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2007 C5500 Kodiak POS wont run now

Jag

Well-known member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
497
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73
Loc
Commieland
Ran great for about 8 hours Friday night, it went out Saturday morning about 10 and died on the side of the road about 3 and I had to have it towed in.

It has a dpf code p2463 and sometimes a p244b. Would the dpf stop it from running at all? All the things im reading just say reduced power mode.

It seemed like a fuel problem so i replaced the filter head and pre filled the new filter. Is the primer bulb supposed to be rock solid? I am able to get it to feel tight but im still able force it down leaning into it from above.

It has a long crank time and takes a few seconds before the fuel pressure hits 6200 and it will start then climb to 20k+ and then go down to below 6000 and generally die within a few seconds although a few times it ran for a couple minutes first. Static it seems be staying about 175 not cranking.


This is my first duramax experience, what metrics or sensors should i be keeping an eye on while cranking it?
Im using autoenginuity which doesnt cover the c5500 so ive got it set to a 3500 lmm with vin c, this seems to give me the most options to watch for.

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I have an '04, so LLY. In terms of the fuel head/pressure, I'd imagine it's the same.

Several years ago, it was losing prime and not staying primed enough on its own. I ended up rebuilding the pump assembly and that fixed it.

As I recall, the primer couldn't be pumped anymore when things are working correctly.

 
It ended up being a restriction in the exhaust, i cracked the connection between the downpipe and the cat and it started right up. Im assuming the dpf is actually just full and completely blocking the exhaust but i guess it could be the cat or a bunch of tennis balls stuck in the tailpipe.

This thing has 900 miles of exhaust pipe so this afternoon should be fun……
 
Covid strikes again, No dpf’s available.


Is it feasable to cut this one open at the weld, clean the filters and tig it back together?
 
At work the mechanics rigged up a way to pressure flush after filling dpf with simple green . Seems to work. They said they saw it on utube.
 
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Jag said:
Covid strikes again, No dpf’s available.


Is it feasable to cut this one open at the weld, clean the filters and tig it back together?
Click to expand...
I just drop them off at the DPF cleaner (Kirby Radiator).
They can clean FULLY plugged DPF's.
 
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There's a bunch of youtube videos on cleaning a DPF, some use a blow gun, some use a pressure washer, some fill them up with degreaser and wash them out with the hose.
 
Took it to dpf cleaning place this morning and they say its no good.

He seems to think he might be able to find a new one somewhere in the country so hes looking.


The delete option is really sounding best. Im assuming thats basically a through pipe with temp sensor bungs, Plugs for the pressure tubes and a software tune to ignore that the dpf isnt there?

Its a c5500 Kodiak so on most stuff so far i cant get a straight answer on anything, Its generally “ this will work on a 3500 but we cant guarentee it will on the Kodiak”.
 
Delete would be best, on a 07' I don't think you will need any of those sensors, just straight pipe.
Those were very easy to delete in tuning.
The EGR valve and cooler will be a disaster, you might think about getting rid of that too.
 
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CarterKraft said:
Delete would be best, on a 07' I don't think you will need any of those sensors, just straight pipe.
Those were very easy to delete in tuning.
The EGR valve and cooler will be a disaster, you might think about getting rid of that too.
Click to expand...


I went ahead and started it up with just the downpipe and nothing else hooked up.

Sitting here at idle theres a cel for the temp sensors but no dpf codes and no limp mode so far. I can temporarily live with the cel as long as it runs and gets back to work this weekend. I was thinking of cobbling together some pipe to make up for dpf being gone and getting the smell out the back

Someone i talked to mentioned pulling the speed sensor plug to bypass the computer in limp mode, Does this sound like it would work?
 
Shes back on the road.

Pressure washed the DPF

Cleaned up the ends of the rubber pressure lines and put new clamps

New gaskets from down pipe to the tailpipe

Drilled 2 broken exhaust studs and did all 12 bolts with new matching consistent hardware

Drilled/plasma cut/tapped the rear temp bung and a new sensor.

Today her numbers were looking alot better so i did a regen at idle using the button in the cab instead of a forced with AE and this was the results so far right after the regen.

Still have a few details to work out but it ran 75 down the freeway for 20 miles or so without a check engine or power down light.

Today was a good day. Thanks for the advice.
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