-
Last Call Guest on these Group Buy Deal Items from Baja Designs
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #242
Well this escalated quickly, all I can say is at least it isnt a 1st gen dodge because with this many mice it would have been a convertible. 
I hate rodents, why are there nuts in my roof!!!
Cut out a section above each door, then some above windshield, and the back area. At least the outer roof and windshield flange is still in good shape.
This will be a down and dirty repair, I dont feel like pulling the windshield so it's staying. Going to cut all these areas out of the parts truck. For the sections right at the windshield , those will get glued in with some Loctite PL construction adhesive. And probably glue the sections above doors.
Will weld in the back repair for the window flange.
I hate rodents, why are there nuts in my roof!!!
Cut out a section above each door, then some above windshield, and the back area. At least the outer roof and windshield flange is still in good shape.
This will be a down and dirty repair, I dont feel like pulling the windshield so it's staying. Going to cut all these areas out of the parts truck. For the sections right at the windshield , those will get glued in with some Loctite PL construction adhesive. And probably glue the sections above doors.
Will weld in the back repair for the window flange.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
**** I don't like seeing that. I just did my semi yearly checkup on my 63 sitting in my parents field and it now has a hole about the size of a pinky in the eyebrow on driver side. I really don't want to pull the roof skin off though it's not terrible to do on the 60s GM's. Also on one hand it would give me a good opportunity to do sound deadening\insulation along with drilling\wiring for my cab lights.... and the windshield gasket needs replaced anyhow....
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #244
I did not expect to find that at all when I dropped the headliner. Only good thing is I have a parts truck to cut all the patches out of, and the outer skin is still good.
Planning to pull the dash here to clean out any mouse nests behind it or in the heater/AC box.
Planning to pull the dash here to clean out any mouse nests behind it or in the heater/AC box.
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #245
Got the roof all patched back together. To get the generic Fusor metal bonder and the special gun is $100, this cost $7 at lowes. It is a polyurethane adhesive, i have used a ton of it for construction tasks, I think it will hold good. If it doesn't I wont know because the headliner will cover it.
Welded this in along the back, hid the seam where the rear window seal covers. Real happy that the rust was confined to what is covered by the seal.
Put a coat of duraglass over weld seam and knocked down with 80 grit.
Glue on inside
Welded this in along the back, hid the seam where the rear window seal covers. Real happy that the rust was confined to what is covered by the seal.
Put a coat of duraglass over weld seam and knocked down with 80 grit.
Glue on inside
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #246
Pulled front headlights and grille, starting to get it prepped for paint. I ordered a gallon of single stage urethane wimbledon white for it.
Anyone have any tips for what grit is best to start with for sanding out corrosion on polished wheels? I actually have not done this before, usually I sandblast and paint them. I got the clear stripped off of 2 of the alcoas, and now time to sand out the corrosion and repolish and re clearcoat them.
Also got 4 generic 31x10.50 all terrains for it, $500 shipped from priority tire. Supposed to have a 60k mile treadwear warranty.
Anyone have any tips for what grit is best to start with for sanding out corrosion on polished wheels? I actually have not done this before, usually I sandblast and paint them. I got the clear stripped off of 2 of the alcoas, and now time to sand out the corrosion and repolish and re clearcoat them.
Also got 4 generic 31x10.50 all terrains for it, $500 shipped from priority tire. Supposed to have a 60k mile treadwear warranty.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
If those are armstrong tru-tracs they are pretty decent on rd.
As for polishing I just always hit them lightly with little water in spray bottle and 440 then mothers wheel polish with the ball on drill.
As for polishing I just always hit them lightly with little water in spray bottle and 440 then mothers wheel polish with the ball on drill.
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #249
They are Armstrong tru tracs, they kinda remind me of Cooper AT3s and I like how those tires ride/wear.
Last time I bought off brand tires they didnt balance well, hopefully these run smooth.
I am going to start with 400 grit wet, and work my way up to 2000. There is some nasty corrosion that needs sanded out before any buffing.
Not sure if I want to use wheel sealer or re clear them. I have un cleared wheels on my dodge, and they dont look bad for being run through 2 winters and zero maintenance done thus far.
When there is clear coat on them it looks nicer longer with less maintenance, but you always get nasty corrosion under the clear. I am thinking leave them bare, and apply wheel sealer after final polishing. Either way they are gonna look sharp with the fresh paint job on the old ford.
I did a similar inner roof method when I sunroof deleted my Bronco. The outer was welded ofc, but the inner was pop-rivets and seam sealer. I put a couple layers of pink insulation board in between the roof layers before the inner went on, just for noise n whatnot. The headliner covered all that up and it looks great. Got some eBay headliner material and 3m contact adhesive and did it myself.
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #251
I wish 2nd gen dodge dashes were this easy to remove, and the dash doesnt have one crack in it. Found some mouse nest behind it, and there is a bunch where the fresh air intake to heater box is. Gross. All this stuff will get cleaned with bleach.
If you leaned a 2nd gen dodge dash like this, probably get iniured by flying plastic shrapnel.
Body work on roof, I kinda put a warp in it on right of cargo light. So getting that fixed up with some mud, and fixed the hole someone put in the roof for a cb antenna.
Removed glass and stuff from doors, and the windshield molding without completing destroying it.
Whoever painted this truck before didnt remove anything, painted around belt molding, vent window seals, door handles, headlights. Only took 30 mins to gut both doors for paint. Even though this is a quicky work truck paint job, its so much easier to remove stuff than to attempt to mask around it, and still get paint all over everything.
If you leaned a 2nd gen dodge dash like this, probably get iniured by flying plastic shrapnel.
Body work on roof, I kinda put a warp in it on right of cargo light. So getting that fixed up with some mud, and fixed the hole someone put in the roof for a cb antenna.
Removed glass and stuff from doors, and the windshield molding without completing destroying it.
Whoever painted this truck before didnt remove anything, painted around belt molding, vent window seals, door handles, headlights. Only took 30 mins to gut both doors for paint. Even though this is a quicky work truck paint job, its so much easier to remove stuff than to attempt to mask around it, and still get paint all over everything.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Yeah I don't mind being covered in mud, oil, grease etc. Touch one thing that had mouse house in it and I'm ready to go scrub myself with bleach and steel wool. YUK.
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #253
Painted some stuff, now the front end can go back together. And my favorite thing to do, run brake lines. 
This el cheapo pressure pot gun works nice for upside down painting if you dont have a lift. Sprays chassis saver half decent.
Removal of old ttb bushing with only a chisel bit on the air hammer.
Installed new ones like a civilized person.
This el cheapo pressure pot gun works nice for upside down painting if you dont have a lift. Sprays chassis saver half decent.
Removal of old ttb bushing with only a chisel bit on the air hammer.
Installed new ones like a civilized person.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
I don't know if you have junked the parts truck yet but would you be willing to let go of the stubs, spindles and wheel hubs? I have a idea I want to verify and before I give a junkyard money.....
I have a parts bronco I'm getting rid of if this doesn't work out.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Not sure what shipping them might run. obviously if you are getting ready to scrap it let me know. I'm keeping my eyes peeled locally too.
No problem I didn't think anything of it earlier and just had a thought I wanted to try out using kinda junk parts. If I was yo I would probably soak them for a day or two in white vinegar then oil them and throw them on shelf for spares but then I'm told I have a hoarding problem.
Alexis700
tomboy
- Thread starter
- #258
Doing stuff again, rear axle is all assembled with new drum brake stuff.
My favorite thing to do ever, brake lines. Going to replace all the lines with the nicop ones, so never have to worry about them rusting out.
New seals in the front pumpkin.
REmoved old axle u joints with fire, cut cross out with torch and air hammer caps in. These were rusty enough I didnt feel like fighting with them.
TTB going back together.
My favorite thing to do ever, brake lines. Going to replace all the lines with the nicop ones, so never have to worry about them rusting out.
New seals in the front pumpkin.
REmoved old axle u joints with fire, cut cross out with torch and air hammer caps in. These were rusty enough I didnt feel like fighting with them.
TTB going back together.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
You are going to have a real nice little truck by the time you finish this. Now if there was anyway to talk you into putting a different nose on it....
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Bullnose would be cool but the newer "Aero" nose would match wheel arches lol. I'm mainly just poking you because I don't like that front end but obviously not my truck and truthfully I would still drive it if it was. Just with it already blown apart now is the time lol.
Bullnose wheel arches are fairly cheap...If I put a bullnose on it then I have to cut the bed up and weld in the bullnose wheel arches.
Not that I am opposed to that, but I would like to drive it sooner than later. And the dodge is patiently waiting for the cab swap, zf6 and s475 shenanigans.
Provience
Kill!
Dissenting voice, put it back together with what you've got. Faster and easier route to getting use out of itIf I put a bullnose on it then I have to cut the bed up and weld in the bullnose wheel arches.
Not that I am opposed to that, but I would like to drive it sooner than later. And the dodge is patiently waiting for the cab swap, zf6 and s475 shenanigans.
Dislike
Everyone always hating on the 87-91.... they're my favorite, and I own all 3 body styles right now. Not to say I dislike 80-86 and 92-96, but definitely partial to 87-91.
Provience
Kill!
I pretty well can't tell the difference between brick nose and aero noseDislike
Everyone always hating on the 87-91.... they're my favorite, and I own all 3 body styles right now. Not to say I dislike 80-86 and 92-96, but definitely partial to 87-91.
The hood lip roll is a little softer or something
I think arguments could be made for the 87-91 having the best interior. I like the levers for the HVAC controls, and they're above the radio which I like. Also the dash is smaller and they still have a small round steering column. Me being an ogre, first thing I noticed when I got my 92 was I couldn't hold the steering wheel as well with my leg because my knee would hit the big square box on the steering column. Also the floor high beam switch I like, and seems like the 87-91's are the only dashboards that don't crack like the desert.
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
cable controls are nice too
arse_sidewards
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 19, 2020
- Member Number
- 71
- Messages
- 10,751
There's nothing wrong with the 92-96 setup IMO.
You get cable for mix flapper, vacuum for vents and electric (obviously) for the blower. IIRC 96 actually gets you a pull-pull cable setup rather than a pull-push for the mix.
Levigarrett76
Glass Half Empty
Thats like computer controlled carbs to me. 
