1st/2nd/3rd gen 3 link steering pics

[maveric]

I am tired of trashing front springs on my sas'd 87 xcab. 2 sets of ruf's and a pair of allpro springs. Purchased the Barnes 3 link kit and planning to run 12" fox 2.0 air shocks. Currently running 63's in the rear, and plan to keep them, as they work well. Installing the TG rear disco, and want the rigidity of the links for dig purposes.
I am running the Toyota housing, and currently have an old set of Allpro arms and high steer. Hydro assist with cylinder mounted off top of diff.

The upper link will need to be mounted off top of the diff, and lowers mounted approx the width of the spring perches. Using the calc, the numbers look like they will work. My issue is that I don't have any clearance currently between the drag link/pitman arm and the tie rod. At ride height (current with sagged out and bent springs) they are almost touching. I don't want to move the box UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. Will be keeping the steering box and assist. Do not want to go full hydro. Currently running fj80 ends on all steering.
I have to do something with the steering to accomplish a few things.
1) Create room for the panhard bar
2) create room between TR and pitman arm
3) move the move the cylinder to a different location (lower on the housing) for upper link mount

I am looking at custom flat arms (Front Range) and changing to heims vs TRE's. Possibly dropping the TR to below the arms to gain a bit more clearance.

I am looking for ideas on how to set up the panhard/steering/hydro assist. I searched online and here, but Google doesn't bring up as many pics as I expected.
Pics and specs would be helpful.
TIA

 

[chays2464]

My buddy did this on his 1st gen 4Runner. Ruff stuff brackets, 14” 2.5 foxes pulling 7.5” uptravel at 25” frame height on 40s

 

[Sluggy]

I used a y link steering with Chevy 1 ton tre's, 12" 2.0 emulsion coil overs, and pushed the box as far forward as possible. For brackets I used trail gear uppers and ruff stuff lowers. Panhard is bastardized TG lower and can't remember the upper. Nice thing about the y link is that my panhard/ draglink are the exact same length and angle. 1987 4runner 22 re

 

[maveric]

Thanks for the replies. What style upper shock mounts are you using? I have in internal cage, so no tube work outside other than sliders/bumpers. I am thinking bent tube (Similar to TG), and a removable brace between the 2 hoops.

Truck in question for reference.

 

[Sluggy]

I just bent a 1.75" .120 dom to match the body for how I mounted mine.

 

[maveric]

I just bent a 1.75" .120 dom to match the body for how I mounted mine.

That was what I was thinking. Looks easy enough. Do you have a cross tube between them? Or is it strong enough without?

 

[Sluggy]

I was always planning on putting a cross tube in it but never got around to doing it. I've wheeled it from rubicon to bombing it through Baja at high speed, no issues. Now I'm going to be installing a 3rz and will be doing the tube to match that motor. Also plate the shit out of your frame cause the panhard puts major stress in that area.

 

[maveric]

Mostly finished up the 3 link install this past Friday night about midnight, and then immediately loaded it up and headed to Moab for the first part of EJS.
Still waiting on my new arms to show up, but was able to make the existing arms work for a while.
Ended up doing things a little different than originally planned, but it worked flawlessly. Mounted the upper link on the drivers side tube. I had more room around the exhaust than between the bellhousing/slave cylinder and frame. This also freed up some space around the top of the diff, which gave a little room to work around the panhard bar mount. The only real issue I ran into was the tie rod hitting the diff. Since the new arms (custom drilled to realign the tie rod) haven't been delivered yet, ended up drilling the existing arms for heims, and using offset heims on the tie rod.

After a weekend of beating on the truck, both on the trail, and on the access roads to and from the trail, was happy to see it worked without any binding, and was a much smoother ride as well.

 

[YotaAtieToo]

I am looking at custom flat arms (Front Range) and changing to heims vs TRE's. Possibly dropping the TR to below the arms to gain a bit more clearance

Was going to say this is the way I would do it. No reason to have the tie rod as high as the typical high steer arms put it once the leafs are gone.