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1991 FJ80 Build

Rugger99

Active member
Joined
Dec 4, 2020
Member Number
3110
Messages
29
Haven't posted on here in a long time. I have built a couple of Jeeps over the years and had fun with them but I am kinda over the hardcore crawling scene. Don't get me wrong, it's fun but when you live in Florida it's difficult to justify the associated expenses of having a dedicated crawler when the nearest trail / park is 6 + hours away. Sold the last Jeep last July and bought a FJ 80. It's a 1991 and has 346K miles on it. No rust, no frame issues, interior is in really good shape and overall is a very solid rig. The bad...3FE leaked more oil than a rusty oil tanker, had a stupid high idle (likely vacuum related) and definitely needed some TLC and basic maintenance as it appears the last owner(s) were like "maintenace...da fuk is that?"

When I picked it up, drove it 50 miles to the house while my buddy followed me with a trailer. The good, no grey,white, black or other colored exhaust during the entire trip. Also the transmission seemed to shift nice and smooth and there were no whining or grinding noises coming from the drivetrain.

After looking it over the next day, I put together a list of items that needed attention...yeah, large list. First and foremost, I decided to deal with the ticking time bomb that was the spare. It was a 33" Thornturd that still had the nipples intact but the sidewall was splitting and had a couple of bubbled out areas as well, not to mention it was so overinflated the tread rose to a peak, think ridgeline in appearance. Not wanting to die a horrible death, I decided to cut the valve stem and release the air from the tire before removing it from the tire carrier as I am certain any movement may have caused the tire to explode and kill me violently with a chunk of Thornturd to the forehead. Whew...crisis averted. Obviously, I am exaggerating but it was seriously a sketchy spare tire.

That weekend I went on a road trip to score some parts. Picked up a complete Full Float axle assembly, minus the third member for $50, a correct rear hatch (one on the vehicle was from a 93 - 97) without the stupid air deflector for $37 and some other misc. items.

I had a set of 38" SX's on 15" Allied beadlocks already and they looked good on it but since I was going to swap the semi float rear for a Full Float rear, they were sold to fund the new wheels and tires as the full float requires a 16" minimum wheel to clear the calipers. Ended up going with a set of 37 Toyo MT's on Sidetracked beadlocks.

To be continued at a later date....Pics for your viewing pleasure.
 

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It's too late now, but 15s will clear the rear with a little caliper grinding.
Yeah, that is true but the 17" wheel gives ya more tire options and the guy who wanted my 38's on the 15" Allieds paid my asking price, which was almost equal to the cost of three of my new beadlocks and tires so it was a no brainer.:smokin:
 
Front axle received a complete teardown and rebuild with all new seals, bearings and spindle nuts...seems a previous owner used a chisel and hammer to put the spindle nuts on the last time the axle was serviced :shaking:. Third was pulled and set aside in the parts pile and a new third from Marlin with 5.29's and an ARB was put in....RCV shafts as well. Rear axle was pulled out, third sent to Marlin for 5.29's and an ARB. Semi float housing went to a friend for parts (he has a 91 and 92 FJ80). While waiting for the third to get built, The full float housing was cleaned up, painted and new seals, bearings and hardware installed along with the third and RCV's. While the rear was waiting to go back under the FJ, I made new upper and lower control arms for the rear. A previous owner had taken a set of stock upper arms and cut them up, added sleeves, threaded rod and nuts and made them adjustable. Great idea just poor execution. Since the rear wheel was no longer centered in the wheel well due to the lift and the use of stock length control arms, I made the new ones 1.25" longer and that got the axle centered.
 

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Rear control arms ...existing versus new. If anyone wants the part numbers for the Johnny Joints, let me know and I will add it to the thread
 

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One thing I didn't like about the suspension setup that was on the Cruiser when I bought it was how the front radius arms were configured. The arms used a 4" drop down bracket at the frame mounting point, which kept the arm/bushings at the proper angle but created a huge hang up point. I could have gone with offset bushings in the factory arms or offset plates at the axle end but these just seemed to be bandaid type solutions. That being said, I picked up a set of the Delta arms on sale. These arms move the front axle forward an inch and are designed for the amount of lift the vehicle has, keeping the axle in the desired range for both the castor and the pinion angle. I also ordered a front bumper kit from Coastal Offroad that I will make a few changes to.
 

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Finished up all of the maintenance items and it was quite the list. Front bumper welded up and hung. Still have a high idle (1100rpm when it should be at the 650rpm range) and hopefully I will get that sorted out this weekend. A few pics since everyone likes photos :flipoff2:
 

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Did you end up with the 3” long or the 4” long arms?
 
"Did you end up with the 3” long or the 4” long arms?"

If you are referring to the front arms, they are 5" with a 1" forward extension, pushing the front axle forward one inch.

Was very happy with the coastal kit and like you, decided to do my own tube work as the coastal tube is a bit tallish.
 
"Did you end up with the 3” long or the 4” long arms?"

If you are referring to the front arms, they are 5" with a 1" forward extension, pushing the front axle forward one inch.

Was very happy with the coastal kit and like you, decided to do my own tube work as the coastal tube is a bit tallish.
Nice. I’ve been eyeing the Delta arms. Maybe in the next 12 months I’ll get some. I bet it drives and tracks way better.
 
Started on the rear bumper. Goal is to have a sturdy rear bumper with a built in receiver hitch that doesn't stick out a mile and also has some protection for the rear quarter panels. I will have the spare mounted inside so no need for a tire carrier.
 

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Had a few hours to work on the rear bumper today. Decided not to put a receiver hitch in as it is unlikely I will ever tow with it. Main section is tacked together, next I will get the sides done and then do a final weld. It fits very tight to the body and I have a ridiculous amount of clearance.
 

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Worked on the rear bumper some more today. Changed my mind and decided to do a receiver hitch. Figured I can use it as a recovery point and it's there if I do end up needing to tow. There will be a piece of tube that goes from the bottom of the side piece to the frame. I will also be removing the factory spare tire hanger and running two pieces of tube from the back of the bumper to the frame at a 45* angle...figured these will help solidify everything and definitely strengthen the rear bumper.
 

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Was able to get a couple of hours in today. Everything is tacked in and awaiting final weld. Very pleased with how it turned out. There will be 1.5" tube tie ins from the frame to the side "wings" which should definitely strengthen the sides. Another full day and it should be in place and painted. Pics for your viewing pleasure :flipoff2:.
 

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Finished up the rear bumper yesterday. Very happy with how it came out. Between the front bumper (Coastal Offroad kit ) and the rear bumper, I have under $900 wrapped up in the bumpers and I ended up with bumpers that are not bulky with unneeded weight...fawkin' win in my book :smokin:
 

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I dig that.

And it (for some reason) gives the illusion of being bobbed.
 
I dig that.

And it (for some reason) gives the illusion of being bobbed.
Thanks....and I never noticed it until you mentioned it but yeah, it does give the illusion of being bobbed.
 
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