Build New year, new financial mistake, 4800 build.

Put some ospho on the trail rig cage. Going to do the second pass on the cage here in the next few days, had a little surface rust from sitting bare too damn long. I’ll do a scotch brite and wd40 polish before welding.

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Decided to horse around with the pulse on the TIG machine. Damn. It’s like a cheat code. Played with some settings and I have it where I like it. 155 amps, 50% amp drop, 50% on pulse, slowerish pulled freq. ran a few with just the lay wire technique and the pedal mashed. I can really haul ass and it seems to wet in beautifully and not cook the material.

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Right side is current settings. I like it. Cap pass looks the same, little wider bead profile and slightly convex.


Figured I’d try the pulse settings on my arch nemesis. Seemed to help a little. I think it’s going to take some more practice/change in the settings but it does seem to help. Thicker material and I should hopefully be good.

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Also put my Branik shafts together and got the tube seals stuck in the housing. Two things off the board. So that was cool. Need to get new spools, after a little investigating and Branik uses 45° pressure angle on the shafts.
 
Hmm 45* pressure angle seems non- standard.

Might look at Mark williams for spools, I think they had some pressure angle options.

Strange does 45° spools as well. Seems like the major diameter of the 45° shafts is a touch bigger than the 30° shafts, in theory a bit stronger, I also read somewhere less prone to rolling the splines.
 
Had the desire to do something today. Finished the first pass on the cage on the trail rig. Started the second pass. Didn’t get too mad, they are semi acceptable to me, consistency is what I struggle with, that and wanting them all to be absolutely perfect. These will do I guess. Some might be a little cooked but whatever.

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Second pass is probably 50% done, may try and have it done before I leave for KOH, next Sunday. Probably be a decent motivation boost.
 
Had the desire to do something today. Finished the first pass on the cage on the trail rig. Started the second pass. Didn’t get too mad, they are semi acceptable to me, consistency is what I struggle with, that and wanting them all to be absolutely perfect. These will do I guess. Some might be a little cooked but whatever.

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Second pass is probably 50% done, may try and have it done before I leave for KOH, next Sunday. Probably be a decent motivation boost.
That looks really good. Was it done with the pulser on? What amps?
 
Little more welding on the trail rig cage this morning, started dipping tungsten and put down a few I don’t like. Decided to step away from that.

I snagged some 40spl 45° pressure angle Strange Engineering spools from Summit last night when I sent my guy to go pick up some customer parts. Pulled the 3rds out of the axles and started disassembling to swap the spools around.

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And wouldn’t you know it my luck strikes again…

Stubs fit the spools no problem, inners however, do not. Frustrating. I’m not going to even bother calling Branik right now, I’ll wait til I get back from KOH.

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I’d be less surprised if it was a cheap ass made in China Yukon spool. Oh well.

…“hEy ByRoN, hOw CoMe nEiThEr cArS aRe DoNe?”
 
Pointed blue tungsten, 100 amps. It’s brand new sheet. Not sure how much cleaner I can get it. I’ve had less grief with oil impregnated cast than these pieces. I can’t make it make sense.

Since I now have to make another tub I’m going to try a little thicker sheet. Maybe it will take the heat better.
Been watching the tutorial video's here as I've just purchased an AC/DC Tig machine, maybe give you some pointers on your issues...

Pacific Arc Tig Welding Channel
 
Shoulda brought the spool and inner to koh and dropped it at their trailer.
 
I chopped an inch out of the verticals to drop the door bars just a touch. Calling it good. Seats come forward 2-3” and the cowl will come back an inch.

Plan is to do the cab section of the cage then make it a roller and set it on the ground at bump and figure out fuel placement and build the front and rear sections. Going to do them out of 1.75”.
 
10 minutes at the shop and that was all it took to call it a day. This sheet metal work is really becoming a test. Cut and bent the new wheel tub roughs before I left KOH, had every intention to check them/cooler mounts off my whiteboard today. Jumped back into fitting and quickly caught that I somehow was an inch short on the top flat.

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So that’s a half a sheet of 0.080 ally toasted because that means I somehow muffed the other side rough too.

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So that’s enough of a kick in the nuts to zap motivation for a few more weeks.
 
Sacked up and knocked out another 0.630” wheel tub. Made the cooler mounts bolt on like I should have however many wasted hours ago.

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Tub was mint, welds turned out legit.


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Cooler mounts. Done. Two things off my list this week, cage weld out and cooler mounts.


However, there is no 2 steps forward without 1 back. Realized after that the bead rolls in the other tub were done before the fender/side pieces went on. There was no way to get the bead roller in past the fender piece.

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So, surgically chopped out a portion of the fender piece, I’m hoping that I can fairly easily weld the backside up and then blend the front with the DA and some 220 grit. Used the air saw so the kerf is minimal.

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These things really have been a thorn in my side. Comical at this point really. Can’t wait to not have to build a set for the 48 car.
 
Fuel cell mounted. Made a new filler piece as I decided aluminum floor under the cell was redundant and not needed. Looks good with it all stuck together.

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Trans tunnel/firewall/footwells is next on the list. Aluminum/fab work is nearly done and then it’s just some simple plumbing/wiring.
 
One side of the dash probably maybe half way done. I’ve always liked the dimensional sort of dashes, decided to give it a whack. Did some 75° brakes and just kinda set them to make something sort of aim back towards you on the outsides.


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Welded and blended. Minimal warpage. Calling it a win. Now just the other side and the center section.

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So what did you find to make the biggest difference on figuring out your aluminum welding issues? Practice? Patience? Drugs? lol
 
So what did you find to make the biggest difference on figuring out your aluminum welding issues? Practice? Patience? Drugs? lol

Filet, no problem, outside corner, no problem, lap joint can’t do it. Lap joint on this thin stuff will warp like crazy. I haven’t found a way around it, and it almost drove me back to drugs.
 
I like how its curved for style and slightly angled up for better gauge and switch visibility. :smokin:

Regardless of what you think, you do really nice work. :flipoff2:

That was exactly my plan, flat basic ass dashes drive me crazy.

The problem is that working with Maxxis has exposed me to too much military grade fab work. I was never so critical of myself until I could physically put my hands on UFO cars, Campbell cars, Mittag trucks/cars. I guess it pushes me to be more professional, but yeah, I know I’m pretty ****in hard on myself sometimes.
 
That was exactly my plan, flat basic ass dashes drive me crazy.

The problem is that working with Maxxis has exposed me to too much military grade fab work. I was never so critical of myself until I could physically put my hands on UFO cars, Campbell cars, Mittag trucks/cars. I guess it pushes me to be more professional, but yeah, I know I’m pretty ****in hard on myself sometimes.

Sometimes? All the time.

Keep up the awesome work! :smokin:
 
Been busy as heell with other stuff lately and the trail and race car have been collecting dust. Got motivated this weekend and knocked out the trail car footwells/boxes. Turned out pretty sweet I guess.

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Footwells, pretty self explanatory.


Had a eureka moment the other day and decided that I didn’t need the “firewall” even attach to the cowl, figured I’d make some boxes that just wrapped back up to the dash.

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Drivers side yet to whip up and that’s that. Sheet metal work will be 97.69% done maybe.
 
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