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22re turbo build

GGascon88

GGascon88

Rot box nation
Joined
Nov 9, 2022
Member Number
5741
Messages
8
Loc
Sidney New York
I’m getting ready to to pull the old 22re and rebuild it and plan on turbo it what should I change and do while I’m rebuilding it allready plan on better head studs undecided on pistons and trying to find some one local to me to port and polish the head
 
Good springs and a good cam. Ceramic coat everything, piston tops, CC, exhuast ports, exhuast valve faces. Oversize valves. The turbo heads were open chamber like the 20R with dish pistons. Running a 22R head with the dish pistons will bump the CR. Not a deal breaker but something to be aware of. The stock computer and AFM suck balls.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
It's pretty common that you're ~30 year old head will be warped and/or cracked. A new head is really not that much, might make more sense to just order a performance head.
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Thank you the last owner did put a new head on it at one point but still 20 years ago probably any recommendations on a place to order one from?
 
bdkw1 said:
Good springs and a good cam. Ceramic coat everything, piston tops, CC, exhuast ports, exhuast valve faces. Oversize valves. The turbo heads were open chamber like the 20R with dish pistons. Running a 22R head with the dish pistons will bump the CR. Not a deal breaker but something to be aware of. The stock computer and AFM suck balls.
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Where would you order the valve parts from
 
GGascon88 said:
Where would you order the valve parts from
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There's a few options... LC Engineering is money, but will have everything you need in one place probably.

Valvetrain Kit

LC Engineering performance parts for Toyota pickups, Celicas, 4Runners, Tacomas, Tundras and Sequioas. Our parts are made in the USA.
www.lceperformance.com

Their turbo kit is stupid money, but you can see what parts they are pimping for their non-turbo block set up.

Pro Turbo Kit High Boost 22RE Non Turbo Block Only

Looking for a BOOST in power? LCEngineering has you covered with our premium quality turbo kits. Don't fall victim to the cheap kits on the internet they just don't last.
www.lceperformance.com
 
flecker said:
It's been a while since I assembled a 22R series engine... these guys were a good source WAAAAAAAY back though. Not sure of them now, but another option worth exploring.

D.O.A. Racing Engines - Toyota Racing Engines | D.O.A Racing Engines - Your Premium 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder Toyota Racing Engine Resource.

Let us put our engine knowledge and experience to work in your Toyota. At D.O.A. the focus is to yield the correct end result, reached by proper component
doaracingengines.com doaracingengines.com
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I think I’m gonna go with these guys possibly thinking of buying a hole block off them if shipping isint that bad I live in New York so shipping across the states sucks some times 😅
 
GGascon88 said:
I think I’m gonna go with these guys possibly thinking of buying a hole block off them if shipping isint that bad I live in New York so shipping across the states sucks some times 😅
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I have used some of their engine components in the past.... they have some decent stuff. I do want to give another shameless plug for LC engineering though. I have never bought an assembled engine from them before (I always assembled my own), but I have seen and worked on several. They have some top notch stuff. And I was lucky enough to visit their facility here in AZ some years back. Good outfit.

Whatever way you go those 2 are quality from my past experiences.
 
Well being from New York the snow wheeling season is to start soon I normally build everything but with that comes time and to be able to have the option to buy and just drop in for Allmost the same price as buying the parts and doing myself I’ve allways had a Toyota to play around with but the past years I’ve been into derby cars and after takeing a bad hit this past season doctors pretty much said I had to stop or I would be paralyzed in another year so I’ve sold all my derby stuff and going into wheeling more and camping so time to start sinking money into something I’m not gonna destroy in 30 mins and rebuild again 😅
 
GGascon88 said:
Well being from New York the snow wheeling season is to start soon I normally build everything but with that comes time and to be able to have the option to buy and just drop in for Allmost the same price as buying the parts and doing myself I’ve allways had a Toyota to play around with but the past years I’ve been into derby cars and after takeing a bad hit this past season doctors pretty much said I had to stop or I would be paralyzed in another year so I’ve sold all my derby stuff and going into wheeling more and camping so time to start sinking money into something I’m not gonna destroy in 30 mins and rebuild again 😅
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Copy that. Both outfits make excellent drop in options. Keep us posted mang! :beer:
 
Valves were bought from Ferrera. Springs and retainers were LC. cams were Elgin, Schneider or LC. I built a few. Pistons were JE. Rods were Crower. Total seal rings. Cometic head gasket. Drilled and tapped the block 1/2-20. Drilled out the head and cam towers. Used allen bolts to hold it all together. A out the only way to keep the head down at 20psi. Do not waste time or money on a CT20 turbo. They sucked even back then. There are much better options now. Same with the ECU.
 
Actually, I should have started with, don't waste money on a 22R. It's a fucking truck motor. It's designed for low to mid RPM usage and to be robust. The rod ratio sucks balls. The intake ports suck balls. Valve area sucks balls.

You would be way ahead of the game going to a newer 4 valve motor.
 
bdkw1 said:
Actually, I should have started with, don't waste money on a 22R. It's a fucking truck motor. It's designed for low to mid RPM usage and to be robust. The rod ratio sucks balls. The intake ports suck balls. Valve area sucks balls.

You would be way ahead of the game going to a newer 4 valve motor.
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I’m not going for that much boost 10 psi at the most and to give it just a little more umph when I’m towing my boat or going up hills on the high way and for snow wheeling
 
Ditto what bdkw1 said. Your effort would be better spent on a 2rz/3rz swap than trying to hot rod a 22R. Stock RZ will make the same power or more without the turbo headaches.
 
GGascon88 said:
I’m not going for that much boost 10 psi at the most and to give it just a little more umph when I’m towing my boat or going up hills on the high way and for snow wheeling
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Statement about the CT20 still stands.

Get a 2-1 FMU. then you will need to add a resistor from the temp sensor to the ECU to make it think it's cooler and ritchen it up a little. Step the AFM forward 1 tooth and all should be good.

The Schneider turbo cam is also worth the money.
 
bdkw1 said:
Statement about the CT20 still stands.

Get a 2-1 FMU. then you will need to add a resistor from the temp sensor to the ECU to make it think it's cooler and ritchen it up a little. Step the AFM forward 1 tooth and all should be good.

The Schneider turbo cam is also worth the money.
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Sweet thank you an
bdkw1 said:
Statement about the CT20 still stands.

Get a 2-1 FMU. then you will need to add a resistor from the temp sensor to the ECU to make it think it's cooler and ritchen it up a little. Step the AFM forward 1 tooth and all should be good.

The Schneider turbo cam is also worth the money.
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okay so how do I go about the resistor never done something like that
 
Been a long time, I forget what the value was. But you just cut the wire and solder the resistor in. Very hack by today's standards, but 25 years ago its what we had to work with.

We would also do the same to the MAP sensor as I think the boost cut was 12psi.
 
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