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1970 C10 project

RunningProblem said:
My Google Fu must suck as well because all I can find is rear suspension upgrades and replacements. If you aren’t bagging it and body dropping it you’re apparently removing the whole rear suspension and upgrading it for pro touring.

So the answer is…it needs more triangulation (4 link). 🖕😃🖕
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pic8.jpg

He's trying to keep it simple and not make a project out of it.
 
M92PV4U said:
These trucks have a wierd rear suspension set up, it's a little more work than just moving spring perches.
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Actually, it's not. They have a truck arm suspension. The springs aren't even on the axle. They're easy to swap other axles in.

www.currieenterprises.com

CE-7000TA - GM C-10 Truck Trailing Arm Pads

GM C-10 Truck Trailing Arm Pads
www.currieenterprises.com www.currieenterprises.com

ms-for-early-c10-trucks-2020-11-02_09-18-00_619631.jpg


I did four link the rear of mine... but it's used a bit differently.
 

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Grendel said:
Actually, it's not. They have a truck arm suspension. The springs aren't even on the axle. They're easy to swap other axles in.

www.currieenterprises.com

CE-7000TA - GM C-10 Truck Trailing Arm Pads

GM C-10 Truck Trailing Arm Pads
www.currieenterprises.com www.currieenterprises.com

ms-for-early-c10-trucks-2020-11-02_09-18-00_619631.jpg
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Doesn't it have a panhard bar mount cast into the rear diff housing? While most would be comfortable welding that to steel, I don't think that they would be welding it to cast. Which I guess could be solved by adding a truss.
 
M92PV4U said:
pic8.jpg

He's trying to keep it simple and not make a project out of it.
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I can see how this would be annoying to do an axle swap on without doing a 4 link rear.


The drag link above is behind the axle. Probably mounts to the rear of the passenger side trailing arm.
 
RunningProblem said:
I can see how this would be annoying to do an axle swap on without doing a 4 link rear.


The drag link above is behind the axle. Probably mounts to the rear of the passenger side trailing arm.
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Panhards mount to the axle. 12b have a cast knub in the housing, d60 and eatons have a mount on the housing.

Ive never bothered to 4 link them. The only hard part about getting the axle off is if the ubolts have never been out. Otherwise is a easy job. Just have to think about them backwards cuase sprung under.
 
Drummer79 said:
Ok I have a question that's semi related to some suggestions from above about converting to disk brakes. Is there a way to convert to disk brakes and yet keep the 6 lug pattern? If there is I've not found it by googling, but sometimes my google fu sucks. From looking at the 67-72 chevy truck forums, I can't find any mention of it there either, and I put this truck over there too with a project thread, and honestly alot more traffic here and I trust the info given here more than I would from anywhere else.
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The guys that diy use late model stuff but idk how/what exactly. I dont care for 6lug so i never bothered.

I just use 71-72 or 73+ and 5lug
 
M92PV4U said:
Doesn't it have a panhard bar mount cast into the rear diff housing? While most would be comfortable welding that to steel, I don't think that they would be welding it to cast. Which I guess could be solved by adding a truss.
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There are aftermarket brackets that use the ubolt to mount.
 
Drummer79 said:
Ok I have a question that's semi related to some suggestions from above about converting to disk brakes. Is there a way to convert to disk brakes and yet keep the 6 lug pattern? If there is I've not found it by googling, but sometimes my google fu sucks.
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It would be a custom rotor. I tried goofing around with the gmt400 6-lug 2wd rotor for a bit. They use bigger bearings at a different spacing iirc. Then looked at putting the whole knuckle on.... more complications; gave up. Wrangled up the 5lug stuff for peanuts.

I believe some of the conversion kits use 5lug car/s10 rotors because the bearing size/spacing. I suppose you could adapt that up to 6-lug.

If you don't like 5lug, 8lug suspension swaps in just the same.

total newb said:
I had a 70 c20 also. Theres 5 different drums and wheel cyl for 20's so it can be a real pita. Mine was a d60 coil sprung.
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Yes, this colleague's truck happens to be the coil 60 also. I gave him a full roster of part numbers for the one he needs. Maybe he'll find some old stock somewhere.
 
i could pick those up and mail the, out with a bunch of glitter and appropriate labeling on the exterior.
 
Yes.

The anal research institue of ugonda was good to go. The kink kong dong and 1qrt king kong dong lube packaging list was not an issue either

But horny goat weed and bio hazard labels were not
 
Someone better order this up and put it under my name so we can “prank” him with a box of glitter and no truck parts.
 
Ok, so in spite of my question about disk brake upgrade, the plans right now are as follows:
-new ignition switch bezel (truck had no keys that worked when I got it, and you can't remove the ignition switch to replace it without the key and a paper clip, so a dremel and drill bit destroyed the bezel and old switch so I could remove it)
  • replace all soft lines in brakes, as well as master cylinder, drums, wheel cylinders, shoes, the works (should I replace brake booster too??)
  • fix the leaky, dangling, broken vent window on the passenger side
  • give the inside a good clorox bath and replace the steering wheel
  • DRIVE IT TIL I FIGURE OUT WHERE TO GO NEXT WITH IT :smokin:
 
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Ok, while I'm still recovering from the company I worked for for half my life shutting down, and catching up on bills with the meager paychecks I've been getting due to all the damn rain lately.. I've been doing a lot of looking at truck porn and daydreaming lol. This truck has factory AC. If I were to go about getting it working again, should I go scorched earth and replace everything? The compressor is locked up tight as a nun's cooch, but beyond that, replace like all the stuff and go R134? or go all black market and find R12 to refill it with? From reading, even a rebuilt A6 (compressor type) will eventually leak with R134.
In either case, and i hope some AC experts step in, how much of the existing stuff should I replace? drier probably, but condenser, evaporator? I want to do it once and do it right when i get around to doing it.
 
Ok good on the refrigerant replacement now, how much of the old system, besides hoses probably, and locked compressor, should I worry about replacing?
 
The native r134a condenser coils are higher density because it's less efficient than R12. It may not matter in a small pickup cab though (vs a crew or suburban).
 
Ok I hate to be a tease in updating this thread without any true updates about truck project, I've had alot of shit going on and low funds lately.. But besides here, is there a better place for info on these trucks than the 67-72 truck forum? I swear nobody there leaves shit stock, or restores to stock, and hard to get a straight answer for anything in there, if you get an answer at all. As far as rust repair etc.. awesome resource, but trying to just put it back like it was, not LS swap it, lower it, etc.. that forum sucks.. In a thread about stock interiors that went on for pages not ONE was actually a stock interior, etc.
 
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