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Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Kreep
Rock God
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- #64
Also mounted the steering ram. It turned out that since the long side of the axle was shortened 4" there was not enough room to mount the ram behind the drag link, so I had to go over it. Sure hope this doesn't cause the drag link to roll and give me a dead spot in the steering... These shots are at full stuff, ram just clears the frame. On the drag link end this is what I came up with to keep the rod end in the correct plane. No speed holes or dimple dies on the axle mount, just 1/4" beef and a drain for the mud. 
Last shot shows exhaust and cross member clearance.
I'll probably have to shim the axle snubber down a little. Just have to see what happens on the trail.
Last shot shows exhaust and cross member clearance.
I'll probably have to shim the axle snubber down a little. Just have to see what happens on the trail.Attachments
Kreep
Rock God
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- #65
Also put a piece of 1/4" plate across the front of the frame. I couldn't find anyone local that could put a tight bend in it, so I ended up milling a slot a little over 1/8" deep and bending by hand, then filling the slot with weld. What a pain. In the first shot you can see the stair step that drops down to support the grill and the notch I had to put in it for the steering box. Also you can see the mark where I'm getting ready to trim the shackle mount for tire clearance. The recess for the winch was pieced together from pipe and several pieces of scrap. There are two big drain holes at the bottom...
I wanted this plate to provide a lot of torsional rigidity, but the notch for the steering box took most of it away so I boxed it in underneath from the corner of the winch recess to the frame and then back to the rear, sorry, didn't think to take a pic.
I wanted this plate to provide a lot of torsional rigidity, but the notch for the steering box took most of it away so I boxed it in underneath from the corner of the winch recess to the frame and then back to the rear, sorry, didn't think to take a pic.
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Kreep
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- #68
On Jan 2, 2014 Cheepin said:
I know your not asking me. But the way I have done it. Is by clamping a piece of angle iron down and then cutting a groove about an 1/8" deep on the outside of the bend. Using the angle as a cut guide. Then bend and weld the V that is left. I haven't notice them being wavy if you can handle the grinder.
Kreep
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- #69
On Jan 2, 2014 Action Fab said:
Basically what he said. I use a piece of flat bar since I don't use angle iron for building jeeps; you have to lay down a straight edge to slide the cutting disk down. If you do not the disk will walk and any irregularities with your cut will cause the bend to be uneven. It follows the cut precisely. I try to leave about an 1/8" of material. Anything more than that and it rips the metal when you bend. Make sure your cut is to the outside obviously.
Kreep
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- #70
It's hard to see in the first pic, but right above the pitman arm is the box around the steering box. It ties the frame to the recess for the winch to the back of the plate and adds a lot of torsional rigidity. In the second pic you can see pitman arm clearance is about 1/4"
Then on to build a hoop to protect the radiator and provide upper shock mounts. It's theoretically removable, we'll see how that works ;)
Then on to build a hoop to protect the radiator and provide upper shock mounts. It's theoretically removable, we'll see how that works ;)
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Kreep
Rock God
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- #71
I promised some info on fan clearance. It's tight at the top because I raised the tranny/transfer case like 2.5 inches and only raised the engine an inch. In the second pic you can see the diameter is a good match for the stock shroud.
So far I've raised the radiator 1.25" but it's still pretty tight, there's only 1/4" clearance to the steering box fittings. This is partly because the steering box has the O-ring style fittings. I've been told if it were from an older Astro Van it would have flare fittings and I'd have more clearance. I also wish I'd mounted the box 1/2" further to the rear.
So far I've raised the radiator 1.25" but it's still pretty tight, there's only 1/4" clearance to the steering box fittings. This is partly because the steering box has the O-ring style fittings. I've been told if it were from an older Astro Van it would have flare fittings and I'd have more clearance. I also wish I'd mounted the box 1/2" further to the rear.
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Kreep
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- #72
Until now I've been running manual brakes because if I stall on an obstacle I like to be able to back down on the brakes. With the bigger, heavier tires I decided it's time for some power assist. I was originally going to go with hydroboost but 1) the pump seems to have its hands full running quick through the trees and 2) I realized I could install a vacuum pump like the hotrod guys do so I wouldn't lose power assist even if I stall. So, thanks to Yager and his excellent write up on the JB7 brake upgrade. I spent some time with the parts guy and the 1995 C2500 seems like the best application. I wish it were a rear disk application but all of those use hydroboost...
Anyway, the dual diaphragm booster measures 10 3/4" in diameter and bolts up to a YJ bracket if you open the holes a little. I did all the opening at the bottom of the holes to increase hood clearance. Booster and master clear the hood by 1/4". I had to bend the driver side grill support rod and lengthen the rod. The rod has a 9/16" hole so I extended by welding on the end of a rod with a 1/2" hole so it plays well with the CJ pedal. I still have to work out clearance issues with the oil dipstick as you can see in this pic.
Anyway, the dual diaphragm booster measures 10 3/4" in diameter and bolts up to a YJ bracket if you open the holes a little. I did all the opening at the bottom of the holes to increase hood clearance. Booster and master clear the hood by 1/4". I had to bend the driver side grill support rod and lengthen the rod. The rod has a 9/16" hole so I extended by welding on the end of a rod with a 1/2" hole so it plays well with the CJ pedal. I still have to work out clearance issues with the oil dipstick as you can see in this pic.
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Kreep
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- #74
Ha ha! Good one! I have been slacking on the updates...
Found a junkyard cooler for the power steering system. The old one was in front of the radiator so I remote mounted it to the firewall in my quest to keep the engine cooler. Found some cute SPAL fans on ebay for about half of what Summit charges. I did get a thermal fan switch from Summit, it kicks on at 180 degrees. I'll mount the other fan if the single fan runs too much.
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Kreep
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- #75
Last thing I wanted to do on the intake is install a dual snorkel air cleaner. I like how the Jeep snorkel ties into the grill, during water crossings there's a nice pocket of air behind the headlight. However, the GM TBI air cleaner snorkel has a larger cross section than the stock Jeep snorkel. So I took the snorkel off two YJ cleaners and grafted them onto the GM cleaner body. I'm using the taller truck cleaner to stay in the guidelines on K&N's website. The second and third pics are of the two jigs I used to form the flanges.
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Kreep
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- #76
Ordered some new springs in from Deaver. I probably would have stuck with the Holbrook springs but I needed a larger front eye to accommodate their Baja Bushings. After going back and forth on the phone for weeks and waiting six more weeks I get the springs. Set up for spring over, wrong clips, way too stiff. I ended up pulling four leaves, flipping the center pin and reworking the clips so they clear my frame and steering. Being too stiff is my fault, they recommended a lot of thin leaves but I wanted a thicker main leaf that would hold up when I push the tire on a rock.
First pic is the modified Deaver pack under the Holbrook pack. Second is the shackles. Third you can see how the Baja Bushings take the stress out of the spring under articulation. This should help the springs last and also makes them softer, a twisted spring is harder to bend then one laying flat.
First pic is the modified Deaver pack under the Holbrook pack. Second is the shackles. Third you can see how the Baja Bushings take the stress out of the spring under articulation. This should help the springs last and also makes them softer, a twisted spring is harder to bend then one laying flat.
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Kreep
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- #77
On Jun 20, 2014 ddestruel said
YUP.
I see a different fan than you first were searching for was selected.
I’ll withhold any comments on hydroboost vs vacuum since decission has been made and other factors were involved ........ buttttttt :D
IIRC i stole the plastic snorkel tubes to got from the fenders to the dual air filter intake on mine from a grand marquie or an early ford crown vic with TBI 302. was like ford and jeep were in cohorts with our dual snorkel ideas. i had to revert back while in moab due to PS over heating when mounted under my hood and in a pinch routing lines and a giant RV PS cooler infront of my radiator but it ended all PS issues for me.
Nice choice on those springs and the big main leaf. wish i would have gone thicker on my rear main and my front mains probably would benefit from it too.
loving the build, you’re doing some of the stuff i wish i would have done and got some great fab going on...... now I’m thinking i need to do a tear down.... lol
Here you see the supply/return lines. I ordered two bypass hoses, cut them to length and spliced them to the 1/2" hose with adapters from McMaster Carr.
I hope this performs half as good as it looks. I'm a little worried that the runners are too large and I'll get fuel drop out at low rpm. If so, I guess I'll just have to go hunting for a 401, right ddestruel?
YUP.
I see a different fan than you first were searching for was selected.
I’ll withhold any comments on hydroboost vs vacuum since decission has been made and other factors were involved ........ buttttttt :D
IIRC i stole the plastic snorkel tubes to got from the fenders to the dual air filter intake on mine from a grand marquie or an early ford crown vic with TBI 302. was like ford and jeep were in cohorts with our dual snorkel ideas. i had to revert back while in moab due to PS over heating when mounted under my hood and in a pinch routing lines and a giant RV PS cooler infront of my radiator but it ended all PS issues for me.
Nice choice on those springs and the big main leaf. wish i would have gone thicker on my rear main and my front mains probably would benefit from it too.
loving the build, you’re doing some of the stuff i wish i would have done and got some great fab going on...... now I’m thinking i need to do a tear down.... lol
Kreep
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- #78
Thanks! Yeah, I'm gonna love some choices and regret others. Guess that's life...
I was talking to a parts counter guy about fans and he relayed the story of coworker admiring a classic ride, he reached out to the carb, revved the engine and BOOM, the fan let go. So I decided a new Hummer fan sounded safer than a 40 year old Caddy fan.
Snorkels are tight, I can see why you had to pull one. I'll have some pics up later, right now I've torn everything down for final welding and paint.
I was talking to a parts counter guy about fans and he relayed the story of coworker admiring a classic ride, he reached out to the carb, revved the engine and BOOM, the fan let go. So I decided a new Hummer fan sounded safer than a 40 year old Caddy fan.
Snorkels are tight, I can see why you had to pull one. I'll have some pics up later, right now I've torn everything down for final welding and paint.
Kreep
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- #80
On Jun 20, 2014 ddestruel said:
Heck. That's evolution of a project. If you listened to everyone else's opinions it'd be their project not yours and we'd all be driving what 4wheeler says works best. Lol.
I'm taking notes. I need to rework my springs. Change a few things and stiffen up some I'm watch your progress closely. Later on when You go 401 you'll really be in it deep
Heck. That's evolution of a project. If you listened to everyone else's opinions it'd be their project not yours and we'd all be driving what 4wheeler says works best. Lol.
I'm taking notes. I need to rework my springs. Change a few things and stiffen up some I'm watch your progress closely. Later on when You go 401 you'll really be in it deep
Kreep
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- #81
Here's my take on a shock hoop. It saddles the frame and attaches through the holes for the stock shock tower. It loops up high enough to protect the radiator should I roll. It incorporates a lower cross member with a pinion snubber and provision for mounting the front of the skid plate and the brake proportioning valve. Connecting the ends of the hoop should stiffen the frame considerably - much needed on a CJ frame near the motor mounts. The whole thing can be removed to facilitate installation of the 401 ddestruel is going to find for me :D
Regarding orientation of the shock bolts, maybe it's obvious, but the lower mount should be crosswise to the axle to allow it to articulate. The upper bolt should be more or less parallel to the axle since the lower end of the shock only moves inward 3/4" when it articulates, but about 3" forward and back as it goes from full compression to full droop.
Regarding orientation of the shock bolts, maybe it's obvious, but the lower mount should be crosswise to the axle to allow it to articulate. The upper bolt should be more or less parallel to the axle since the lower end of the shock only moves inward 3/4" when it articulates, but about 3" forward and back as it goes from full compression to full droop.
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Kreep
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On Jul 3, 2014 ddestruel said:
heck there are some good deals out there for 401’s. crap deal is you’re mid west they are much more prevalent in the western states, back then gas was cheap and guys needed a hp to pass on the passes.
they usually pop up $400-600 running in stock used form these days heck theres one on ebay in utah
the shipping would probably be $300 damn near as much as the engine, shame but your location kills or maybe not. my last 401, prior to the one I’m running now (that i dumped too much into but sure love) i paid $200 for, took it home lapped the valves, put new seals on, polished crank with emery cloth, put in some std bearings, honed cylinders with ball hone, used cast rings on the stock pistons, slipped in a meaner cam that i had, ran ARP head bolts, arp rod bolts and arp main bolts (I’m a firm believer in new fasteners), and new oil pump kit. the whole sha’ree from mad dog racing worth of parts couldn’t have been $300 + $300 in ARP crap. did nothing else to it and beat the piss out of it for 8 years running 20/50 motor oil and the darn thing just ran. heck i dint even turn the flywheel i just wire wheeled an old flywheel, stuffed a cheap napa clutch on it and went. LOL the funning thing is i should have bored it the taper in those cylinders was scary with 150k miles on that motor.... now its totally freshened up .030 9:1 forged pistons, chromoly rings, a mild voodoo cam from lunati, TBI ..... i always say i should have gone bigger on cam but the motor is so torquie off the line and off road i can’t complain other than when i wish i had rpms past 4k lol
with a 401 swap you’re glutten for punishment
Looking forward to more updates
heck there are some good deals out there for 401’s. crap deal is you’re mid west they are much more prevalent in the western states, back then gas was cheap and guys needed a hp to pass on the passes.
they usually pop up $400-600 running in stock used form these days heck theres one on ebay in utah
the shipping would probably be $300 damn near as much as the engine, shame but your location kills or maybe not. my last 401, prior to the one I’m running now (that i dumped too much into but sure love) i paid $200 for, took it home lapped the valves, put new seals on, polished crank with emery cloth, put in some std bearings, honed cylinders with ball hone, used cast rings on the stock pistons, slipped in a meaner cam that i had, ran ARP head bolts, arp rod bolts and arp main bolts (I’m a firm believer in new fasteners), and new oil pump kit. the whole sha’ree from mad dog racing worth of parts couldn’t have been $300 + $300 in ARP crap. did nothing else to it and beat the piss out of it for 8 years running 20/50 motor oil and the darn thing just ran. heck i dint even turn the flywheel i just wire wheeled an old flywheel, stuffed a cheap napa clutch on it and went. LOL the funning thing is i should have bored it the taper in those cylinders was scary with 150k miles on that motor.... now its totally freshened up .030 9:1 forged pistons, chromoly rings, a mild voodoo cam from lunati, TBI ..... i always say i should have gone bigger on cam but the motor is so torquie off the line and off road i can’t complain other than when i wish i had rpms past 4k lol
with a 401 swap you’re glutten for punishment
Looking forward to more updates
Kreep
Rock God
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- #84
Fired it up for the first time in over a year and pulled it across the way to my friend's shop to use his scales and lift to calculate the center of gravity in preparation for linking the rear. :D
The height is a little deceptive in the pics, I'm at 20" to the frame at 5 psi right now.
The height is a little deceptive in the pics, I'm at 20" to the frame at 5 psi right now.
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Kreep
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- #85
On Sep 15, 2014 B.A.R.K said:
Looks great. I love everything about this rig. What are you plans for the rear? Doesn't look like you've got much up travel now.
Looks great. I love everything about this rig. What are you plans for the rear? Doesn't look like you've got much up travel now.
Kreep
Rock God
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- #87
Sep 16, 2014
Right now I'm in 4-Link calculator hell, more to follow on that...
Its a porker at 5,205 lbs. with me in it (I weigh 200). However, that doesn't include skid plates, rear winch, front axle shaft or all the steel going into the rear suspension. I will loose the drums off the Dana 70 and the leaf springs but I'm still expecting to gain about 300 lbs.
Thanks! I'm thinking lower it an inch in the rear, 12" ORI's frenched into the frame and whack the **** out of the tub but I'm open to ideas :D
Right now I'm in 4-Link calculator hell, more to follow on that...
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Kreep
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- #88
On Sep 16, 2014 matts88yj said:
Awesome work on notching the front housing for SUA. I have a 79 HP60 and have been researching ways to notch the housing like you have and it gave me a few ideas. Also great overall build! Looking back, do you wish you would have linked the front rather than keep it on leafs?
Awesome work on notching the front housing for SUA. I have a 79 HP60 and have been researching ways to notch the housing like you have and it gave me a few ideas. Also great overall build! Looking back, do you wish you would have linked the front rather than keep it on leafs?
Kreep
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- #89
My Sammi has leaves up front and is linked in the rear. I love the way it behaves on Midwest trails; stable on sidehills, no hop when you put the power down. (OK, I know Samurai and "put the power down" don't really belong in the same sentence!)
Anyway, that's what I'm trying to achieve here. I like the front very stable and the rear to just sort of float over the terrain. I'm not that concerned with flex or uptravel, just looking to cure the axle hop. I also need to be able to drive on the road so full hydro was out and a lot of times linking the front leads to full hydro.
So I won't really know until I get it out on the trail and learn what the new limits are.
I will say there are times I wish I'd dropped down to a 36" tire and kept leaves all the way around...
Kreep
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- #90
On Sep 16, 2014 B.A.R.K said:
"Hey, You don't have any up travel."
"Good, I'll lower it some more."
It looks like you've already put quite a bit of work it to retaining the stock sheet metal appearance, so I hope you'll continue that theme with the rear sheet metal. Looking forward to what you come up with.
I like you thought process.
"Hey, You don't have any up travel."
"Good, I'll lower it some more."
It looks like you've already put quite a bit of work it to retaining the stock sheet metal appearance, so I hope you'll continue that theme with the rear sheet metal. Looking forward to what you come up with.