Build 94 Sonoma build

Knocked a few things this morning after turning the truck around. Also found out the tacks on the traction bar were lacking in strength. Burned the traction mount in this morning. Shouldnt break after a 3 pass weld.
Traction tacks.jpg


Had to trim the hydraulic mount for the case spreader. I realize the spreader isnt required for setting up the dana 60 but $64 for a new mount or having issues with a $1300 ARB. I cut that **** with no issues. Maybe I will bolt or mount a new 1/2in plate to it instead of burning in a new one.
Hydraulic mount trim.jpg


Knocked out the setup bearings for the Dana 60 and installed the ring gear onto the ARB. Ring gear was cleaned and stoned before being heated up on the grill to 200F before slipping onto the ARB. Bolt holes and bolts were cleaned with acetone before being torque to 120 ft lbs with red loctite. The diff seems so small after messing around with the Sterling 10.5 yesterday.

I did have a brain fart today thinking I received the wrong ARB unit East Coast Gear. I received a RD167 for 4.10 and down gears but I have 5.38 gears. Then I remember I had received in thick gears which use the carrier for 4.10 and down. :homer:
 
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YotaAtieToo said:
May as well weld your rear tubes to center while you're there.
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Depends on what the diff material is since I'm unable to preheat the axle housing anymore.


Made a little bit of progress on the front diff last night after finishing off prepping the pinion bearing races for setup. The front diff had been setup by someone else at some point in time since the caps were marked with a N or Z depending on side Starting off with the prior shims netted a .040 backlash that I was able to reduce down to .004 before running out of time for the night. Tonight I plan on increasing the backlash to 6-10 thou before I start pulling some patterns.

The vevor diff spreader also needs to be modified to spread the super 60 diff by .020. Overall width is short by 1/2in to the point I run out of threads on the spreader nut right when it gets pressure.
 
I may burn the dana 60 down to the ground.

Pinion was too deep with both the oil slinger and oil baffle installed so I removed the oil slinger and put a .005 shim. The pattern will work but the backlash varies from .008 to .0005 but can't find why.

Runout specs. Motive gears
Back of gear face .002
Case .005 in coaxial
Gear teeth variance .003. Does not corellate to to high or low backlash


Not sure it's going to ****ing matter anyways since I dropped the diff off the table setup when I went to rotate the axle for install pinion races. That was loud sound and chipped the concrete some. No broken teeth but also didn't fully inspect the gear yet. I left it on the floor till tomorrow when I will finish the install. At least the setup bearings were on and not the install ones.
 
Diff seal tool worked ok for putting the side seals in. I had to adjust the seals a little bit with a punch after the install but made the experience easier.
$16
60 seal install.jpg


The crime scene. Roughly a 4ft drop onto concrete floor. Appears the gear hit first based off chuck out of concrete and **** on ring gear. Parts went everywhere.
Ouch.jpg



I was confused by the pinion when I went to install the solid sleeve setup that I also purchased. I couldnt get the crush sleeve or the solid sleeve to fit correctly so I had to go find the old pinion to compare. New gear set came from east coast gear with the ARB and I wonder if Motive is designing the new pinions to eliminate crush sleeves. I had shims from the solid sleeve kit I purchased plus some extra shims that came with.
Shoulder to splines
Old 1.53
New .965
Front pinion difference.jpg


The rear pinion bearings was a little bit challenging to install alone. Its not a press fit but still tight. Fixture table came to the rescue.
Pinion install.jpg


Even ran into a issue with running the pattern since I could reach well enough to put pressure on the deadblow and drill wasnt working. Figure why not use the fixture table again.
Front pattern check.jpg


Final pattern with backlash varying .006-.010 depending on location.
Front final pattern .jpg

Front final pattern 2.jpg

Wonder if the setup bearings were bad since the diff had been rebuilt at some point but no clue if parts were replaced. I was having issues before I dropped the diff off the table. Switching the bearings out to the installation kit bearings seemed to improved the issue.

Everything was going good till I went to test the air locker out after install. Fighting with the setup for 24 removals and 25 installs and 1 floor drop probably lead to this break. 2 steps forward and 1 back. I could order a new collar for $119 (PN 082104SP) from summit racing
ARB issue.jpg


I cant let this beat me.
ARB fix.jpg


Wonder how long this will last but it tested fine after reinstalling the diff.
ARB fix 2.jpg
 
Tomorrow I need to return the ****tiest HF tool I've ever purchased. Not even sure how you could building some this bad when it should be done in a fixture. Pressing items were a challenge.
HF press issue 2.jpg

HF press issue.jpg
 
I have the same press and it's been good for what it is.

Is the stud off center? Mine is definitely not. Why not just cut it off and center it? Gay that's it's ****ed out of the box, but it HF. Probably more work to take it apart, return it and get another one that may be off center also.
 
Damn, sounds like you had a rough weekend, sorry I wasn't around to give you a hand and at least give misery some company.

I would hook the compressor up and see how often it is having to cycle with the repaired copper line before you put everything back together.

YotaAtieToo said:
I have the same press and it's been good for what it is.

Is the stud off center? Mine is definitely not. Why not just cut it off and center it? Gay that's it's ****ed out of the box, but it HF. Probably more work to take it apart, return it and get another one that may be off center also.
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I have the same press as well and it has been fine other than being a little sloppy. The one Duc got is welded together way out of alignment and doesn't press square to the part to are trying to press. It is also binding statically since everything is so out of alignment. You could fix it, but it is probably better off being returned.
 
[QUOTE="'84 Bronco II, post: 2527461, member:




I would hook the compressor up and see how often it is having to cycle with the repaired copper line before you put everything back together.

[/QUOTE]

This for sure! The whole reason I went from damn ARBs to Detroit and a spool was too many seal housing, or whatever leaks.
 
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'84 Bronco II said:
Damn, sounds like you had a rough weekend, sorry I wasn't around to give you a hand and at least give misery some company.

I would hook the compressor up and see how often it is having to cycle with the repaired copper line before you put everything back together.



I have the same press as well and it has been fine other than being a little sloppy. The one Duc got is welded together way out of alignment and doesn't press square to the part to are trying to press. It is also binding statically since everything is so out of alignment. You could fix it, but it is probably better off being returned.
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It builds character .........

Might take a long time to see if mine leaks with a 80 gallon air compressor setup.

This thing is so ****ed on alignment that Im not even sure how they managed that.
Briansc33 said:
This fot sure! The whole reason I went from damn ARBs to Detroit and a spool was too many seal housing, or whatever leaks.
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Im hoping its better now but who knows. Hopefully Im not making a bad decision by buying the ARB versus a Elocker. I've been watching your progress on the no drinking and dam that is a tough journey.

YotaAtieToo said:
I have the same press and it's been good for what it is.

Is the stud off center? Mine is definitely not. Why not just cut it off and center it? Gay that's it's ****ed out of the box, but it HF. Probably more work to take it apart, return it and get another one that may be off center also.
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If they want to refund me some of the money then I may keep it but honestly a older press unit off marketplace would actually hit 20 tons. The units are so thin compared to the old orange ones.

Now to decide what to buy for a compressor for the day thing. The ARB twin is 600 versus 250 for the knock off but with a 5 warranty.
 
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Dude you are in the final stretch...take a hot minute to cool down and get it all together. You are in rage mode and just want it done. I'm in the process of pulling my engine part for the third time just trying to fix oil leaks and I'm ready to set fire to the building it's in.
 
Duc said:
Might take a long time to see if mine leaks with a 80 gallon air compressor setup.
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No, use the compressor that you are actually going to mount in the rig. They have pretty minimal tank volume, so they will cycle a lot if you have much of a leak. It should be able to go at least a few minutes without cycling.
 
Skinny said:
Dude you are in the final stretch...take a hot minute to cool down and get it all together. You are in rage mode and just want it done. I'm in the process of pulling my engine part for the third time just trying to fix oil leaks and I'm ready to set fire to the building it's in.
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Wife made me visit the foster kittens for a cool down period yesterday. Hard to be mad when you have 3 kittens tacking each other in your lap. I took it really slow in the garage today while buttoning up the axle.

'84 Bronco II said:
No, use the compressor that you are actually going to mount in the rig. They have pretty minimal tank volume, so they will cycle a lot if you have much of a leak. It should be able to go at least a few minutes without cycling.
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Still need to figure that out. Debating on the ARB non-brushless dual air compressor, mini compressor or who knows. Would be nice to have something to air up tires on the tow truck, trailer or the truck for some reason.

Also looks like no help on the weekend anymore till after May 6 due to I-40 bridge work. I was going to return the press and have pizza barn for lunch but I-40 was backed way up due to only one lane being open. Schedule every weekend from 7am to 8pm according to signs.

Installed the yukon hubs onto the axle after installing the spicer 1550 axles in. I may need to find grease that is a little less tacky so they release a little better.
Yukon hubs 2.jpg


Just noticed one of the bolts on the passenger side was snapoff inside the hub. Awaiting a reverse out bit for this one.
Hub bolt.jpg


I may need to remove the little job near the fitting. not sure if that will flex later on.
ARB line.jpg


done for the weekend. I was thinking about welding a 1/2in plate the size of the ram to the old mount or even bolting it on. This would allow for easier removal in the future.
Axle closed up.jpg
 
I kinda liked just having the arb mini as a dedicated unit for my locker.

There are so many good, affordable options for 12v portable compressors these days.
 
Just replaced a mini with a single brushless. I don't run ARB'S anymore, but do have a disco, and have added a 5# tank for running air tools, filling tires etc.

Do it right the first time so you don't have go through the re-wiriring bull**** I'm currently dealing with.

Or hell, come take my mini for a twelver of Coors Edge.(N/A) if you wanna be cheap.
 
Briansc33 said:
Just replaced a mini with a single brushless. I don't run ARB'S anymore, but do have a disco, and have added a 5# tank for running air tools, filling tires etc.

Do it right the first time so you don't have go through the re-wiriring bull**** I'm currently dealing with.

Or hell, come take my mini for a twelver of Coors Edge.(N/A) if you wanna be cheap.
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Shame no one seems to make a elocker that holds up in a dana 60 yet but I could be wrong. 12 pack of coors edge sounds like a amazing deal for the ARB mini compressor. Then I can also test the ARB before sealing everything up on the axle fully. I have friday off from work if that works.

YotaAtieToo said:
I kinda liked just having the arb mini as a dedicated unit for my locker.

There are so many good, affordable options for 12v portable compressors these days.
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Much easier to fit the mini than some of the massive ones.


Figure this was a good win tonight. Managed to reverse out the small screw in the hub. Little bit of heat before PB blaster.
small victory.jpg


Transfer the hole location to the 1/2 plate using a transfer punch
Ram mount v2.jpg


Tacked welded the plate on for now but debating on bolting this plate on for ease of getting to the diff cover without needing to cut the welds. I was bolt the ram back on so I can move the truck around this week if needed.
Ram mount v2-2.jpg


I make a list off to the side so hopefully I dont forget to revisit different parts of this project for the finishing details. Like filling the dam diff :laughing:
 
Yup.
Pretty sure you still have my number. Hell you may still remember where I live, If not, PM.
Bring something to eat too.
 
Well that worked out, do the mini for the locker only, or emergency air.

Then just get any given portable 12v. Then you can throw it in the tow rig or wherever it's needed.
 
I have been tempted to buy the harbor freight 125psi one and just get their longest warranty and use it for everything I can think of as much as possible.
 
I disagree.

Most recently I was on a ride through a "10" (more like a 5), **********ers were blowing up **** and shredding tires left and right. I thought I'd be helpful by not only lending my battery for welding, but my "cool compressorI"
Someone (member here, can't remember his name) walked up and said something like "hey man, you can't even seat that bead. Would you like some real OBA?"

Yeah, never again do I want to hear that ****.

Duc, offer stands. If nothing it's a mini that operates for under 20$ (no tomato or mayo) you can at least check your junk with.
 
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'84 Bronco II said:
No, use the compressor that you are actually going to mount in the rig. They have pretty minimal tank volume, so they will cycle a lot if you have much of a leak. It should be able to go at least a few minutes without cycling.
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Not to add gas to the fire. Whatever compressor you choose, mount and isolate it far away from the cab.

Had the arb compressor mounted under the seat in the cab and was annoying as hell. Brrr brrr brrr. Selectable lockers are awesome though. Really free up the drivetrain for trail whipping.
 
Briansc33 said:
Off course it was... Sweetypie.
Because you were there, in said situation.
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What's the situation where an expensive 12v compressor magically seats a bead that a decent one and a rachet strap can't?

I get the difference between having a big shop compressor and a 12v when trying to seat beads. But not 2 different 12v.
 
Briansc33 said:
Read.
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Not going to keep ****ing up the thread after this, but I did, and my statement still stands. Unless your buddies were running wide wheels and boggers or something lame, any half OK compressor can set a bead, done it's dozens of times with about every brand tire.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Which one is that?
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The Auburn Select-a-loc "open to lock" version, not the ****ty re-branded ECTED "limited slip to lock" version. I would have bought one for my buggy if I didn't pick up a new 40 spline Detriot for $300.

There's also the OX as well.

All of Eaton's designs suck, and they don't sell service parts for them anymore. Their direct engagement Dana 60 model is decent, but 06h3 still managed to kill one. The ball and ramp design is complete trash, and their pin and locking collar design is better, but still fundamentally flawed since it disengages and reengages during torque direction changes.
 
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