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2rz swap into 1982 Toyota, engine won't idle

bunks

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Joined
Jul 9, 2022
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5347
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Here's where im at with the swap. The engine came from a 1999 automatic with the dual coil ignition. When i purchased the truck, the previous owner placed the engine in the truck, and gave up when it came to the wiring. I got a good start on the wiring, the e5 plug from what i understand has 4 wires that need to be spliced (pin.s 2 constant 12v,11 which i believe is starter signal,12 switched 12v,22 switched 12v), and on the ik2 body plug has 5. (B/R large 10ga wire to a dedicated relay on a switch, w/r wire to switched 12v, brown to ground, b/wh to a starter signal from the ignition, and green/yellow is a cor wire which i put to ground because the fuel pump is on a separate circuit). Here's where it gets funky. The engine cranks healthy, will fire off and sputter for about a second, then die. it has backfired through the intake once or twice as well if i give it throttle when cranking. Ive checked the spark plugs and all were coated with fuel, cleaned the maf extensively, brand new upstream o2 sensor. Also, after it sputters and dies i hear air leaking through the intake. the neutral switch is bypassed on the trans plug and there is no emissions related equipment hooked up that you would find in the engine bay of a tacoma, egr crossover tube is still insalled along with the vaccum equipment needed for that. the engine is grounded in two spots, one on the back of the head and the block to the frame/body. What am i missing here? Any help would be appreciated, otherwise its getting a harness from ORS. Thanks
 
There is a good write-up on Marlin Crawler. It's pretty basic. The only time I had the problem you're describing was when I unknowingly had a 3.4 MAF. Check your voltage sources to make sure nothing is dropping out when cranking or in run position. The cor wire is meant to trigger the cor relay. Shorting it to ground probably isnt the best idea. Better to leave it floating. Edit, checking the manual, looks like green/yellow is a switched ground from the ecu. So no problem grounding it.
 
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So check Blk/R for power in the start and run position. That powers your coils and injectors. Blk/Y is 15amp efi fuse always hot.W/R is switched power 15amp efi fuse.Blk/W from 7.5 Sta fuse. Blk to hot on start. Make sure all Browns are grounded. What do you mean by the neutral wire is bypassed? If the ecu sees power on R/Blk, Pink or Vio/W it will assume its in gear. Blk/ Org supplies said power. Hope that helps a bit
 
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