 4 of these.

Planning to make the new platform out of 2x2x1/8 tubing with 3/4 plywood on top.
Weld the jack pipe mounts at the four corners.

If I find it doesn't go high enough, was thinking of adding some receiver tubing and 2x2 tubing to make a sort of coarse height adjustment and using the trailer jacks for the fine adjustment, but that does sound like a bit of a contraption and would need push bolts to tighten everything up.

I guess the square jacks with the drop leg should have been what I bought, would give way more height adjustment. I guess I'll look into that.

I know there's lift tables I can buy, but I'm going this route because it will give me a second forklift platform and it will also be useful as a table for everything else not vehicle related.


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Muckin_Slusher said:
If I find it doesn't go high enough, was thinking of adding some receiver tubing and 2x2 tubing to make a sort of coarse height adjustment and using the trailer jacks for the fine adjustment, but that does sound like a bit of a contraption and would need push bolts to tighten everything up.

I guess the square jacks with the drop leg should have been what I bought, would give way more height adjustment. I guess I'll look into that.
Click to expand...

You can get taller jacks. I'd get sidewinders that you can throw a drill or impact on to run up/down.
 
Not that I've ever done it with mine, but mid-rise scissor lift in the floor is quite the handy adjustable height platform with a sheet of whatever thrown on top of the two lift platforms.

;)
 
I have the Harbor Freight 500# lift table and use it as an adjustable work platform. Granted, the footprint is a lot smaller than what you're going for.

I swear that one of the Harbor Freight lift tables used to offered a double scissors version for greater lift height. If they did, I expect it got discontinued due to liability - more pinch points and chances of tipping it over with things lifted higher. I've been meaning to fabricate another scissors set for mine to get some more lift out of it.

I do see that Vevor offers a double scissors version.

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www.vevor.com

VEVOR Hydraulic Lift Table Cart, 770lbs Capacity Hydraulic Scissor Cart, 51.2" Lifting Height Scissor Lift Table, Double Scissor Lift Cart w/ Foot Pump, 35.8''x20'' Table Size, for Freight Lifting | VEVOR US

Discover VEVOR Hydraulic Lift Table Cart, 770lbs Capacity Hydraulic Scissor Cart, 51.2" Lifting Height Scissor Lift Table, Double Scissor Lift Cart w/ Foot Pump, 35.8''x20'' Table Size, for Freight Lifting, 770 lbs Weighing Capacity and Adjustable Height at lowest price, 2days delivery, 30days...
www.vevor.com www.vevor.com
 
here's your out of the box, dumb idea of the day

mount wheel side of splitter to table underside. cut off stationary splitter wedge. weld piece of box tubing the length of the splitter bed to moving wedge. actuate splitter(s) simultaneously to raise the legs

it'd probably be floppy and stupid. but i already said its a dumb idea:laughing:

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budget76 said:
here's your out of the box, dumb idea of the day

mount wheel side of splitter to table underside. cut off stationary splitter wedge. weld piece of box tubing the length of the splitter bed to moving wedge. actuate splitter(s) simultaneously to raise the legs

it'd probably be floppy and stupid. but i already said its a dumb idea:laughing:

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Click to expand...

My brother has that splitter (or a version of it) and IIRC it retracts as soon as you let off of the lever, so it would only stay up while you were holding the levers down.
Also, the whole hydraulic system on his is cast together in 2-3 sections, no hoses on it that you could use to "creatively" plumb the pump on to another valve.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
My brother has that splitter (or a version of it) and IIRC it retracts as soon as you let off of the lever, so it would only stay up while you were holding the levers down.
Also, the whole hydraulic system on his is cast together in 2-3 sections, no hoses on it that you could use to "creatively" plumb the pump on to another valve.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Any idea what the operating pressure is? Sounds like it'd lend itself to being cobbled into a power unit for other stuff if the working pressures are high enough.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Any idea what the operating pressure is?
Click to expand...
That ad says 200 bar which is around 2900PSI.
Low duty cycle on the pump/motor though.
arse_sidewards said:
Sounds like it'd lend itself to being cobbled into a power unit for other stuff if the working pressures are high enough.
Click to expand...
It would need some custom machining to make a different bolt together fitting for one of the connections as there are (IIRC) 3 bolted together Oring fittings between the pump and the cylinder (a cast "2 pipe" fitting with high pressure out from the pump to high pressure in for the valve on one side and low pressure return out of the valve and into the pump/tank on the other and a single port fitting from the valve block to the cylinder.
His has 2 valves in the valveblock, one to close the "vent cylinder to tank" valve and one to open the "send pump pressure to cylinder" valve. Both have to be moved to extend the cylinder.

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
That ad says 200 bar which is around 2900PSI.
Low duty cycle on the pump/motor though.

It would need some custom machining to make a different bolt together fitting for one of the connections as there are (IIRC) 3 bolted together Oring fittings between the pump and the cylinder (a cast "2 pipe" fitting with high pressure out from the pump to high pressure in for the valve on one side and low pressure return out of the valve and into the pump/tank on the other and a single port fitting from the valve block to the cylinder.
His has 2 valves in the valveblock, one to close the "vent cylinder to tank" valve and one to open the "send pump pressure to cylinder" valve. Both have to be moved to extend the cylinder.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
That's dumb. But it's more PSI than a lot of other cheap off the shelf hydraulics shit....
 
aczlan said:
Cut every penny to make the price point...

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
Machining isn't free. The one or two factories in China that make them were banking on selling a lot of them with such a special purpose setup.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Machining isn't free. The one or two factories in China that make them were banking on selling a lot of them with such a special purpose setup.
Click to expand...
Needs machine work either way, it's a question of if it's cheaper to machine 6 mating surfaces, bolt holes and Oring grooves or mating surfaces for a 6 ORB, ORFS or NPT fittings and make up 3 short lines.


Aaron Z
 
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Following. I like the movability of a forklift mounted option.

I got the bug when they shut the upper plant down and I got a free 5'x9' Air Compressor frame and some industrial threaded rod.

I Measured once and cut once and didn't leave enough room in the base. So it's currently a giant storage table. :homer:

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aczlan said:
Needs machine work either way, it's a question of if it's cheaper to machine 6 mating surfaces, bolt holes and Oring grooves or mating surfaces for a 6 ORB, ORFS or NPT fittings and make up 3 short lines.

Aaron Z
Click to expand...
I think it's a toss up depending on how cheap your hose assemblies and the labor to put them in is.

Chips made by a drill are the cheapest chips in a shop by a mile or five say nothing of the fact that when you start talking about 3rd world production the difference gets even bigger because some guy in BFE with a drill press can be subcontracted to "finish" the castings
 
arse_sidewards said:
I think it's a toss up depending on how cheap your hose assemblies and the labor to put them in is.

Chips made by a drill are the cheapest chips in a shop by a mile or five say nothing of the fact that when you start talking about 3rd world production the difference gets even bigger because some guy in BFE with a drill press can be subcontracted to "finish" the castings
Click to expand...
Not sure on the relative price, but I assume the pump and the valve block have to hit a mill either way.
Looking at the parts diagram for the current HF one, they changed the design and it uses a pair of tubes with banjo bolts at the ends to go from the pump to the valve, the cylinder is a tie rod type cylinder and the valve is built into the base end cylinder cap.
From: https://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/63000-63999/63366-193175475459.pdf
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Far more amenable to using it as a power source as long as you can source a pair of M14 to whatever adapters.

Aaron Z
 
Got these in.

Top of the jack goes from 22 to 51 inches (including the drop leg portion).

I'll weld 2 inch receivers at each corner, and some 2x2 stubs on each jack. Obviously at 51 inches high it'll be a bit wobbly. Should be able to kick the legs out (splay them) and the table might be less wobbly. Don't think I'll need the much height ever though.

If I ever want lower than 22 I'll just stick the thing on jack stands again.

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going to replace the handle with a big nut? or no plans to raise/lower with something on the table?

suspect they don't make sidewinders in that funky double leg design and that's why you got the top crank?

curious to see how wobbly it is for you when raised up
 
budget76 said:
going to replace the handle with a big nut? or no plans to raise/lower with something on the table?

suspect they don't make sidewinders in that funky double leg design and that's why you got the top crank?

curious to see how wobbly it is for you when raised up
Click to expand...
Yeah, I could have gotten side winders. I kinda like top wind becaue they're simpler and don't have the bevel gears which sometimes fuck up.

I am planning on removing the handles and adding nuts.
 
I got this thing I’m restoring currently but is on the put off project list right now. Priorities yaknow.

The blue one is getting restored and the black table it’s setting on was a lift table twin to it at one time. I took it apart in the early 2000’s to convert my manual bender into full hydraulic. So I welded up the table to ridged mode. I missed my lift table and talked my cousin out of the twin table he had. Got both same time for $12 from his work. He kept one and I did the other. I’m not sure what he did with his over the years but he wasn’t nice to it.

I used to service my race YZ250 on it and other things and I miss it. Some day I’ll get this one up n going again.

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Got started on this.

Perimeter is 2x2x1/8 tubing.
Center bars are 2x2x1/4 angle iron salvaged from an old trailer.

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Chopped up and drilled the sockets and stubs.
Made the holes 1/2 inch.

I've got these 4 inch casters and considering mounting them up inside the frame.
They've got about the right amount of stick out to clear the stacked tubes.

750 lbs rated each.

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