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94 ranger 2.3

71PA_Highboy

An Unknown but Engorged Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
442
Messages
175
Loc
Near the Triad, Lookin' at the freeway
So... I have had this ranger for a few years... bought it cheap, had a cracked head I replaced with a cheap Ebay head, then the rings went so I built a new short block and moved everything over. Been nickle and nickle'ing me for the last few years ... maybe $400 in parts in the last 50K (5 years) minus maintenance.

The truck itself is a Sandy victim, so already has frame issues, but will last another 5-10 years here in NC miles . AC works, radio works, 5 speed shifts.

Well, it has been ~50K miles, the ebay head needs work, the injectors have issues (leaking down overnight) and honestly, it is kinda gutless.

I don't need a shit ton of power, I have other vehicles for that. I need something small, carry a sheet of plywood, some steel from Race City, and can get out of its own way.

I would look for something newer, but shit is STUPID expensive. Saw a 2011 Ranger for sale at $17.5K. HO LEE FUCK!

Anyway, what are some top end/bolt on options to add some extra power to this old pig on a reasonable budget? I don't want to do an engine swap, so stay 2.3L.
 
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Buy an F150 with a 302, M5OD and BW1356. Perfect drive-train donor for any RBV.

Bonus points if you narrow the rear axle for free-fiddy to get 31spl and use the front as a donor for knuckle/spindle swap.
 
I vote small OEM supercharger (Eaton M62 or M90) off any number of random 90s cars. They are very cheap. fab up an adapter and go to town with some low boost. The last Eaton M90 I bought was like $150 I think.

 
If an M62 is too big you can get an AMR500. It might run out on the top end but it should be able to supply plenty of air down low.
 
Thanks Will!

I was putting some thought into ordering it, then figured I would call them Monday to get their input...

Yesterday I put reman injectors, new plugs and air filter in it, and today I took it for a bit of a drive... went to Uwharrie and ended up breaking the frame... made for an interesting ride home. :eek:

Guess the frame didn't make it 5 or 10 more years....
 
Thanks Will!

I was putting some thought into ordering it, then figured I would call them Monday to get their input...

Yesterday I put reman injectors, new plugs and air filter in it, and today I took it for a bit of a drive... went to Uwharrie and ended up breaking the frame... made for an interesting ride home. :eek:

Guess the frame didn't make it 5 or 10 more years....

Bo is a real smart dude definitely give them a call.

What part of the frame did you break? Time to start replacing it with tube!
 
Bo is a real smart dude definitely give them a call.

What part of the frame did you break? Time to start replacing it with tube!
Broke the frame all the way thru right behind the shock tower on the pass side.

Everything about it is rusty... so I went and bought another ranger


Water pump is leaking, ac needs work, but it has the factory towing package class 3 hitch, new upper A arms.

Was a work truck, so dirty as shit, But I think in a week or two I can have a decent truck...
 
Who the fuck buys a 98+ Ranger? The whole point of a Ranger is that you get a TTB and then go run circles around every asshole in their "mid travel pre-runner" for less than the cost of a parts car.
 
Broke the frame all the way thru right behind the shock tower on the pass side.

Everything about it is rusty... so I went and bought another ranger


Water pump is leaking, ac needs work, but it has the factory towing package class 3 hitch, new upper A arms.

Was a work truck, so dirty as shit, But I think in a week or two I can have a decent truck...
Just backhalf the old Ranger and rock on. BTDT
 
Just backhalf the old Ranger and rock on. BTDT
Do the frames more or less line up from the front cab mounts forward? I know the body mount locations are all the same (hence being able to bolt on a 98+ front clip to a 93-97) but I'm pretty sure the frame is different by the crossmember. I've never measured a 98+ though, just eyeballed.
 
Do the frames more or less line up from the front cab mounts forward? I know the body mount locations are all the same (hence being able to bolt on a 98+ front clip to a 93-97) but I'm pretty sure the frame is different by the crossmember. I've never measured a 98+ though, just eyeballed.
You mean use the late model frame? Eh, it might work. 3/16 plate on the outside of the frame works well
 
You mean use the late model frame? Eh, it might work. 3/16 plate on the outside of the frame works well
I mean

a) cut both frames just before/after the front cab mount and fish plate back together.

or

b) put the coil buckets, crossmember, steering gear and all the other TTB shit on the late model frame.

I took his post to mean that his TTB frame was rusty shit which was why it broke so B probably makes the most sense.
 
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