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‘81 Pickup Project

ShitBoxSam

ShitBoxSam

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 8, 2022
Member Number
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80
Picked up this 81 from a guy I met previously looking for parts, I had let him know I wanted one of these first gens and when he acquired another one he let me know. Gave me a decent deal soI jumped on it. Story goes, he bought it from an old timer toyota mechanic who owned it since new. The old timers son used the truck most recently and put a 3in body lift on, some 35in m/t’s and spray bombed the whole thing john deere green right before running the whipsaw a couple summers ago:shaking: Here’s the truck how I got it:
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Came with a pile of recipts dating back to 84’ which include the smittybuilt tube bumpers, diff rebuilds with 4.88’s and a trd power lock in the front and a detroit auto-locker in the rear :smokin:
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Truck runs and drives, but pretty sure it needs a clutch as it engages right at the end of the pedal stroke and i’m pretty sure it slips in first and second. Only starts with gas down the carb, my guess is a choke issue or mechanical fuel pump (which I actually just replaced but haven’t fired it up to see if it made a difference). Runs strong otherwise. Guy I bought it from threw in good condition weber 32/36 from a 20r motor he had, but didn’t give me any of the misc block off plates so i’m on the fence about bolting it up. Trans (5 speed L50 i believe) feels fine but needs shifter bushings, tcase works smooth.

So here’s my plan for it that i’m gonna try my best to document on here:

Replace rotted floor boards, get running reliably whether that means getting an LC engineering weber block off plates kit or tuning the oem carb, pull the bed box the frame, clean up interior try to make complete as possible. Undecided on keeping or removing the body lift. Future plans will be high steer, dual cases, etc generic toyota build. Would love to paint it the same tan colour as my dads 1980 he bought brand new off the lot back in the day
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I’ll keep this thread updated with progress and problems. Super keen for suggestions and opinions, I am beyond stoked to start digging into this dinosaur
 

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RunningProblem said:
1uz engine swap.
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After seeing that Dirt Garage guy on youtube struggle and keep having issues with his 1uz swap kinda steers me away from the idea. I like the idea of a tdi or om617 or other small torquey diesel more than a v8 for where I drive. My friend has an 01 jetta with an alh, and says when the trans shits the bed i get the motor
 
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ToyodaAddict1980 said:
Dont ruin a first gen with a v8 swap. Let the jeeps have em.

I'd keep the stock carb over a Weber if possible. Lose the body lift and get some good springs

Love the old picture.
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Thanks, I feel the same about v8 swaps in first gens.

Front lift springs seem in good shape, rears are bent and need replacing. Will definitely be taking the body lift out after i’ve done the floor boards and put a new clutch in, figure it’s easier with it in still. It’ll be easy once i have the box off for the rear, but I’m not sure about under the cab, might be trickier. haven’t dealt with body lifts much before.

Any reason why you would stick with the stock carb? weber deletes so many hoses and lines and egr stuff as well as runs a normal air filter. And i figure my stock carb is having issues with the choke regarding my no start after sitting issue.
 
ShitBoxSam said:
Thanks, I feel the same about v8 swaps in first gens.

Front lift springs seem in good shape, rears are bent and need replacing. Will definitely be taking the body lift out after i’ve done the floor boards and put a new clutch in, figure it’s easier with it in still. It’ll be easy once i have the box off for the rear, but I’m not sure about under the cab, might be trickier. haven’t dealt with body lifts much before.

Any reason why you would stick with the stock carb? weber deletes so many hoses and lines and egr stuff as well as runs a normal air filter. And i figure my stock carb is having issues with the choke regarding my no start after sitting issue.
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Weber's have given me more trouble than stock toy carbs. I have also experienced better offroad performance with toy carbs. If you can get the toy carb working right, it should be very reliable.
I wouldn't worry about those vacuum hoses and egr. They aren't hurting anything. Well assuming they arnt leaking but that's an easy fix if they are.
 
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Man that's a cool truck, I love the first gens with the round headlights! And yea don't ruin it with a V8 swap.
 
ToyodaAddict1980 said:
Weber's have given me more trouble than stock toy carbs. I have also experienced better offroad performance with toy carbs. If you can get the toy carb working right, it should be very reliable.
I wouldn't worry about those vacuum hoses and egr. They aren't hurting anything. Well assuming they arnt leaking but that's an easy fix if they are.
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Very fair point, i don’t have personal experience owning either so I appreciate it. I will plan to get it running best I can with the toy carb and if it’s still not happy I will go ahead and swap them
 
rattlewagon said:
Ditch the carbs and propane it.

Its already been spray bombed, so paint it tan!
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A guy near me has an 86 on 40’s with a got propane turbo kit. very tempting hahah but I want to check the health of the engine first before i even start thinking forced induction

It’s getting either factory 81 toyota beige colour code 489 or new tacoma tan code 4v6 this summer
 
Got the drivers floor board cut out today to prepping to weld new floors in. Will post photos tomorrow. Fuck whoever put half assed strips of fibreglass in between the rusted out floor boards and the wood screwed in sheet metal they put on top. the big puff of white fibreglass dust soon as i hit that sucked.

Am thinking 16 guage for the new floor pans, wondering what you guys are all using. The factory toyota sheet metal looks thicker in the non rusted spots than I expected.
 
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A lot of fuckery going on here. Still need to cut more out. Previous owner had some jank seat mounts in there booger welded onto the frame. Thankful it’s looking like I won’t have to go too far up under the dash with the new floor pan
 
Anyone ever ran a low crossover setup? I’ve seen some photos online but can’t find anywhere that sold or sells arms like this. Guy near me is selling a frame with this setup and i’m thinking of asking if he will sell just the steering setup. I think my 81 has 2” or so lift leafs and I doubt high steer could clear the leafs. Kinda want to keep it low once i take the body lift off but also want to get away from push pull.
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Let me know if this is a dumb idea and i should just go high steer and get new leafs
 
I did on two vehicles using the Aqualu FJ cross over arm….
 
We used to make our own using and extra stock arm and cut it up and weld to existing, looked like this when done.
 

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Sweet truck man! I wish I still had my 81 trekker.
While everyone is spending your money for engine swaps might I suggest the 2rz or 3rz from 1st gen tacomas? They are pretty well known for swaps so your not struggling to be the first and can make decent power for their size\weight.
 
350TacoZilla said:
Sweet truck man! I wish I still had my 81 trekker.
While everyone is spending your money for engine swaps might I suggest the 2rz or 3rz from 1st gen tacomas? They are pretty well known for swaps so your not struggling to be the first and can make decent power for their size\weight.
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Thanks! Trekkers are damn cool. a 3rz is tempting since it would pretty much bolt right up, but even beat donor trucks are going for stupid money right now up here in Canukistan. Always on the lookout for a good deal on one but haven’t had any luck yet
 
Clb said:
Personally
I h8 having the steering be the curb (rock) feeler.
Run.... run far run fast...:lmao:

I'd love to find some round eyes fer mine...
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That’s my worry, I drive a lot of cut blocks and skidder roads and I feel it would probably be a stump magnet. Thinking I might as well take some measurements and see if high steer will work with the leafs I currently have.

I love the round eyes but the grill I have is an 82-83 and I didn’t realize they don’t fit into the bezels properly, so it looks dumb with a gap:homer:
 
I can see that, maybe keep eyes open for a rusted 5lug 2wd. The 3rz puts out more but the 2rz is a good little motor and actually bit simpler than the 3 with no balance shafts.
 
Luved my 3rz in the big tire taco...

It's a grill swap and bezels as I recall it may also require a little tin working?
Eta
Buckets also...
 
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I'd stick with a high steer setup. You can stay pretty low with high steer. I've seen it done with 2 1/2" springs and a drop hanger.
I'm running 6 leaf RUF and if I was any lower I'd have to start cutting to fit 35's. I already had to do a little trimming.

What springs do you have now? I suggest starting with good springs and building the steering around that. It would suck to setup the steering box with some stiff stock length springs and then have to redo it when you go to a better spring.
 
ToyodaAddict1980 said:
I'd stick with a high steer setup. You can stay pretty low with high steer. I've seen it done with 2 1/2" springs and a drop hanger.
I'm running 6 leaf RUF and if I was any lower I'd have to start cutting to fit 35's. I already had to do a little trimming.

What springs do you have now? I suggest starting with good springs and building the steering around that. It would suck to setup the steering box with some stiff stock length springs and then have to redo it when you go to a better spring.
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Current spring setup; stock front hangers and stock shackles, still has torque rod and has an adjustable drop drag link. Couldn’t find any markings on the leafs but now that i’m taking a second look I think a drag link on a high steer arm would actually clear. I wasn’t convinced before but i actually grabbed a tape and took some measurements today.
 
Those look like the stiff, stock length springs I am talking about. A good aftermarket leaf or RUF will have more leafs, push the axle forward and be softer. If you put high steer on with those leafs you may end up having to re do it to run better leafs later on.

This is how I did the box on my 1980. Flat arm and push the box way forward.
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