What's new

'84 Xtra cab to ftoy


Kwisatz Haderach
May 19, 2020
Member Number
Memphis, TN
This will be low tech, mainly why i never posted it on the other site

Hopped a Greyhound to Anderson, SC and picked this up. Drove it 500 miles home running 70 and got 20 mpg

31714 493.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	31714 493.jpg Views:	0 Size:	42.0 KB ID:	30541

The two tone wasn't doing it for me so I primered it.

IMAG0048.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0048.jpg Views:	0 Size:	607.4 KB ID:	30542

IMAG0051.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0051.jpg Views:	0 Size:	398.9 KB ID:	30543

Went to Hot Springs Thanksgiving '14.
After a minor incident on Gorge it looked like this. It was a slow motion 270 degree roll. I just crouched down in the cab and hung on tight. Didn't get hurt at all......fortunately.

Click image for larger version  Name:	gorgeroll.jpg Views:	0 Size:	165.8 KB ID:	30544

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0450.jpg Views:	0 Size:	223.3 KB ID:	30549

Click image for larger version  Name:	image_7485.jpg Views:	3 Size:	169.7 KB ID:	30553

Click image for larger version  Name:	image_7485.jpg Views:	3 Size:	169.7 KB ID:	30553

Pulled a plug and it was dry. Took a little doing but it fired back up and we drove back to the parking lot. Mack backed up a hill in the upper section of the parking lot, I pulled up at the bottom of the hill, Jackrabbit pulled up facing my passenger side. We ran straps thru the cab and they played tug of war with their winches. Then we used a hilift on the drivers side for a little added roof raising. It came out pretty good.

Click image for larger version  Name:	hiliftfixcab.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	146.9 KB ID:	30555

Click image for larger version  Name:	hiliftfixcab2.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	175.7 KB ID:	30556

We wound up wheeling another 4-5 hours. Between this spot on
Greg's Rocks and the Rock Garden my clutch wound up looking like this and I further bashed up the driver side. Single stock case and stock clutch was not happy.

Click image for larger version  Name:	gregsrocks.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	178.5 KB ID:	30557

Click image for larger version  Name:	smokedclutch.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	90.0 KB ID:	30558

So with the clutch smoked, wheeling ended and plans for rebirth started rolling thru my head. I originally intended to put another cab on it. Found one south of Knoxville for 250.00. The more I thought about it though and the more I thought about how I prefer the tougher trails, putting a new cab on with an exo morphed into going ftoy instead. The problem I have with an ftoy is getting in and out of the thing. Then I saw a modified version of one......on that other site

Click image for larger version  Name:	nonconformula.jpg Views:	0 Size:	60.7 KB ID:	30559

Click image for larger version  Name:	nonconformula2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	57.3 KB ID:	30560

And I decided that was something I could live with. difference being I would stay on leafs. Skin it, throw a mojave heater in it and possibly even a removable lexan windshield.

So the dismantling begins......I was renting a place with my best friend, double carport only, so I ghetto'd an enclosure since this is taking place in the cold. All the dismantle was done by me with no help including pulling the bed and cab.

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0469.jpg Views:	0 Size:	381.0 KB ID:	30564

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0469.jpg Views:	0 Size:	381.0 KB ID:	30564

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0470.jpg Views:	0 Size:	331.0 KB ID:	30565

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0471.jpg Views:	0 Size:	242.0 KB ID:	30566

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0485.jpg Views:	0 Size:	177.3 KB ID:	30567

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0487.jpg Views:	0 Size:	239.9 KB ID:	30568

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0484.jpg Views:	0 Size:	312.2 KB ID:	30569

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0490.jpg Views:	0 Size:	208.9 KB ID:	30570

Commenced removing all unneeded brackets

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0512.jpg Views:	0 Size:	283.3 KB ID:	30572

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0512.jpg Views:	0 Size:	283.3 KB ID:	30572

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0512.jpg Views:	0 Size:	283.3 KB ID:	30572

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0512.jpg Views:	0 Size:	283.3 KB ID:	30572

And then threw some primer on it since it was going to be a minute before going to the tube work guy

Click image for larger version  Name:	IMAG0523.jpg Views:	0 Size:	127.4 KB ID:	30576

I still had to pull the motor, clean up the front of the frame and put the 4" TG springs back under it in the front (had rufs) then it was ready to go for the tube work and inboarding of the rear springs. I pulled the dash out of the cab (still have it actually along with hvac stuff) before scrapping it. The tube work guy was/is a Hendricks ftoy chassis guy. He has built about 30 so he didn't even need my roller before he started bending tube. He did need some measurements though since he had never built on an extra cab length frame before. Tube work is a side gig for him. He owns a BMW repair shop for his main gig.






Last edited:
While I'm waiting on chassis guy, it's time to gather some parts




Ordered 2 sheets of 14 ga perforated metal and 3 sticks of 1 x 1 x .083 wall tubing for the floor/supports.

Scored a propane kit on Hardline, still have to get tanks and brackets but otherwise complete.

And scored 2 tanks


And a 12voltguy panel


Ordered a Marlin turbo clutch upgrade. Comes with a bigger flywheel and clutch, 9-5/16 vs 8-7/8

Got a few progress pics from the chassis guy







He changed things up from the previous pic to here. He had this FJ40 bezel, already cut in half and asked me if I wanted it. I said sure.


Picked this up. Chassis guy runs one on his ftoy and likes it so I snagged one. As you can see it is a short drum.


Some more progress on the tube


The door bars will go away and be replaced with the drop bars after we put the engine/trans/cases in. He wants to wait until then when he is doing the floors so he can properly place the bars in relation to my seating position.


His ftoy on the left. His is a true spec chassis and he used to to compete pretty regularly.


While he was kinking tube, me and my friend were working on dual case stuff. 2.28/2.28.......for now




Also got all the smog stuff off the motor. Did EGR block off, assembled engine, trans, and xfer cases and put it in the FToy so it can go back for more tube work.


Transmission, crawl box and xfer case. One long bitch.




Now to take it back to chassis guy so he can do floors, do the drop entry bars after mounting seats, add a couple more bars on either side of the engine bay, rad mount, winch mount, fab brackets for my propane tanks and C02 tank and a mount for the 12 volt guy panel, oh shit handle for passenger and tabs for roof panel and side panels. He also has to revisit the front shock mounts as I will only have about 2" of downtravel in their current state with my 14" shocks. See pics for what I mean.




Worked on driveshafts. Ran out of wire before we could finish the rear shaft.

Front before


Front finished


Rear unfinished. That is 3" D.O.M. .188 wall that is going inside the stock shaft.


Rear shaft done. Weighs 32lbs




Crossmember progress


The side pieces had to be cut down since the motor is moved back 8". Took what we cut off and welded it underneath.



Cut the bar out for the drop entry and added an upright



Started on the floor framework and seat mount tabs. More supports will be added, this was just enough to get the seat mounted.


Got the driver seat pretty well finalized.


Decided there will be no back seat as the propane tanks are going to be mounted like this pic I found

Radiator support is done


Steering column mock up. The second pic, crappy as it is, is what I'm having him do. I have the same switch panel. The tube you see tacked at clutch pedal height will be changed. It is going to bend up to meet the node just above it, ride about 2" above my leg when in the seat, then it will bend up where it ties in behind the seat.


Passenger side tank mount, driver side will mirror this. Only one tank strap will be used on each. He is also going to mount my C02 tank. There is an area just in front of that "ladder" you see that he is going to add tubing and make for some storage directly behind the seats.


Rear cargo area supports





Sorry about the blurry


Bought a set of 39" Reds on aluminum beadlocks, sold my 36" Iroks on beadlocks


Dash bar and panel mount


Passenger drop entry


Driver side


36' IROKS vs 39 reds


Curiosity got the best of me,I was wondering what the weight difference in the IROKs and reds might be.

The 36/13.5/15 IROKs on steel beadlocks weigh 105 lbs

The 39/13.5/17 Reds on aluminum beadlocks weigh 101 lbs

Home at last, time to start prepping for paint. June 24, 2016. Mind you I rolled it Thanksgiving of '14.








Had to throw the seats and tanks in for mock up




The 4 tabs you see on the right behind the propane tank are for the C
O2 tank mount














All sanding was done with an electric D.A. and a flap wheel and coarse steel wool, took a solid 10 hours.






2 coats of Valspar Massey Ferguson gray farm implement paint










And this is what I put it on with, a 2" high density foam roller and a chip brush. That's right, I didn't spray it.

Brown santa brought this today......lexan

The 2 in the back are for the side panels, the front is for a temporary windshield when needed, it is MR10, much more scratch resistant than regular lexan and way more expensive. That piece cost nearly as much as the other two combined.

Impossible to buy this stuff locally without getting raped. I got this on ebay and with shipping it was over $200 cheaper than I could get it in town.


Cardboard template



Cut it with tin snips, lefts and rights, doubt it could be done with straights


Time for some wiring and cable making


The short fat cable is the ground for the winch. I'm not going to run it all the way to the battery, just ground to the chassis.
The little jumper is for the master disconnect and the long red wire will run from the master disco to the alternator


I've got more to make but I'm waiting on wire and cable to get here. Using marine grade wire and welding cable for the needed additional battery cable.

I was going to use this fancy flaring tool and make brake lines.......but after messing with this I went braided.






This stuff at the front will have to wait on the firewall to get completely situated

Had to move the pedal assembly forward a bit to get the slave cylinder line on.


Never did get this to work

Bling bling battery tray. Really slow going as wiring is not my thing, even as basic as the wiring on this thing is I'm just not cut out for it. I might as well be trying to translate French to Russian, I have a serious mental block when it comes to wiring




Extremely low key tail lights


Rock lights, small but extremely bright and neodymium magnetic mount. I routed the wires inside the frame and will leave enough slack so I can move them where they will shine best. There are two in back and two in front. The tail lights and rock lights will be on a separate switch from the headlights. Sometimes when night riding in a group it sucks to need to look back and the rig behind you is blinding you with their headlights.



Dash panel from left over lexan. I'll paint it of course. I'm going to mount the coil and igniter underneath to keep them somewhat guarded from the elements. I ordered a two 3' coil wires (one for a spare since 3' coil wires aren't sitting on most parts house shelves) in order to be able to move it that far.


This is the color everything will get, roof inside and out, hood outside, firewall inside and side panels. Under hood can stay bare as well as engine side of firewall


Hood, roof and firewall mocked up



I'm going to radius the corners of the roof before mounting. It hangs over enough to overlap the temporary windshield when it is in place.....should help keep some rain off when getting caught in it.


I used a jigsaw to cut the radius for the trans. I only had two fine tooth blades and they both got gummed up to the point of unusable. That left me with 1 very coarse tooth blade, I said w.t.h. and put it in....it flew thru that 1/8" aluminum like it wasn't there.....note to self. The straight cuts were with a 60 tooth carbide tipped blade in the circular saw, again it flew thru the aluminum like paper.

I'll likely put that door edge trim stuff around everything when I get ready to mount them.

Gotta see to back up, right

Test fitting the grille and headlights


Grille painted and in place, a little hack-tacular but I ain't trying to win the Ridler award


And the headlights all wired



Going to need to see inside if you go on a night ride

insidelights.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	insidelights.jpg Views:	0 Size:	387.9 KB ID:	31509

I screwed up the strip above the driver seat as you can see they aren't all lit, worry about it later

I mentioned using door edge trim.....


hoodtrim.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	hoodtrim.jpg Views:	0 Size:	293.9 KB ID:	31510


rooftrim1.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	rooftrim1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	388.3 KB ID:	31511

rooftrim2.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	rooftrim2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	359.5 KB ID:	31512

Not real crazy about how I have to run the wire but I'm not fishing it thru the tube

wirerun1.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	wirerun1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	372.9 KB ID:	31513

wirerun3.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	wirerun3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	513.6 KB ID:	31514

Got more clean up to do here

underdash.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	underdash.jpg Views:	0 Size:	485.9 KB ID:	31515

An idea of what the side panels will look like when they are in place

sidepanel1.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	sidepanel1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	434.6 KB ID:	31516

Moving right along

Rear case taken apart so the 4.7 gears can go in

rearcaseapart.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	rearcaseapart.jpg Views:	0 Size:	425.8 KB ID:	31517

Using the bearing heater at work to get this bearing back on the shaft without a press. Bearing heaters kick serious ass by the way.





I bought a Lokar throttle cable and had to modify the attachment at the mixer. I had to cut the bell crank and drill a hole in it to accept the Lokar end.


Then I had to modify the gas pedal. Had to cut the end off and rotate it 90* to accept the Lokar end.



My friend had given me a block off plate way back before I bought the whole LCE desmog kit with all the block off plates. It just so happens that the 2 holes in it lined up perfectly with the holes I had already drilled when I thought I would be able to use the stock throttle cable. Just had to drill the center hole for the cable end to go thru. I had to use some spacers to get it positioned right.




Radiator and shroud are in
Got the propane stuff all mounted. Still have to run water lines here and I haven't decided on where I'm going to tie the water lines in just yet.


Cleaned things up some under the dash best as I could


Brakes are bled, clutch is too but not sure the clutch doesn't need more attention. Never bled a clutch before. All the switches on the 12voltguy panel are working. Going to load it up and take it to Alpine Saturday (that is chassis guys business) for redoing the front shock mounts, power steering res mounting, knuckle ball gussets, removable floor pieces and modifying the front tcase shifter since it is interfering with the gear shift. After that all that is left is exhaust and getting the propane tanks filled......then it's shakedown run time
Last edited:
Got the exhaust done





I've got header wrap for the pipe, probably going to buy some muffler specific wrap from the same outfit. Likely cut a heat shield as well out of leftover 1/8" aluminum I have and put it directly over the muffler. Changed the oil, got new radiator hoses, filled it with antifreeze, ran all the vacuum lines. Going after work tomorrow and getting the propane tanks filled and the guy who comes and works on our forklifts at work is going to come by and the plan is to fire it up. I yanked the power steering hose as my reservoir isn't mounted yet.
It lives!!!!!
Oct 19, 2016

I cranked it today and drove it down the street a couple of times, runs like a sewing machine and drives. I can't get over how smooth it runs. I put in extreme low gear, put the back tire at the very end of the driveway and "walked the crawler" back into the garage just for S&G's. It takes 1 min 28 sec to crawl from the end of the driveway back into the garage. Typical subdivision 2 car length driveway.

This is a good day!!!

Loaded and off to the shop.....


Tore the front down to do knuckle ball gussets and alter the shock mounts by about 3". these springs aren't even broken in yet so they are going to settle some which will in turn change the uptravel/downtravel amounts to where they should be inline






More shots of the knuckle ball gussets....not concerned with any weakness here now. Here is where the adjustment to my shock up/downtravel was corrected. The lower mount is about 3" higher now. Also, when we flexed it out he could tell the springs weren't broken in yet. He said my springs should have been negative at the point he had raised the driver front tire with the lift. He said by the time the springs get broken in (4-5 serious rides) my travel both directions should be where it should. Supposedly the springs were brand new when I got the truck. I went on one run and then yanked them for some RUFs, so they are likely far from cycled in.



Recovery points



Hood tabs


Power steering res he gave me, don't know what happened to make this pic suck so bad


Exhaust wrapped up




Seats in, harnesses in and adjusted, removable floorboard pieces in. Skipped the nutserts for the floorboard pcs and I just drilled and tapped instead. The nutsert tool he had is huge and would have been a pain getting it in position in the cab area.

cockpit.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	cockpit.jpg Views:	0 Size:	442.8 KB ID:	31616

Panels hung

sideshot1.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	sideshot1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	377.0 KB ID:	31617

sideshot3.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	sideshot3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	401.8 KB ID:	31618

Drilled the hood....

hooddrilled.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	hooddrilled.jpg Views:	0 Size:	212.3 KB ID:	31619

So it could sit over these bolts...

hoodinplace.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	hoodinplace.jpg Views:	0 Size:	380.6 KB ID:	31620

99.999% finished

Mounted the CB. Might seem like a strange place but there is nowhere in the dash area to put it and more forward and centered wasn't going to work either. I'll run wiring to the switch panel later. Just using a cigarette lighter plug for now

cbmounted1.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	cbmounted1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	421.8 KB ID:	31621

cbmounted2.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	cbmounted2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	430.1 KB ID:	31622

After buying the wrong size fittings from Summit, I went to Fluid Air and got what I needed to go from -AN fittings to hose barbs so I could get my hydro assist back online. Bought a new high pressure hose yesterday and put it on. Got some heat shielded loom on the line closest to the exhaust manifold

psresmounted3.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	psresmounted3.jpg Views:	0 Size:	470.7 KB ID:	31623

Bought a piece at the hardware store to mount the air filter. The propane mixer has a 2" o.d. neck where the filter goes. The smallest filter neck I could find was 3" i.d. A little MacGyver action with some tool drawer liner stuff and I was able to make each end fit right.

airfilter.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	airfilter.jpg Views:	0 Size:	371.8 KB ID:	31625

airfilter2.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	airfilter2.jpg Views:	0 Size:	419.3 KB ID:	31626

CO2 tank now mounted to stay. You cant see it really but the CB antenna mount is on the tank bracket

co2inplace.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	co2inplace.jpg Views:	0 Size:	517.7 KB ID:	31627

Got to grease all the joints and that is pretty much it....ready for Saturday at Hawk Pride....almost 2 years since I rolled it. To say I'm a little anxious is an understatement.

Went wheelin' 3 weekends in a row. Since I bent the rear housing on my 3rd trip out here is the replacement. It is an IFS width rear whereas the old one was a solid front axle width. Went rear disc as well. Three inches wider and it has chromoly axles to boot. Still have to modify the brake brackets to fit. Should hold up better.


Decided against modifying the brackets I was given, I said to hell with it and bought a kit from JT Outfitters. In an hour and a half I had the kit installed and the brakes bled.




Something I didn't like about the buggy from the beginning was the fact that my gear shift would crash with the extreme low range shifter if I was in extreme low and need to go in reverse. If you are working an obstacle requiring some back and forth to negotiate and needing wicked low range, constantly having to shift out of wicked low to grab reverse and then back into wicked low to go forward again is a pain.....and a long reach.

A friend of a friend gave me a twin stick for a chain driven Toyota case. I had a fairlead from my winch that I'm not using......I had a friend who I used to work with burn me a plate on a laser in order to mount the shifter




When you aren't made of money you do what you can to remedy the situation. i had talked to guy on pirate who makes triple shifters but mine would be the reverse of what he makes since I wanted to keep my shifters in the rear location. What he makes move the shifters forward, mainly for folks who are trying to keep a console in place or are using a bench seat in a full bodied rig. And in order for him to make what I wanted.......was going to cost me, in his words, well over $500......uhhhh.....no......

I modified it since I didn't need the two sticks to operate independently. The same guy who burned the mounting plate burned me 4 round slugs as well so I could use pins/cotter keys to connect everything when done. I bought mini rod ends and a pc of tubing for the linkage



I bought a second fairlead to use to mount it


I took the problem shift lever out of the equation


Cut the ends off of the twin stick that go inside the case (the hourglass looking things) and had them welded to two of the slugs the guy burned for me


Then had that welded to the stub of the shifter and did more test fitting


Once the test fitting was done, cut the stub off as far as I could, painted everything and.......




Problem solved, problem staying solved for nowhere near $500+. Of course the pirate guy was going to design it to where the 3 shifters would have all been grouped together but my ghetto fabulous design gets the job done just fine.
I like the shifter fix. Mine are setup similar, triple shifters over the rear t case instead of the front like most people do it.
Nice project so far!! Thanks for posting your remote shifter setup, that's exactly what I need to build in my FToy to give me room for the VX auto shifter from RADesigns.
Wheeled it for 3-1/2 years with little breakage, 1 rear ujoint at the tcase,1 front r&p and 1 rear r&p 8 months apart. I don't drive it like I hate it though.

Video is from first maiden voyage

CUCV axles, 4.56's, Detroit in rear, front was open but is welded now




High steer arms, double shear flavor


Flanges courtesy of High Angle so I can keep my driveshafts


Needed 8 lug wheels of course so I got these 42 IROKS on Allieds. Sold the IROKS and my 6 lug Allieds


Rear disc swap


Front ready to go


Shaved using TMR 15 bolt kit. Went with ubolt eliminator perches.








Maiden voyage on the tons was in Clayton, OK. the steering ram was too exposed for my liking and it did get hit. Figured it needed protection.




Sold this rig, bought another. A bit of a step up.

CR Fab buggy
22R turbo propane
RA 9 housings, 5.38's
True Hi9 front, Detroit
Spool rear (until ARB arrives)
4 pistons
Single 4.7 case
Rear disconnect
50* steering
39 reds on Methods
Aluminum lower links
Fox 2.0's
Cutting brakes
Right hand drive

Last edited:
next question, very close to my last question. so how do you like 5.38 and single 4.7 with turbo pane. my current is 7.17 with 4.7 and 2.28 and totally love it. i have been super curious about the 5.38 being deep enough.

looking good by the way impressive steering
next question, very close to my last question. so how do you like 5.38 and single 4.7 with turbo pane. my current is 7.17 with 4.7 and 2.28 and totally love it. i have been super curious about the 5.38 being deep enough.

looking good by the way impressive steering
Cant answer that until after this coming weekend. Just took delivery of this rig (from OR) last Saturday. Maiden voyage LD weekend.
Top Back Refresh