3rd gen 4runner/1st gen tacoma radiator tech

YotaAtieToo

YotaAtieToo

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Just had a bunch of overdue work done on our 96 4runner (timing belt, valve cover gaskets, all hoses and belts ect) my mechanic mentioned a new radiator, but I had already spent about double what I expected and it looked OK to me.

So of course, the first time we head up to the mountains, the top tank cracks, luckily I caught it before we were in the middle of nowhere.

Anyway, I'd like to do an all aluminum one while I'm there and do an external trans cooler. There was a thread on another board that had a ton of different rads listed, I'll see if I can find the link.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/different-radiators-for-the-3-4.915025/

But here's what I found.

This is a direct replacement, but has mixed reviews on fitment.

https://www.championradiators.com/product/CC1998

If you want one that doesn't hang below the frame, this would be it. Again, mixed reviews on fitment.

https://www.championradiators.com/To...ator-1995-2004


I found these, I like that it doesn't have the internal trans cooler. But looks like a ~22" tall core, so that will hang below the frame.

https://koyoradracing.com/news.asp?id=184

So the application for the shorter radiator is a 2wd 2.4 Tacoma.

Here's is another shorty, haven't read any reviews on this brand.

https://www.carparts.com/details/To...-HSdUrAMzXut1YS-FgAaArdiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Another shorty

http://www.radiatorhelpline.com/2016/10/toyota-4runner-tacoma-pickup-all.html?m=1
 
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After doing some more reading, I doesn't sound like the cheap aluminum radiators are very reliable.

That leaves the koyo, which is almost $400 and hangs below the frame :homer:

I may just do a factory replacement for now, hopefully this thread helped someone :flipoff2:
 
OK, so I guess I\\\'ll just go stock replacement.... :rolleyes:??????\\n\\nProbably do this one \\n\\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW7YPBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TY29EbGJBKTK0?tag=91812054244-20\\n\\nThen for a trans cooler I was just thinking about this\\n\\nhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C3BBKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_j029Eb80D3XV2?tag=91812054244-20\\n\\n\\nBut I was also thinking about also running a heat sink cooler. From what I\\\'ve read they don\\\'t seem to be enough by themselves, but I think as an addition, it might be a good thing. Especially since they add capacity. Usually the trans will get warm in the snow, so I was thinking about trying to mount it where it might get snow blown onto it. Just not sure if single or dual pass is the way to go. \\n\\n\\nDidn\\\'t know they made one this big :laughing:\\n\\n\\n??????https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XONRBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8229EbX9626M8?tag=91812054244-20
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Oem is always good,

I really hate ebay

Denso is like $100 and basically oem

Mishimoto has a lifetime warranty
Click to expand...

I always try to use OE when possible. A radiator from the dealer is over $550 IF you can find one. Mishimoto is good shit.
 
Don't do any shorty single row ones, they won't cool the 3.4.
I did the Champion 3 row modified a factory shroud and a mechanical fan, I can get pictures later. And my temlz run.190 always. Period
.I did have to cut the hood support for the cap to clear. But it was early worth while
 
Stingray said:
Don't do any shorty single row ones, they won't cool the 3.4.
I did the Champion 3 row modified a factory shroud and a mechanical fan, I can get pictures later. And my temlz run.190 always. Period
.I did have to cut the hood support for the cap to clear. But it was early worth while
Click to expand...

It might have been your thread I was reading in another board.

I was planning on doing the same rad, but I just read a lot of people saying they had issues after about a year.

I don't need the shorty, was just trying to plan ahead.
 
I'm a couple years in and no issues, and you probably know the factory temp gauge is shit, it's there to fill up the dash, I run the torque app. thru an android based radio and have had great results. again. never see more than 190's ever.

oh ya that Toyota board banned me, some of my use of the English language wasn't suitable to a certain member.:lmao::lmao:
I also run the Champion cooler and an external trans cooler and my trans temps leaving the trans to the coolers never see's more than 180 and usually is 150 oe less on the freeway at 70 mph.

Hope some of that helps,


Edit:
i don't remember what was in the other thread, But I tried a small 4cyl manual trans TACO Radiator with an electric fan, then a KOYO, bothe with the same results, bad. it overheated heading to Big Bear and smoked a head gasket, so then I went to the 3 row Champion and the factory mechanical fan with a new fan clutch.
I did buy a new shroud and sectioned it with a HF Plastic welder it make it fit, all of it turned out clean other than the hood trim, ( that another board thought was the most hack thing ever)

:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

Again, trying to dig up pictures.
 
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I've been running a taco 3rz short radiator with stock fan and modified shroud for a couple years. I run the auto so I got a nice Derale cooler with fan. Seems to do fine, even with A/C on.

96 4runner, 3.4 auto.
 
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Stingray said:
I'm a couple years in and no issues, and you probably know the factory temp gauge is shit, it's there to fill up the dash, I run the torque app. thru an android based radio and have had great results. again. never see more than 190's ever.

oh ya that Toyota board banned me, some of my use of the English language wasn't suitable to a certain member.:lmao::lmao:
I also run the Champion cooler and an external trans cooler and my trans temps leaving the trans to the coolers never see's more than 180 and usually is 150 oe less on the freeway at 70 mph.

Hope some of that helps,


Edit:
i don't remember what was in the other thread, But I tried a small 4cyl manual trans TACO Radiator with an electric fan, then a KOYO, bothe with the same results, bad. it overheated heading to Big Bear and smoked a head gasket, so then I went to the 3 row Champion and the factory mechanical fan with a new fan clutch.
I did buy a new shroud and sectioned it with a HF Plastic welder it make it fit, all of it turned out clean other than the hood trim, ( that another board thought was the most hack thing ever)

:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2:

Again, trying to dig up pictures.
Click to expand...


yeah, the factory temp gauge doesn't seem to budge until you're already in the 240 range. :homer: I monitor temps with an Ultragauge
 
Aisin said:
I always try to use OE when possible. A radiator from the dealer is over $550 IF you can find one. Mishimoto is good shit.
Click to expand...

The $650 Mishimoto radiator in my JK cracked at the tank weld. Appears that it’s a very common problem. Offered me a discount (I’m not original purchaser - was PO) for just shy of $500 shipped.

Went “OEM” for about $200.
 
This is a picture of the radio/ gauges. it's cool right now cause it's been sitting awhile, but 190 is it. And if guys are having luck with the smaller radiators good, I just didn't at all.
closer.jpg
radio.jpg
 
Well I went with an orilley special :homer:​​​​​​

I read the Mishimoto and denso reviews on Amazon, neither were very reassuring. Mostly shipping damage issues, but either way shipping stuff back is a pain when ups and fed ex are 45 mins away
​​​​​​
I figured if they are all about the same price and are all OK for most, I'd rather get it from an actual store, that way if I have issues I can get a replacement the same day.
 
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IMG_20180414_121604495_HDR.jpg



I still have a shorty KOYO and the auto parts brand shorty, the large one went into my 2wd '02
 
For future search, I'm running a denso out of a 5lug 4cyl taco, smallest size they make, that I got off rock auto. Works great, runs cool crawling in 90*+ humid heat, on my 3.4, hacked up factory shroud, stock mech fan with the AC on full and most of it blocked by winch and bullshit like that. Would buy again.
 
Slander said:
For future search, I'm running a denso out of a 5lug 4cyl taco, smallest size they make, that I got off rock auto. Works great, runs cool crawling in 90*+ humid heat, on my 3.4, hacked up factory shroud, stock mech fan with the AC on full and most of it blocked by winch and bullshit like that. Would buy again.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it works well, is that a single row 3/4" core? how much does your rig weigh?

The two small ones in the picture are both that size, and in mine anything but flat level ground it tried to pin the temp gauge, ( a real gauge not the factory one) and that was with a 16" straight blade SPAL electric in a good aluminum shroud and then again with the factory fan and shroud but small radiator
 
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Stingray said:
Glad to hear it works well, is that a single row 3/4" core?

The two small ones in the picture are both that size, and in mine anything but flat level ground it tried to pin the temp gauge, ( a real gauge not the factory one) and that was with a 16" straight blade SPAL electric in a good aluminum shroud and then again with the factory fan and shroud but small radiator
Click to expand...

Yup single core, bone stock plastic tank, well close to it being denso.
 
Champion, with shroud trimmed down and plastic welded back together , factory fan and new clutch.



View from top


20200702_080450.jpg

20200702_080504.jpg





Fan Shroud trimmed down



20200702_080544.jpg
20200702_080557.jpg





Fitment of Radiator to spring hanger



20200702_080637.jpg
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You just running the in rad trans cooler?
Click to expand...



I'm running it to the Radiator first, then to a tube cooler in the grill, then back to the trans. the plan is to go to a single larger plate style at some point.

On the exit line out of the trans my temps run 150 on the freeway 180 in stop and go traffic, and mountain driving. wheeling in low 180-200. ( dual cases so it could be in any combination of gear reduction / multiplication.

I don't know what my temps are going back into the trans, If I added a second sending unit and a toggle switch I would be able to see how well my cooling actually is.


What are you running?

With a smaller Radiator an option might be to bypass the cooler and do just a remote one.
 
Stingray said:
I'm running it to the Radiator first, then to a tube cooler in the grill, then back to the trans. the plan is to go to a single larger plate style at some point.

On the exit line out of the trans my temps run 150 on the freeway 180 in stop and go traffic, and mountain driving. wheeling in low 180-200. ( dual cases so it could be in any combination of gear reduction / multiplication.

I don't know what my temps are going back into the trans, If I added a second sending unit and a toggle switch I would be able to see how well my cooling actually is.


What are you running?

With a smaller Radiator an option might be to bypass the cooler and do just a remote one.
Click to expand...

Just did the biggest tube and fin Hayden napa had 16x10 iirc.

I wanted to run a plate and fin, but we'll see how this does.

I don't have a gauge but I have smelled it getting hot when bombing around in snow. Usually the grill is blocked with snow, so My plan is to add a large dual pass heat sink style cooler in a place that gets packed in snow. Either inside the driver frame rail or more likely behind the skid plate under the oil pan. If I need to ill punch some ~2" holes in the skid plate.

I'm only running 33s so it should be plenty.
​​​​​​
 
Trans Cooler in the grill,


trans.jpg










and an 18" single pass finned cooler for the hydro assist.


hydro.jpg
 
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