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12 & 24 Volt Jump Pack

Lowrollin70gmc

Flatland Wheeler
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
762
Messages
160
Loc
Abercrombie, ND
I maintain a snow removal fleet and we’re looking for a new jump pack. I’ve bought a couple NOCO ones in the past, but the 3000amp one just bit the dust after a little over a year. Rather than spend another $300 on the same 12 volt pack, I want to get some opinions.

The pickups, skidsteers, and small tractors are 12 volt, but most of the loader fleet is 24 volt so I’d like to buy one that does both. Price isn’t a big issue, but the boss expects the shit to work well for years if I turn in a $500 receipt for a jump pack.

Currently I have some 1 Gauge jumper cables and use one loader to jump another. Works except when it’s the last loader in the shop, then I’m stuck waiting for the batteries to charge. Rarely do I have to jump something off site (all operators are instructed to never turn off the machine until back inside the shop after their shift) so I don’t care if it’s heavy. Hell, should I mount 2 Group 31 batteries to a dolly and jump off that? I already have a 12V winch/jump start dolly and could build a 24V one.

What I had, that failed: NOCO GM150 3000amp 12V:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...91812054244-20

What I’m considering: Jump-N-Carry JNC1224 3400/1700amp 12/24V: There are other brands with the same model nomenclature off Amazon, just easier to link this one for comparison.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...91812054244-20

For shits and giggles, my winch dolly. We have too many trailers for a winch on each, so I built this heavy sucker to drag the broken compact tractor onto whatever trailer is available. Harbor freight 12k winch, group 31 battery in box, 3/8 plate for the feet forward winch mount. Should’ve built it lighter, it sucks to hump into a pickup bed.

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I don't think you're going to beat the cost/performance of some big ass lead acid batteries on a cart if that's an option.

maybe stick a marine battery charger on it so you can just plug it in to whatever outlet is handy and forget about it.
 
the supercapacitor ones look real interesting as they're dual-voltage without changing anything

fuck the li-ion ones, they're great if you want to run a cell phone charger off of it but they never last in actual use
 
ugh forum software is fucking up hard

anyways, what I use as a jump pack nowadays is just an old 51 battery from a honda, an ac-delco one with the good handle on it
it's twice the battery of the little gel cell in the plastic case with the handles, but still light enough to schlep around with ease

What I'm getting at is that you won't get anywhere near the capacity of a g31 through a little alligator clip's contact patch so may as well go with something lighter unless you've just got the 31s laying around.
 
Jump-n-Carry is my go to for jump boxes, I have used their smaller 12v ones for quite a while now, I have one that is going on 5 years old, I recently replaced it purely to get more capacity, it still works just fine. The little lithium ones are okay for a car with an almost dead battery but you can't crank on 'em very long before you ruin em, the leads and clamps usually suck ass too.

We have a big 12v battery on a hand truck and it's pretty hard to beat, just isn't quite as convenient as the hand carry models.
 
[486 said:
;n247639]ugh forum software is fucking up hard

anyways, what I use as a jump pack nowadays is just an old 51 battery from a honda, an ac-delco one with the good handle on it
it's twice the battery of the little gel cell in the plastic case with the handles, but still light enough to schlep around with ease

What I'm getting at is that you won't get anywhere near the capacity of a g31 through a little alligator clip's contact patch so may as well go with something lighter unless you've just got the 31s laying around.

That’s a good point about not using the entire capacity of a 31, with that in mind I could do a couple 34/78s so that I still have some reserve, but way less weight and cost than 31s. I don’t have the 31s on hand, but that’s the most common battery I buy for the equipment and Kenworths, and 34/78s for the fleet of GM pickups. If I go this route, I’d want to be able to cannibalize the battery out of if I absolutely need a battery when stores are closed.
 
The forum software really is screwing up today. I swear my first post was formatted into paragraphs when I posted it.


That looks awesome, I know I said I didn’t care about weight, but 450 lbs may not be realistic. I guess I could toss it in the truck bed with a set of forks when off site. Or could I put a hitch on it and flat tow? Irate loves flat towing...



Jump-n-Carry is my go to for jump boxes, I have used their smaller 12v ones for quite a while now, I have one that is going on 5 years old, I recently replaced it purely to get more capacity, it still works just fine. The little lithium ones are okay for a car with an almost dead battery but you can't crank on 'em very long before you ruin em, the leads and clamps usually suck ass too.

We have a big 12v battery on a hand truck and it's pretty hard to beat, just isn't quite as convenient as the hand carry models.

I like that their batteries are easily replaceable, unlike the NOCO ones. I’ll likely tear apart my broken one one day and see if I can source a replacement battery.
 
That’s a good point about not using the entire capacity of a 31, with that in mind I could do a couple 34/78s so that I still have some reserve, but way less weight and cost than 31s. I don’t have the 31s on hand, but that’s the most common battery I buy for the equipment and Kenworths, and 34/78s for the fleet of GM pickups. If I go this route, I’d want to be able to cannibalize the battery out of if I absolutely need a battery when stores are closed.

fuckin' A bud
also, instead of crimping up a 24v specific one just make up two 12v ones

just as simple as the clamps/cables off an old dead jump pack or charger crimped to some battery terminals
 
Jump-n-Carry is my go to for jump boxes, I have used their smaller 12v ones for quite a while now, I have one that is going on 5 years old, I recently replaced it purely to get more capacity, it still works just fine. The little lithium ones are okay for a car with an almost dead battery but you can't crank on 'em very long before you ruin em, the leads and clamps usually suck ass too.

We have a big 12v battery on a hand truck and it's pretty hard to beat, just isn't quite as convenient as the hand carry models.

I've never needed a 24v jumper, but I have 2 of the 12v jump n carries and they've been flawless....though tit's probably about time to replace the batteries in both of them.

I wouldn't hesitate to pick up a 24v version it I needed it.
https://www.amazon.com/Jump-N-Carry-JNC1224-3400-1700-Starter/dp/B000JFHMVG?tag=91812054244-20


You said "in the shop" and you're charging batteries. Are they typically close to power where a 300a electric jump starter/charger would be more useful?
 
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jnc 660 is what the shop I used to work at used
they are still just a little 10lb gel-cell lead acid battery in there
they last a lot longer than the li-ion ones, but retards always break the internal charger and the li'l baby batteries never come back right after being run down stone-dead
thus the old car battery
 
You said "in the shop" and you're charging batteries. Are they typically close to power where a 300a electric jump starter/charger would be more useful?


We have a row of 4 heated shops that the equipment lives in, so they’re often reasonably close to 120V power. We had an old 12v/24v plug in charger/starter that died last year. It was replaced with a 12V/24V charger, but not a 24V jump starter (not my purchasing decision). My worry is that if I need to start something off site (or even across our lot) I won’t have reasonable access to 120V plug ins.
 
I have tried most everything. I ended up building a cart that Holds 2 8d batteries and a 2 battery charger/maintainer. Best thing ever!!! I can roll dead loaders over in winter with zero issues. I used welder lead quick connects to attach the leads and to switch from 12 to 24. I’ll grab some pictures when I’m out in the garage.

I had to put some warning stickers on it as my dad almost burnt the fucking shop down when he clipped the leads on the cart.

I tried to find one of those 12/24v small engine jump starters. They wanted like 4-5 grand for one way too much for that.

I’m really really happy with the two battery jump pack. I’m gonna build another one this winter with no wheels to drop in the back of a pickup or kubota.
 
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When I was a safety dude for a fleet maintenance operation the jump n carry's were good for blowing up and sending a mechanic to the hospital at least once a year. I believe one of the mechanics is sueing them right now.... I vote big ass batteries on a cart especially if you aren't really going off-site.
 
[486 said:
;n247696]

fuckin' A bud
also, instead of crimping up a 24v specific one just make up two 12v ones

just as simple as the clamps/cables off an old dead jump pack or charger crimped to some battery terminals

I`m fucking :lmao: at the thought that equipment operating people will be smart enough to rearrange leads to swap voltages, and to know when to do so, without exploding a battery, melting the cables or starting a fire.

Unless, of course, the OP is the only guy doing the boosting and never misses work or takes days off.
 
I`m fucking :lmao: at the thought that equipment operating people will be smart enough to rearrange leads to swap voltages, and to know when to do so, without exploding a battery, melting the cables or starting a fire.

Unless, of course, the OP is the only guy doing the boosting and never misses work or takes days off.

to be fair it is way easy to fuck up jumping anything 24v if you're retarded
what with the one wire going from the + to the -, real easy to dead short your jumper pack if you're a little bit dumb or drunk
 
I`m fucking :lmao: at the thought that equipment operating people will be smart enough to rearrange leads to swap voltages, and to know when to do so, without exploding a battery, melting the cables or starting a fire.

Unless, of course, the OP is the only guy doing the boosting and never misses work or takes days off.

if I were building a cart with batteries for 12/24v use, there'd be two anderson connectors very clearly marked for each voltage.
 
if I were building a cart with batteries for 12/24v use, there'd be two anderson connectors very clearly marked for each voltage.

If you`re using the same two batteries in parallel for 12, then in series for 24 how would you set up the anderson connectors and the booster cable leads?

Make a picture, because explaining it in words sucks.
 
I have a switch that will provide 24v when needed and swap to charge mode when not needed.

Interest ?

My ex boss gave wiring diagram I just found the switch via his suppliers and ordered it.
 
If you`re using the same two batteries in parallel for 12, then in series for 24 how would you set up the anderson connectors and the booster cable leads?

Make a picture, because explaining it in words sucks.

I wouldn't parallel the two for 12V, I'd do it real nasty like and just tap one battery in the bank and say fuck your imbalance.

if you wanted to parallel them you'd need some sort of combiner switch.
 
I don't think you're going to beat the cost/performance of some big ass lead acid batteries on a cart if that's an option.

maybe stick a marine battery charger on it so you can just plug it in to whatever outlet is handy and forget about it.

Yep, all the car auctions use a version of a dolly, couple batteries, big cables and clamps, and a charger all in a fancy case. I wanted a pocket charger to diag and test vehicles prior to auction, but they all let me borrow them without issue.

I never trusted the pocket nano whatever jump packs. 12g wires and alligator clips cant last for long. Too many stories of them blowing up.

Buy a couple group 65 walmart batteries for $55 each, decent charger, cheap jumper cables, and put it on a dolly/wagon of your choosing. Build it to were you can switch the cables easily for series or parallel.
 
I`m fucking :lmao:
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==
​​ at the thought that equipment operating people will be smart enough to rearrange leads to swap voltages, and to know when to do so, without exploding a battery, melting the cables or starting a fire.

Unless, of course, the OP is the only guy doing the boosting and never misses work or takes days off.

If I build a cart, I’m leaning towards 24v only. I have the 12v winch cart, my company pickup, and a couple smaller NOCO things for 12v. If I buy a solution, then switchable is a bonus.

It’s pretty much me jumping the 24v stuff. Or directing the owner via telephone. I don’t really trust most of the operators, especially as there a couple of the older large loaders that are 12v. I can’t even remember 100% most of the time on the G’s and H’s, I confirm by looking at the starter tag before hooking up jumpers. Probably make a label with model numbers for the 24v cart.

I got my start in heavy equipment (operating, but now I’m smart enough to wrench:flipoff2:) in the Marine Corps and never thought I’d wish for slave cables and terminals again, but damn that makes this stuff idiot proof. 24v and JP8 for everything.

I have a switch that will provide 24v when needed and swap to charge mode when not needed.

Interest ?

My ex boss gave wiring diagram I just found the switch via his suppliers and ordered it.

I’m interested if it switches between 12v or 24v. I’ve drawn up a diagram using both batteries for both voltages, but it requires a DPDT switch and I haven’t found one large enough for this usage. I could also do a SPST switch between the batteries and just use one battery for 12V and not care about balance.
 
The one I have I'm thinking is good for 1500 amps (intermittent)will find box it came in and confirm.

Only have the one as the direct connection to that supplier is long gone.



12/24 Volt Series Parallel Switch Relay Replaces Delco 1119844 Series Parallel Solenoid - 9-844
12 Volt DC volt and 24 volt DC 1500 amp Starter Relay, momentary and continuous duty type relays,
Auxiliary Starter Relays, Universal Relay Wiring kit for heavy duty electrical loads.
20201227_164207.jpg
 
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I have tried most everything. I ended up building a cart that Holds 2 8d batteries and a 2 battery charger/maintainer. Best thing ever!!! I can roll dead loaders over in winter with zero issues. I used welder lead quick connects to attach the leads and to switch from 12 to 24. I’ll grab some pictures when I’m out in the garage.

I had to put some warning stickers on it as my dad almost burnt the fucking shop down when he clipped the leads on the cart.

I tried to find one of those 12/24v small engine jump starters. They wanted like 4-5 grand for one way too much for that.

I’m really really happy with the two battery jump pack. I’m gonna build another one this winter with no wheels to drop in the back of a pickup or kubota.

I was hoping for your reply seeing as we have similar climates.

The old battery charger got toasted when someone turned it on before connecting the vehicle. Leads clipped on the handle and something inside let out the ‘ol electrical smoke show. Still powered on, but was putting out 18V on the 12V setting. Good way to fry pickup batteries by employees, so I let one of the guys take it home. He can boil his own batteries to his heart’s content.

I don’t think I need to go as crazy as 250lbs of 8d goodness, although that sounds awesome. Might have to stick with 2 34/78s so I can bring it on site if needed. Thankfully in the shop the loaders are kept at 45-50 degrees and if it’s off site hopefully hasn’t been turned off too long and is still relatively warm.

I did charge a loader with another loader when it’s alternator died last year. Operator left it idling in the snow pile when the parking brake solenoid released due to low voltage and got a ride to the shop for another machine. I went to recover it, and a 24 volt mechanical pump Deere can still run at 8v and not release the fuel solenoid. Charged it with another loader for an hour so I could drive across town to the shop. With no heater and lights turned off it made it inside with 21V on the gauge.
 
This one I built and is good for a zillion amps. It has 2 8d batteries in it.
FDDDB6EF-0B22-4922-8279-4859FE25E9DF.jpeg


Four taps one for each post of the two battery’s. Hook it up to one side for 12v put jumper in the middle for 24v.
89782848-4E1B-4E94-8DCB-5DF341095321.jpeg


I put a 2 battery charger/ maintainer in it.

12C61298-DD0A-4B00-8AD6-A826067679EC.jpeg
And a retractable extension coord to plug it it.

E67345A1-E35D-45F5-9F23-A3D2ABE60F9F.jpeg


Because it can make a zillion amps I also had to put some warning labels on it.

E726F248-9C37-4E3E-8834-172D4F2268CE.jpeg


EF5F71D6-020F-417B-B88C-D038648942B2.jpeg


It’s all made out of 1/4” plate so you can beat it up and not hurt it.

I’m gonna make one more no wheels and handle to sit better in a pickup.
 
I’m interested if it switches between 12v or 24v. I’ve drawn up a diagram using both batteries for both voltages, but it requires a DPDT switch and I haven’t found one large enough for this usage. I could also do a SPST switch between the batteries and just use one battery for 12V and not care about balance.

so I gave some more thought to this, googled, and found a pre made solution that's probably just like the one I would make myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Equalizer-Voltage-Balancer-support/dp/B07L8X8ZZH?tag=91812054244-20

there you go, allows for the high battery to pump 5A into the low battery until they're equal.

and I wouldn't do a switch or anything. I'd make a set of cables with anderson connectors, and I'd put two connectors on the box. one wired to one battery for 12V, and one wired to both for 24. Make them different colors. Mark them obviously. color code your model listing sheet on the side of the cart to the cable end color you need to hook the jumper lead to. make it as simple as matching one of the colors from the list with the wires.

sb350-sb-series-350-amp-anderson-powerpole-kit_580.jpg

either make a charger with a mating anderson connector or put it onboard and charge it as a 24v battery and just let the equalizer do it's thing to balance them if you use it for 12V jumping.
 
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Click image for larger version Name:	jump pack wiring diagram.png Views:	0 Size:	233.0 KB ID:	247994

I'd do something like this with those welder taps... Simple and should be good for all of the amps! Orange would just be a copper jumper from one tap to the other. The OFF position would just be a couple of dummy plugs to keep the loose ends from arcing and sparking if they accidentally contacted something they shouldn't.
 
I’m a fan of that. I could easily keep it topped off with a 12V battery tender.

Now to start sourcing panel receptacles for welding leads and figuring how I want to build the cart. I have some 1/4” HDPE I could mount the receptacle bank on all slick like.
 
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