88 crewcab rebuild

[V30crewcab]

Finally got my frame back in the shop for my crewcab. I've had this truck for years, wrecked it a long time ago, and ended up using a 2wd frame and converting it to 4x4 since I couldn't find a frame then.
A few years ago I got hit in the driver's wheel, and bent that frame. Finally found another k30 frame so I'm building it back again. I've already shortened this frame, and started notching it for the Cummins. Now I'm building a new cross member and then I'll take it apart, get it sandblasted, and paint it.

 

[V30crewcab]

Just making some tabs to tie the member into the motor mounts and that'll be done. Also got a set of upgraded rear spring hangers.

 

[V30crewcab]

Once I get the frame done, I'll pull the truck apart and start switching over stuff. I got a nv5600 to try this time around instead of my 4500.

 

[BustedCrank]

Hopefully third time is the charm!

 

[V30crewcab]

Got the tabs made and welded on. Contacted ord about one for a Cummins but they didn't have time to do it, so I built it myself. Probably best as now it fits tight with the mounts I built.

 

[V30crewcab]

Then I trimmed the frame a touch for PS pump clearance and started knocking out rivets. This frame had an engine fire, so I'm taking brackets off so it all gets sandblasted and primed, then I'll rivet it back together and paint it.

 

[Clb]

Sweet
Keep on it.
Some inspiration


My 91

 

[V30crewcab]

Off to the sandblaster today. should be picking it back up tomorrow afternoon so I can prime it, and get started riveting things back together. that should be interesting. the truck is still driveable, but soon I'll have to pull it apart to put it all in this frame. not gonna be super fast as I'm changing up a few things. but I don't want to drag it out long so I'll have to get it done.

 

[Alexis700]

I have a 84 k20 I am slowly working on swapping a 12 valve into. I am planning on boxing the frame in from front horns to back of cab , and probably all the way to the back. Also have a bunch of 4x4x.250 square tube to make new cross members out of, one at steering box , and two at rear spring hangers. Will run a 2x4 rectangle tube cross member that ties motor mounts together under oil pan.

How solid does the GM frame feel un boxed running a cummins in it? I look at my second gen dodge frame and then the chevy open c channel and its a huge difference in beef.

 

[V30crewcab]

I can feel this frame twist when I hammer down on it. its a big piece of taffy under power! I am looking in to boxing this frame before I get it all back together.

 

[Alexis700]

Ok, yeah kinda how I figured it would be. I always didnt like how gm and dodge ran open c channel up front whereas even a 70s ford highboy is boxed in the front.

What springs do you run under the front of your rig? I am planning on some 52s from the rear of a k10 but if there is a better budget option Ill look into it. Alcans are too much $$$ for me. A pair of brand new 52s is around $450 from rock auto , with different load ratings available.

I really like the crew cab square cummins , bad ass truck for sure. Will be following this thread.

 

[total newb]

52s and add layers and 1.5-2.5" longer shackles.

I think there might be 7 layers in my crew fronts now including add-a leafs. Still nice n squishy

 

[V30crewcab]

I run tuff country hd 4" lift fronts. 52's are way too soft for a 900lb engine. this is a driver/tow rig, not a wheeling rig. needs to be stable at 25k+ lbs. I pull my loaded gooseneck with this most of the time.

 

[Alexis700]

Thats the intended purpose for my k20 , its a work truck and will do some towing. I was looking at these , didnt think a 2775 lb spring would be too soft. Was thinking the higher rated 52" springs would be firmer than adding leafs to the 4" superlift springs that are in it now.

 

[350TacoZilla]

The stock front are rated at like 1400-1500 for a 1 ton big block truck aren't they? The rears are all higher then that so I would think the softness your feeling is literally the reason people swap to 52's, more flex and better ride. I ran K5 52's that I had frankensteined together by removing the overload and bottom leaf and replacing them with the bottom 3 leaves from my front lift springs I had on before. They ended up being almost flat and rode great on a crew cab with diesel in it so near big block weight.

 

[V30crewcab]

Got it back from sandblasting, so primed it, then today my friend came over and we got a few things riveted back on. Got a few more mods to do and I hope to finish all the riveting this week so I can prime over everything again. I'm using spi epoxy primer, you can leave it as is for frame paint it says.
Quite a pain in the ass riveting but bolts didn't tighten up in the holes like a rivet does so I'm going with that.

 

[350TacoZilla]

Riveting them is awesome, I always wanted to try it before but was worried I would never be able to get it tightened up correctly\safely. Where with bolts and lock nuts it's bit easier to tell that something is tight or not.

On boxing in the frame I have to wonder how far back would be effective. Seems like rear cab mounts or maybe the front spring hanger of the rear axle. There was a guy years ago that took a second frame, pulled the crossmembers out and then sleeved the passenger side rail into the driver side of his frame then repeated on the other side. It looked like a shit ton of work because he trimmed around all the stock crossmembers on his frame then fully welded the whole thing, also believe he sleeved all through bolts and welded in captive nuts everywhere else.

 

[V30crewcab]

trying to decide if I should box the frame(hard to paint inside it) or just plate it. which is stronger? would plating it work as well as boxing? indecision sucks.

 

[350TacoZilla]

Plating would be easier for sure but I'm not sure on strength since it would still be an open C channel frame just thicker. Guessing boxing would be stronger but as you said then its harder to clean\coat the inside. Me personally if I had it apart like bare frame I would at least box to rear cab mount. They have those cans with the long hose on to coat inside the frame and if you leave drain holes in the metal you use to box it in then you can still get in there to clean and spray (think small scallops on top and bottom of the metal where it meets the frame)

 

[V30crewcab]

Well started CAD design tonight. Gonna scallop the top and bottom edges, and put some holes down the middle so I can get in behind it to bolt stuff, etc. the section were the trans crossmember is will have to bolt in so it's removable. Using the stock piece and it sits on the top of the bottom rail.

 

[Skinny]

I ordered leafs from Rockauto. By the time I got them hung and realized one side sits way low even though they are the same part number Rockauto told me to go eat a big dick.

Of course they don't do that directly because I don't think there is a single human that works at that company.

Just wanted to share that with you and make sure at any point I share how Rockauto sucks balls.