Build Boomtacoma's Rear Steer Buggy Build - Wende XL Chassis

Tydes said:
I would just run poly brake lines, stainless lines are not forgiving if they get kinked. It’s easy to carry extra poly line and cut to fit if you have an issue. Stainless your stuck with trying to find another or buying spares. I know they’re not for everyone but most people I wheel with run them. Don’t buy the kits from summit just get Parker hose and fittings as they are much better quality. Super compact and you can route them very easy.
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Link?

I've never heard of a field service poly brake line. Tried Google, but just keep getting air line stuff.

Vaguely remember something about plastic brake lines.

Is it something that's like buggy only? Or you like it for everything?
 
  1. Fabricate aluminum oil pan In progress Thanks SMKYTXN
  2. Buy Battery and mount Battery box - Done
  3. Layout fuel system components and plumb system- Done
  4. mount storage rack to lower support bar
  5. Measure and order Radiator hoses - Done, need to finish Driver side under throttle body.
  6. Drink beer in shop - Always!
  7. Weld out and mount Brake pedal
  8. Mount Accelerator Pedal
  9. Swap orbital mount, mount orbital, steering wheel -Done ish
  10. Lay out the Steering system components will be located under in the engine bay -in progress
  11. Plumb steering , rear steer, cooler, filter, resi, pump, steering cylinder hoses
  12. Work on front driveshaft midship mount- in progress
  13. Build front driveshaft - In progress
  14. Order parts for Rear Driveshaft
  15. Fab front bump bar- Done!
  16. Mock up Headlights
  17. Mock up Rock light locations
  18. Drink beer in shop - ONGOING
  19. tack in harness belt mounts- rears are in need to tack in the lap belt mounts
  20. Design Dog house - in progress Lay out components
  21. Layout IC7 display, Master power disconnect, shifter, usb charger on front panel.
  22. Weld out Doghouse
  23. Plumb Turbo to Throttle body - should be pretty sweet in Carbon fiber - Thanks SMKYTXN
  24. Drink beer in shop -Check!
  25. Floor pans/firewall/ expanded metal for diver and passenger side - in progress
  26. Figure out skid plate mounting for Transmission and engine
  27. Spend a lot more $$$ on parts -in progress
  28. Layout SwitchPros RCR12
  29. Layout power supply wiring from battery
  30. Finish brake rotor and caliper installation -Done
  31. Plumb brake system and brake light switch -In progress
  32. Need to swap the front 3rd to the rear and install the new 3rd in the front
  33. install TG axle seals (4) in both housings
  34. 05 up Direct Drive total spline 1550 outers from Branik, inner 40 spline shafts from ECGS/Branik--EEEKK $$!
 
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Boomtacoma01 said:
Fabricate aluminum oil pan In progress Thanks @SMKYTXN
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Maybe we should let the peanut gallery chime in on the pan design. Currently the pan is 4.5" at it's deepest and has a 1 degree slope up to the front. I have two aluminum piano hinges in the baffle to keep the pickup covered on down hill runs.

Anyone think this thing won't work?

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I think it will work as long as the dimes are stacked nicely..:grinpimp:

My main concern was overall oil capacity from the stock pan to this one. May not be an issue though..
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Link?

I've never heard of a field service poly brake line. Tried Google, but just keep getting air line stuff.

Vaguely remember something about plastic brake lines.

Is it something that's like buggy only? Or you like it for everything?
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I just have them on my buggies/trailered rigs but have had good luck with them. The kit from summit below has push lock style but the fittings are cheap, and the speedway uses ferrule so you need to bring spares along with line to make a repair.


www.speedwaymotors.com

Speedway Lightweight Nylon Racing Brake Line Kit

www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
 
I have braided stainless field serviceable lines on my buggy. They are just a stainless sleeve over the plastic (or rubber? It’s been a while) inner liner and the fittings are just like the field serviceable hydraulic stuff which I also use. AN3 and all the parts came from Summit. No problems or complaints from me…
 
SMKYTXN said:
Maybe we should let the peanut gallery chime in on the pan design. Currently the pan is 4.5" at it's deepest and has a 1 degree slope up to the front. I have two aluminum piano hinges in the baffle to keep the pickup covered on down hill runs.

Anyone think this thing won't work?

Screenshot-2026-04-02-192009.png


Screenshot-2026-04-02-192048.png


Screenshot-2026-04-02-192125.png


Screenshot-2026-04-02-192226.png
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Where are you going to return the turbo oil?
 
DesertCJ said:
I have braided stainless field serviceable lines on my buggy. They are just a stainless sleeve over the plastic (or rubber? It’s been a while) inner liner and the fittings are just like the field serviceable hydraulic stuff which I also use. AN3 and all the parts came from Summit. No problems or complaints from me…
Click to expand...

Are they possible to do on the trail? The field serviceable - 6 lines I've done were such a pain to do, I never felt it was realistic to do on the trail and have never seen anyone do it.

Wonder if we need a new thread to stop derailing this one?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Are they possible to do on the trail? The field serviceable - 6 lines I've done were such a pain to do, I never felt it was realistic to do on the trail and have never seen anyone do it.

Wonder if we need a new thread to stop derailing this one?
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They could be done on the trail. I’ve also done the -6 hydro line/fittings at camp….same as on the trail. Only special tool needed is an abrasive cut-off wheel on a grinder but those are common now.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Link?

I've never heard of a field service poly brake line. Tried Google, but just keep getting air line stuff.

Vaguely remember something about plastic brake lines.

Is it something that's like buggy only? Or you like it for everything?
Click to expand...

I have been running poly brake lines on my short course car for the last 2 years without any issues.
 
SMKYTXN said:
The turbo oil return will feed into the side of the pan with an AN fitting. If spacing works out the return will go into the side of the baffled pickup area.
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Maybe see if you can bring that baffle forward a little more so it can do that. should be able to pull a measurement off the pan I gave you. It should be possible though..
 
Couple of update pics....

Probably going to be the nicest part of the whole buggy.. Carbon Fiber intake to the throttle body with the Turbosmart Vee Port Pro BOV. My buddy SMKYTXN volunteered his time and a lot of effort/research to get this knocked out. I think it turned out RAD!!

full intake tube.jpg


intake 1.jpg


intake 2.jpg


intake 3.jpg


intake 4.jpg


I'm going to add a rubber pad to the protect the carbon fiber on this chassis mount. Pass side Radiator hose is in. Driver side will need some work to the bottom side of the throttle body for the lower hose to clear.
intake 5.jpg


Brake lines 3AN All 4 corners are done. Rear will have a pressure switch in line for the rear brake light.

brake line 1.jpg


Tried to F up this caliper in the process when the 3AN fitting twisted off. Thank God I got that pulled out and chased the threads with a 1/8npt tap. Hopefully it hold with the extra Teflon I put on the new fitting.

Chassis Tag from Adam. I added some heat and formed it on some 1.75 DOM. Still unsure where it will live on the chassis. Probably where it is right now. lol

chassis tag.jpg


Added a bump bar to the front. I tried to keep the tubes tied into the nodes as best as I could. The welds aren't as nice as Adam's but they should work. the bump bar is about 2/3 welded in currently. The winch can still be dropped in through the top. Not the best notches, but not to bad for my first try and I didn't have to start over. The Pipemaster helped out a ton!! Should help protect the winch and front lights when I get them tucked in there. I got the idea from the Wende Chassis owners page on FB. Suck down winch point also welded in place. Pretty nifty mount from Hulse Engineering and quick release pin from McMaster Carr. Keeping everything wiped down with the Fluid film has kept the rust at bay on the chassis.

push bar 1.jpg


push bar 2.jpg
 
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SMKYTXN stepped up his game in the tooling department with a laser scanner.. He is building 2 pans, 1 for me and 1 for the_white_shadow, so he is trying to get a design figured out that will work for both of us consolidating the order to Send Cut Send. performed a laser and IR scan on the bottom end.

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Cleaned up Laser scan
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IR scan
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Added some structure to the engine bay

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Mock up for the accelerator. Having to rework my Master cylinder mount a little.

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3D printed mount for the RCR 12


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i freaking just screen shot your mount for switch mount on roll bar. love this idea. i wont use this one because i dont have that switch but i need to save the idea. thanks for sharing
 
I also love the roll bar 3d printed switch mount. I do have a general question though. How are 3d printed parts holding up over time? Buggies are out in some harsh conditions......Do these 3d printed parts last?
 
i have a cup holder print in my landcruiser that was done in abs over 3 years ago. this thing is showing no wear at all. or warpage. its not in the elements but window are up and sun still bakes the inside and same goes for winter. out side all day every day.
 
Mine will live in the garage, out of the elements. It will be mounted out of harms way to avert any potential impacts (hopefully). I think sporadic inclement weather wont affect it much. It will mainly be exposed to heat.. It has a lifetime warranty though lol..
 
that mount right there has so many different way it could be modded its not funny . like the clamp could be set at a angle to match the window bars or what ever its cool idea for sure
 
The first prototype of the pan wasn't the best due to the flat (front to back) design and the angle (side to side) of the bottom not matching the tilt of the motor. We 3D scanned the bottom of the block to lock in the bolt pattern, that was a learning experience. The angle of the motor was also incorporated into the bottom plate to make it a flat bottom. The additional depth also increased the oil capacity of the pan.

Two degree front to back slope
12 degree bottom plate
Trap door baffle

The pickup tube needed addressing as well. Cutting up a rear sump tube wasn't the answer, but I had the scan so I was able to accurately model the tube and build a jig for it.

Overall pan

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Front view showing the flat bottom and the angle front to back.

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Side view showing the angle to keep the oil towards the back of the pan.

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Transparent side view.

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3D printed pan for final verification.

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Here's the pickup tube model. I have this printed out as well so we can bolt it to the block and confirm clearance.

Pickup-Tube.png


Getting all of the pickup tube components together intelligently was a head scratcher, so I decided to make a jig to lay out all of the pieces.

Pickup-Tube-Jig.png


Here's the jig printed out and ready to start building tubes.

3D-Printed-Jig.jpg


Time for final testing, then I'll send all the files over to SCS and start gluing them together.
 
Blase said:
That's some fancy tech being used the right way!!
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Agreed! It's fun to apply new skills and tools (toys) to personal projects.

The pan is about 90% there after testing the other evening. The flange and bolt holes are perfect as well as the pickup tube. We did have a small interference with the baffle and the pickup tube, so the height of the baffle will be reduced slightly. It's almost time to order the pieces parts for the pans.

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It looks like those new Einstar units do actually do a better job at capturing holes/edges. I've been using the original Einstar for a while, and that's really my only complaint other than processing time for the scans. Can't beat these scanners for the buck, but I haven't been motivated enough to spend more of these bucks to upgrade.
 
Redid the MC mount, didn't like the first version..

MC Mount revised side.jpg


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MC mount top.jpg




Finally got the DS pressed together and phased correctly. It was slightly out of phase so I had to address that. Setting it up at full bump, I still have 4" of slip left on the splined section. I think that will be enough.. It's a 1350 DIY 2.5 DOM .25wt kit from Oliver's Driveshaft, some other random Spicer parts and a Carrier Bearing that SMKYTXN designed with dual internal bearings. The CB base will be beefed up some more after mockup. I'll be using the same Oliver's DIY kit for the rear drive shaft. I still need to pull a measurement for the tube portion for the combination 1410/1350 shaft so I can get that on order.

I may weld the front up myself if I can get a jig set up to test the runout effectively. If not I'll farm it out..

CB mount front joint.jpg


CB mount.jpg


driveshaft front full bump.jpg


Started working on the floor pan structure after that was mocked up. I'm using 1" pipe for cost because it was cheap and just holding the pans and pedal. Both driver and pass floor pans will be pretty similar dimensionally. No pic of the Pass side right now. Floor pans may be a combination of aluminum, expanded metal and 10 ga. plate, not completely decided on that yet..

DS floor bracing.jpg


Ordered all my HP steering hose and fittings from Hydraulics direct and the LP hose and fittings from Summit yesterday so I can get hose installed.

Gas pedal will need to move over towards the engine a bit more. It wont be comfortable in its current position. The mount for it will come off of the front of the floor pan structure.

Trying to chip away at things a little at a time, which I haven't had a lot of lately.
 
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