Basically Stock CJ-7 - UPDATE

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

The gas tank tray bolts to the shock towers. I'm really tight on room, so I notched the tray for the upper links. At full stuff with the links at the top of their adjustment everything just clears. You can see the tank in the background of the last pic. More on that next time...

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Way past time for updates... I'm going to dwell a bit on the fuel tank because I'm doing something unusual and I feel it has wider application. I've seen a lot of posts about RCI fuel cells splitting seams. Here is an alternative I stumbled across from Tanks, Inc. It comes in both steel and stainless steel versions, I went with the later as I planned to do some modifications and didn't want to deal with coated steel.

The U2 universal tank is 36" wide and holds 18 gallons. To fit in a CJ or Wrangler you'd have to trim 1/4" or so from the end and fashion some straps to hold it down.

Here you can see the three factory holes for fuel level sender on the left, fill neck in the middle, and fuel pump on the right. You can also see the spot welds for the internal baffle near the middle. I've also marked where I'm planning to locate the fill neck. The side shot shows the 1-1/4" flange that would have to be trimmed a bit to fit between a CJ's wheel wells.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

This is what you see looking through the fuel pump hole. They've put a tray in the bottom to keep the Walbro pump from starving during acceleration, braking or cornering. I felt this tray was inadequate for offroad use so I won't be using it, instead I'll mount a GM truck pump on the other end of the tank. I'm using a Delphi pump, part number FG0271.

I got the idea from Goat Built's thread. I really wanted to run his fuel cell, but it just didn't fit in the space available. Then I noticed that his cell and the U2 tank were the same depth. I did purchase one of his pump mounting rings and rollover valve for the vent and I have to say how impressed I was with the quality of his products, his reasonable prices and excellent customer service.

The baffle has four 1-3/16" holes in it. I considered blocking these and installing a transfer pump to keep the smaller half where the pump will be full. I decided to use check valves instead to keep the pump from being left high and dry.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

To keep the impact of fuel slosh from damaging the check valves, I'll be running Alltech Baffles. This meant using a tube style fuel sender rather than the one on the GM pump or the one Tanks sells. This is a 70-10 Ohm unit from JAZ that should work with the stock CJ guage, part number 371-070-03. Sadly its only 11" long.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

I punched a few more holes in the tank, and found out it's actually 18 ga rather than the 16 they advertise (sigh).

From left to right: factory fuel sender hole, vent to the other side, fuel pump, factory fill that I'll block off, access hole for installing Alltech baffles (the block off plate for this connects to the vent from the other side), factory fuel pump hole that I'll block off, main vent, and fill neck.

I probably didn't need to have vents connecting the two sided of the tank, but I didn't want to be sitting on my side idling for 20 minutes and find out the check valves seal perfectly :D

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Speaking of check valves, I scored these from a mis-labeled Ebay sale, and I thought there were no more deals to be had on Ebay! It's kind of interesting to see the difference in how many threads they have and whether the ball is held in by a pin or snap ring. Also some differences in the washers, but I didn't care as I needed a larger washer. The valves are 1" in diameter and the holes a 1-3/16" so I picked up some nylon washers from McMaster-Carr.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Modern gasoline is total crap. Here's the goops I selected to deal with its aggressive nature. Gasoila green is a thread sealant specially formulated to work with the alcohol blends we have in the Midwest. The Permatex is a non-hardening urethane-based gasket sealant. The Black Magic is an epoxy I'll be using to seal the seam of the factory baffle. I wouldn't have had to do this if I'd used a transfer pump, but with the passive check valves I need to keep the fuel from draining back...

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

I sand blasted the baffle seam, coated it with epoxy, and (after it cured) installed the check valves, and Alltech baffles. The Alltech baffles were supposed to be enough for a 16 gallon tank and there were enough for both sides of my tank, hats off to another great Pirate vendor!

The Black Magic was a complete bitch to try and control. Very messy. Uncertain cure time. It wouldn't have been so bad but I didn't want to coat the whole tank as I was concerned about having enough threads on the check valve.

In the last pic you can see how I backed the new holes with 1/4" plate to tap for the screws. I sealed the threads with the blue Permatex rather than the Gasoila for easy disassembly/reassembly.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

On Nov 3, 2015 The Freeak said:

I know you're not using it, but...

That tray looks like a terrible idea: from the pics it appears to sit proud of the tank floor by at least an inch, thus leaving a lot of fuel to just sit in there never being used.

Or are the pics misrepresenting the construction?

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

It's an optical illusion, remarkable how hard it is to get decent pics inside a fuel tank :D

The tray is spot welded to the bottom of the tank. There are two entry ports at the front and back of the tray that are about 1/4" proud of the bottom so you're not missing much fuel in a 14" deep tank. My opinion is it probably works fine for the street crowd, most of these tanks end up in the back of a '32 Ford... However the tray isn't going to do much when you are laying on your side creeping up a ravine.

I actually ordered the standard version of the tank which does not have the tray. My plan was to use Holley's Hydramat and the Walbro TBI pump that Tank's sells. This would have been a LOT less trouble and considerably cheaper to boot. However, the tank that arrived had the tray and a call to Tanks revealed that both standard and fuel injection versions have the tray installed.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

More random pics from today. Here you can see the straps that hold the tank in. I placed them over the end panels figuring that was the strongest part of the tank. You can also see the exhaust and parking brake cable.

The parking brake cable is a universal set for Eldorado Calipers off of Ebay from thetojoman. The housing are 86" and 48" while the cable is 8" longer. I'm pretty sure this is Jim from Downey Offroad. Really brought back some memories of seeing their ads in the mags back in the late 70's and early 80's when I was living in Long Beach. I was driving a Scout 800A at the time and buying stuff from **** Cepek. It was a small 3 bay shop up in South Gate I think...

There's also a pic of the upper support for the gas tank. It has to be removed before the gas tank comes out so it bolts to the strut towers. The straps attach through some soft rubber pads used for vibration isolators.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

On Nov 8, 2015 Dpaps12 said:

Looks great. You aren't worried about that return line being in the gas? My Tbi would run like crap when I had my return down low.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Looks great. You aren't worried about that return line being in the gas? My Tbi would run like crap when I had my return down low.

Thanks for the tip, I wasn't aware this could be an issue. I am capping the vent (center quick disconnect) so if needed I'll use it for the return.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

On Nov 11, 2015 itchy said:

Great build that you have here. This is the first thread that I've read through from the start in about 2 years.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Thanks, but it really doesn't hold a candle to classics like the Mono Coil thread

My main motivation is not having someone link to this thread in Ghetto Fab and Hack Jobs :D

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

On Dec 7, 2015 badlarry said:

I just spent the last hour reading and studying your thread; you my friend have done some very nice work to say the least. What an inspiration. I found the build searching for sua d60 in hopes to shed some light on my upcoming project. Cj7, SBC, T18, d20, d70u, and gm d60.
Sub'd and looking forward to your future progress. At your leisure would you mind snapping a few pics of your sua setup as completed and installed? I'd love to see the finished product. Again, beautiful and functional work. Bravo....

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Thanks for the compliments, sounds like our builds have quite a lot in common.

Currently the axles, suspension and tranny cross member are removed for final weld and paint. Then the axles go out for gears. I'll post up some pics when it all goes back together in a couple of months :(

I'm thinking 5.86's and an ARB in the rear with Jack's 37 spline Drive Home axles. I'll leave the lockright up front for now and if anything fails make a Jana 76 using the Detroit currently in the rear. Any comments from Pirate?

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

On Dec 26, 2015 badlarry said:

Merry Christmas, I have a couple trivial xmas questions..
In post #2 prior to going under the knife, what were the rear Holbrook spring specs?
What's your WMS to WMS f/r, wheelbase (on leafs) and how wide are those (TJ?) flares? Thanks.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Merry Christmas, I have a couple trivial xmas questions..
In post #2 prior to going under the knife, what were the rear Holbrook spring specs?
What's your WMS to WMS f/r, wheelbase (on leafs) and how wide are those (TJ?) flares? Thanks.

I updated post #2 to answer most of your questions. Not sure what you are looking for on spring specs, but I gave a little more detail.

I'll post more pics soon, I promise! :flipoff2:

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Fuel lines are done. I went with 3/8" stainless. I would have preferred to run NiCop - much easier to work with. But copper leaches into gasoline and is a catalyst that creates varnish. Probably not a big deal on a daily driver, but something to consider on a trail rig. I chose Earl's fittings and Ultra-Flex hose. The Ultra-Flex has a Teflon liner so you don't have to worry about permeation - another big problem with today's fuels.

First pic show the quick disconnects at the fuel pump. You can also wee where I had to modify the frame to clear the lower links at full articulation.

You can see the 10 micron fuel filter in the second pic.

Third pic shows the brackets for the hard line. Kind of a shame to cover the stainless hose with the split wrap but I wanted to protect it from abrasion, plus it adds a little insulation.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

On Mar 31, 2016 88chevyjoe said:

any updates? How close is this baby to hitting the trails?

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

The purpose of this build thread is to share some tech. Well, not all my ideas are good ones...

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Case in point. When I was running the link calculator I noticed how sensitive my geometry was to upper link height. Just 1/4" made a substantial difference in anti-squat. Most adjustable upper mounts have like what, 1" or so between holes? So I decided to run the bolt vertical. This would allow me to use spacers and make very small changes in link height... Then I ran the numbers and found even with a 1" diameter, 180,000 psi bolt it will barely handle the force from the upper links. The issue is instead of the bolt being in pure shear, it becomes a simply supported beam... So, I would say don't do it like this.

Anyway, I finished fabbing the crossmember for the links. Its sandblasted and waiting for paint

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

I've been making some progress on fixing all the sheet metal I ripped out earlier. Here's the cover for the upper link mounts I mentioned above, I raised the floor under the seats about 5 inches. Also, the new bulkhead behind the seats.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

I'm going to install a diamond plate deck over the rear. Due to the shock tower and gas tank height I've got to raise it 3/4" above the top of the tub, so I'm building a rail with a bucket load of captive nuts. Right now I'm figuring out how to repackage my tools, cooler and recovery gear. Also, the spare tire mount is on my mind...

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

86chevyjoe said: any updates? How close is this baby to hitting the trails?

I am really looking forward to wheeling it this season. My current punch list looks like this:

Finish sheet metal (the last big fab job)
Paint sheet metal
Get drive homes from Jack
Axles to my gear guy for 5.86's and rear ARB
Paint a ton of axle and suspension parts
Rear hard lines for brakes
Fuel vent lines
Skidplate
Rebuild and wire winch
Adjust fuel pressure

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Well, progress has been slow, got side tracked gardening, helping friends with their projects, some nice family time with both daughters home...

But making some more progress. This is the panel that goes in front of the tool boxes. I've welded in nuts for the tie downs and built this hoist for the spare tire. Plan is to use the Hi-Lift jack and this contraption... we'll see if it works or not :D

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

Today I patched this hole over the wheel well. I'm not much of a sheet metal guy, but was pleased with how this came out.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

This crossbar is the hold down for the spare tire.

Kreep · Jan 26, 2022

The rail morphed into a tube frame bolts to the body and that crossbar. The idea is to support the deck well enough for people to walk on. Say, when buried in mud up to the tops of the tires and trying to hook up a winch cable. :D

Basically Stock CJ-7 - UPDATE

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