What did you do for your ford today?

This started a couple of weeks ago, the old seat was out of a '70s ford and the seat in our "parts truck" was also in poor condition.
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So we had this built.
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Unfortunately I missed something in my measurements and it was too tall, so I had to shorten it two inches.:homer:
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Click to expand...

We don't need a passenger seat and are currently waiting a box to mount on that side.
 
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Yesterday after work I found the door handle on my 01 f350 hanging out like someone had reefed on it trying to open it. Couldn't get it to work right so I pulled it out today, cleaned and lubed it. Looks like someone just hauled on it trying to get the door open and jammed the linkage up some. Gonna set a trail cam on my center console tomorrow while I'm at work.
 
Got the bed back on mine. Only held with two bolts until I pick up more hardware. Got the bed lights wired up and then realized that the cab and bed wiring are on separate circuits, causing all the lights to continue flashing quickly. It ran great again during a test drive.
 
Bolted a dually rim to the front pintle hitch plate for counter weight.
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Will go to a CAT scale to weigh the Bronco/see what the front axle weighs with said set up.

Factory front axle weight rating is 2,800lbs.
With nothing on the front/camper on, 200lbs of weight shifted rearward.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Bolted a dually rim to the front pintle hitch plate for counter weight.
1643500166129.png


Will go to a CAT scale to weigh the Bronco/see what the front axle weighs with said set up.

Factory front axle weight rating is 2,800lbs.
With nothing on the front/camper on, 200lbs of weight shifted rearward.
Click to expand...
What are you trying to accomplish?
 
I started mine this morning, 2 deg above zero, it took a hot minute for the oil pressure to come up. I then drove it for an hour to pick up an old shell of a snowmobile for a project. She has a great heater in it for sure. I should probably run thinner oil in it. 15-40
 
M92PV4U said:
What are you trying to accomplish?
Click to expand...
As I mentioned; counter weight.

Putting the camper on shifted 200+lbs rearward; which means the front axle is lighter.
By having the bigass pintle hitch and dually steel wheel on, shift some of the weight back to the front axle.
As I stated; I'm going to a CAT scale to weigh and see what the front weight is.

During the Spring/Summer/Fall I use a rack to carry water, which also doubles as a counter weight.
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CDA 455 II said:
As I mentioned; counter weight.

Putting the camper on shifted 200+lbs rearward; which means the front axle is lighter.
By having the bigass pintle hitch and dually steel wheel on, shift some of the weight back to the front axle.
As I stated; I'm going to a CAT scale to weigh and see what the front weight is.
Click to expand...
:homer: missed the bottom text.
Do you have a plan for permanently installing the front weight?
 
Idled it in the garage on 2.5yo summer gas long enough to confirm that it runs well enough and leaks minimally enough I could drive it on the street for the first time in 2.5yr were there not a non-running car with 1-3ft of build up snow packed around it blocking it in.
 
CDA 455 II said:
Bolted a dually rim to the front pintle hitch plate for counter weight.
1643500166129.png


Will go to a CAT scale to weigh the Bronco/see what the front axle weighs with said set up.

Factory front axle weight rating is 2,800lbs.
With nothing on the front/camper on, 200lbs of weight shifted rearward.
Click to expand...
For the halibut; I mounted a second dually rim before weighing figuring it's easier to unbolt than to bolt while at the weigh station.

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Weighed it:
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Got the front axle back to factory weight.:smokin:

The set up only sticks out 27" beyond the bumper; well within the 36" limit.:beer:
 
Re-installed the sway bar/had clearance issues with said sway bar and flipped 1ton TREs.
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Flipped the links/had to swap sides for it to work.
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Also; had to move the frame mounts forward to clear the coil springs (drilled new holes):
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With sway bar installed; handling and body roll really improved.:smokin:
And it didn't cost me a dime.:grinpimp:
 
CDA 455 II said:
Re-installed the sway bar/had clearance issues with said sway bar and flipped 1ton TREs.


Flipped the links/had to swap sides for it to work.


Also; had to move the frame mounts forward to clear the coil springs (drilled new holes):


With sway bar installed; handling and body roll really improved.:smokin:
And it didn't cost me a dime.:grinpimp:
Click to expand...
And can you fully stuff the suspension without crashing the sway bar into the frame and bending an end link?
 
Drove it up a local mountain (Santiago Peak, 5,689ft) as a test. 2 years ago I put a new motor in this thing, got it to pass smog and had an embarrassing trip introducing a buddy to "off-roading". The truck overheated 1/3 of the way up and we had to turn around. This cascaded into me doing all the usual cooling-system troubleshooting (water pump even though it was new, 335/Cleveland engine-family thermostat triple-checking, replace the manual fan with a fancy PWM controlled MKVIII fan. I've bitched about this a lot on here.

None of that really solved the problem, in fact it just introduced more things to troubleshoot. Long story short, I installed the EGR valve with the wrong gasket (blocking the exhaust port) which made my smog-calibrated 2-bbl carburetor run super lean under load causing the initial hot temperatures.

Also, the sensor I installed for my fan-controller was a strip of copper that wrapped around the aluminum radiator outflow (came with the controller). This style was too slow to read the temperature changes. Finally installed an inline-radiator-hose sensor and everything works how it should. HUGE day of success. Now I can get back to fun ****.
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