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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Project rehab 3.0
- Thread starter Tjjared
- Start date
Wisconsinite
Red Skull
Badass progress! Can't wait to see it done.
Tabs on the front of the axle for a suckdown?
Tabs on the front of the axle for a suckdown?
Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #39
Got all the brake calipers drilled and taped for 1/8” NTP fittings, the rear cutting brake also need to changed to 1/8 NTP one hole needed a 1/4 to 1/8 adapter but no biggie. Also got a XS battery in it’s a group 35 over 700CCA’s small for what it is and about 5 Lbs lighter then the optimas
Chassis welding is still happening should hopefully have it done tonight and paint it before this weekend reassemble
Chassis welding is still happening should hopefully have it done tonight and paint it before this weekend reassemble
Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #42
Took a few days off after working on it every day/night last week… but last night got the atlas in and the shifters mocked up and built one of my diffs getting the 10” stuff in the 9” 3rd took a few try’s but one down one more to go once it shows up. My dial indicator came apart on me after like 15 plus years so had to order a new one…
Care to enlighten me on your 10" troubles?
About to do the same with motives and gearworks LP housings, while I know they fit when you hold the ring gear and look at the housing it does not look like that 10" gear will fit haha.
About to do the same with motives and gearworks LP housings, while I know they fit when you hold the ring gear and look at the housing it does not look like that 10" gear will fit haha.
Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #44
Some of it was my doing…. Lol trying to do it for as little cost as possible and used parts I had.
Tried to use a 9” bearing support that I had but the pinion support would not set flush… so I got gear works 10” coming and the install kit I had all the right bearings but the bearing and race next to the yoke. Then I needed more shims for the solid pinion spacer.
Now that I have all the parts figured out the next one will go easy
Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #45
Spent a little time last night after the wife went to bed getting stuff back in to the chassis and I wanted to make sure I had order the right belt for front accessories and it worked out great.
Found a few spots that neede some touch up on the paint as well . Funny how fast these little cars fill up
Found a few spots that neede some touch up on the paint as well . Funny how fast these little cars fill up
Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #53
Ruff stuff and trail gear sells this weld on plate to add protection for that rocker tube
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
Universal Tube Reinforcement Single - Heavy-Duty DOM Tubing & Body Armor | RuffStuff Specialties
Premium universal tube reinforcement single for heavy-duty DOM tubing. Quality body armor and reinforcements for reliable protection. RuffStuff construction.
www.ruffstuffspecialties.com
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Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #55
Working on wiring and still all the small stuff that dose not photo well…. I was hoping to see tires this week but it sounds like 2-3 more weeks still
Making my own wiring harness for the chassis stuff and the holly terminator for the engine I’m also going to pull some of their harness apart and move the fuel pump relay and fuse in to the fuse box to clean it up but not going to do that until it runs 1st
Making my own wiring harness for the chassis stuff and the holly terminator for the engine I’m also going to pull some of their harness apart and move the fuel pump relay and fuse in to the fuse box to clean it up but not going to do that until it runs 1st
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
Hell yeah! So what do you think overall of the Terminator X setup? I have been debating whether or no it is worth cutting up a stock engine harness and re-flashing a factory computer or just going all aftermarket for my application.
EDIT:
Looks like you are running '99-'04 outers with 1480 joints and 35 spline shafts? Any worries with the 42/43" stickies you have planned?
My buddy has been unhappy with the durability of the Nitro 1480 joints in the front of his buggy and says the bushing style U-joints suck and he's on 40" K-specs and 3,700-3,800 Lbs (LQ4, TH400, Atlas). He has also twisted 35 spline 4340 Yukons so I am curious how you think your front 4130 shafts are going to hold up. His experiences have me planning on building with 1550 U-joints or maybe even CP750N joints (I have an '07 Dana 60) to get away from bushing-style U-joints, but I like hearing other people's perspectives.
EDIT:
Looks like you are running '99-'04 outers with 1480 joints and 35 spline shafts? Any worries with the 42/43" stickies you have planned?
My buddy has been unhappy with the durability of the Nitro 1480 joints in the front of his buggy and says the bushing style U-joints suck and he's on 40" K-specs and 3,700-3,800 Lbs (LQ4, TH400, Atlas). He has also twisted 35 spline 4340 Yukons so I am curious how you think your front 4130 shafts are going to hold up. His experiences have me planning on building with 1550 U-joints or maybe even CP750N joints (I have an '07 Dana 60) to get away from bushing-style U-joints, but I like hearing other people's perspectives.
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Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #58
I was in the same boat before I went holly…. I had the ecm but the harness was cut and wasn’t worth fixing so I priced it out keeping the stock ecm and getting a harness. By the time I did all the math it wasnt much more to just go with the holly
But I’m really happy with it super easy to work with fires up with out any troubles I would get one and I’ll get one more for my 59 Chevy Down the road.
As for the axles yeah 99-04 stuff I’ve gotten all them for next to free so that’s why I’m running it. we’ll see how long the Yukons last but the plan is to get better shafts or 40 spline later on once founds let me. The u joints are definitely not the weak leak. If money was not a problem or I had to buy everything 05+ and and branik Direct drive stop shafts
'84 Bronco II
El Chingón
My buddy hasn't broken the Nitro joints, but he's been having to rebuild them about once a year even with regular greasing which isn't cheap. Sounds like you've had better luck? I'm not critiquing your build, just trying trying to get other perspectives.
I've had my eyes on the Branik and Ouverson direct spline outer setups. Braniks are designed for 1550 joints and the Ouversons use CP750N. I just wonder how a standard needle bearing 1550 or CP750N compares strength-wise to a bushing-style 1480. If I recall correctly, Spicer rates a 1550 as ~30% stronger than a standard 1480.
Tjjared
Beer
- Thread starter
- #60
No worries man! I have had a few wear out and some I can’t wear out I think there is lot of factors but i look at it as a maintenance /wear thing now just like ball joint eliminators are added to the list.
I had a buddy run the oversons and he had issues with their workmanship and broke a few. I would go with a bushing kind of joint over needle bearings as I’ve had a few joints fail due to needles getting crushed even if Yukon/ nitros have play your not going to brake one.
I had a buddy run the oversons and he had issues with their workmanship and broke a few. I would go with a bushing kind of joint over needle bearings as I’ve had a few joints fail due to needles getting crushed even if Yukon/ nitros have play your not going to brake one.
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