3rd Gen 4Runner SAS

[YotaAtieToo]

I thought about doing that. I thought there was a reason I didn't want to try that for my specific case, I don't remember what it was though. I'm running bushings axle side, heims on uppers where they attach to the lower link and Duroflex joints on the cross member. Maybe it will be ok, I am sure it binds a tiny bit, but with the rear having no bumps it ends up putting the body sideways unloading the side of the front axle that should have weight over it, either way it looks to be doing much better now.

I just meant to do it for testing. You can always put it back obviously. Your ends sound fine. Like you said, radius arms bind.

Honestly, I'd look into some ome coils, they have a few options for stiffness.

That's exactly what I thought. I usually click the ebrake so it's a static drag on the drivetrain when climbing up stuff. I also use the two foot method. It is great to be honest, I am really digging the auto. I thought there was a deeper gear set for the t-case in there, I will have to look into that more, it would be nice to have a better crawl ratio. I find 1st is too low and 2nd is too fast right now if I'm just cruising down a rougher road. 1st can always be lower but is 2nd is lower that would be ideal. Thanks for the source :)!

No gear set that I'm aware of.

Sounds like you don't need a doubler if you're already happy with 1st. Only going slightly lower is going to be difficult, unless you want to spend a chunk on an atlas.

I like them, to be honest I don't really notice much of a difference at all going from 4.30s, maybe a little better off the line, but otherwise everything seemed the same. The only reason I regeared to 4.88's is because I could not source reverse cut 4.30s for the Dana 44 up front. Otherwise I wanted to stay with 4.30s. No 5.29s either, either 5.38 or 5.13 and that's too far off from 5.29s.

Many many people have ran 5.29s and 5.38s together for years with no issues. It's such a small difference, you're likely to see a bigger variance with different tire pressures. But, too late now.

 

[Toy4rnr]

I just meant to do it for testing. You can always put it back obviously. Your ends sound fine. Like you said, radius arms bind.

Honestly, I'd look into some ome coils, they have a few options for stiffness.



No gear set that I'm aware of.

Sounds like you don't need a doubler if you're already happy with 1st. Only going slightly lower is going to be difficult, unless you want to spend a chunk on an atlas.



Many many people have ran 5.29s and 5.38s together for years with no issues. It's such a small difference, you're likely to see a bigger variance with different tire pressures. But, too late now.

Got it, yeah I think it will kind of fix itself more once I limit what the rear end is doing. I really like the FJ80 rears, ride on them is good and the lift was perfect. If the bump stops don't get me there I'll look into OME. That was the route I was initially looking at but the FJ80s were way cheaper.

Nah 1st is great, I can slip the TC with the ebrake really well.

Interesting, I read that far apart might be an issue, maybe that was old af tech. But yeah too late now lmfao oh well. Thanks for the info.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Are the FJ80s soft like stock?

My problem is with 3 kids and camping gear, I get serious squat

Probably yota tech or t4r dorks. Guys were doing 5.29/5.38s in the late 90s early 2000s before you could make Toyota axles hold up.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Are the FJ80s soft like stock?

My problem is with 3 kids and camping gear, I get serious squat

Probably yota tech or t4r dorks. Guys were doing 5.29/5.38s in the late 90s early 2000s before you could make Toyota axles hold up.

I wouldn't say they're that soft. My stockers were mushy. These actually have some spring to them. Seems to be ok with a cooler, hilift, some llight camping gear and three adults in the rig. Haven't got it to squat yet lol.

Get? Or got hahahaha .

Likely, I lurked those for a while and PBB. Probably made a bad mental note of shit tech.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Made some drop brackets for these bumpstops I picked up and tossed them in the rear. Welded some plate to the top and bottom of the C-channel and drilled some holes. For the amount of lift I have I wanted a shorter bump stop and to make drop brackets myself to get them exactly where I wanted. My measurements were pretty close, no more folding in the mud flap flare flexing anymore :). Picture flexed out is from before bump stops lol.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Working on adding on shaft bumpstops today, long over due. Soft vise jaws do not work for gripping shafts I have come to find. Currently procuring aluminum ones so I can get that eyelet off since the shaft just spins in the soft Jaws...

 

[Toy4rnr]

I was able to get the eyelet off with alot of heat, problem is I left the heim in there thinking I wouldn't need as much heat as I did. I wasn't heating close to the heim, but the eyelet got hot enough it smoked whatever was inside the heim. I am guessing it had little wipers and roller bearings? Guess I will have to buy a new eyelet heim if its toast. Those things are in there, had to use a socket and a BFH to get it out, vise wouldn't budge it.

Edit: Looks like they use a Teflon liner for the ball. Seemed weird there would be anymore than just a ball in a heim, but I don't have much experience with them. So guess I melted the Teflon. New heim will arrive Tuesday. Learned my lesson lol.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Got the front bumpstops finished up so before these rear brackets got anymore deformed I welded up some Eimkeith gussets. Originally I wanted to F150 tank swap and do a single triangulated 4 link rear with the Ruffstuff kit, but there is alot that goes into figuring out a 4 link so this will be a stop gap for now. F150 tank swap will be after my Addicted Offroad bumpers arrive.

 

[Cryptictoy]

When I used to rebuild snowmobile shocks the fox had green loctite on the shafts eyelets . If I remember correctly it was almost 500 deg to soften the loctite. Some were worse than others . If you need a tool and can't find one , and get your hands on a block of aluminum drill it to the shaft size and cut in half and you will have a clamp for the vise.

 

[Toy4rnr]

When I used to rebuild snowmobile shocks the fox had green loctite on the shafts eyelets . If I remember correctly it was almost 500 deg to soften the loctite. Some were worse than others . If you need a tool and can't find one , and get your hands on a block of aluminum drill it to the shaft size and cut in half and you will have a clamp for the vise.

Yeah I plan on doing that for next time. I was able to put a rubber strap in my vise and heat it enough to break them free but the aluminum block would have been much nicer. Couldn't find any locally over the weekend. The anodizing turned from black to brown I had to get them so hot. Oh well.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Went wheelin this last weekend, new bumpers can't get here fast enough, hit my radiator on something and over heated. Head gaskets are fine, caught it as it was getting hot. My buddy tugged me down the hill, no power anything (didn't want to start until it was cold) then another friend brought us 5 gallons of water, filled it up every few miles and drove it home. Threw a new rad in the next morning and went back out being more careful of what my front end was doing lol. Really enjoying those bumpstops up front, they are not rough at all.

 

[Roc Doc]

F150 tank swap will be after my Addicted Offroad bumpers arrive.

He makes good products. I think once you remove the rear bumper and receiver hitch the weight gain is only about 20lbs.

 

[Toy4rnr]

He makes good products. I think once you remove the rear bumper and receiver hitch the weight gain is only about 20lbs.

Good to know. Mine had the factory spare, it was haggard so I took it off. Receiver is still there, should be just about where it was with the spare then :). The front I got new lower springs for to compensate. His bumpers seem like really good quality, and they look great. At the halfway point now hopefully for build time haha.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

The front radiator hanging below the frame is so stupid on these trucks. Some guys swap to the 4cyl 2wd or something version that is tucked up, but some say it doesn't quite keep it cool in hot weather and ac.

Hopefully the new bumper will at least protect it.

 

[Toy4rnr]

The front radiator hanging below the frame is so stupid on these trucks. Some guys swap to the 4cyl 2wd or something version that is tucked up, but some say it doesn't quite keep it cool in hot weather and ac.

Hopefully the new bumper will at least protect it.

Yeah unfortunately the bumper sits flush with the frame so the rad still sticks down. Reason I want the bumper is I want it on the rig before fabbing a skid and welding it on. Just to ensure I don't interfere with mounting it. Rather just do it all at once and not have to redo anything. A new oem style one was readily available so I just went with it. I run a big flexalite cooler on the front for the transmission also and just bypass the radiator. Rig is always cool even on hot days with AC

 

[YotaAtieToo]

When I built my bumper, I cut out that cheasy ass crossmember that the stock skid plate bolts to and replaced with something heavier. Just an idea.

 

[Toy4rnr]

When I built my bumper, I cut out that cheasy ass crossmember that the stock skid plate bolts to and replaced with something heavier. Just an idea.

His bumper comes with a bolt on crossmember I am going to bolt on and weld to the frame. I saw his bumpers before the SAS and wanted them. Just took time to save the coin haha. I'll be sure to get pics of everything and add them here when I get them installed. Some day I'll learn to bend my own tube. The crossmembers are so thin on these rigs lol. Just need LRoR sliders next.

Regarding transfer cases. When the time comes, looks like a 5:1 Atlas will be around $3300 with an adapter for my A340F. What about the TG Verso driver drop conversion for the Toyota gear driven cases? I know they do well on the 22re's but not sure about strength on anything more, would be about $1000 cheaper with 4.7:1. Rather not have my transfer case be a weak point lol.

 

[rockota]

Build a small skid. Mine goes from the bottom of the Addicted bumper to the all-pro weld in crossmember (sits below/behind the radiator)

 

[Toy4rnr]

My bumpers showed up. Time to prep and paint when I find some time.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Got the rear painted up and mounted. Lots more clearance now. These bumpers are sweet! Time to put the new springs on the front then put the front one on and figure out sliders.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

Be sure you are OK with giving up stock low range. Personally I will never run a rig without a ~2:1 low for in between obstacles.

I'd do the nwf eco box with another chain case behind it in your rig.

 

[Toy4rnr]

Be sure you are OK with giving up stock low range. Personally I will never run a rig without a ~2:1 low for in between obstacles.

I'd do the nwf eco box with another chain case behind it in your rig.

You make a good point. Thanks :)

 

[YotaAtieToo]

You make a good point. Thanks :)

I'm not super savvy on all the newer chain drive stuff. But you can go to something newer(possibly stronger?) at the same time. I guess FJ cruiser cases are supposed to be the best

You could also go ham and go to a 205, but that's probably overkill.

 

[Toy4rnr]

I'm not super savvy on all the newer chain drive stuff. But you can go to something newer(possibly stronger?) at the same time. I guess FJ cruiser cases are supposed to be the best

You could also go ham and go to a 205, but that's probably overkill.

An Atlas would be pretty damn overkill too haha, but I would never have to worry about it lol. I don't really know shit about chain cases either, mostly familiar with the old gear driven toy cases. Think they're not much of an upgrade for the cost of a Verso driver drop one though from what I have gathered. That NWF box looks interesting, I need to look into it more though. I think regardless I am going to need a new t case if I go down this path.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

An Atlas would be pretty damn overkill too haha, but I would never have to worry about it lol. I don't really know shit about chain cases either, mostly familiar with the old gear driven toy cases. Think they're not much of an upgrade for the cost of a Verso driver drop one though from what I have gathered. That NWF box looks interesting, I need to look into it more though. I think regardless I am going to need a new t case if I go down this path.

I thought the verso was discontinued?

Not the way I would go at all, imo.

 

[Toy4rnr]

I thought the verso was discontinued?

Not the way I would go at all, imo.

I looked them up couple months ago, seems like there were still some around for sale, but ide just spend the extra for an Atlas at that price.

 

[TacoVio]

Whats up man! Wicked runner! Made this account after seeing your build haha. I'm thinking about going with the Dana 44 WFO Kit for my 2000 Tacoma with worn IFS. Sick of fixing shit after every trip. You are one of the very few examples I could come across. Like you, I want it to maintain a low center of gravity and ride height. Yours looks great and I was planning on around 4" up travel with worry of interference, but it seems you aren't having any issue with lower up travel which is awesome. I may be back periodically to pick your brain about various things here and there. But I was really wanting some more pictures of ride height and what its looking like right now on level ground etc. Also curious what your ride height numbers are looking like now? Thanks bud appreciate it! Pic of my pile for shits and gigs too

 

[Toy4rnr]

Whats up man! Wicked runner! Made this account after seeing your build haha. I'm thinking about going with the Dana 44 WFO Kit for my 2000 Tacoma with worn IFS. Sick of fixing shit after every trip. You are one of the very few examples I could come across. Like you, I want it to maintain a low center of gravity and ride height. Yours looks great and I was planning on around 4" up travel with worry of interference, but it seems you aren't having any issue with lower up travel which is awesome. I may be back periodically to pick your brain about various things here and there. But I was really wanting some more pictures of ride height and what its looking like right now on level ground etc. Also curious what your ride height numbers are looking like now? Thanks bud appreciate it! Pic of my pile for shits and gigs too

Nice truck! Yeah I can get you any numbers you want. My numbers will change around a bit, I am going from 200lb lower springs to 250s and throwing an Addicted Offroad bumper on the front, I am assuming I will gain a little height back with those without needing to dial in more preload. The 200s were soft, great for stock bumpers, but aftermarket I would go with 250s in the lowers. Last I measured my frame height I was at 21.5" under the driver door. About 8" down travel up front 2" up. I think ideally 3" up is would be the best without sacrificing low COG. You might be able to squeeze more out with some frame notching and mounting the WFO towers higher, but youll likely need to cut your fender well for any meaningful gain to clear the towers, then youll have to put a piece of square tube on top of your frame to weld the tower to or something. Anyways yeah, I can get some more pictures in the coming days, might end up being this weekend lol.

One thing I want to note is alot of people on other forums were like "2-3" up travel is garbage, youll be riding bumpstops the whole time etc etc etc". I don't really have too much of a problem with this even with 2" before bottoming out my bumpstops on the coilovers, but I don't rally down roads either, I crawl along in 1st or 2nd. There are times where it's a bit jarring though. But I'll take low COG and some jarring over all the ridiculously high SAS'd 3rd gens I see everywhere...

 

[Slander]

Catching up here but get the small 4cyl radiator that tucks up. I have one on my 3.4 and no issues keeping cool wheeling or driving in 90*+ heat with the AC at full blast, with a winch, skid and big ass power steering cooler all in front of my radiator on my 3.4.

2" of up travel does suck, because that's I what I have LOL! Spend the $$$ on air bumps, makes a ton of difference on and off trail. Worrying about breaking/bending something dropping off evrey ledge gets old real quick.

 

[TacoVio]

Nice truck! Yeah I can get you any numbers you want. My numbers will change around a bit, I am going from 200lb lower springs to 250s and throwing an Addicted Offroad bumper on the front, I am assuming I will gain a little height back with those without needing to dial in more preload. The 200s were soft, great for stock bumpers, but aftermarket I would go with 250s in the lowers. Last I measured my frame height I was at 21.5" under the driver door. About 8" down travel up front 2" up. I think ideally 3" up is would be the best without sacrificing low COG. You might be able to squeeze more out with some frame notching and mounting the WFO towers higher, but youll likely need to cut your fender well for any meaningful gain to clear the towers, then youll have to put a piece of square tube on top of your frame to weld the tower to or something. Anyways yeah, I can get some more pictures in the coming days, might end up being this weekend lol.

One thing I want to note is alot of people on other forums were like "2-3" up travel is garbage, youll be riding bumpstops the whole time etc etc etc". I don't really have too much of a problem with this even with 2" before bottoming out my bumpstops on the coilovers, but I don't rally down roads either, I crawl along in 1st or 2nd. There are times where it's a bit jarring though. But I'll take low COG and some jarring over all the ridiculously high SAS'd 3rd gens I see everywhere...

Hell yea. Yea I was just curious on your numbers for frame height for now. Also, was the bent track bar optional or standard with the kit?