39 ish Chevy

[spidr]

Do us a favor when you post pictures, click the images and insert them into the thread as "full size". Us half blind guys thank you for your cooperation.

Have one of your grandkids show you how to cast the thread to your Smart Tv. Just tell them it's for Porn so they don't think less of you

I'll try to do that next time. I haven't been on forums in forever and this new world is scary

 

[Twankie]

Cool project and good to see you back. Always enjoy out of the box thinking.

 

[[memphis]]

Have one of your grandkids show you how to cast the thread to your Smart Tv. Just tell them it's for Porn so they don't think less of you

I'll try to do that next time. I haven't been on forums in forever and this new world is scary

Glad to see you are still kicking spidr! Do you still have your K series chevy with the dual SM465 transmissions? That thing was awesome!

 

[spidr]

Glad to see you are still kicking spidr! Do you still have your K series chevy with the dual SM465 transmissions? That thing was awesome!

No. None of my old rigs made it out.
The guy who bought the K5 was a friend of mine and I got the cage back, but it was beyond saving, and honestly just a painful memory. I wanted to start fresh.
I'm working on a new rig, in conjunction with a friend of mine, that we hope to see a reality soon, hes got a tube dragon just itching to make some sparks.

There will be build threads at some point, we havent been in a rush but its getting close to time to start cutting

 

[spidr]

So how many people know much about blowers?
I've got a 671 on the tunnel ram I built in the other car. And I'm putting twin 453 blowers on the Olds in this car.
Little tech info if you dont know. These blowers are all refered to based on the Diesel engine size that they came on. 671 breaks down to an Inline 6 cylinder engine, that is 71 cubic inch displacement per cylinder.
Likewise a 453, would be an inline 4 cylinder engine, 53 cubic inches per cylinder.
Now when you see a 6v71 listed, Its a V6 diesel engine with 71 cubic inches per cylinder.
The inline versions are desirable as they mount with bolts perpendicular to the mounting surface where as a V series blower mounts with bolts 45 degrees to the mating surface and the forces are pulling diagonally, and therefor more difficult to mount
71 series engines all have roller bearings supporting the rotors and a self contained oiling system, where the 53 seriese blowes have precision holes in the end plates supporting the rotors, and use a pressurized oiling sytem from the engine.
71 series blowers have helical rotors and are highly efficient and are similar to the blowers everyone pictures on hotrods, where as the 53 series are straight rotors, less efficient, and much noisier. With all this information that is why 71 series blowers are much more sought after, and more expensive, and 53s are very cheap generally, since there is virtually no aftermarket support. In my case,I want the look, and the sound, and Im not building a race car., so effiency is low on my list, these will scream when its running. Random fact, the 144 Blowers that you can buy currently from the aftermarket, are based on the 453 blower, but with upgrades in the fashion of the 71s
All of that being said. I'm happy with my choice here, but it presents some issues. Without an aftermarket support, I need to build my own covers, the stamped tin are just not doing it for me, and I need to build snouts(drives)
Its pretty straight forward, bearings in a cylindrically housing, with a splined shaft on the inside, and a flange on the outside to mount a pulley.
I dont want to run the same 3: wide cogged belt I am on the other car, and serpentine doesnt have the look I want, so i'm tossing back and forth between triple V belts, which I think I would have to mount each blower seperatly since V belts dont like to bend backwards, and chain drive that would allow me to get more than 180 degrees of contact on the blower sprockets, and still almost 180 on the crank end.

Some pictures just because, but if anyone has any experience with drives, either mass produced or preferably custom made, I'd be interested to hear. I'll document the process for Youtube and such, because If I couldnt find what I need, I'd assume that other people cant as well.

 

[spidr]

Tore apart the blowers, and I was pleasantly surprised. They're in better shape inside, than outside, except for the rotor gouging an end plate. Nothing was seized, and the rotors felt tight. I should have my carbs here by next weekend and I'm already laying out the plan for my blower drives, and have my carb adapters programmed, I just need to verify the mounting flange.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I watched that video earlier. Good to hear the blower is still usable. Is welding up that end plate and resurfacing it possible or do you have to find a new one?

 

[spidr]

I've seen plates for around $100, but if I can scoop an extra blower for a couple hundred, I may just do that. Nothing to lose by filling it with weld, not like I could make it much worse, but that's a problem for tomorrow me. Up until yesterday I hadn't gotten either of them to spin, so I needed to make sure I wasn't completely up the creek

 

[csutton7]

Awesome, looking forward to seeing the progression.

 

[KrustyTJ]

Glad to see you made it over I watched your youtube on this build it's looking good.

 

[spidr]

Glad to see you made it over I watched your youtube on this build it's looking good.

I was bound to eventually, this place is like home. And thanks. I'm pretty stoked how its coming out

 

[spidr]

Starting a Youtube channel has been great for my Drive, my productivity. Pushes me to get out and work on it even when I dont feel like it.
My wheels should be here this week, along with my carbs and air bags.I need to get all my brackets sent out to get cut, I still program for my buddy and hes got a nice FastCut CNC table, and a rube dragon when I get around to cage work, so I try to not cut anything out by hand when I can avoid it. One of these days I'll even hook up my chinese Hundred dollar plasma I grabbed off amazon and see how well it works.
Either way, My suspension is pretty much laid out. Mildly double triangulated 4 link rear, Air Lift Dominator 2600lb bags, using Jeep JK links that where takeoffs for a lift kit. Front is a parallel 4 link using some more JK links that I need to extend, Long panhard, and cantilever bags, another set of 2600lb Dominators. Youd think this thing is an offroader, should be 12" or so total front travel, 10" rear, But I'm still gonna run push pull manual steering, with Manual drum brakes, and hydraulic shocks off a 30s International. Safety and performance is highly Overrated.

Pics for anyone that cant read. And yes, I'm gonna build a matching bagged trailer. Wife says I need to haul the harley past the gravel, and I have an extra pair of slot wheels, so obviously I didnt have a choice. Theres video on youtube if you want to see. I'm not gonna whore myself out every time I post Like that girl you knew in high school thats a "professional" Onlyfans model now.

 

[arse_sidewards]

You should be fine running V-belts with an idler on the back side as long as the idler diameter is decently large. It'll reduce service life but not enough to matter in this kind of application.

 

[spidr]

You should be fine running V-belts with an idler on the back side as long as the idler diameter is decently large. It'll reduce service life but not enough to matter in this kind of application.

I've been back and forth on it. I was pretty sure it will be fine too, but I need to get the snouts built and make up my mind between that and a cogged belt.

 

[spidr]

So this is my basic plan for my blower snouts. Anyone see anything wrong with this?
In theory it should be just like a pillow block/wheel hub, or basically anything with a pair of bearings. It's not seeing load pushing out, purely rotational, so sealed bearings should be fine and it won't need preload.
Just thinking out loud.

And I know I need burst panels, I'm actually leaning towards casting some ribbed aluminum plates, I can 3d print them and think cast would look cool, from there I'm assuming that 2 through bolts and springs with a rate say 25% higher than my target boost? Should be able to multiple boost by the square inch of the cast cover, say 10 si, acting on a 2 square inch panel, I would need springs that open at 20lbs of force? I know there's going to be some trial and error here, but Maybe someone reading this knows more than I do?

 

[ParadisePWoffrd]

Thanks man.
I'll look through my pics. Worst case I can pull stills from the video and show it. Its a beast. I've got everything here except my foot pedal to do a power conversion, will plug into 110 but its an atv winch motor geared down and variable speed. Hoping to have that sorted out next week so I can get onto the rest of the floor and firewall. Plus that means I can put it on a stand and get my english wheel back

Throw the videos up here too. I love the stills, but many of us likely dont know your YT channel.

I would love to see a video or write up on the roller/wheel and the power conversion.

We made a jig for the plasma table to cut holes in my box tube, and me and my kid spent a day building the frame. Its fishplated internally, and will look almost mandrel bent when the welds get dressed

any pics of the jig? I am guessing that all of the bent sections were cut on the table and welded together?

So that brings us pretty up to date. The grill is built from bits and pieces, and scrap, and some random tin folded with a tipping wheel. Headlights came from the 40 donor car and where fender mounted, I like the lines so I'm going to mount them floating, no hood, big fender dump hearders
Air ride will be all manually contolled, absolute minimum electronics possible.
I find I havent been taking a ton of pics. Most of it has been covered in video elsewhere. But if anyone wants to see something I missed, let me know I'll take more pics.

I would love to see the build progress on your "nice" car too, either in this thread or a new one. Great to see you back.

 

[spidr]

Throw the videos up here too. I love the stills, but many of us likely dont know your YT channel.

I would love to see a video or write up on the roller/wheel and the power conversion.


any pics of the jig? I am guessing that all of the bent sections were cut on the table and welded together?



I would love to see the build progress on your "nice" car too, either in this thread or a new one. Great to see you back.

The jig for cutting holes in the box tube is right at the beginning, and it shows start to finish of the frame. There's another video of the design process if you wanted to see that too. But I don't think this one missed anything putting it together.



The bead roller conversion I will film as it goes together, it's something that anyone could put together pretty easily. And I'll make a thread for the other car eventually. It's been stalled while I work on this one, but I'll get back to it, and I have a 51 chevy to do an AWD chassis swap too soon and I think a 30s chevy truck can. Plus the buggies were starting soon.
I've hit a happy place in life that I can get back to it. Been a while.

 

[spidr]

I cut a half sheet of link and bag brackets, including the cantilever stuff. Another pile of 1/8 which include the custom pedal box I designed and a "drift brake " which is being used on the front as a burnout brake, and has locking tabs so it will function as a hydraulic ebrake. And the carb adapter plates. Lots of parts to go together now, but I couldn't resist propping everything up. 15x8.5 slots with 27x8 slicks. Local shop has a sea can full of the tires. I bought 4 wheels, so I have enough for my trailer. Carbs are brand new never run DCOE webers. I've never been so excited about this car as I am staring at that ass.

 

[spidr]

Finally got to sit down and start tacking up parts and pieces. The rear axle is officially located with links.
Nothings getting welded out until it's on tires and rolling, my pallet frame table isn't perfect and measuring from gravel is far from ideal, but as far as I can tell I'm square behind what I can measure with a tape measure. I'll tweak it when it's on concrete before I weld it out if need be.
Next up the rear bags, they'll be straight forward on top of the axle, and then I can slide to the front. Trying to make this a roller asap after an issue with bylaw....ironically, my yard isn't that bad, I just have a neighbor with a God complex that hates fun.

 

[KrustyTJ]

Ya some neighbors bring the suck probably jealous with zero skills

 

[spidr]

Ya some neighbors bring the suck probably jealous with zero skills

They're a nuisance in the village. They basically wanted a scapegoat. They've been told to trim the bush that is encroaching on the road and claim they shouldn't have to because I'm building hotrods in the yard in my "unlikely storage container" with my "derelict motorcycles" in front of it.....my absolutely hideous derelict 2019 harley 🤣🤣🤣

 

[spidr]

Well. Me and the wife and my daughter got the bag brackets tacked up, and the bags in. Broke a few tacks, got it stuck on the fender cutout, basically everything that could go wrong did.
I've been told that my links are going to fail the first time I accelerate. Apparently only links above the axle control wrap. Not exactly the first time I've been told I'm an idiot, but here we are again. Its starting to look like I'll actually finish this thing. Maybe I'm turning over a new life. Maybe not. I've still got time to screw it all up, but for now. Pictures.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Air bags right below the back window.


Why the hell do "they" think the links are going to fail? Looks like you have plenty of separation vs tire height. Some people are fawkin stupid....

 

[spidr]

Air bags right below the back window.


Why the hell do "they" think the links are going to fail? Looks like you have plenty of separation vs tire height. Some people are fawkin stupid....

I kept trying to get a straight answer, one guy actually said "search Google and look at any production vehicle with coil springs and rwd and you'll see why" best I can gather is that the argument is that links below the center line do not control the torque load. The sincerely believed that it just won't do it.
I know that my lowers are now in compression under load, but they're strong enough to take it. Noone was even concerned about the fact that my already poor AS numbers would get infinitely worse with the links above the diff, just that they'd fold where they are

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Unless you somehow manage to dead hook the tires with a few thousand HP's I don't see how you are folding the links.

 

[spidr]

I agree. Car should be sub 2500lbs with 300hp. I think every part of it is Overbuilt already.

 

[spidr]

Since the wife's been laid up, I haven't gotten to work on the car, so I caught up on some of my programming ideas
I want to build my steering wheel, Designed a stainless frame that the spokes aren't welded, 3 welds within the circle portion that will be buried under cast epoxy resin. Finger grooves on the back, and a logo on the front, logo will be filled in with a differant color. The plan is the 3d print the front and back pieces of the wheel, as well as the shifter and parking brake handle, mold them with silicone, and pour resin. Ive got boxes of mixa powder and dyes, even glow in the dark stuff, so I can make them look however I want, or even clear. Most of the steering wheels just look cheesy, and take away a lot of a build.

 

[spidr]

I saw a post from someone making a mockup LS block on the Table and I'm surprised I never though of doing it. Summit and speedway sell them, but they're plain, and just don't looks that cool, this one I could use as a coffee table. I'm considering actually making these to sell, not sure yet, but at the least me and my buddies will have cool mockup blocks. Doesn't do me any good on this car, but I've got a 51 4 door that I plan to chassis swap and go awd with an LS so that I have all modern running gear, ac, traction control, I'll use the entire floor and firewall from the donor and the sheet metal and interior will just stay retro sleeper. But be 6-800hp turbocharged rally car

 

[spidr]

Well, a good friend of mine hit up a private junk yard, basically 40 years of hoarding parts and refusing to sell to anyone, and managed to come out with the bellhousing I needed, and enough transmissions that I can pick and choose what I want to run.
The 833 would be cool, but I'm not sure I really need OD, and with space at a premium, I'm leaning heavily towards one of the Saginaw 3 speeds. The unknown trans has a universal shifter on it, must have been a 3 on the tree car, and it looks like I'll be able to use it on the saginaw, turn down the bearing retainer to fit the bell, and possibly weld in some threaded bungs on the bell.
It's not exactly plug and play, but I think it will be worth it in the end , and the trannies spin free, no noise or binding inside. It was the last big peice of the puzzle I needed, so now there's nothing to really slow me down.
Tomorrow im hoping to start ripping out the auto, and prepping any parts i need to take to my buddies shop, get all my lathe work and plasma cutting lined up so when i come back everythinf just starts bolting up.

 

[spidr]

Had to turn down the bearing retainer to fit the bellhousing, but turns out the bolt pattern was right once I did. Lower bolts are threaded in the trans and in the bellhousing, I need to drill out the trans so that I can mount them separately.
The Saginaw had part of an aftermarket shifter welded to part of a stock bracket, no actual shift lever or rods, but good shift tabs, I took the shifter off the mystery 3 speed, straightened the rods, and adjusted everything, short of a couple new cotter pins and a support to the passenger side upper tailhousing bolt, it shifts like new, to be honest this is the smoothest and most solid shifting transmission ive ever had. Looked like hell on the outside, but inside its like glass.