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2016 F150, anything to look for?

aczlan

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Fingerlakes region of NY
Possibly looking at a 2016 F150 tomorrow, 3.5L EcoBoost, 4x4 extended cab, 8' bed, 150k miles.
Any known failure points to look for?


Aaron Z
 
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Steve300xcw said:
Why is a f150 question in the tow rig section?
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Because an ecoboost will pull eleventy/million pounds according to some?

I’d look for a 3.5… since that’s the stock engine. A 3.6 implies over bore… :flipoff2:
 
Steve300xcw said:
Why is a f150 question in the tow rig section?
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Why not? It has a trailer hitch on it :lmao:

It's rated to tow the trailer that I plan to tow with it and it's unlikely to go very far off-road.

rockota said:
Because an ecoboost will pull eleventy/million pounds according to some?

I’d look for a 3.5… since that’s the stock engine. A 3.6 implies over bore… :flipoff2:
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Fat fingers on a phone keyboard will do that :homer:

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
Why not? It has a trailer hitch on it :lmao:
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20231105_175015.jpg
 
150k is at the threshold where I see seeping oil and/or coolant from turbos.Timing chain and cold start rattle. Trans lead frame issues. If the windshield is original, it leaks at the top corners
 
According to guys who actually work on them and aren't just spewing shit, it can be common to need a timing set at 150-200k. Should be around $3500 job to have a shop do it.

They seem to get really cheap at around that kind of miles, so it may be worth the risk if it's a nice truck.
 
Make sure you can hear it start after sitting overnight if the seller can't prove that the timing chains and phasers have been replaced, you'll hear it if they haven't. Listen for whistling under load (not normal turbo whistle) and look for broken exhaust manfiold studs, especially the farthest one to the rear. The coolant fittings for the turbos leak at higher miles, sometimes due to wear/corrosion to the hard lines themselves.

My other standard Ecoboom warning is to look for people doing dumb shit to it because turbos. Drilling a "weep hole" in the intercooler was a super sick mod that was popular with the FB group guys for a while, moreso on the 11-14 trucks but that's never stopped anyone, I've seen it on a Transit. If it's got the little spacers or other mods that make the bypass valves vent to the atmosphere to make the "pshhhh" noise when you let off there's about a 12/10 chance that it's had the dogshit knocked out of it on a daily basis and been poorly maintained.

Other than that it's standard used truck stuff, ball joints/brakes/fluids being up to date.
 
TrikeKid said:
Make sure you can hear it start after sitting overnight if the seller can't prove that the timing chains and phasers have been replaced, you'll hear it if they haven't. Listen for whistling under load (not normal turbo whistle) and look for broken exhaust manfiold studs, especially the farthest one to the rear. The coolant fittings for the turbos leak at higher miles, sometimes due to wear/corrosion to the hard lines themselves.

My other standard Ecoboom warning is to look for people doing dumb shit to it because turbos. Drilling a "weep hole" in the intercooler was a super sick mod that was popular with the FB group guys for a while, moreso on the 11-14 trucks but that's never stopped anyone, I've seen it on a Transit. If it's got the little spacers or other mods that make the bypass valves vent to the atmosphere to make the "pshhhh" noise when you let off there's about a 12/10 chance that it's had the dogshit knocked out of it on a daily basis and been poorly maintained.

Other than that it's standard used truck stuff, ball joints/brakes/fluids being up to date.
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This covers most of the eco F150 specific stuff I know of. I did exhaust manifolds on mine at 97K. Ford came out with a new manifold early 2022ish, I haven't heard of any of those failing like the older ones were just about guaranteed to do. The job is pretty easy after you spend a few bucks for all the related gaskets and fittings and lines.
 
TrikeKid said:
Make sure you can hear it start after sitting overnight if the seller can't prove that the timing chains and phasers have been replaced, you'll hear it if they haven't. Listen for whistling under load (not normal turbo whistle) and look for broken exhaust manfiold studs, especially the farthest one to the rear. The coolant fittings for the turbos leak at higher miles, sometimes due to wear/corrosion to the hard lines themselves.

My other standard Ecoboom warning is to look for people doing dumb shit to it because turbos. Drilling a "weep hole" in the intercooler was a super sick mod that was popular with the FB group guys for a while, moreso on the 11-14 trucks but that's never stopped anyone, I've seen it on a Transit. If it's got the little spacers or other mods that make the bypass valves vent to the atmosphere to make the "pshhhh" noise when you let off there's about a 12/10 chance that it's had the dogshit knocked out of it on a daily basis and been poorly maintained.

Other than that it's standard used truck stuff, ball joints/brakes/fluids being up to date.
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The weep hole on the 11-14 trucks was more so to combat Fords design of the charge air cooler (inlet and outlet on the top of the cooler) that allowed water to pool in the cooler in low boost but high moisture situations such as cruising on the highway in the rain. Then you hit the throttle, built boost and it gulps water causing a miss fire and you all of a sudden have no power and are on the verge of getting run over (been there, it’s a good time). Fords answer was to add a plastic shroud to half the charge air cooler to decrease its efficiency, so that way when you were towing intake air temps could rise decreasing power. I drilled the 1/16” weep hole and removed the shroud and never had an issue again on my 2013.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
According to guys who actually work on them and aren't just spewing shit, it can be common to need a timing set at 150-200k. Should be around $3500 job to have a shop do it.

They seem to get really cheap at around that kind of miles, so it may be worth the risk if it's a nice truck.
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Really cheap being under $10k, or?
Supposedly it has a CEL for a bad O2 sensor and needs a flex pipe.

So from this thread I should plan on it needing:
Timing chain kit - $3500 (shop)
O2 sensor - $20-150 (me)
Possibly a cat - $300-600 or $720-1440 (can't remember if NY only allows CA cats, or if I can use an EPA cat) (me)
Exhaust manifold gaskets - $800 (shop?)

If doing exhaust manifold gaskets (and I assume broken studs) I assume the turbos have to come off, is there anything that should be done when doing that?

Aaron Z
 
TrikeKid said:
Make sure you can hear it start after sitting overnight if the seller can't prove that the timing chains and phasers have been replaced, you'll hear it if they haven't.
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Yes, all Eco boosts will need phasers and timing chain/guides if it's not been replaced after 2022 (Or was it 2020 when the new design came out?),
After sitting overnight, start it, if it sounds like a diesel for the first 10 seconds, it needs it.
Other than that, I don't get the hate, the F-150s are a hell of a good platform.
I'd pick a 5.0 over a 3.5, but that is just me.
 
welndmn said:
Yes, all Eco boosts will need phasers and timing chain/guides if it's not been replaced after 2022 (Or was it 2020 when the new design came out?),
After sitting overnight, start it, if it sounds like a diesel for the first 10 seconds, it needs it.
Other than that, I don't get the hate, the F-150s are a hell of a good platform.
I'd pick a 5.0 over a 3.5, but that is just me.
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There's been a few revisions to the parts but I think I started seeing the updated service parts around 2020. New tensioner design anyway, the phasers look the same externally as far as I can remember. Seemed like I was doing them every month or two for a while and I'm not working at a Ford dealer,
 
welndmn said:
Yes, all Eco boosts will need phasers and timing chain/guides if it's not been replaced after 2022 (Or was it 2020 when the new design came out?),
After sitting overnight, start it, if it sounds like a diesel for the first 10 seconds, it needs it.
Other than that, I don't get the hate, the F-150s are a hell of a good platform.
I'd pick a 5.0 over a 3.5, but that is just me.
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Good to know, I would prefer a 5.0 as well, but it's close, it checks the other boxes (not a regular cab, has 4x4, rated to tow 10k, aluminum body) and doesn't appear to be beaten up too badly.

Aaron Z
 
Might be rated but the brakes suck to be honest when towing heavy.

Mines an 11. Done timing set with phasers. If they don't want you to do phasers the mechanic is a retard. (guy at work allowed his mech to only do timing chain and tensioner... Engine blew up 3 months later)

Ford has never made a good variable valve timing set up. These new engines all have the same issues the 5.4s of 30 years ago had. Timing phasers.

Exhaust man's are shit. Done both on my truck it's a pain in the ass job. Replace all jiffy tite quick connect fittings on the heads, block and turbos when doing it.

Bpdiesel or some name like that came out with an awesome swap kit. But wasn't avail when I needed it.

Other than that the turbos have never had issues on mine.

I've ran a catch can and drilled the weep hole.

Oh and the trans had major lead frame issues, and magically down shifts to first gear. (recall tuned out).

All in all mine has 108k Miles on it for a 2011 so not high mileage.

The second gen engines were a bit better then the earlier 11-14s. But still had phaser rattles from factory.

I've towed 9-10k with mine plenty. But you need a proper weight/ anti sway set up.

You can't just put a car hauler on and expect it to tow good.


Timbrens and an add a leaf were needed upgrades when towing that heavy. Oh and E rated tires.
 
Winchested said:
Bpdiesel or some name like that came out with an awesome swap kit. But wasn't avail when I needed it.



I've ran a catch can and drilled the weep hole.
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BD diesel, I looked at those but went with the latest OEM version, which has one more bolt and a couple are relocated. Plenty of info out there on these issues. Check out F150ecoboost.net for some decent info.

I run a catch can as well and it's amazing the nastiness that ends up in there.

5K oil changes seem to keep them happier from what I've read.
 
Thanks for the info everyone, I saw the ad 4 hours after it was posted and was 2nd in line (per the seller) and the first person bought it, back to looking (again).
The 10k trailer I have is setup for a WDH and has brakes on both axles, so I should be ok there.
For the miles this will see (2500/year?) and the probability of a BDL, I'd rather go with a 3/4 ton or 1 ton, but I am not the only one with a say in the matter :shaking:

Aaron Z
 
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aczlan said:
Thanks for the info everyone, I saw the ad 4 hours after it was posted and was 2nd in line (per the seller) and the first person bought it, back to looking (again).
The 10k trailer I have is setup for a WDH and has brakes on both axles, so I should be ok there.
For the miles this will see (2500/year?) and the probability of a BDL, I'd rather go with a 3/4 ton or 1 ton, but I am not the only one with a say in the matter :shaking:

Aaron Z
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I'd say you'd be good. Just tow within your means and give lots of braking room and have the WDH set up well. And stay within speed limits of 70 or so.

Worst issues I had was even with WDH and timbrens when it was wet going uphill I'd still blow out the rear end trying to get traction. (34" KO2's)

Keep looking I'm sure you'll find something decent. The fords are dropping in value huge in my opinion compared to the guy at work who's.engine blew up and ended up spending $90k cdn on a fucking dodge "classic" 1500...
 
Winchested said:
I'd say you'd be good. Just tow within your means and give lots of braking room and have the WDH set up well. And stay within speed limits of 70 or so.

Worst issues I had was even with WDH and timbrens when it was wet going uphill I'd still blow out the rear end trying to get traction. (34" KO2's)
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Good to know.
Winchested said:
Keep looking I'm sure you'll find something decent. The fords are dropping in value huge in my opinion compared to the guy at work who's.engine blew up and ended up spending $90k cdn on a fucking dodge "classic" 1500...
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I have seen that, a rusty 200k mile GMT800 suburban used to be $5-7k, now it's back to $2-5k (just as I am ready to sell ours :homer:)

Aaron Z
 
aczlan said:
For the miles this will see (2500/year?) and the probability of a BDL, I'd rather go with a 3/4 ton or 1 ton, but I am not the only one with a say in the matter :shaking:

Aaron Z
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Who/what is the argument for not getting a 3/4 or 1 ton?

If the thing is just going to be sitting around unless it is loaded then why not? 1/2 tons are a good compromise if you also have to commute in it.
 
mjlogan88 said:
Who/what is the argument for not getting a 3/4 or 1 ton?
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It's for my in-laws farm. They want a half ton "for fuel milage and cheaper parts" :homer:
I assume that lower ride height (easier to get in/out) is an unspoken part of it as well, but that's not something they will admit.

mjlogan88 said:
If the thing is just going to be sitting around unless it is loaded then why not?
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That is my argument, the 2002 F350 it's replacing drove about 10k miles in 4 years.
mjlogan88 said:
1/2 tons are a good compromise if you also have to commute in it.
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The only time I commute in it is when my car (or my wife's car) is down, we have family in town borrowing one of our cars or when I need to get something on the way to/from work.

Aaron Z
 
Doesn't sound like a 1/2 ton ecoboost is the right move. Any fuel savings you get will be offset with the list of needs you posted above.

6.2 F250 of similar vintage will probably be the same cost. Price of parts is negligible and you'll likely need fewer parts. I don't exactly love my 19 f250, hate how tall it is, would rather road trip a 1/2 ton but it is a tool and does the same job you're looking to do very well.
 
mjlogan88 said:
Doesn't sound like a 1/2 ton ecoboost is the right move. Any fuel savings you get will be offset with the list of needs you posted above.

6.2 F250 of similar vintage will probably be the same cost. Price of parts is negligible and you'll likely need fewer parts. I don't exactly love my 19 f250, hate how tall it is, would rather road trip a 1/2 ton but it is a tool and does the same job you're looking to do very well.
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Yep, I’d stay simpler for his job
 
mjlogan88 said:
Doesn't sound like a 1/2 ton ecoboost is the right move. Any fuel savings you get will be offset with the list of needs you posted above.

6.2 F250 of similar vintage will probably be the same cost. Price of parts is negligible and you'll likely need fewer parts. I don't exactly love my 19 f250, hate how tall it is, would rather road trip a 1/2 ton but it is a tool and does the same job you're looking to do very well.
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As I tell my wife, "you know that and I know that"

I have been pushing for a 3/4 ton or larger since we were looking for the Ford that we are now replacing.

To be honest, there were probably 5 times in the 4 years we owned it that we needed more capacity than a modern half ton has on paper (one of them was towing a 14k trailer with 10k of tractor on board, probably still more than the 2002 F350 SRW was "good for", but I got my tongue weight right, took it slow and left plenty of stopping distance), but that was also before I had the 10k trailer "roadworthy" and available.

Not that I have the 10k trailer, I would like to be able to use it if we need to go get something (picking up a piece of equipment, moving hay bales, getting another vehicle, dragging a vehicle home that died, etc), or have the flexibility to rent/borrow a 12-14k trailer if we need to move something heavier.

Aaron Z
 
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