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40/43 stickies vs 60 strength?

Chief Rocka

Chief Rocka

Red Skull Member
Joined
May 19, 2020
Member Number
155
Messages
132
Loc
East Coast
About to get new sneakers and wanted to get your opinion if my axles will survive moving up from a 40" DOT to a 40" or 43" sticky, is this a ticking bomb?

(40" MT baja pro xs to 40" or 43" MT baja pro x, approx $100 price difference for 4 tires).

Current specs:
6500lbs
KP60/D60U (all 35spl chromoly shafts and superjoints)
400hp LS
4.3 atlas
manual trans

TIA

1702493677294.png
 
I'll just say it now...








It'll never work, you need Meritor planetary axles :flipoff2:

I think a lot if it has to do with wheeling style. If you drive like the axles are glass you'd never break it. If you consider the throttle to be a toggle switch, either off or on, then you might be in trouble :flipoff2:

Any broken parts with the 40" DOT tires?
 
Agree on wheeling style.
I've been wheeling 42 reds and 43SX's on a KP60 front and 14b rear for 3 years. 4900# buggy, 400 hp LS, TH350 and 205/203. I have broken my short side front once (4340 Yukon), a short side Ouverson joint (basically same as Super Joint) and one 14bolt stock shaft.

You didn't say if you were HP or LP in the front. I broke a LP R&P early on and converted it to a D70 center section. I chipped a D70 tooth but don't know when. (found it during routine inspection) Maybe when I broke the axle shaft.

It's not the horsepower that will kill you. It's if you bind it up. Both of my front breaks were due to binding and trying to power through it. Now sure how I broke the rear but it was discovered while wheeling in big rocks.

I'll also say I broke more parts with similar axles in my YJ on 39 reds - but that was over the course of 10 years.
 
If LP dana 60, be prepared to break R&Ps. I broke 3 sets before swapping in a HP 60 diff and converting it to passenger drop.
 
I broke 14 bolt 300M shafts with 43s and a stock 5.3
It has more to deal with driving style than tire size.

But a rear 60 is asking for trouble, big time.
The front I'd be less concerned about if you're not a gas pedal retard.
 
I wouldnt be nearly as concerned with the 60 front as I would be the rear. Id look into a D70/14bolt. wheel it for now but be ready to upgrade.
 
I'm curious (as I've run a 35 spline rear 5.86 D60 since 2006)....why does everyone feel that's going to be so seemingly problematic? In the rear, It's LP, so it's driving on the drive side of the gears. It's 1.5" 35 spline, so decent size shafts. It's not a steering axle, so no compound angles on the joints to worry about. I run a full spool...so nothing really to go wrong there. I've only run 40" stickies with it, but have trapped it under some pretty bad undercuts and as long as you drive somewhat cautiously, I would think a front KP60 LP would break far sooner (I've broken 2 front shafts in that time) just due to driving on the coast side of the gear. Am I out in left field here?
 
I would say that it just sees added load due to all the weight being on the rear tires. I wouldn't be as concerned about the rear shafts as I would be the R&P. Sure, it's on the coast side compared to the front if its a LP but if your on a ledge the rear is seeing a lot more load.
 
Sean said:
I'm curious (as I've run a 35 spline rear 5.86 D60 since 2006)....why does everyone feel that's going to be so seemingly problematic? In the rear, It's LP, so it's driving on the drive side of the gears. It's 1.5" 35 spline, so decent size shafts. It's not a steering axle, so no compound angles on the joints to worry about. I run a full spool...so nothing really to go wrong there. I've only run 40" stickies with it, but have trapped it under some pretty bad undercuts and as long as you drive somewhat cautiously, I would think a front KP60 LP would break far sooner (I've broken 2 front shafts in that time) just due to driving on the coast side of the gear. Am I out in left field here?
Click to expand...
I think its more of the immediate "yuck" in our minds than anything. I'm bad about automatically assuming anybody with a rear drag axle 60 is stupid simply because everyone ive ever wheeled with that had that axle has destroyed the gear more times than I can count and went 14b which they should of done to begin with. But if you are technical, looking to save some weight over 14b or d70, have a lightish buggy, and stuck with cheap junkyard axles... It's honestly not all that bad of a choice. The guys I know that were killing them were all heavy rigs. As far as OP, if his stuff actually weighs 6500 lbs, its a miracle its not blowing apart all the time.
 
Wfoyota said:
I think its more of the immediate "yuck" in our minds than anything. I'm bad about automatically assuming anybody with a rear drag axle 60 is stupid simply because everyone ive ever wheeled with that had that axle has destroyed the gear more times than I can count and went 14b which they should of done to begin with. But if you are technical, looking to save some weight over 14b or d70, have a lightish buggy, and stuck with cheap junkyard axles... It's honestly not all that bad of a choice. The guys I know that were killing them were all heavy rigs. As far as OP, if his stuff actually weighs 6500 lbs, its a miracle its not blowing apart all the time.
Click to expand...
You're back east too IIRC....here in the dry, high traction west they hold up okay, but I agree....a $150 14B is a helluva lot better option for most people regardless of what part of the country unless you're overly concerned about ground clearance and don't want to shave the housing.

And yeah....I'm 4K# but with a 4 banger as well....which is why I'm sure mine's not broken (though I'm 265:1 with a manual in that car and have bound it up pretty badly on undercuts and have gotten lucky not to break it).
 
posford said:
I'll just say it now...








It'll never work, you need Meritor planetary axles :flipoff2:

I think a lot if it has to do with wheeling style. If you drive like the axles are glass you'd never break it. If you consider the throttle to be a toggle switch, either off or on, then you might be in trouble :flipoff2:

Any broken parts with the 40" DOT tires?
Click to expand...
:grinpimp:I tend be a little rough, but try to remember I'm the one who gets to fix my fuckups.

Broken parts: a few driveshafts until they got built with 0.25" wall tube, a couple stub shafts, and the rear axle shafts are just starting to twist splines. I was told they will not warranty until off by 4-5 splines.
 
Sean said:
You're back east too IIRC....here in the dry, high traction west they hold up okay, but I agree....a $150 14B is a helluva lot better option for most people regardless of what part of the country unless you're overly concerned about ground clearance and don't want to shave the housing.

And yeah....I'm 4K# but with a 4 banger as well....which is why I'm sure mine's not broken (though I'm 265:1 with a manual in that car and have bound it up pretty badly on undercuts and have gotten lucky not to break it).
Click to expand...
Yea man, I wouldnt be scared of one with a 4 banger. My old buggy was turbo 22r and it would of been a solid axle under it if I hadnt of already had a 14b laying around. It's all about perspective and most of us are guilty of being bias one way or another.
 
Wfoyota said:
Yea man, I wouldnt be scared of one with a 4 banger. My old buggy was turbo 22r and it would of been a solid axle under it if I hadnt of already had a 14b laying around. It's all about perspective and most of us are guilty of being bias one way or another.
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No one with a brain would argue the 35 spline 60 is in the same ballpark as a 14B.....so I'm totally with ya. :beer:
 
Chief Rocka said:
:grinpimp:I tend be a little rough, but try to remember I'm the one who gets to fix my fuckups.

Broken parts: a few driveshafts until they got built with 0.25" wall tube, a couple stub shafts, and the rear axle shafts are just starting to twist splines. I was told they will not warranty until off by 4-5 splines.
Click to expand...
So you've broken stubs and are twisting rear spline with current tires, and want to strain the axle more? See where I'm going with this?
 
white-rhino said:
You didn't say if you were HP or LP in the front. I broke a LP R&P early on and converted it to a D70 center section. I chipped a D70 tooth but don't know when. (found it during routine inspection) Maybe when I broke the axle shaft.

It's not the horsepower that will kill you. It's if you bind it up.
Click to expand...
My bad, it's a HP. I didn't start breaking DS's and shafts/joints until it went from 37 treps to 40 DOT 3 yrs ago.

Agree on horsepower not always the issue. I usually break when I allow it to hop or on a hard climb when tire get air and lands under power.
 
Depends on driving style then. HP60 with good shafts and joints will hold up well with either tire but you can expect some breakage with full on rockbouncer style driving if using 43's. Usually the R&P is stronger than a 35 sp shaft or rcv bell. The pinion can shear if you set both tires down on a ledge while spinning them hard. Front axle will hold up better than the rear 60 R&P which will become problematic with less aggressive use.
 
My J76 with my 43’s. Granted it's soft dirt but wheel speed and grabbing happens. We have cut in a bunch of hill climbs like this that are full throttle assaults. This is an old gravel pit and there are layers of clay that aren't forgiving at all.
 

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Well ill just throw this out there, if you are going w/ a 40 sxii sticky you probably wont break too much as they dont hook up very well!. I have them on my ls cj on 60s front and rear and no broken parts yet (manual trans). Wheeled same axles last year w/ 39 reds and didn't break anything either. Honestly you probably know better than any of us if it will work, as you know how you wheel!
 
Chief Rocka how much into day drinking are we talking......

and yes his rig really is that heavy.

I would think 43's might tear stuff up, but it they were sticky and that big I might really help your breakover clearances and approach....
 
Breaking is unavoidable, you just need to decide how much is going to be too much. You're already twisting shafts and breaking outers. How much is too much? Also if it's old seasoned parts they maybe already compromised.

I actually carry a spare R+P on long trips and haven't needed it. I break front shafts more than anything in my LP60.
 
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