1978 F-fun hundred 3/4 tons and 37s

Suggest picking a 'ground' area in the engine bay that you can connect several things to, and more as you expand. A stud on inner fender with a big cable to battery -, as apposed to 10+ wires on the ground terminal of the battery.

Split loom is a good choice so you can troubleshoot and add/remove things in the future.
 
That’s a good point to make and I did just that. This 3/8 stainless bolt is that stud for headlights, horn and fan relay. Still need to sand/strip the metal but not until I seal up the engine
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The stud junctions with heavy frame/block/alternator/battery cables. May add a ground buss bar/junction block on fender but for now it’s pretty clean. Only the #6 main and carb cheater off the battery.
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I have these on the firewall for all the little things inside.
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Everything is getting wrapped and tethered. This is just project chaos.

Fan relay consolidated and moved next to radiator and the horn/headlight crossover. I kinda wanted them in one wrap but that would be extra labor for troubleshooting or removal/service etc.
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If you squint, I reintroduced the mega fuse to the main 12V #2. Only leaves 4” of short hazard that’s in a safe space. The fuse protects the entire 12v system, starter and alternator. 12v system has a 50a circuit breaker. Stator-choke-Hourmeter in protected with 10a inline fuse.

Also ran the heater blower direct to engine ground as well on the cylinder head/firewall strap.

Duraspark module has redundant ground loop. Might get carried away and ground loop the distributor also
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All connectors get dielectric grease and exposed grounds get ox-gard goop - also the 12v lugs on the battery starter etc
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.....I have these on the firewall for all the little things inside.
I'll pretend I didn't see that.
Everything is getting wrapped and tethered. This is just project chaos.
Not a trivial undertaking. But yes that is the right path, like OEM. Have plugs between the harnesses so they can be removed and worked on.
If you squint, I reintroduced the mega fuse to the main 12V #2. Only leaves 4” of short hazard that’s in a safe space. The fuse protects the entire 12v system, starter and alternator. 12v system has a 50a circuit breaker. Stator-choke-Hourmeter in protected with 10a inline fuse.
I dunno about the starter being on a fuse. Long cranking will likely pop a 200-300A, need to carry spare fuses.
Also ran the heater blower direct to engine ground as well on the cylinder head/firewall strap.
This is a good idea as the blower motor uses a lot of current, 30A or so.
Duraspark module has redundant ground loop. Might get carried away and ground loop the distributor also
All connectors get dielectric grease and exposed grounds get ox-gard goop - also the 12v lugs on the battery starter etc
The mag pickup ground is not redundant, it is required for signal integrity. The Dizzy is grounded to the block, but the layers of the guts don't necessarily conduct well to each other. The current in the dizzy to DSII box ground should be zero.
 
I dunno about the starter being on a fuse. Long cranking will likely pop a 200-300A, need to carry spare fuses.
Yeah this was a concern after I cut the wire:idea:
3-pack of 600a on order. OEMs protect the starter with these fuses with denso style starters so hopefully I’ll be ok 🤞once the glove box is empty, reach for the 2,000a screwdriver.

Employing 12a weather pack connectors where I can but not go overboard like I have with rivnuts 🤣

Advanced cam with the crank sprocket. (Correctly this time)

ICL 107.75*
ECL 116.75* (checked same way as intake?) but now it’s late 8*. Was 108.5 when int was 116. Is this normal?

Adding those values is 224.5/2=112.25 LSA correct?

Tried Keith Black method to check timing. Overlap is currently zero now that I’ve max advanced the cam. The intake was previously .024” (probably should’ve been .030”) lower than exhaust at TDC exhaust stroke. This implies there is no advance in the cam and that it is ground straight up.
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Yeah this was a concern after I cut the wire:idea:
3-pack of 600a on order. OEMs protect the starter with these fuses with denso style starters so hopefully I’ll be ok 🤞once the glove box is empty, reach for the 2,000a screwdriver.
600 should be fine.
Fusing can be a delicate balance. Can your battery deliver enough energy long enough to pop a 600A fuse? As it ages, it won't at some point. Or if it is not fully charged. Fusing is simple with a fixed current DC power supply, but batteries have a curve that changes dynamically.
 
Sooo...put heads on and run it? :flipoff2:
Get over here and lend me a hand. We’ll have it buttoned up tonight.

I think I’m comfortable now. Repeat results 3x now. All in the favor of “it’ll wear-in” spec. Ironically there isn’t much info on how to advance a timing chain. I was doing it wrong. Haven’t heard from Crower so I started messing with it again. Shouldn’t have to go this extreme but the results are much clearer now.
 
Get over here and lend me a hand. We’ll have it buttoned up tonight.

I think I’m comfortable now. Repeat results 3x now. All in the favor of “it’ll wear-in” spec. Ironically there isn’t much info on how to advance a timing chain. I was doing it wrong. Haven’t heard from Crower so I started messing with it again. Shouldn’t have to go this extreme but the results are much clearer now.
I go crosseyed trying to read the posts...what marks on the timing chain did you end at?
 
Ummmm sure mathematic stuff.

It shouldn’t be that way but it is.

Old and new timing sets. Same P/N visually the same overlaid with each other. Crank sprocket identical to old mystery no-name with 3 keyways.

Cam card
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My latest and final findings emailed to Crower

ICL 107.75*

IO -7*
IC 29.5*
EO 41.5*
EC -11*

LSA 112.25*

Dur @ .050
Int 202.5*
Ext 210.5*

Lobe lift
Int .277”
Ext .282”

Leaves me no room for adjustment but it’s all in favor of break-in

Engine is set to 15* BTDC. Thrust plate and cam bolt torqued with locktite. Fuel pump installed.

Balancer painted for 15* and 38* per Scotty J
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Install the head tonight so Provience can relax 😎

LFG!!!
 
I’ve turned this engine over and watched the instruments so much that I could do this with my eyes closed. I literally think about this in my sleep from overstimulation working through it and watching videos. My brain needs a reset
 
Hopefully light it off 1-2 weeks from now. Mostly wiring projects holding me back. Coolers need a couple tabs, PS reservoir mount needs to be finished and mount/wire carb cheater. At least I’m not waiting on parts. Just need to do one task a day

As long as it works I don’t care for now. I stood both cams next to each other. Pretty much same same. Sprocket pin in the right spot to the eyeball and verifying the lobes all correspond.

Head wouldn’t play ball with 3/4” impact. Couple of rocker bosses were too tight and the surface they cut to clear the air injection wasn’t relieved enough. Had to customize
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Used the more expensive fuel rig to fix the cheaper fuel rig.
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Oil verified to every rocker. 7 qts in the pan. Internet was right, you can’t put the timing cover back on without lowering the pan 🤢 Hopefully I don’t fight leaks again as a result but there’s no choice.
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This 3 day weekend should yield some good results

Then there’s the damn wiring :flipoff2:
 
Oil verified to every rocker. 7 qts in the pan. Internet was right, you can’t put the timing cover back on without lowering the pan 🤢 Hopefully I don’t fight leaks again as a result but there’s no choice.
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This 3 day weekend should yield some good results

Then there’s the damn wiring :flipoff2:
I tried it without lowering the pan, used a bunch of RTV FIPG. It dripped very slightly.

Went back later and loosened up the pan to run the actual rubber piece and it hasn't dripped since
 
I was cawky and thought I’d push the cover with lip seal down on the radius of the pan and tap it over the alignment dowels with a dead blow. The seal kept squeezing out. Times ticking because I used right stuff. Quickly loosen pan and get it together 🤪 It’s ugly but hopefully it holds.
 
Found the perfect spot to drill/tap 10-24 for distributor ground strap
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Doesn’t photograph as well as it looks. The wiring is all laying into place. All planned out. Just have to work through it.
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DS wide cap looks way better. It is also lower than the Pertronix
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Gently voided the CC warranty and counter bored the back side of the case for these cool rubber washers. Front side is finished off with a faucet washer
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CC has relay triggers built in as one of the expansion features. Going to trigger the fan relay with it. One less wire through the firewall.
 
Curious as to why you added a ground strap to the distributor body?

The body being grounded shouldn't matter with a floating mag pickup that the duraspark uses. The disc the pickup sits on is directly connected to the receiver (DS box) for noise immunity. Lots of high voltage spikes inside the distributor.

If using a petronix or similar type with switch/FET inside the distributor that needs to pull the coil to ground and flow a lot of current, it is important to make that connection low impendence.

Time spent improving electrical system quality and ability to troubleshoot (labels) is worth it
 
Just redundancy. Read a lot on FTE and 460 about ground issues. There’s a ground terminal inside the distributor that is the 3rd wire in the pigtail. I figured why not while the project is in this stage.
 
The mag pickup ground is not redundant, it is required for signal integrity. The Dizzy is grounded to the block, but the layers of the guts don't necessarily conduct well to each other. The current in the dizzy to DSII box ground should be zero.
Curious as to why you added a ground strap to the distributor body?

The body being grounded shouldn't matter with a floating mag pickup that the duraspark uses. The disc the pickup sits on is directly connected to the receiver (DS box) for noise immunity. Lots of high voltage spikes inside the distributor.

If using a petronix or similar type with switch/FET inside the distributor that needs to pull the coil to ground and flow a lot of current, it is important to make that connection low impendence.
I must not understand what you’re saying.
I dunno about the starter being on a fuse
Discarded the idea once more. Late night cam anxiety induced solution to a problem that doesn’t exist. My wiring isn’t aesthetic but it’s never let the smoke loose.

Planning on distributor drive pin upgrade tonight before final installation. Chicom dist is 3/32” equipped. Pertronix was 1/8”. I have both 1/8 and 5/32.

List is getting really short.

Finalize CC and ignition harness tonight


Replace starter cable
PS pump bushings
Radiator
Cooler tabs
Finalize headlamp relay install
Could go on but it’s all little detail stuff, vacuum lines, wiring house keeping, etc

Week from now is possible
 
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You can put a temporary jumper over the fuse for cam break in.

For the distributor, the 'ground' wire to the box is for signal quality. The intent is to minimize noise when sensing the teeth of the rotor. The pickup plate and pickup coil have spikes due to the spark discharges above it. The receiver uses this dedicated 'ground' as a reference, the noise is cancelled/subtracted at the receiver's input.

or at least that is why I think the third wire is there.
 
Ok that makes better sense now. I’ll dump the wire, less work. It’s just a path of continuity between devices not necessarily a path to battery negative.

This is the firing point of the MSD errrr duraspark, right? I should know this but lazy and asking right meow. That’s where I clamped the dist and 15* BTDC. #1 wound up closer to 6 o’clock than 8 so the wires will lay slightly counterclockwise from a nice 9&3 o’clock pattern. 1 tooth throws it off towards 10 o’clock.
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Doesn’t look like much but there’s hours and hours back and forth, planning, running wires, confirming where they lay, taping, looming and fabricating terminals etc.
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4 way firewall connector.
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Fished the terminals through then snapped the body on
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Completed duraspark harness. Began with a painless kit that I tailored to the truck. Worked out in my favor, there’s 2 coil + wires so people can rig up a start bypass and resistor run position. I’m utilizing factory wiring so only one wire needed. The secondary wire works as my carb cheater key 12v 😎 Electric fan temp sensor, engine oil temp and trans temp included in this bundle with a split for carb cheater tach.
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Utilized the throttle bracket boss for choke ground and loom clamp
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Head light relays mounted behind turn signal
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CC has 3 extra wires. 2 of which (orange) are relay triggers and the white is “future expansion”. To save these extra wires, I doubled them back on themselves, taped and wrapped in split loom. They will be secured to firewall with the other harness runs. Also note the new and complete charge/starter cable wrapped in red/black
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O2 sensor is installed with the clamp-on bung for now since I plan to change up the exhaust to 2.5”.

Engine bay wiring nearly finished. Hell of a lot of work. Most of it I’m happy with. Some just looks like ass no matter how hard I try.
 
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