Basically Stock CJ-7 - UPDATE

Well, about time for some updates :flipoff2::flipoff2:

Finished the cargo tie downs and finally got the frame installed for the deck. Then I could run the "three sides and down" vent for the fuel tank which is supported by the deck frame on the driver side.

When I filled the tank I learned two things; it holds 18.5 gallons, and it leaked around the fuel pump. I had tried to seal standard 1/4" x 20 threads with sealant. The solution was to cut a stack of three cork gaskets and put the sealant on them.
 

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Now that the rear axle is in I could mount the flares. The jig I made to mock up the tire worked great! I ended up trimming the flares quite a bit...
 

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Next up was the deck. Not too bad for rattle can! :grinpimp:
 

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One more of the deck, for effect. Ultimately it will end up mostly covered by spare tire, although I might end up leaving the spare on the trailer...

Also got the front axle installed. Nothing you haven't already seen, just painted and greased now. :D

And after 12 freaken hours of bleeding brakes she's ready for a test drive!
 

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Cjoe7 said: Looks amazing, the little details make all the difference. Although I may be partial biased towards white cj's
Click to expand...
Thanks! The other day my wife asked "does it look like a Jeep again?" I have to say I was a little confused, I've worked hard to keep it from looking like a Juggy or Comp cut Jeep. (nothing against them, I just like my Jeeps like I like my beer - full bodied :))

So I asked her what she meant - "well, does it have tires on it?"

So I guess that defines what makes a Jeep a look like a Jeep, its got to have big tires!
 
The shake down drive was a mixed bag.

Pro:
1) There was a couple inches clearance driving under a standard height garage door, later found out I was only running 8-12 psi in the tires. :homer:
2) The ride was acceptable for Swampers in this range.
3) The steering was great.
4) The engine has never run this good before. The revised intake, exhaust and a bump in fuel pressure to 12 psi really woke the 304 up!

Con:
Clutch pedal is very hard.
Brakes go nearly to the floor.
Small coolant leak from heater core.
Larger coolant leak where the fan and shroud got in a fight and the radiator was collateral damage. :mad3:

I didn't realize how close the fan and shroud were at the top. In the picture below you can see how the grill tips the radiator back, but the fan is nearly vertical because I raised the tranny over 2 inches. Hope to have it back on the road this weekend with a re-cored radiator, new heater core and new blower motor (might as well upgrade while I'm in there).

Then the punch list includes a bunch of little stuff, the skid plate, and the tire hoist left. I'm feeling pretty good despite the setback!

On the clutch I'll take a look at the geometry this winter. On the brakes I'm hoping a longer rod will solve the problem, but its likely that the disk/drum master is not up to moving the rear calipers.
 

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Winch Tech

Well, while we wait for the radiator to get re-cored, might as well share a little winch tech!

I picked up an 8274 off Ebay, local and cheep since the seller wasn't willing to ship. It was sprayed with an awful green/red camo pattern and came with a ghetto bumper since the owner couldn't break one of the bolts loose.

I won't go into the teardown and replacement of bushings, bearings, seals, and addition of fill/drain plugs. That's pretty well covered elsewhere. Here are two good references:
Blackjack's Thread
FlintKnapper's Thread

I will add I used Duplicolor wheel paint in Silver and Charcoal. The Charcoal is a pretty good match for the Warn Argent powdercoat, it just has a little too much metal flake as you can see in the pic below. The motor is factory Warn Argent.
 

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OK, OK, be patient, I'm getting to the tech :flipoff2::flipoff2:

My first winch was a MileMarker hydraulic on a Tahoe. It taught me the value of fast no-load line speeds. I can't count the number of times the line got driven over and/or wrapped around an axle... From there I went to a HS9500i on the CJ-7, which I loved, and a M6000 on the Samurai.

My 8274 came with an old, tired 2.5 HP motor. I knew the XP motor is a popular upgrade, but couldn't believe you don't give something up by going to the 6 HP motor. So I called Warn, found out that the 8274 and HS9500 use the same motor, noticed that the XP has half the line speed and jumped to the conclusion that the 6 HP motor has a lower no load RPM. So I bought the 4.6 HP motor that comes on modern 8274's.

Today called Warn and got a little more info. All the 4.6 HP motors listed below are the exact same motor. That's right, you can save $30 or more by ordering a motor for an XD9000 rather than a HS9500. The 8274 motor does include the spur gear, but otherwise is also identical. The rep said the drawing for the motor listed it as 4,900 rpm @ 125A under no load.

Then I looked at no-load speed for the XP and XD9000 and realized that there is no loss of no-load speed going to the XP motor. I've outsmarted myself again!
 

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While the control pack on my winch worked, it was missing the cover, socket and remote control. So I decided to upgrade to a contactor.

Warn recommended P/N 83664 - Mid Frame Contactor Pack. If you plan to mount the control pack to the motor you will have to fab your own bracket. This would have been fine, but I really wanted to stay with my old school remote and the "D" plug on this control pack can't be removed as near as I can tell.

Instead I went with P/N 36941 - 12 Volt Control Pack. This is from the industrial line and was supposed to come with contactor 34977 which is also used in the control pack for the Series 15 DC winch. Depending on which drawing on GoWarn.com you look at its max duty cycle is 525 Amps for 30 seconds every 10 min OR 561 Amps for 48 seconds every 10 min. The contactor that actually shipped with the control pack was P/N 36729. I don't know it's specs for sure, but it measured 4 13/16" W x 2 3/8" D x 3 3/4" H. For comparison, the Albright DC88p measures 100mm (3.92") W x 66mm (2.61") D x 97mm (3.8") H with the posts pointed up. It is rated for 100A continuous, 185A @ 30% duty cycle, and the curve shows will handle 500A for about 30 seconds... well beyond what these motors can tolerate. The main advantage of the Warn over the Albright is that it uses a triple contactor that enables the winch to stop operating even if a contactor welds itself shut. I've never seen this happen and don't know anyone that has, but it sounds like a good way to ruin your day!

I liked that this control pack was set up to mount to the motor with band clamps and had a socket that could be swapped out. I used a three wire socket for the remote, P/N 16296. It was a simple matter of drilling out the rivets on the industrial socket and bolting up the old school socket - perfect fit! I did have to switch which terminal the black and green wires connected to.

I used 2/0 welding cable with heavy duty terminals and this required slightly longer bolts.

I also went with 80' of 7/16" Diamond rope from Custom Splice (nice vendor, highly recommended). My thinking was thicker rope would be easier to pull, and 8274's have a reputation for being hard to free spool. Also, I would get down to the inner wraps faster and be less likely to bunch up when side pulling. Finally, we have so many trees I rarely need a lot of line, and got an extension for those rare occasions when you have to really reach out and touch somebody.

Ta Da! one more item checked off the list!
 

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cj8scrambled said: Awesome info above.....as I will be refurbing my older 8274 soon.

Awesome build BTW...I love it.
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Thanks! If you end up getting the 83664 Control Pack, post up the part number for the contactor - I couldn't find that info anywhere...
 
Overdue for an update. Built the skid plate, 105 lbs. of 1/4" plate and 1x2 channel. Basic idea is that there are no dams to prevent the mud and water draining...

A ton of little things; clutch adjustment, wiring, speedometer cable that was fed in backwards :confused:, and the bikini top.
 

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...and we are back where we started, on the trail with my wife giving us a Pirate salute! :flipoff2::flipoff2:
 

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Walked this without slipping a tire...
 

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...but was denied on this one.
 

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I've always run 1310 u-joints. I suspect the axle builder switched yokes front/rear and I didn't catch the poor fit. :homer:
 
Thanks!!!

Staying with 1310's for now. I'm pretty sure it was a mismatch between yoke and u-joint that caused the failure. :homer:
 
Thanks! In person it looks... wicked. But so far hasn't attracted Johnny Law. Some places I wheel you have to drive public roads to get to the trail. Other times I'll take it to club meetings.

Rebuilt rear driveshaft goes in this weekend, next trip out will be January 1st for our club's 18th Annual Hangover Run. If any Midwesterners want to meet up I'll be at the Badlands first thing in the morning!
 
On Dec 6, 2016 badlarry said:

Thanks! In person it looks... wicked. But so far hasn't attracted Johnny Law. Some places I wheel you have to drive public roads to get to the trail. Other times I'll take it to club meetings.

Rebuilt rear driveshaft goes in this weekend, next trip out will be January 1st for our club's 18th Annual Hangover Run. If any Midwesterners want to meet up I'll be at the Badlands first thing in the morning!
Click to expand...
Love how a low CG has a dual purpose, you tend to roll over less and hopefully get pulled over less....
 
Not much progress to report. Clearanced a front bump stop where it kissed the shock. Chased down a few small leaks, installed a new rear yoke. Tom Woods did a great job refurbishing the driveshaft.

I did finish the spare tire hoist. Here are the bits and pieces. The bracket mounts the Hi-Lift to the rear bumper and the rest of the bits install in the arm I posted back when I was doing sheet metal work on the tub.
 

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This bracket serves a dual purpose, a hook for the hoist and a 1/2" carriage bolt goes through the square hole and holds the tire down on the deck. The square hole is offset to accommodate both spare and full size tire. To prevent theft, the bracket is flipped upside down so you need to gain access to the trunk to remove the tire.
 

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Here's the whole contraption in action. Note the cable goes from the tire, over two pulleys in the arm, down to a pulley on the bumper bracket, back up to the arm. Therefore, each inch the jack goes up lifts the tire 3 inches.
 

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The arm stores in the trunk, held there by two studs. In this shot you can also see how the carriage bolt comes through the deck and into the cross member that ties into the cage. The carriage bolt is long enough to hold down the full size tire, but needs a spacer with the spare. It looks like you can see the bolt above the cross member, but that's the flash reflecting off the spacer and then the bottom of the deck. Hopefully you get the idea.
 

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