Build No Name Towrig picture thread

Total tally. 4 gears and 2 syncros

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when cleaning the nv5600, it’s critical to get the counter shaft absolutely clean. There was rtv inside the holes and almost messed up the shaft. I’ve polished it up more since the pics.

There is a small bushing in the end of it that is supposed to be the oil fill line. I messed this one up on disassembly, but flipped it around.

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To upgrade the oil flow to the counter shaft, take a die grinder and open up the port on the bell housing (between the shafts). This port feeds the inlet of the countershaft through a cone washer. I probably opened this up a good 3/8” and make the catch area twice in size.

Before

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After.

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Also. You can take the counter shaft bearing and both splines gears (5/6) off at the same time, but it will take 40t of pressure, the press will jump off the ground about an inch, and you might crap your pants all at the same time…
 
arse_sidewards said:
I have a Clark 280VO (set up for a Chevy application) I'm most of the way through hanging a trans off the back of. How bad do you need a synchro'd first?
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this

there's a ton of single countershaft spicers, clarks and fullers out there
availability goes through the roof if you're fine with no overdrive
 
[486] said:
this
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Meh.

Already hit the sunk cost fallacy, and with future fuel prices, overdrive is a must. Also I have a Clark trans in a 12 valve f series and don’t like the splits without a 2 speed rear. I’m not putting a 2 speed in this truck either….

Last of the tooling and main bearings came in on Wednesday. Hopefully I’ll have this thing together on Sunday. Might have 2 more of these to rebuild afterwards. Word spread pretty quickly that I didn’t think these were that bad.
 
and "normal factory LD truck parts" has a charm to it rather than all the cobbled together bull**** that I saddle myself with
 
You'd like the splits better in a truck that weight 4000lb less. :laughing:

Light duty **** loves OD because it lets them game the ******ed EPA drive cycle ****. You don't have to go up much in tire size for OD to become pretty worthless.

There's a reason that OD 5spds never caught on in MDTs except super lightweight stuff that did a lot of empty miles. For a given amount of power at the wheels you'll make the same or better fuel economy in direct. Kinda wish my Clark wasn't OD. Probably would've finished it up and put it in something by now if that was the case but as it stands I really don't have any use for it. It'll pair well with that V6, but I think stuffing a complete grain truck combo into a car would be ******ed and a car is what I wanted to put that engine in.

Cobbled **** isn't that bad if you tastefully choose your source applications. It's when you get into "this one random piece of **** from 35yr ago that never really sold much is exactly the component that will fit where I need and do what I need" that you get ****ed.
 
I understand why they charge $5000 for one of these…

Main shafts are done, but I need to make a tool to suspend both shafts together in the bellhousing. That’s the best way of reinstalling everything.


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arse_sidewards said:
You'd like the splits better in a truck that weight 4000lb less. :laughing:

Light duty **** loves OD because it lets them game the ******ed EPA drive cycle ****. You don't have to go up much in tire size for OD to become pretty worthless.

There's a reason that OD 5spds never caught on in MDTs except super lightweight stuff that did a lot of empty miles. For a given amount of power at the wheels you'll make the same or better fuel economy in direct. Kinda wish my Clark wasn't OD. Probably would've finished it up and put it in something by now if that was the case but as it stands I really don't have any use for it. It'll pair well with that V6, but I think stuffing a complete grain truck combo into a car would be ******ed and a car is what I wanted to put that engine in.

Cobbled **** isn't that bad if you tastefully choose your source applications. It's when you get into "this one random piece of **** from 35yr ago that never really sold much is exactly the component that will fit where I need and do what I need" that you get ****ed.
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If only there was an easy way to attach a MDT OD trans to a married transfer case. I feel like junkyards were full of these years ago, probably all crushed.
 
Also, the factory adds additional internal synchro rings to help get 1 and 2 spinning. I decided it was probably a good idea to add this to the reverse gear too. These trans always seem hard to get into reverse.
 
I had a 2001 nv5600 truck with a ceramic dual disk, which was one ignorant clutch to drive normal.

To get it in reverse, you had to load up the drive train in 5th, and then push clutch in and throw it in reverse as the drive train unloaded.

Then when you started to back up, it would just start bouncing the truck if you tried to slip the clutch. So I usually just dropped the clutch and barked the tires in reverse, smoother than trying to slip the clutch. :lmao:
 
I’m really happy this thing came with a really good dual disc organic clutch. I’ll say that you need to buy the nicest Val air clutch/master/slave you can afford for these engines. It makes the world of difference in the fleet trucks we ran.

Made a shaft/counter shaft holder out of some scrap 1”x4” balonium. Thx big gay Dan. Just have to get an I bolt and make the long bolt that holds the countershaft.

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Important thing to remember is the oil retaining rings in this trans, this one goes on the front of the input gear to lubricate the input/output gear. And I almost forgot it.

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Still working through the shims to get it right. This thing is heavy…

Messed up the first input shaft seal Friday at 7, called and found one an hour away and drove the tiny Toyota to get it, and in my frustration, messed that one up as soon as I got back. So today I called in a flavor and had one delivered from a private stash.

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bad zuki said:
Also, the factory adds additional internal synchro rings to help get 1 and 2 spinning. I decided it was probably a good idea to add this to the reverse gear too. These trans always seem hard to get into reverse.
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This ended up not working. The gear is shaped differently.

After 3 dry fits, I got it shimmed to 0.002. Book spec is 0.005-8 but after talking to a few people, these things will break in ~0.004. You will more than likely have to sand down the shim set they sell… they are all punched shims and have bad edges.

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After that, the case comes back off, and the little tool I made worked perfectly. Didn’t get a picture of it in action though. You have to suspend all 3 shafts at once, while you install all of the selectors, and lower everything into the bellhousing at one time. It took 2 sets of hands to get it done.

Picture of everything assemble because nobody has any pictures on the internet,

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Case back on for the final time. At the end of this, you’ll be using the chainfall to set the output housing on. It’s 60ish lbs by itself.

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And installed with some fancy Chinesium coolers.

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Forgot the ATF for the transfer case, so no drive time tonight. These things are quirky as hell, but enough patience and anyone can rebuild them.
 
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Same strategy I did on the nv4500 rebuild, shimmed main and countershaft tighter than spec in hopes that it will handle more abuse.

Now I have a weird aluminum german 6 speed out of a ford to put in the shipping crate. I hope I dont have to learn to rebuild it, probably a pain in the ass.
 
bad zuki said:
And installed with some fancy Chinesium coolers.

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Got the info on those coolers? Do they add capacity and have fins or just made to draw heat away?

I'll just edit here instead of bumping thread. I was tired and didn't word that very well. I meant do they have fins inside? lol Like to give more surface area. I saw one guy had one tapped to add a dipstick and that is a sweet idea. I have a PTO on one side so I could only add 1 but that might be a good addition to get that extra fluid capacity and lower temps.
 
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350TacoZilla said:
Got the info on those coolers? Do they add capacity and have fins or just made to draw heat away?
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I’ll link them and the guys I got the parts from after I get back from my trip.

Both, they have a sight glass and hold an extra quart each. Running easy break in miles, I don’t think it got over 100* when I pulled off the interstate to check it.

Alexis700 said:
Now I have a weird aluminum german 6 speed out of a ford to put in the shipping crate. I hope I dont have to learn to rebuild it, probably a pain in the ass.
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It’s built around the center cartridge, kinda like a turbo. This free standing case is far stupider. I still say to take the ends off and do an inspection. Bearing kits and fresh syncros are cheap compared to gears.

The most frustrating part of this was the first install and not having 3 and 5 as synchronous gears….
 
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You dont need a stinkin noisy diesel to tow that trailer, you are damaging surrounding peoples hearing and destroying the environment driving that antiquated smokey tractor engine. :flipoff2:

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Hope the 6 speed behaves and you dont have any dodge problems on the trip.
 
Alexis700 said:
You dont need a stinkin noisy diesel to tow that trailer,
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APPARENTLY, The dodge was too much for that trailer, thing started falling apart on the way home. Probably from the vibrations. :lmao:

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Alexis700 said:
you are damaging surrounding peoples hearing and destroying the environment driving that antiquated smokey tractor engine.

:flipoff2:
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How it feels to burn liberals ears out. :flipoff2:

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Trip pics. Friends got another mastiff puppy named Clyde. 20% skin, 30% paws, 30% skeleton, 20% dumb, 0% brain.

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Took stuff to Grendel, Arse, POSferd's on Friday/Saturday. Then went down and got beach pizza and played at the coin arcade.

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Didn't end up getting too much at the swap meet Sunday, so we left early and went to pick up my buddies monster truck. Hopefully they get that going soon.

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All loaded up and headed back south.

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Oh, and the most adorable lathe I've ever seen. It took up half the tailgate. :lmao:

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Added another sign to my collection too.

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Last trip for a while.

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Had to make a few stops that were out of the way. One was an old bridge that I wanted check out last time I was down here,

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Gonna put this here, but I have a game called Chinese roulette. It started when I was a route driver and one the managers made us go to this restaurant Everytime they came along. 50% of the time it was the best Chinese you could find , but the other 50% you are stopping down the road. It has a few simple rules.
1. strip mall locations only.
2. 3-4 stars if found on a map, or must have a generic name.
3. Bonus points for the old menus with plastic number prices, old paintings on walls, etc.

This one was “knock it out of the park” good.

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Then dinner with the crew.
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Bad ass scooter riders. They were absolutely getting down on 50ccs. I’m probably gonna bring one down next year.

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Spring is in the air, again……..

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I went for mpg on the way down, the dodge averaged 19.02 going through the rolling hills and if I hadn’t ran another 100 miles, I would have made it home on one tank. I also found a fuel leak on injector #3 return. Next is the pump timing and 215 nozzles to see if we can break 20. Until next time :grinpimp:
 
Drove up to the big ****ty to get my cousins beater car. Well I thought the shifter was coming loose so I screwed it on tight and stripped the threads. I tried to retap the hole, but I didn’t have a way to cut off the bad part of the shifter.

Jack handle shifter FTW. Thank goodness this is a short throw shifter, or I would have had to put it through the dash to get to 1-3-5. Something, something, chrome don’t get you home. :grinpimp:

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Got a bunch of old wrench's laying around? Find the largest outside dimension nut you can that has the right thread pattern and put it on with a smaller jam nut above it, then position the wrench with the open end down on the lower nut and weld it. Looks slick and the jam nut is kinda hidden while still being removable. I did it to a NV1500 S10 (I think that's what the trans was...... been too long. 2.2 4cyl 5spd 96 S10.)
 
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