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06 LBZ Upgrades w/cab removed

OutlawRider

OutlawRider

Gum Gardener
Joined
May 20, 2020
Member Number
658
Messages
257
Loc
Arkansas
I just picked up another Duramax (like I need more crap floating around). 06 CCSB w/LBZ and 6 speed Allison. 300k on the clock. No idea on the condition of anything other than it runs and has blown head gaskets.

Overall goal is not set in concrete. It did had a flatbed on the back and has airbags and overloads. I don’t know if I will flip it or run it. I already have an 03 that I have posted here and drive it daily. (I have a new truck to, just like driving the old ones).

My plan so far:
1) pull the cab and give myself plenty of room to work.
2) replace head gaskets (thinking I should stud it at the same time.

What all upgrades should I do while the cab is off. I want to get everything together prior. Probably just use LDS again.

4x4 doesn’t seem to want to engage. It says it goes into 4hi but only blinks for 4lo so not sure it actually goes into 4x4 at all. Should I pull the t-case and check for pump rub?

Thinking lift pump, not sure on turbo or exhaust and if it is even worth the money to upgrade? What about pulling and sending the injectors off to be tested? It runs fine now and these are easier to pull than the LB7 (I’ve done those a few times but never an LBZ). I like the idea of EFILive.

Just trying to get my plans together before I start.
 

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I THOUGHT I blew a head gasket and replaced it anyways. I believe, since it still exists, the hose from the EGR cooler to the thermostat housing is where the leak comes from. If you're doing headgaskets then do studs. If it's a toy then upgrade the turbo. Either the Duramax Tuner Stealth 64 or the Garrett 4094 were what seemed popular when I wanted to throw money at my truck. My goal would be 1,000 ft pounds of torque at the wheels to compete with all the new L5P trucks. Mine was a "want vs. need" situation and I didn't need another problem.
I tested my injectors at a local shop because I wanted to know. Mine were good and I've always run an additive. Again, easy to remove/replace while doing head gaskets/studs.
I upgraded the downpipe as well. It might be easier with all the shit you have to remove for head gaskets to do it then.
Replace all the rubber hoses you take off, and maybe the water pump since you're in there. It's only money, right?

I recently replaced the rear output seal on my 2006 LBC CCSB with 299K miles. Rock Auto had the part and it was easy to replace.
I added the rear housing support (Rear Housing Support - Allison Transmission, Duramax | 2001 - 2007) to mine. Unsure if it did anything and I can't say I've had any problems with the driveshaft to justify it.
 
I was trying to budget around 5k-8k for everything including the bed and minor body work.
 
$1,200 for the head gaskets with studs.
www.merchant-automotive.com

Duramax Head Gasket Kit - LBZ

Looking for Merchant Auto Duramax Head Gasket Kit - LBZ #4502?
www.merchant-automotive.com www.merchant-automotive.com

$135 for the housing support

About $50 for shipping. Gets you to $1,400 after tax.

A downpipe will cost about $135, and a 67mm trim turbo with new vane sensor is $3,553 after tax and shipping from DMAX store.

Just about $5,000 before you order some new tuning for your bigger 800 hp capable turbo and the engine to handle it, and then you can buy a bed for the thing and a whole bunch of rubber hoses.

I'd suggest replacing the turbo coolant hose. Mostly because it's small and easy if you're in there.

Duramax Turbo Coolant Return Hose (2001-2016) | DMAX Store

dmaxstore.com dmaxstore.com
It's the little blue section in the photo. I did it because the internet told me to do it. I'm no mechanic either. I did this whole thing 75% myself and anyone who knew me before this project would tell you 11 times out of 10 "no way he could do it." So take my advice for what it's worth.

The head studs have a 12 point nut so you'll want a 1/2 drive 12 point socket. Thankfully I did. I believe final torque was 125 ft pounds. Stock GM bolts are something like 60 degrees twice.

I referenced this a lot.
https://longhornfabshop.com/templates/__custom/images/gray/LFS-Torque Specs.pdf
 
Last person I knew who blew headgaskits on a duramax, ended up having cracked heads. Most people don't want to pay the money to put new heads on a 300k mile engine.

How you got it cheap :flipoff2:
 
Meh, if it has cracked heads, so be it. I doubt they are, as the symptoms don’t line up with cracked heads. Not impossible, but not likely.

I like it RunningProblem . I don’t know if I want to throw that much dough at a turbo yet. Would rather put my money on a lift pump. May upgrade the internals on the stock turbo.
 
Think I would pull heads and have them checked at least. 300,000 is over half life of engine. Maybe do a half ass rebuild. Bearings, oil pump, front rear seals. R&R waterpump.
 
Someone mentioned oil pump. I wasn’t sure if that was something I had to pull the motor to do or not in these trucks. I’m not against it, but I don’t want to pull the motor.

I have a list started and was going to post it here when I get closer to pulling the trigger.
 
From this pic it looks like its driven off a gear under the timing cover.

Not quite like the old days where its driven by the end of the distributor as there is no distributor, but still has issues it seems.

It looks easier to replace, and may solve the issues if the bearing clearance hasnt been compromised.

20220715_093059.jpg



OutlawRider said:
Someone mentioned oil pump. I wasn’t sure if that was something I had to pull the motor to do or not in these trucks. I’m not against it, but I don’t want to pull the motor.

I have a list started and was going to post it here when I get closer to pulling the trigger.
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With the crack down on deletes, this thing still has the EGR. I can put an LB7 pipe on it but then I need a tune so it does throw a CEL without it. Plan on EFI live with tube from PPEI. Should I just leave the EGR valve now? This is all hypothetical of course.
 
OutlawRider said:
With the crack down on deletes, this thing still has the EGR. I can put an LB7 pipe on it but then I need a tune so it does throw a CEL without it. Plan on EFI live with tube from PPEI. Should I just leave the EGR valve now? This is all hypothetical of course.
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FIL just bought a 2006 with about the same miles on it. Was occasionally driven before he got it, had a CEL for EGR. He's been pulling trailer, average of about 15K loads, over 20k miles in the last 8 weeks. EGR code cleared and hasn't come back. I say fuck it and leave the EGR on it if you aren't going to be short-tripping it or letting it idle a bunch.
 
RunningProblem said:
Updates?
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Rolled my side by side and have been working on that. All my funds have gone their. I did get a set of tires I want to try stuffing under. Probably going to hate myself and give up and stick with 35s in short order. 40s and keeping the truck low hung isn’t easy on these trucks. Especially keeping IFS. So either SFA or long travel ifs kit. I’m really wanting to do the latter.
IowaOffRoad said:
FIL just bought a 2006 with about the same miles on it. Was occasionally driven before he got it, had a CEL for EGR. He's been pulling trailer, average of about 15K loads, over 20k miles in the last 8 weeks. EGR code cleared and hasn't come back. I say fuck it and leave the EGR on it if you aren't going to be short-tripping it or letting it idle a bunch.
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I have been thinking of keeping it and tuning it right.
CDA 455 II said:
I'm so sorry to hear; my condolences.😞🙏
:blacktextflipoff!!:
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😂😂😂
 
Update:
Ended up getting rid of too much money on a piece of junk truck but I don't want a new truck payment
-New CP3 (300k on this one)
-New Fleece Cheetah Turbo (just want more power for towing but didn't need anything crazy)
-AirDog Lift pump
-Rebuild kit w/ARP studs and Mahle "C" Gasket
-New soft fuel lines
-Hex head bolts for valve covers and fuel line hold downs
-Water Pump
-Oil pump

Just going to keep the EGR and stock exhaust. I really don't see a need in a LML manifold. I don't think EGTs will be a big issue. EFI Live to tune and keep the stock trans alive. I REALLY want to run 40s with minimal lift but I think it is an absolute pain to do so. it may just get 35s.
 
If you’re keeping the EGR cooler then I’d put new hoses on it. Mine leaks from the front, and it’s a bitch to get to the hose so mine just forever will leak. I use to run a block off plate, but stopped because it really didn’t make a difference in anything.

I did EFI live from Kory Willis before SHTF and everyone stopped offering them. I have his tow tubes and it’s nice having the turbo brake using the VVT turbo. No difference in fuel mileage though. I can’t tell much difference between light and heavy tube, and I don’t run the max tune ever because it’s just a stock truck. The new turbo should be able to get you some good power.
 
What is this valve on the line to the heater core for? I would say a bad heater core but it would be way easier to loop/bypass
3EAEDAC2-DDCF-4E4D-8B02-F7F97604CB65.jpeg
AD3FC172-D3B1-4DC3-8AFD-F67CCA299E3E.jpeg
it vs placing a valve, no?
 
It’s aftermarket For sure. I knew that. It’s a home dew something. I wasn’t sure if it was some trick for the EGR or a sign that the heater core was shot. But the EGR seems to be present with no blocker plates.
 
If it goes to the back of the egr cooler (I can’t really tell from the photo) then I’d agree it’s a ghetto fab egr block plate. they Might have put the cheap plate between the up pipe and the cooler itself too. I don’t see it in the photo, and the orevious owner. Oils have been afraid they’d destroy the up pipe because the internet says you will.
 
RunningProblem said:
If it goes to the back of the egr cooler (I can’t really tell from the photo) then I’d agree it’s a ghetto fab egr block plate. they Might have put the cheap plate between the up pipe and the cooler itself too. I don’t see it in the photo, and the orevious owner. Oils have been afraid they’d destroy the up pipe because the internet says you will.
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EGR to firewall (valve is in between). EGR is in place and what little I have looked I don’t see a blocker plate but I am going to be looking soon and can say for sure.
 
Maybe it was there for a temporary repair like you said. It make no sense to have it there now.
 
Wiring harness finally off to the side. The turbo inlet has quite the amount of oil caked in it. Can’t tell any play in it. But I have a new one ready to go anyway.
 

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