What's new
By:
Filters

3/4 or 1 ton "ecoboost"

JR4X said:
My 4 speed auto has one overdrive. The 5 speed and 6 speed automatics have two overdrives which would be nice. Nice that is your putting out enough horsepower to make use of them. The 6.2 truck I’ve got never uses 6th. It’s a useless gear as is. Running stuff through the gear calculator I think 4.56 axle gears would be perfect for stock tires.
Click to expand...
4.56 is what i put in my 6.2 truck

its weird how quick it shifts into the upper gears, at first dumbass me didn't think to reset the computers. no tuner just a tranny relearn and there are zero down sides. and i dont even notice the change any more. was stock 373

since i put the 4.56's in that truck now i plan to regear my 5.4 truck with 3.73. i only went up a little from stock tire size to what measures just under 34" and i'm thinking either 4.88 or 5.13s. even unloaded, although with a flatbed that weighs more than factory, it hardly ever shifts into over drive. with anything hooked up its usually in 3rd/ 4th on the highway.
 
For those of us who don't use trucks just for towing in Colorado :flipoff2: do the gears really help that much with a 6 speed? Ie: does it matter if you're in 5th instead of 4th or 4th instead of 3rd?

Or is the idea to split the gears?

I briefly thought about going with some 4.56s or something in the 2.7 because it's so tall in 6th, it would still be fine on the highway. But after pulling my ~4k lb steel deck over ~220 miles at 80 mph in 6th, then turning around and pulling a ~6k lb truck back in 5th at 65 mph/2100 rpm. I'm not sure I would really benifit that much from lower gears. I realize starting out would be better, but once it was moving, it was fine. The 150s also don't have the stupid giant 1st-2nd split like the 6r140s do though.

If I were pulling that type of load pretty much all the time, I can see thinking about gearing it to actually use 6th.



Seriously though, how stupid would a small shot of nitrous be just to give an na engine more air at high elevations? Not really adding power, just trying to get it closer to the power it has a sea level?
 
Starting out and the deep 1st gear with the 6 speed is the big attractive part over the 4 speed. 6th of is pretty close to 4spd od, isn't it?
 
Provience said:
Starting out and the deep 1st gear with the 6 speed is the big attractive part over the 4 speed. 6th of is pretty close to 4spd od, isn't it?
Click to expand...
We talking E4od to 6r140?

E4od/4r100

2.71
1.54
1
.71

6r140

3.97
2.32
1.52
1.15
(seriously no 1:1, wtf :homer:)
0.86
0.67

6r80

4.17
2.34
1.52
1.14
0.87
0.69

So looks like I'm full of shit on the 150 trans not having a big 1-2 split. It must be that the ecoboost really does just pull that much better at lower rpm.

And yes, you're right, the OD isn't that far off at all.

The biggest benefit is 2 OD's. Going from 6th to 5th isnt a big deal at all, same thing from 5th to 4th. Even the 5r110 had a noticeable gap.
 
I can't see the need to keep a 1:1 especially looking at the older 5 speeds, which tried to wedge an extra gear and weren't always used well.

Giving up on 1:1 should make the spread easier to maintain from a case internal space concern.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
For those of us who don't use trucks just for towing in Colorado :flipoff2: do the gears really help that much with a 6 speed? Ie: does it matter if you're in 5th instead of 4th or 4th instead of 3rd?

Or is the idea to split the gears?

I briefly thought about going with some 4.56s or something in the 2.7 because it's so tall in 6th, it would still be fine on the highway. But after pulling my ~4k lb steel deck over ~220 miles at 80 mph in 6th, then turning around and pulling a ~6k lb truck back in 5th at 65 mph/2100 rpm. I'm not sure I would really benifit that much from lower gears. I realize starting out would be better, but once it was moving, it was fine. The 150s also don't have the stupid giant 1st-2nd split like the 6r140s do though.

If I were pulling that type of load pretty much all the time, I can see thinking about gearing it to actually use 6th.



Seriously though, how stupid would a small shot of nitrous be just to give an na engine more air at high elevations? Not really adding power, just trying to get it closer to the power it has a sea level?
Click to expand...

I just don’t like the thought of nitrous on board in a dd. I think your going to use it up before you run out of mountain pass and it’s not something just any place can refill.

In your turbo truck you probably don’t need re geared. I know I sound like a broken record. I live at 7,000 ft elevation, drive over a 9,000 elevation pass then drop down 4500 ft where work is. Then reverse that to go home at the end of the day. Even with almost a 4:1 first gear and 3.73 axle gears my truck will go 30 in first gear. It will coast at 25 in first which is a major problem in the hills. I need a truck that can’t mechanically go that fast in first. Having 2nd the same as my first is now would help me a lot.

With the 6R 140, I don’t know how it’s even possible not to have a direct drive gear but they pulled it off. Weird transmission. 1:1 is 7th in the new 10 speeds.
 
What about just doing the ebay cheapo single turbo and make the rest of the kit, then spend the $$ to get it tuned properly. Basically cheap hardware expensive software to come out with a sub 2K towing setup. Hell some LS guys are having good luck with the oilless turbos though I'm not sure on long term reliability.
 
JR4X said:
I just don’t like the thought of nitrous on board in a dd. I think your going to use it up before you run out of mountain pass and it’s not something just any place can refill.
Click to expand...

Ya, probably pretty stupid.

JR4X said:
In your turbo truck you probably don’t need re geared. I know I sound like a broken record. I live at 7,000 ft elevation, drive over a 9,000 elevation pass then drop down 4500 ft where work is. Then reverse that to go home at the end of the day. Even with almost a 4:1 first gear and 3.73 axle gears my truck will go 30 in first gear. It will coast at 25 in first which is a major problem in the hills. I need a truck that can’t mechanically go that fast in first. Having 2nd the same as my first is now would help me a lot.
Click to expand...

I get it, everyone's situation is different. When I was in TX, people towed with everything. Literally saw a 90s civic with a trailer. In norcal, I was at ~2500 feet and often went to 5-7k feet and the roads were usually curvy. Turbos were night and day different. Every time I see someone say their V8 gas tows just as good as an older diesel it seems they aren't in an area that is flat or the mountains are smaller.

The one time I had that 6.2 at over 6k feet it was pathetic. I had to hit 1st gear to climb over a small hill.

Have you tried low range? :flipoff2:


JR4X said:
With the 6R 140, I don’t know how it’s even possible not to have a direct drive gear but they pulled it off. Weird transmission. 1:1 is 7th in the new 10 speeds.
Click to expand...

Ya, it seems like 1:1 is a freebie gear :laughing:
 
JR4X said:
My 4 speed auto has one overdrive. The 5 speed and 6 speed automatics have two overdrives which would be nice. Nice that is your putting out enough horsepower to make use of them. The 6.2 truck I’ve got never uses 6th. It’s a useless gear as is. Running stuff through the gear calculator I think 4.56 axle gears would be perfect for stock tires.
Click to expand...
My next ride is likely a 6.2 super duty....I had originally had a hard on for 4.30 trucks since my v10 excursion has 4.30's. But I agree that if you are gonna run say 33-35" tires or even 37's, find a 3.73 truck and gear it ito 4.56 or 4.88 and rock out. Shoot even stock e-lockers are so cheap im not sure I would go out of my way to hunt that down.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
For those of us who don't use trucks just for towing in Colorado :flipoff2: do the gears really help that much with a 6 speed? Ie: does it matter if you're in 5th instead of 4th or 4th instead of 3rd?

Or is the idea to split the gears?
Click to expand...
Depending on the transmission, some only lockup in certain gears, which makes getting into higher gears important. My last truck (Tundra) had a 6-speed auto but would only lock the TC in 4, 5 and 6 when towing...so pulling a hard hill in 3rd would blow trans temps out of the water. Getting it into the upper gears was pretty critical.
 
Spiritof76 said:
Depending on the transmission, some only lockup in certain gears, which makes getting into higher gears important. My last truck (Tundra) had a 6-speed auto but would only lock the TC in 4, 5 and 6 when towing...so pulling a hard hill in 3rd would blow trans temps out of the water. Getting it into the upper gears was pretty critical.
Click to expand...
I think my 5R110 only locks up in 3rd 4th and 5th
 
Soooo bumping this up as the NIssan thread got me looking at NISSAN TITAN XD. That thing has a 11k tow rating:eek:

Even the new eco boost, and other 1/2 tone trucks match what my excursion is rated for.

I tow at 10k. Buggy or camper are at that range. I love the ex but it will eventually get too rusty. My first instinct is a 2500 sub, but they stopped in 2013. Then the next choice is a 6.2 F350 as i said above^^^I have always been real trucks have 8 lugs guy:grinpimp:

But you can be into a F150/tundra/titan for way less.....Sure it might need bags or timbrens but are these a good option for ppl like me?
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
Sooo.....I shortened the quote, I hate big blocks of quoted text
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat. Got a 02' V10, 135k on it, runs great, crew 4x4 lariat. Put on headers, changed that y pipe, has a intake thing, run a tune from 5 star. Pulls respectively well compared to my PSDs of past.

I'm looking hard at a F150, 5.0 or eco, my CJ is mild, I don't wheel hard, I have a slide in camper I'm refurbing, tired of tents.

But no big camper or toyhauler anymore.

Just a car trailer with CJ7 or Scrambler, and potentially a pop top truck camper, or maybe just get a regular topper and camp in that to get off the ground.

Found a longbed, supercab 4x4 XL F150 with the 5.0. Can't find ecoboosts locally as easy.

Wondering if it's worth taking a small payment.

The F150 is a 19', tow capacity is same or very close as my 02' F250. :homer::laughing:
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
Soooo bumping this up as the NIssan thread got me looking at NISSAN TITAN XD. That thing has a 11k tow rating:eek:

Even the new eco boost, and other 1/2 tone trucks match what my excursion is rated for.

I tow at 10k. Buggy or camper are at that range. I love the ex but it will eventually get too rusty. My first instinct is a 2500 sub, but they stopped in 2013. Then the next choice is a 6.2 F350 as i said above^^^I have always been real trucks have 8 lugs guy:grinpimp:

But you can be into a F150/tundra/titan for way less.....Sure it might need bags or timbrens but are these a good option for ppl like me?
Click to expand...

How often are you towing 10k?

Ive towed more than that with ours that is not a large tow package or anything. It does fine but I fell like 10k often is right in the edge of new 1/2t territory. It will do it great, but I don't know the longevity of the truck with that kind of weight behind it.


blthomas said:
I'm in the same boat. Got a 02' V10, 135k on it, runs great, crew 4x4 lariat. Put on headers, changed that y pipe, has a intake thing, run a tune from 5 star. Pulls respectively well compared to my PSDs of past.

I'm looking hard at a F150, 5.0 or eco, my CJ is mild, I don't wheel hard, I have a slide in camper I'm refurbing, tired of tents.

But no big camper or toyhauler anymore.

Just a car trailer with CJ7 or Scrambler, and potentially a pop top truck camper, or maybe just get a regular topper and camp in that to get off the ground.

Found a longbed, supercab 4x4 XL F150 with the 5.0. Can't find ecoboosts locally as easy.

Wondering if it's worth taking a small payment.

The F150 is a 19', tow capacity is same or very close as my 02' F250. :homer::laughing:
Click to expand...

Any newer 1/2t will tow the shit out of a jeep on a trailer.



Also, you guys missed the point of this thread :flipoff2:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How often are you towing 10k?

Ive towed more than that with ours that is not a large tow package or anything. It does fine but I fell like 10k often is right in the edge of new 1/2t territory. It will do it great, but I don't know the longevity of the truck with that kind of weight behind it.




Any newer 1/2t will tow the shit out of a jeep on a trailer.



Also, you guys missed the point of this thread :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
this thread went sideways long ago :flipoff2:

I say do it, boost the big block and call it a day.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
How often are you towing 10k?

Ive towed more than that with ours that is not a large tow package or anything. It does fine but I fell like 10k often is right in the edge of new 1/2t territory. It will do it great, but I don't know the longevity of the truck with that kind of weight behind it.




Any newer 1/2t will tow the shit out of a jeep on a trailer.



Also, you guys missed the point of this thread :flipoff2:
Click to expand...
True, I absolutely was reading multi threads, saw PA's reply here and slid in. I've thought of doing low boost on my 6.8 2v.

Or buying a newer 6.2 rig to get a 6 speed trans, and doing low boost on that. Then reading eco and 5ohs pull really well.

We are planning lots of western trips, probably moving back out there somewhere (used to live in Tucson), I need to sort out my towing requirements.
 
I like the idea of a turbocharged gas engine in a 3/4 ton truck for towing if its not an everyday task. The hard pill to swallow is the mileage vs the cost of gas.

With no end in sight to clown world and $4/gal gas and $5/gal diesel, its hard to build anything that isnt either a dedicated tow rig or you just don't give a fuck about what it costs.

Where I see the issue in a low boost twin setup is a factory n/a engine isnt optimized for boost. At minimum you need a cam change and possibly a small reduction in compression.
 
HillbillyDeluxe said:
I like the idea of a turbocharged gas engine in a 3/4 ton truck for towing if its not an everyday task. The hard pill to swallow is the mileage vs the cost of gas.

With no end in sight to clown world and $4/gal gas and $5/gal diesel, its hard to build anything that isnt either a dedicated tow rig or you just don't give a fuck about what it costs.

Where I see the issue in a low boost twin setup is a factory n/a engine isnt optimized for boost. At minimum you need a cam change and possibly a small reduction in compression.
Click to expand...
You are 100% correct. If you can tune it though can’t you just retard the timing to keep from detonating it? Or does that just negate the performance gain?

There are supercharger kits for 6.2 Raptors and 6.2 Harley F150’s. But you have to run premium with those. Premium is only a few Pennie’s cheaper per gallon than Diesel is so there goes the savings
 
JR4X said:
You are 100% correct. If you can tune it though can’t you just retard the timing to keep from detonating it? Or does that just negate the performance gain?

There are supercharger kits for 6.2 Raptors and 6.2 Harley F150’s. But you have to run premium with those. Premium is only a few Pennie’s cheaper per gallon than Diesel is so there goes the savings
Click to expand...
until you need DEF or Injectors or fuel pumps or pistons or heads or oil changes or water pumps or....
 
Y'all ever used a custom tuning company to fix the torque management crap? I used 5star tunes on my '13 ecoboost, and it made a world of difference.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Not sure if this fits on here, but I just the hp/tq specs for the new ecoboost hybrid.


430 hp 570 ft lbs :eek:

That's way more hp and more tq than diesels were making up until about 04-05. :laughing:
Click to expand...
Did you read the fine print? lol

Says 430/570 is for with fully charged battery, gas engine + electric motor combined output and in ideal condition.
 
All I can say is stay away from the 3.5eb. My 2011 has had the drivers manifold replaced. Phasers and timing chain done, pass side manifold is pooched now. Always something to work on. However it does pull great. I went from a non tow pkg truck, added a full frame OE hitch, brake controller, 3.73's. It's lifted 5-6" 34s, full midrise cap(carpeted). Weighs in about 6.5-7k lbs super crew 6.5 box.

Tows great. Tons of low torque but is it worth the non stop repairs? The 16+ 3.5s have just as many problems, usually come from the factory with bad phasers.

I tow a 2500-3000 lb deckover now, 5.5k scout on top of that. Still gets up and goes.

But next truck will be a 3/4 ton for sure. No stupid lifts or big tires on it.
 
TrailTamer said:
Did you read the fine print? lol

Says 430/570 is for with fully charged battery, gas engine + electric motor combined output and in ideal condition.
Click to expand...

Oh I'm sure, I've wondered the same about the new diesels. I doubt there putting out that ~450/1000 at the top of a big grade pulling 25k lbs.
 
Winchested said:
All I can say is stay away from the 3.5eb. My 2011 has had the drivers manifold replaced. Phasers and timing chain done, pass side manifold is pooched now. Always something to work on. However it does pull great. I went from a non tow pkg truck, added a full frame OE hitch, brake controller, 3.73's. It's lifted 5-6" 34s, full midrise cap(carpeted). Weighs in about 6.5-7k lbs super crew 6.5 box.

Tows great. Tons of low torque but is it worth the non stop repairs? The 16+ 3.5s have just as many problems, usually come from the factory with bad phasers.

I tow a 2500-3000 lb deckover now, 5.5k scout on top of that. Still gets up and goes.

But next truck will be a 3/4 ton for sure. No stupid lifts or big tires on it.
Click to expand...

They really don't. If they were so bad, they wouldn't be the number one selling 1/2 engine.

I know the first few years had issues. But there are many that have made 200-250k without anything too major.
 
blthomas said:
True, I absolutely was reading multi threads, saw PA's reply here and slid in. I've thought of doing low boost on my 6.8 2v.

Or buying a newer 6.2 rig to get a 6 speed trans, and doing low boost on that. Then reading eco and 5ohs pull really well.

We are planning lots of western trips, probably moving back out there somewhere (used to live in Tucson), I need to sort out my towing requirements.
Click to expand...
At the current pricing/availability/demand you could just buy a truck still in the 5 year 100k warranty and sell it after all your travels.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
They really don't. If they were so bad, they wouldn't be the number one selling 1/2 engine.

I know the first few years had issues. But there are many that have made 200-250k without anything too major.
Click to expand...

The ones in the transit vans have worse manifold warping issues than the ones in the trucks due to heat.

I was a member of F150 ecoboost.net since 2013. The issues are prevalent. Most people are just too stupid and ignore the issues and dump the trucks on unsuspecting people. My truck only had 60k miles on it before the phasers failed.
 
Winchested said:
The ones in the transit vans have worse manifold warping issues than the ones in the trucks due to heat.

I was a member of F150 ecoboost.net since 2013. The issues are prevalent. Most people are just too stupid and ignore the issues and dump the trucks on unsuspecting people. My truck only had 60k miles on it before the phasers failed.
Click to expand...

Of course they're not without issues, ford has made 10 million of them :lmao:

I can't find any info that they are any less reliable than any other 1/2t except maybe the tundra. In fact most of what I have found shows them to be the opposite.

Again, I think most of the issues are with the first few years, as you'd expect.

Like always, I'm all ears to read about all these issues as I have a 99k mile 2.7.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Back Refresh