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30x50 shop layout

RSWORDS said:
You can do that with pallet racking also
Click to expand...

Not really to that degree, this setup is fully spec'd to the bin size, ceiling height, width (it's slightly more than an 8 foot span), everything I could do to maximize every last inch.
 
Here is the building I'm most likely going with. 30x50 with 14' walls. I am going to move the 12' doors over another foot or two and add a foot in between them for elbow room

Only question is insulation. They offer the 2" Fiberglass for $7,800. I have a call in with a local company for an estimate in spray insulation. I will be getting climate control. Pros and cons of each? Or work shopvuilt in 1981 has the Fiberglass insulation. After 42 years its still there and in what I'd call decent shape for the age.

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spray foam quote I got was ~$2 sq ft.

I did 1.5" foam board.

Would do spray if I had a chance to do it again.
 
that's cheaper then what I just got quoted - just under 12k
 
RSWORDS said:
that's cheaper then what I just got quoted - just under 12k
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owner is my neighbor... so that's probably the good-guy price.

even at 12... if I was doing it again, I'd go that route. Buy once/Cry once.
 
RSWORDS said:
Here is the building I'm most likely going with. 30x50 with 14' walls. I am going to move the 12' doors over another foot or two and add a foot in between them for elbow room

Only question is insulation. They offer the 2" Fiberglass for $7,800. I have a call in with a local company for an estimate in spray insulation. I will be getting climate control. Pros and cons of each? Or work shopvuilt in 1981 has the Fiberglass insulation. After 42 years its still there and in what I'd call decent shape for the age.

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Click to expand...
What style structure are you going with?
 
rockota said:
owner is my neighbor... so that's probably the good-guy price.

even at 12... if I was doing it again, I'd go that route. Buy once/Cry once.
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A friend bought the equipment, sprayed his own shop, then sold it. I remember him saying never again lol. I reached out to him to see if it was that bad to DIY
 
$9500 for 2" closed cell in my 30x40x12 last summer/fall. Full self-contained trailer, 2 partial days.

Talked about getting technique down to be efficient and even texture. Also have to watch the surface temp as the sun heats it up to keep the reaction within parameters.

Really takes the edge off temp wise and gives the building a much more solid/quiet feel.
 
windows are nice
they are also nice for the thieves to figure out if they want to steal your shit

I ended up going without


looks like it is going to be a nice building
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
windows are nice
they are also nice for the thieves to figure out if they want to steal your shit

I ended up going without


looks like it is going to be a nice building
Click to expand...

I'll probably eat these words....


Not a concern.


I leave the key in my truck, boat, dirt bikes etc. He'll we don't lock the house and if I ever came home and the doors where locked I'd be fucked because I have no clue where a key is.
 
SomeGuyFromOlympia said:
windows are nice
they are also nice for the thieves to figure out if they want to steal your shit

I ended up going without


looks like it is going to be a nice building
Click to expand...

Agree with this. Exact reason I excluded them from mine.


And I really wish I had put the windows in. Hard to beat natural light.
 
I've got that 2" insulation they installed as the building was going up. I don't think it really does much if anything. If I did it again, I'd go spray on. Seems like it makes a better barrier.

One thing I want to do is to add a fan with powered louvers at each end of the shop as high as I can get them. That's really the only way to get the hot air out in the summer.

I've got one window in the shop, right next to the man door. That corner has 1000 times more spider/cobwebs and flying things around it than anywhere else in the shop, just because of the window. Not saying windows are bad, mine isn't pointed anywhere useful, so because of that, I do wish I didn't have it.
 
^^^^ I do hate the flys and cobwebs that come with windows.

I think if you put a fan on the opposite wall of your window you would see a good improvement.

In my shop the 2 inch insulation made a huge diffference. I am trying to add another layer of it though. Gets very cold in the rust belt in the winter and I try to keep the shop around 50 all winter.
 
RSWORDS said:
I'll probably eat these words....


Not a concern.


I leave the key in my truck, boat, dirt bikes etc. He'll we don't lock the house and if I ever came home and the doors where locked I'd be fucked because I have no clue where a key is.
Click to expand...
We had a house like this as a kid
lived there for 8 years, not a single person in the family ever owned a key:laughing:
 
I have no windows in my 30x60 barn with 14' walls. If I were to do it again, I'd put windows up high to let in light but not for people to easily look in. I partly didn't put windows in because it ruined my budget, and partly because if I did normal windows I was afraid they'd have equipment in front of them.
 
JohnnyJ said:
I have no windows in my 30x60 barn with 14' walls. If I were to do it again, I'd put windows up high to let in light but not for people to easily look in. I partly didn't put windows in because it ruined my budget, and partly because if I did normal windows I was afraid they'd have equipment in front of them.
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High windows for light is the way to go. I didn't think about orientation and exposures, my windows are north facing and don't get enough light.

Spray foam insulation for sure. The family ranch has a shop/barn, we sprayed foamed the shop and used batting/boards in the barn, there's easily a 10-20* difference between the two buildings.
 
Pulled the trigger. Should start clearing land in the next month or so. Final design. I made the 1st bay drive through. 14' walls and all 12x12 door. Also will have a man door next the the door in the rear i stead of that window.

looking at being right at 50k all in including elec and a lift.

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We have a 40x30 setup similar to that (roof pitched the 40' direction, 2' of clear "tin" at the top of the walls and the building ends at the walk door).
I have a 2 post lift in the non-drive through bay and 48" deep pallet racking along the back wall and the wall by the wall door.
There is enough space to pull a ECSB F350 in and walk around it.
Need to go through and clean things out again so we can park the tractors inside for the winter.

Aaron Z
 
Doors on the long wall 1000000%. I've rented shops that should have been able to fit 2 sideways BUT there is always stuff along the walls and it never worked out as good. My current shop is 30 x 80 and only had 1 10x10 door on middle of the side wall and it works but would be much much better with 2 doors. I want to put another door on the end wall so I can pull 1 vehicle in and load/unload metal since it's near my plasmacam and sheet metal storage area.

Also another thing is the building dimensions are OUTSIDE so subtract wall thickness to have inside dimensions. My old shop was 50 x 80 because the wall purlins and such were 7" thick so I lost over a ft on the inside dimensions
 
Too many post to quote so I'll just write a bunch of comments.
The insulation you buy with these buildings is only R-14 at best.
Its also encapsulated in white vinyl, it has a short life span in the South because of the heat.
It provides NO vapor barrier.
It provides NO solid thermal barrier

We remove this material and foam the building easily twice a month because they fail.

Spray foam-
2" of Closed Cell is all you need - Don't let anyone sell you more
2" is also only R-14 BUT
Its a solid vapor and thermal barrier. Its non permeable.

Things to be aware of with foam-
Do NOT let anyone sell you Open Cell- its not to be sprayed directly to a metal substrate per every single manufacturer.
Yes, I'm aware that people do it and get away with it for awhile. I've also see plenty of it fail.
Make sure they can show you the certifications for the foam.
If theres an issue with the foam, my manufactures will come take core samples and tell me if its their product of my application. Either way, we both have insurance
Guys are buying foam over the southern boarder that lately is from Turkey and Croatia

I'm sure theres more.

Prices -
In our area we get 3.75-8.00 for 2" of closed cell foam. A new metal building like this is 4.25 all day long.
Almost the same cost for Open Cell, its a little cheaper but not a whole lot.

Someone said they got a quote of 2.00 sqft, theres a lot of red flags there and I'd try and figure out how they are so cheap. My material costs are 1.60 a sqft
 
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Late to the party, but yea I'd go closed cell foam before doing 2" glass even if it was 4x the cost. ESPECIALLY if you're gonna HVAC it.

The 2" glass is better than nothing. It will make a mildly noticeable difference compared to zero insulation. 2-3" closed cell will make it like a new home. The difference is huge.
 
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