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1992 Rebuild

Bodj Built

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Joined
Oct 21, 2024
Member Number
8239
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Been lurking on here for a while but never made a thread.

Some background: My first truck in highschool was a 1995 pickup 2wd 22re. I always wanted to SAS it, but lacked the know how/fabrication skills. ended up learning about prerunners and got heavily into that area.

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Overall it was a very basic build, but it was my headstart into offroad fabrication. Since then I've had another 5th gen pickup (1989 regular cab 4x4, 22re, mostly stock), built a 2000 Tundra into a pretty capable prerunner, and most recently built my main toy - 2002 GMC Sonoma Crewcab, D35 TTB swap from an Explorer frame graft, D44 Bronco knuckles/hubs, backhalf, 4 link, full floater 9", caged front to rear, 6.0L LQ4/4L80e. All built by me in the driveway.

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Anyways, this thread is about the new project - a 1992 Extended Cab with the 3vze (boooo). The good news is that it has a Marlin Crawler double transfer case, 3 linked GM D44 front axle with 2.5" Kings, CTM U joints with chromoly shafts, I believe 4.56 gears front and rear, ARB air lockers front and rear, Warn 8000 winch, Marlin Crawler leaf springs and Bilsteins in the rear, extra 4.10 third members, spare axle shafts, half doors, and I got it all for a song. Some other bits are the bed that has been dovetailed, a stainless hot water tank w/ pump mounted under the bed (for camp showers), and bed cover thing with canvas top.

The truck hasn't left his sideyard in about 15 years, although he did start it up every few months, until about 10 months ago when it wouldn't start - he blamed the fuel pump.

Some friends helped tow it home (ignore the tie down job, it was only 3 miles of city streets) and get it up our driveway.

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Got it running (enough) with draining the gas, and new fuel pump and filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor. It would start every time, but stumbled hard when revving. Made it up the street and back into the driveway

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I was spraying carb cleaner to check for air leaks, to no avail. The CEL was blinking 41, so I replaced the throttle body with a spare that was included (rather than checking the TPS). Still didn't fix it, and still had the code.

More in the next post
 
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Brought my dad over who was a Chrysler tech while I was growing up. He brought his timing light and found it was 30* advanced and there was no more room on the distributor to adjust, so we pulled the plastic cover to verify timing marks on the gears were done correctly, which they were. The distributor was a gear off, so got that adjusted and found it wouldn't start at all unless sprayed with ether in the intake. Checked fuel again and it was disgusting. Turns out the tank was rusted through, and my new fuel pump was coated with some sort of mineral deposits. I replaced the tank with a new one last night, cleaned off the fuel pump, new fuel filter, and fresh gas. Now it will start without ether, but immediately dies. Giving it throttle doesn't keep it running, only revs it high for the brief second it is on, and then it dies. I believe the cold start injector is giving it fuel to start, but for some reason it is not continuing to get fuel. The CEL no longer blinks 41, but blinks rapidly, which I believe indicates there are no codes.

A friend recommended I replace the MAF, as that gives signal that the engine is running and to continue fueling. What are your thoughts on all of this? I know these behave weird when coolant is low, and I have it drained right now since the plastic cover is off. I don't think this would cause it to not stay running, though?

Thoughts? I'd like to get it running so I can redo some of the fab work and get to wheeling.
 
Had my wife crank it over last night and I opened the MAF door with my hand and it stayed running, so looks like bad MAF. Ordered a new one and it should be in at some point tomorrow.

ummmmm no help on the yota, but I want more deets on the the TTB S10:smokin::smokin::smokin:

Cage before starting any suspension work
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Remove OEM front frame section + suspension

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Slide in TTB frame front section from 1993 Ford Explorer
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Weld together, add 1/4" plate overlay, and then 1/8" overlay on top of that

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Cut, extend 4.5" per side, add caster (Frame graft was lowered about 2" from stock frame rails, giving me lift without having to adjust camber, still 8+" of up travel from ride height, and no interfering with my AC box
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Mas plating
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Combine explorer inner section to bronco outer section, increasing length 4.5" as well
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Build lower links
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Backhalf with 2x4x.250 rect tubing for mas weight bias
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Schreiner 31 spline 9" full floater, 4.56 gears (I drive it to the desert. 5.29s before were fun, but my mpg made it difficult funding trips), spool, tabzone truss, my own bracketry/link mounts, GM metric calipers

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Pulled LQ4/4L80e out of a chevy 2500, refreshed with oil/water pumps, lifters, knock sensor delete...
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Bigger dual pass radiator, added steam port, ditched trans and engine oil coolers in radiator. Added two aux trans coolers and one engine oil cooler. I never see the trans over 180*
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3" stainless exhaust from manifolds back. No room for headers, unfortunately. I'll eventually redo the crossover tube to be under the bell housing and smoothen out the sound. It sounds like an old school SBC right now.
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Plenty of torque to pull the pop up camper to the desert, or RTT for point to point trips like Mojave Rd., Mammoth, etc. No bypasses so relatively quiet and comfortable. I need a small AC condenser now and get some lines made, then I can have working AC again.

(we renovated the pop up and I lifted it like 8" and added nissan altima shocks lol). Tows freaking awesome.
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Got the new MAF installed and it's back to idling, but very rough again. Going to double check vacuum hoses, but at this point I think it's the injectors so I'll order a set and get the put on early next week.
 
Got the new MAF installed and it's back to idling, but very rough again. Going to double check vacuum hoses, but at this point I think it's the injectors so I'll order a set and get the put on early next week.
I recommend RC Fuel injection; they're out of Torrance but you can just mail them in. Get your factory Denso ones rebuilt if possible. Super fast turn around, and they'll give you the before and after bench printout. These injectors are very straightforward to bring back to life.
 
I recommend RC Fuel injection; they're out of Torrance but you can just mail them in. Get your factory Denso ones rebuilt if possible. Super fast turn around, and they'll give you the before and after bench printout. These injectors are very straightforward to bring back to life.

That is pretty close, but I have already ordered this kit. Should be here Monday or Tuesday.

 
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