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12v Cummins Turbo

TrailTamer

TrailTamer

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May 26, 2020
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I’m shopping for a new turbo in my ‘97 Dodge Ram 2500 5 speed.

I’ll like an upgrade turbo, not HX35.

I’m eyeballing S300G (57mm). Supposedly a direct drop in, excluding down pipe, 400RWHP turbo.
http://www.turbos.borgwarner.com/files/pdf/dimensional_reference/airwerks/S300GX.pdf

Borg Warner 174430 Turbocharger (S300G071) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0156KQ4A...YGG5K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&tag=91812054244-20

My next choices are Power Driven Diesel’s Aggressor 62mm & S362SX-E.

https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/power-driven-diesel-aggressor-62/

https://powerdrivendiesel.com/product/borg-warner-sxe-drop-2nd-gen-dodge/

I’m liking S300G (57mm) as I can get it for ~$900. Any reason why should I consider the last two & more expensive 62mm options? I’m only looking for as fast (or faster) spooling than HX35 and more usable power for towing (no uncontrollable EGT) when towing at about 20,000-22,000 GCW (14,000 GTW MAX)
 
I can't say anything bad about the BW stuff as I've heard nothing but good things.

I can tell you that a HE351cw from a common rail 5.9 is a killer upgrade for a fraction of the cost. Bonus points is that it's a factory application if you ever kill one in the middle of a trip.

The other thing I wanted to try was a variable vane off of a 6.7 with a stand alone controller. Can be tuned for almost instant boost and also as an exhaust brake.
 
get something off the shelf borg or holset, nothing stupid and boutique
don't bother with "drop in"
plumbing is retard-simple, anything with a t3 flange will bolt right on your manifold
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I can't say anything bad about the BW stuff as I've heard nothing but good things.

I can tell you that a HE351cw from a common rail 5.9 is a killer upgrade for a fraction of the cost. Bonus points is that it's a factory application if you ever kill one in the middle of a trip.

The other thing I wanted to try was a variable vane off of a 6.7 with a stand alone controller. Can be tuned for almost instant boost and also as an exhaust brake.
Click to expand...

he351cw is what my choice was going to be
 
he351cw is kinda small, not much of an upsize over an hx35, I've got one on my 1.9L tdi
why bother with all the expense and fucking around for not much change in airflow?
 
[486 said:
;n286174]he351cw is kinda small, not much of an upsize over an hx35, I've got one on my 1.9L tdi
why bother with all the expense and fucking around for not much change in airflow?
Click to expand...

So you start to see boost at what, 3000rpm?

He351cw would be a good upgrade for a 5.9, but you're going to want to do some porting work on the turbine housing to keep egts low.
 
[486 said:
;n286174]he351cw is kinda small, not much of an upsize over an hx35, I've got one on my 1.9L tdi
why bother with all the expense and fucking around for not much change in airflow?
Click to expand...

You're right, I thought it was bigger difference in Compressor size.

I went from a modified ve pump 12v turbo to the HE351cw. (can't remember the name off hand) with a smaller turbine housing and 60mm Compressor. It was semi comparable to an hx40 I guess.

The 351 would spool almost instantly and pull all the way up. I actually had to tune the waste gate since with it pinched off it hit 52 lbs. It was just a fuck around truck, so I can't really comment on highway towing or anything. But they are pretty good unit for the money.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Are they all bushing turbos or are the pdd ones ball bearing?
Click to expand...
At what point bushing vs ball bearings matters? My current HX35 obviously is bushed and haven't failed after over 300,000 miles and seen 50 psi of boost, dyno'd 400/1000. I reuse it as-is on my new engine (which is why I am shopping... lol).

YotaAtieToo said:
I can't say anything bad about the BW stuff as I've heard nothing but good things.

I can tell you that a HE351cw from a common rail 5.9 is a killer upgrade for a fraction of the cost. Bonus points is that it's a factory application if you ever kill one in the middle of a trip.

The other thing I wanted to try was a variable vane off of a 6.7 with a stand alone controller. Can be tuned for almost instant boost and also as an exhaust brake.
Click to expand...

I considered HE351CW, but I don't want to bother with piping and gambling on some used turbo. New/Reman HE351CW cost more than what an upgraded turbo goes for lol. I looked into VGT turbos from 6.7 but I found some controllers to be costly and I am not smart enough to build a microprocessor for it, though. I decided I will like to keep it simple and go with non-VGT turbo and get an inline exhaust if I really need one.

By the way my truck's new engine was fully torn down & rebuilt with some basic goodies. billet piston squirters, Colt Cam's tappets with Colt Cam's "The Big Stick", 60 lbs valve springs, block decked FLAT, block o-ring'd, cylinder head decked FLAT, ARP studs. I will like to believe its ready for lots of boost, regards head gasket sealing and the air flow provided by the cam. NV4500 will be pissed :laughing:
 
Asked my cummingsbro friend what he'd gone with, he's got a CR 5.9, said s366 with the smaller a/r t3 housing and an external wastegate
Seems to work fine as a single with enough fuel for a little smoke. He's got an auto though.
 
TrailTamer said:
At what point bushing vs ball bearings matters? My current HX35 obviously is bushed and haven't failed after over 300,000 miles and seen 50 psi of boost, dyno'd 400/1000. I reuse it as-is on my new engine (which is why I am shopping... lol).
Click to expand...

I've never run one, but benefits should be faster spool-up, better responsiveness, and better longevity. Not that ball bearing should be a primary factor, but if those more expensive turbos are ball bearing, vs the cheaper ones being journal bearing, would be a benefit. Just something to weigh.

If you put that much money into the engine btw, I would be more inclined get the better turbo from PDD. They seem know their shit.
 
TrailTamer said:
I considered HE351CW, but I don't want to bother with piping and gambling on some used turbo. New/Reman HE351CW cost more than what an upgraded turbo goes for lol. I looked into VGT turbos from 6.7 but I found some controllers to be costly and I am not smart enough to build a microprocessor for it, though. I decided I will like to keep it simple and go with non-VGT turbo and get an inline exhaust if I really need one.
Click to expand...

I had a '97 2500 5 speed for a long time; I finally sold it ~4 years ago. I ran 35s with 3.54 gears, and I live in Denver, so spool up with the stock HX35 wasn't great. I ended up swapping on a HE351VE from an early 6.7 and built a mechanical actuator for it. It worked, it towed great and the exhaust brake worked good (although I never really got it hooked up permanently), but the spool up was never what I'd hoped for. I think with a better mechanical actuator setup it could have been improved, but (going off memory), the wheel was a bit heavy for the 12V to get spun up. With the gear splits on the NV4500, when accelerating up hill with my 5th wheel you had to really wind it up good and shift quick, but it did go pretty well. It would blow a quick puff of black (less than a second I'd say) when shifting, then clean up quick.

I looked into the aftermarket controllers, but they were expensive, plus it just seemed dumb to me to add electronics to a truck that can otherwise be started and ran with nothing more than a zip tie and a hill. I had actually collected the parts to swap on an HE351CW and an elbow mount Pacbrake, but ended up getting a newer truck before I put them on.

Fast forward to today, and I have a 2015 with 90,000 miles with a failing turbo actuator. Cheapest replacement I've found is going to run over $500, and it seems that actuator failure is quite common. Which reaffirms my earlier decision not to add the electronic controller.

I did pick up some power with the VGT, and it helped with my EGTs when towing, but in the end it just wasn't worth the hassle. I would agree with the last post, you've got enough money tied up in the motor to justify an aftermarket turbo with an inline or elbow mount brake if needed.

Pete
 
I have a he351cw on my '96 Ram with nv4500. Spools up a lot faster than stock of course, I opened up the wastegate port because it's tiny and added a home brew spring wastegate actuator mounted to the drain flange with an eye bolt for adjustability.
 
854xtoy said:
I have a he351cw on my '96 Ram with nv4500. Spools up a lot faster than stock of course, I opened up the wastegate port because it's tiny and added a home brew spring wastegate actuator mounted to the drain flange with an eye bolt for adjustability.
Click to expand...
Pic of your waste gate actuator?
 
Ive got a Borg sx364.5 on my '96 12v (in a '74 crew w/zf6).....no complaints. Thing rips and I even get decent fuel mileage lol
 
What about a vgt turbo on some of the upgraded one you grab a different controller and you get an exhaust brake built into it as long as you have heavier springs installed. With a vgt you have instant light off.
 
TrailTamer said:
Bringing this back up.

Ordered PDD’s S362SX-E and their in-cab turbo tuner.

5x14 injectors going in too.
Click to expand...

Nice! Im running a PDDs 5x.014's too, just on their sx364!

Picked up a 215 pump in NJ about two months ago and sent it out to Farrell (Diesel Tuff) to get the thing worked. Cant afford a house, so may as well spend some dollars and make myself happy with truck parts. Curious to see how the worked 215 does in comparison to the 160 Ive been running.

Also super curious how that AFC Live works for you! Keep us updated!
 
Burns said:
Nice! Im running a PDDs 5x.014's too, just on their sx364!
Click to expand...
how is its drivability like? 160hp meaning its an auto?

I am running NV4500 (and wants to go back to auto). Hoping the SX362SX-E will spool well to not suck as bad between gears.
Burns said:
Picked up a 215 pump in NJ about two months ago and sent it out to Farrell (Diesel Tuff) to get the thing worked.
Click to expand...
Should've just bolt it in :smokin:
Burns said:
Cant afford a house, so may as well spend some dollars and make myself happy with truck parts.
Click to expand...
I know, right... :clown:
Burns said:
Also super curious how that AFC Live works for you! Keep us updated!
Click to expand...
Will do, I will have their turbo tuners to play with too.... I am not convinced yet on how 'nice' it is to have in-cab turbo tuner, gotta try it and see.

I opened up my AFC Live tuner and fairly sure I positively identified pneumatic components inside it. If you want to be the guinea pig and try DIY build the tuner for a ton cheaper... PM me for part#s or should I just post it up in a new thread?
 
Speaking of swaps that make baby Jesus cry. (Manual to auto)

Anyone on the internet swap in a 6 speed auto from a newer Cummins into a 12v or 24v truck ? I think that would be the shit.
 
3rd isnt safe either. I was towing a 14ft trailer with a chevy van on it, rolled into 3rd and cleaned off the teeth.
 
Burns said:
Also super curious how that AFC Live works for you! Keep us updated!
Click to expand...

Same here, I've debated getting one just for the ease of tuning. I don't need to be messing with it all the time, just figure it'll save a lot of time getting it right.


TrailTamer said:
I opened up my AFC Live tuner and fairly sure I positively identified pneumatic components inside it. If you want to be the guinea pig and try DIY build the tuner for a ton cheaper... PM me for part#s or should I just post it up in a new thread?
Click to expand...

X2 on starting a thread for it
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Speaking of swaps that make baby Jesus cry. (Manual to auto)

Anyone on the internet swap in a 6 speed auto from a newer Cummins into a 12v or 24v truck ? I think that would be the shit.
Click to expand...

i'm trying to figure out what to do with my 1997 3500 CTD and auto. It needs front cab mounts, runs great, but the AT needs more gears...or i need to swap the 3.55's axle gears to something else. I'm running 295's and can tow at 55 or 75, the engine lugs in between.
 
jeepnmatt said:
i'm trying to figure out what to do with my 1997 3500 CTD and auto. It needs front cab mounts, runs great, but the AT needs more gears...or i need to swap the 3.55's axle gears to something else. I'm running 295's and can tow at 55 or 75, the engine lugs in between.
Click to expand...

Manual would help, usually a shorter od. But the next gear down will be the same.

A newer 6 speed auto from any manufacturer would be pretty sweet.
 
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