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60x60 shop build

Fl-Krawler

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 3, 2020
Member Number
3107
Messages
81
Loc
Cookeville, Tennessee
Im about to start drying in my 60x60 shop. 6 x 6 x 16 posts and steel trusses. Can you recommend me the proper screws to attach the girts and purlins? Google search isnt coming up with much. Both girts and purlins are going to be mounted 24" OC and covered with sheet metal
 
It's just a post frame shop..6x6 poles on 10' centers.. using 2x4 girts and purlins on 24" centers.. just looking for recommendations on the right screws to use to attach the girts to the poles and pulling to the trusses
 
You’re not about to be drying it in if the trusses and girts aren’t even hung. Sounds like you’re out of your element . If you’ve gone 10’ OC those girts and purlins should be 2x6 or larger.

I’m sure there’s a framer on here that will chime in .
 
Leadfoot21 said:
You’re not about to be drying it in if the trusses and girts aren’t even hung. Sounds like you’re out of your element . If you’ve gone 10’ OC those girts and purlins should be 2x6 or larger.

I’m sure there’s a framer on here that will chime in .
Click to expand...
my pole building is 12'OC and purlins are 2x6, 25+ years, it still hasn't fallen over
but I was a kid in my 20's, I used 20 penny galv and sent it with a 20oz check faced hammer. Easy peasy
 
It's a pole barn that will be enclosed so I can assure you 2x4 girts mounted 24" oc to the 6x6 poles and trusses that are on 10' centers already standing will be more than sufficient to hold the sheet metal to them. Same goes for the roof and purlins. The trusses and sheet metal came from another shop that was taken down but nails were used for everything with 2x4's for the girts and purlins. I want to use screws to hold it all together. That's all I'm asking for.
 
71PA_Highboy said:
Pics? lots of opportunity to misunderstand here....
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Agreed.
Are the steel trusses sitting on a notch in the 6x6?
I don't know where you're located, but you need to allow for wind load and possibly snow load. 10' is quite a span for a 2x4 pulling. Are the purlins being screwed on top of the trusses?
You're also going to need some diagonal bracing. The steel skin alone isn't enough to keep it from collapsing.
Its nearly impossible for anyone to tell you what type of screw to use without knowing how you're attaching the purlins and gifts.
Can you post the drawings submitted for your building permit?
 
No permits required here for a pole barn. This was an already existing building that was taken down and is being put back up on my property with new lumber. The only change is it was originally built with nails and I want to use screws. Pole barns are done all the time with no exterior walls or girts and have no issues with falling over, but yes there will be bracing in the walls and trusses, I know what I'm doing in that respect. I've just never used screws, always nails.
 
It's basically this, but with s concrete floor, and side walls. This is not a pic of my shop
 

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Fl-Krawler said:
No permits required here for a pole barn. This was an already existing building that was taken down and is being put back up on my property with new lumber. The only change is it was originally built with nails and I want to use screws. Pole barns are done all the time with no exterior walls or girts and have no issues with falling over, but yes there will be bracing in the walls and trusses, I know what I'm doing in that respect. I've just never used screws, always nails.
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1713119484319.png
 
I prefer GRKs over simpson screws, but yeah, something like that. Make sure it's a structural screw, not a deck screw. Huge difference in the hardness of the fastener between the two.
 
Fl-Krawler said:
It's basically this, but with s concrete floor, and side walls. This is not a pic of my shop
Click to expand...
It looks like the perlins are in brackets.
Simpson SDS screws should work.
The picture looks like a building that is still under construction.
An open building is prone to uplift.
They're relying on the column buried in the ground for lateral support.
Also, I'm curious as to what part of the country doesn't require building permits.
 
jeepnmatt said:
Do you know where the roof trusses came from?
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I can tell you they came from Missouri but thats it. I bought a 130ft section of a building being taken down for $2k. I got the trusses, roof and wall sheet metal. I also got about 300 2x4's 20ft long but there condition is questionable so I'm going with new lumber

dun ploughin said:
It looks like the perlins are in brackets.
Simpson SDS screws should work.
The picture looks like a building that is still under construction.
An open building is prone to uplift.
They're relying on the column buried in the ground for lateral support.
Also, I'm curious as to what part of the country doesn't require building permits.
Click to expand...
My trusses have welded on single side brackets with holes in them for nails to attach the purlins. I want to use screws but I'm seriously starting to lean towards 1/4-20 bolts grade 5 bolts and add another set of brackets to the truss to essentially sandwhich the purlin into the bracket, I can buy the bolts by the pound for roughly 1/4 the cost of 1/4" structural screws. Currently the trusses attach the purlins with (5) 16d nails. I'm in middle Tennessee. On a pole barn a permit is only required if its within city limits. The county doesn't seem to give a shit. I was told it had something to do with my property being larger than 15ac, unrestricted and considered ag land. There are lots of places in this country still where the government doesnt have to control every aspect of your life
 
Fl-Krawler said:
I can tell you they came from Missouri but thats it. I bought a 130ft section of a building being taken down for $2k. I got the trusses, roof and wall sheet metal. I also got about 300 2x4's 20ft long but there condition is questionable so I'm going with new lumber


My trusses have welded on single side brackets with holes in them for nails to attach the purlins. I want to use screws but I'm seriously starting to lean towards 1/4-20 bolts grade 5 bolts and add another set of brackets to the truss to essentially sandwhich the purlin into the bracket, I can buy the bolts by the pound for roughly 1/4 the cost of 1/4" structural screws. Currently the trusses attach the purlins with (5) 16d nails. I'm in middle Tennessee. On a pole barn a permit is only required if its within city limits. The county doesn't seem to give a shit. I was told it had something to do with my property being larger than 15ac, unrestricted and considered ag land. There are lots of places in this country still where the government doesnt have to control every aspect of your life
Click to expand...
So, you don't have to hide your still?
 
Fl-Krawler said:
I was told it had something to do with my property being larger than 15ac, unrestricted and considered ag land. There are lots of places in this country still where the government doesnt have to control every aspect of your life
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Basically, they feel that if it falls down it is your own stupid self that is going to have to deal with property or personal damage because you're far enough away from anything else.
 
Fl-Krawler said:
I can tell you they came from Missouri but thats it. I bought a 130ft section of a building being taken down for $2k. I got the trusses, roof and wall sheet metal. I also got about 300 2x4's 20ft long but there condition is questionable so I'm going with new lumber


My trusses have welded on single side brackets with holes in them for nails to attach the purlins. I want to use screws but I'm seriously starting to lean towards 1/4-20 bolts grade 5 bolts and add another set of brackets to the truss to essentially sandwhich the purlin into the bracket, I can buy the bolts by the pound for roughly 1/4 the cost of 1/4" structural screws. Currently the trusses attach the purlins with (5) 16d nails. I'm in middle Tennessee. On a pole barn a permit is only required if its within city limits. The county doesn't seem to give a shit. I was told it had something to do with my property being larger than 15ac, unrestricted and considered ag land. There are lots of places in this country still where the government doesnt have to control every aspect of your life
Click to expand...
Structural screws are rated and acceptable per code. That's the main reason they're used.
If there were 16d nails, Simpson also has #9 hanger screws, which are considerably less than 1/4" screws. Basically, the brackets are mechanical fasteners, like a joist hanger, etc. You'd be OK with the hanger screws and they're galvanized. #9x1-1/2 Simpson screws are $14/100.
 
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I would probably run with #8x 2-1/2 truss head exterior rated screws for the purlins and #8x3-1/2 for the girts (in truth I would use 3-1/2 16d nails here and 2.5" ring shanks up top and be done in a 1/4 the time).
 
You could probably bang a bunch of hanger nails in with a positive placement nailer and save time and money.
 
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