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2005 Silverado knock sensor BS

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My 2005 Silverado with 5.3 managed to go 160,00 miles on the original knock sensors. In the past 20,000 miles I have changed them out a total of 4 times now. The ones I put in Friday didn't even last 24 hours before the CEL came back on. I have used aftermarket parts and the last ones were AC Delco. Replace the pigtails every time and even tried the RTV dam around both sensors. I am growing tired of pulling that damned intake off all the time. What is going on with this truck?
 
Are the GM sensors still this part number, 213-3521 ? And you did not over tighten the sensors...and are sure there no pinging....
 
I replaced mine with cheap chinesium ones the first time I did it, they lasted a total of 13 miles before the cel came back on. Put delco ones in it after that wonderful experience and they’ve lasted about 10k now with no problems. I don’t put many miles on my truck so I’m not sure if I’ll have issues later down the road at similar mileage as you. I would put another set of delcos in and see what happens, could’ve just been a shitty set
 
Have you probed the wires on the harness side for continuity and voltage? I think*. It should read 5v when you back probe it.
 
I had my 02 and 2004 silverado throw code for knock sensors and I replaced them but still got codes. It was the harness on BOTH trucks.
 
Really watch the harness. When doing the original dyno development on a variety of Gm engines, fretting of the electrical terminals was very common(slightly different environment due to mounting strategy on the dyno). Look for a black fine dust in the connector specifically where it connects to the main engine harness. Clean all connection throughly with contact cleaner and apply dielectric grease. With my background, I often get tasked to fix pesky electrical gremlins often. The harness is generally where I start. Also ensure the mating face to the block is clean and the sensors are torqued correctly. I am not a huge fan of the gen iii knock sensor mounting strategy when done correctly they are accurate.

Tim
 
06 with 265k on it. rear knock sensor throwing codes. fresh battery, stopped the codes for while, rear sensor starts it shit again, wired the rear sensor to the front sensor at the harness plug. good to go for the last 5 months.
 
Another area to check, the main engine grounds (passenger side front cylinder head and rear drivers cylinder head). Take them off, wire brush the he’ll out of em and apply dielectric grease. Also ensure they are mounted on individual bosses on the cylinder heads. In many cases poor grounding of the ecm can cause fucked up operation of engine sensors and actuators.

are you guys noticing a reduction in power ie a reduction of spark? Going through the grounding and connectors on the engine control side will most likely help. If it persists, we can go into how to make the know control system less active via hp tuners.

In complete transparency, some issues can be super difficult to resolve on s8 Gm based controls. I was a mechanical development/calibration engineer for Gm and Chrysler for 12 years. Drive by wire with large throttle bodies and boost either pre or post throttle is currently kicking my ass on a 1200 hp stroked Yukon as we speak( throttle rationality).

Tim
 
Not trying to hi jack

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8UgNbPdjNgQ

402 ci with a heavily modified lsa blower, brodix heads, lunati crank train, Wisco pistons, etc. it’s built from a gen 3 iii 6.0 iron block. It will run low 11s with snow tires and 2 child seats( on a good day) Built it for a good friend of mine. The truck is located in Michigan, the looks you get going past a demon red eye(while running drag slicks) is awesome. Never run a 6l80 with this type of power, nuf said. It’s by no means an off-road rig.

Tim
 
Well if you’re gonna hi Jack.... that’s the way to do it!!!!
That thing is bad ass!!!:smokin::smokin::smokin:
 
Not trying to hi jack

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8UgNbPdjNgQ

402 ci with a heavily modified lsa blower, brodix heads, lunati crank train, Wisco pistons, etc. it’s built from a gen 3 iii 6.0 iron block. It will run low 11s with snow tires and 2 child seats( on a good day) Built it for a good friend of mine. The truck is located in Michigan, the looks you get going past a demon red eye(while running drag slicks) is awesome. Never run a 6l80 with this type of power, nuf said. It’s by no means an off-road rig.

Tim

Embeded:
 
Not trying to hi jack

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8UgNbPdjNgQ

402 ci with a heavily modified lsa blower, brodix heads, lunati crank train, Wisco pistons, etc. it’s built from a gen 3 iii 6.0 iron block. It will run low 11s with snow tires and 2 child seats( on a good day) Built it for a good friend of mine. The truck is located in Michigan, the looks you get going past a demon red eye(while running drag slicks) is awesome. Never run a 6l80 with this type of power, nuf said. It’s by no means an off-road rig.

Tim

That would make for a hell of a Momma mobile for her and the kiddos
 
My 2005 Silverado with 5.3 managed to go 160,00 miles on the original knock sensors. In the past 20,000 miles I have changed them out a total of 4 times now. The ones I put in Friday didn't even last 24 hours before the CEL came back on. I have used aftermarket parts and the last ones were AC Delco. Replace the pigtails every time and even tried the RTV dam around both sensors. I am growing tired of pulling that damned intake off all the time. What is going on with this truck?
Do you still have said 2005 Silverado?


I'm looking for width measurement at rear frame rail for a hitch receiver.
 
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