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78-79 KP D60 14x1.5 studs

Byro

Lurkin’
Joined
May 19, 2020
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East Canton, OH
So anyone out there found a 14mm stud for the Snow fighter? I’ve found some 9/16, 610-381 is the Dorman part no. with .618” knurl which by my best guess woild
press into the hubs, which are .604” knurl without too much issue.

I was able find this in my searching, https://downtofab.com/products/dtf-hrdwr0005 which requires drilling the hubs.

On a wheeling trip and I pulled the the threads on the 1/2” studs, so I’d like to find something from the local Vatozone or O’reallys.
 
Here's my experience with my '79 Ford hi-pin dana 60--good luck....

I found the issue--the Dorman 610-300 knurl works in the hub, but it needs to be ½" -1" below the head and these aren't, so I just have to find a stud that has the knurl in that location with a shoulder to fit chevy rotor....on the hunt...

I have 2-3 options, thanks to chainsawron's link to that thread and doing a little searching---tomorrow I'll swing by Oreilly's return the ones and see if they have any of the the other options...may have to buy a drill bit though and drill out the hubs a little, but we shall see...

Hubs for 86-91 ford dana 60 kingpin axle take Dorman 610-278 wheel studs. They take a 9/16x18 lug nut. This is the same stud that Chevy uses on their 1986 K20 4x4 front axle that GubNi uses for his brake kit to change the ford brakes to chevy. This solved my issue after buying the wrong ones 3 times.

Hubs for 1979 Ford dana 60 kingpin axle take a different stud and nut and the ones I bought were Dorman 610-300 and uses a 9/16x18 lug nut and Raybestos 6058B and uses a ½x20 lug nut and NEITHER are CORRECT due to knurl location. You will want Dorman 610-279 and it uses the 1/2x20 lug nut.

My problem was that I thought I had 1979 hubs and that's what I had planned to use, but once I kept having issues I switched over to my 1988 hubs and I think all 4 hubs are 86-91 ford. I'll have to double triple check the hubs I thought were 1979 to see if in fact they are or aren't.

So when everyone says things are the same on all those Ford kingpin axles they really aren't when it comes to the hubs. And I think there's a bastard year or two in there also, like 1985 and ?? or. This will need further investigation with BillaVista's Dana 60 Bible. I did read it but there's very little info about wheel studs.

Of course it snowed today and is about 12* outside and I was only able to pick up 12 studs, so I ordered 4 more and will get them tomorrow and if I get lucky I can install the remaining studs, grease up the outer bearings and slam those hubs on. Then I can bolt on a wheel and check some clearances to figure out frame, steering box and track bar bracket locations. I will paint the brake calipers this weekend I think, but those aren't a major item to install yet, as I've got to gusset the frame and work on shock towers and a few other things before I concentrate on brakes.

So recapping buying GubNi's chevy brake kit for a ford front dana 60 king pin and not having any wheels studs caused me some fun and so now if anyone reads this they'll know what to buy to avoid my type of fun and be careful of knurl diameter and where the knurl is placed on the stud as it needs to be down away from the head about 1/2".
 
Dorman 610-279 are the standard 1/2-20 replacement. After looking over old threads to go to 9/16-18 on my 79 Ford Dana 60, I ended up with Dorman 610-278. The knurl is slightly larger and rather than risk cracking the hub, the holes were drilled with a 39/64 drill. Holes ended up right at 0.610, giving ~0.010 press on the knurls and pressed in tightly. I'm running these with the stock rotors/calipers - GM rotors may need something different.

The Dorman catalog is a good resource here: https://www.dormanproducts.com/flipbook/dorman/automotive-hardware/2006-automotive-hardware.pdf

Taking a quick look at the catalog for the correct form (shoulder for the rotor, knurl a bit further from the head), it does not look like there are may options in M14. Dorman 610-332 looks like the DTF stud linked, but are pretty short compared to the stock studs. Something like the 610-437 may also work as it has a longer knurl length, but you would need to check the diameter vs. the holes in the rotor as well as the head diameter vs the spotface on the rotor. It looks like all M14 studs have a larger knurl diameter than the stock studs, so drilling may be necessary.
 
The trail fix for the weekend ended up being 610-278’s and chucking them in my cordless drill and grinding the knurl/shoulder a little until I could hammer them into the hub without too much trouble.

Ideally I’d still like to swap to 14x1.5, call me OCD. :flipoff2: I have an idea for that as well, but that involves swapping rotors and calipers, which sounds like a lot of work just to run different wheel studs, but I can get two birds with one stone, as I seriously hate the factory Ford calipers.
 
....Ideally I’d still like to swap to 14x1.5, call me OCD. :flipoff2: I have an idea for that as well, but that involves swapping rotors and calipers, which sounds like a lot of work just to run different wheel studs, but I can get two birds with one stone, as I seriously hate the factory Ford calipers.

Old thread, I know. Curious if you found a good solution here. I'm in the same boat and I need to buy rotors/calipers anyway, plus would like to swap to 14mm to match my 14B rear.
 
Old thread, I know. Curious if you found a good solution here. I'm in the same boat and I need to buy rotors/calipers anyway, plus would like to swap to 14mm to match my 14B rear.

2015 Ram 2500 front lug studs

Dorman 610-428

There ya go.


And no I haven’t yet. I want to make caliper brackets to run the stock 14B calipers on the KP60. Same calipers front and rear with 14x1.5 studs. I have both axles just sitting at the shop to do it, just haven’t got around to dragging them up on the bench.
 
2015 Ram 2500 front lug studs

Dorman 610-428

That knurl is too close to the head. The original Ford stud is a 610-279 with the knurl about 1/2" from the head since it has to pass through the rotor to engage the hub assy.
 
I am guessing that you are wanting to match up with a 14b? Would it be easier to go 1/2 or 9/16 on a 14b or whatever you are trying to match?
 
The issue I had was that the factory studs were too short for my aluminum wheels. Ripped a wheel off 2 miles in on the first day of a 3 day trip. I spent close to 3-4 hours researching wheel studs that would work that the local parts store in BFE actually had 16 of. What a nightmare that was.
 
I am guessing that you are wanting to match up with a 14b? Would it be easier to go 1/2 or 9/16 on a 14b or whatever you are trying to match?
Yeah, trying to match up the 14mm that's on the 14B, AND long enough for alum wheels.
As Bryo mentioned, they're too short and I'm worried about pulling threads. Swapping everything over to 9/16 may be an option too I suppose.

Looking at the Dorman catalog there's not really a perfect solution, 610-332 is still a little short IMO. However... 610-437 is 14mm, has a 1" shoulder, 16mm knurl length, and is 76mm (almost 3") long. Very close to the 14B rear length of 80mm'ish. The only issue is the head diameter is just over 27mm, where the OE rotors have a smaller recess for the head, about 24-25mm best I can tell (hard to get my caliper in there)

I'm going to fetch one of the 610-437's and see if the head can be turned down a bit to fit the rotor, then give it a test fit.
 
I’m in the process of converting to 6 lug and 5/8” studs.

Running a metric 14 bolt caliper and slip over rotor is the way to do it, there isn’t a metric stud that allows for the factory rotor to be used. I need to make the bracket to do it. I tinkered with it for a while and never really finished it.
 
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