Inverters to run a motorhome

wrath

Red Skull
Joined
Jun 16, 2020
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2033
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124
Loc
Murder Mitten but not Detroit
It seems that inverter technology has come long enough for me to bother trying to run the rooftop AC off inverter for extended periods when glamping. Basically where we camp you need AC until a few hours after sunset to dry out the air until the temperature outside gets low enough to sleep.

Has anyone spent time to figure out what isn't junk out there but not so overbuilt it costs a lot for fulltime use?

I would like to be able to run the whole motorhome off inverter without thinking about it like when the generator is running. I think a 3000-3500w inverter is enough. I am space constrained on the inverter and need a remote on/off switch and a hardwire option. I already have added an ATS on the generator side of the existing automatic transfer switch.

My rooftop AC takes about 1346w continuous running with the interior fan on high. I have a MicroAir Easy Start on it and a normal 1700w inverter generator will run it no problem. I might get a newer soff starter (the Breeze with the bluetooth on it). I have been swapping it from vehicle to vehicle for the last 8 years. haha.
www.microair.net

EasyStart Breeze RV AC Soft Starter for RV Air Conditioners

EasyStart Breeze technology reduces RV AC startup current by up to 75%, enabling RV owners to run their AC using a portable generator.
www.microair.net


As my two group 27 lead acid batteries under the entry steps that are nearing the end of their lives it's time for them to go. I have a third one under the motorhome inside the frame rail that I use for starting the generator and I'm thinking I'm going to switch it to another pair of group 27 and the four of them in parallel will start the motorhome or the generator.

I'm looking to switch to about 500ah of lifepo4 battery to the motorhome via 4 of these:

The last bit I need is an inverter. 3000-3500w, remote display, remote switch, hardwire capable, quiet, and small.

This one will fit and meets the requirements but I have no idea who actually makes it:

3500 W – LANDERPOW

landerpow.com landerpow.com
 
General consensus has been less than awesome.
Usually not enough battery bank available.
Hopefully you can find something that works...
 
3500 sounds small, but if your A/C is pulling half that, then rock on, should be about right sized.

Batteries are the hardest part, but if the budget is cool for it, used electric vehicle batteries are the best bang for the buck. 100% new stuff remains high for storage.

As for brand, I'd use the HQST/Renogy stuff. Yeah it's cheap Chinese, but it isn't cheapest Chinese and seems to not be unbearable for the price.

If money is no object, the most domestic you can get with the most domestic support would be ideal
 
So when I used to do this years ago on my bumper pull the problem was having enough battery and ****ty inverters that mostly made heat. It looks like they have come a long ways. I also used to have to carry 6x group 31 batteries to do it. I think I can do it with 4x group 27 lithium batteries. 500ah at 12v is about a night's worth of heavy AC usage (compressor runs about 50% of the time). In reality, I usually only need it for about 3 hours. My existing 3 lead acid group 27 deep cycle batteries are about 70lbs each. The new group 27s I have are less than 25lbs. I can easily fit 4x group 27 batteries. I could do more, but then I'd have to get creative with custom battery trays.
 
bluemarine.com

Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2 x 120V (120/240 Split Phase)

The MultiPlus-II 2 x 120V is the ideal single-box mobile solution for North American 120/240V split-phase applications. With the capacity to accept and pass through both lines of 120/240VAC, it can provide up to 50a for DC charging.
bluemarine.com bluemarine.com

I have similar requirements to you OP, and have used this inverter for the past few years. It works ****in awesome, 11/10, would buy again. Runs my AC off battery, or battery+solar, or solar+generator, or whatever, and works killer.
 
The problem with my motorhome is there is like no space. It's a Coachmen Leprechaun 260DS. There is very little wasted space, except under the oven. Which I already claimed that space for other **** (small UPS, a power converter, **** for my camera system, etc). However, I do have some room near where the factory WFCO power converter/water heater/furnace is where I could re-engineer some of it to fit a box about 20" long 12" wide and 4" tall. The space is bigger than that, but I need room for wires and airflow at the front and back as well as my fat ass be able to work through the water heater service opening.

I did buy a WFCO WF-T30 (120vac 30a automatic transfer switch) so then it would allow me to run a cheaper/smaller form factor inverter. I have a spot off to the side it would be convenient to mount next to the water heater.

So this is what I used to have in my old bumper pull glamper but it's ****ing huge which I agree GLTHFJ60 it is awesome:

This is what I was going to originally buy, but it's kind of tight to fit it where I'd need it to go:

This is just as big, but no switch:

So that's why I'm looking at something like this because it is fairly small:
 
The way I look at it, the inverter is the heart of your 120v/shore power system, and controls how your 12v is charged most of the time. It's worth spending money on a good one.

Mine survived a battery fire for ****s sake, lol. I'd spend the money on a good inverter first, make it fit, then spend money on the rest when you can.

Ymmv, but that's what's worked for me.
 
quick math:
500ah about 6400w /1346 = 4.75 hours.
Now adding up all the power loses and the fact that is not a real world number, I would say 500ah would give you about 3.5 hours of run time.
You need a pretty big solar array to keep up.
 
A very large solar setup. I've got 1650w currently. It is technically above the 100A max for my controller but so far it's worked. This won't keep ahead of the AC let alone recharge the batteries. Got room for 2 more panels on the roof, but that will require a second charge controller and splitting the panels up between them. That will get 2200W theoretically. Still not great. The awnings over the bedroom windows are roached. Going to replace them with a couple flip up 460w bi-facial panels. Now that should run the AC and charge the battery even without full sun. Will require yet another charge controller.......

It has 2X610AH batteries, may upgrade too 4.
 
I live in the murder mitten. It's like living in Seattle as far as cloudiness goes and the Ozarks as far as the humidity goes. Compressor runs about 50% of the time when the AC is on. If you try to force it to run more the evaporator coil freezes. Usually in Michigan the overnight temperatures are below 72-74, but the dew point is about 196. So really you just need to run the AC at night enough to push down the temperature enough to drive down the humidity inside and get rid of the heat soak in the walls and roof. Daytime I'll just run the generator to charge the batteries.

Very rarely do we camp anywhere to put a solar panel, unless we wanted to put it in the road. It's a PITA just trying to get usable Starlink sometimes.

We've gotten away with running the generator to run the AC until 9pm and just enduring it but last summer a few times we camped (it's often daylight until well after 10 in Michigan) the heat and humidity made it difficult to sleep until around 1am. So I'm thinking if I had about 3 hours of AC clock time (probably use about 3 batteries worth of charge/375ah) that would leave me enough to run the microwave in the morning on the remaining battery.

I can put more batteries inside the frame rail on the driver's side, but I really only need a day's worth.
 
One issue with running large loads on inverters is the high current that only 12V incurs. Suggest 24V or 48V inverters. Half to a quarter of the DC current, wire size, heat loss due to high currents. Obviously would need multiple lead acid in series to get those voltages, or some type of Lith battery and it's controller.

Starting an A/C is an issue with a smaller generator or inverter. You start at locked rotor current, and no ez-start cap is going to change that or help. Also, single phase AC motors are not good at startup under load. And a compressor system makes that worse, hence the delay to allow refer pressure to drop before next restart. Primary design goal of rooftop RV A/C is cheap.

Conclusion? 12V sucks. Single phase AC motors suck. Yes with enough money you can make it work.

I'd look into a 48 VDC A/C unit and skip the inverter. No need to convert to AC . 48V brushless DC (3-phase) compressor motor is superior. Full torque @ zero RPM is great for starting a compressor or fan.

Typical mini-split home A/C uses all DC motors. Ironically, they are called 'inverters'.
 
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rattle_snake said:
One issue with running large loads on inverters is the high current that only 12V incurs. Suggest 24V or 48V inverters. Half to a quarter of the DC current, wire size, heat loss due to high currents. Obviously would need multiple lead acid in series to get those voltages, or some type of Lith battery and it's controller.

Starting an A/C is an issue with a smaller generator or inverter. You start at locked rotor current, and no ez-start cap is going to change that or help. Also, single phase AC motors are not good at startup under load. And a compressor system makes that worse, hence the delay to allow refer pressure to drop before next restart. Primary design goal of rooftop RV A/C is cheap.

Conclusion? 12V sucks. Single phase AC motors suck. Yes with enough money you can make it work.

I'd look into a 48 VDC A/C unit and skip the inverter. No need to convert to AC . 48V brushless DC (3-phase) compressor motor is superior. Full torque @ zero RPM is great for starting a compressor or fan.

Typical mini-split home A/C uses all DC motors. Ironically, they are called 'inverters'.
Click to expand...

I don't disagree that 12vdc sucks, but why would anyone switch to 24v or 48v on a system that operates at 12vdc or 120vac? If you're going through that misery do no pass go and shoot for the moon to collect your $200. Remember that electricity doesn't jump gaps until about 300v.

So let's say I run 1/0 between the batteries and 2/0 to the inverter. It's all within 10' of each other. Minimal voltage losses as it's a couple ohms. Peak load on the inverter would probably be the AC unit at ~1400w and maybe another 120w to the ammonia refrigerator. So let's say 130 amps or so. Not going to lose much in 2/0 wire. It's only for temporary use, and I could even run the rooftop AC off the alternator on the chassis.

The Micro-air easystart is not a capacitor. It is solid state and works by spreading the switching over time. So instead of seeing around the 66 locked rotor amps most AC units have it's more like 20-22amps. The worst I've seen is 25 amps and the best I've seen is 13 amps on a tiny AC unit. It's harder on the motor but not much.
 
wrath said:
I don't disagree that 12vdc sucks, but why would anyone switch to 24v or 48v on a system that operates at 12vdc or 120vac? If you're going through that misery do no pass go and shoot for the moon to collect your $200. Remember that electricity doesn't jump gaps until about 300v.

So let's say I run 1/0 between the batteries and 2/0 to the inverter. It's all within 10' of each other. Minimal voltage losses as it's a couple ohms. Peak load on the inverter would probably be the AC unit at ~1400w and maybe another 120w to the ammonia refrigerator. So let's say 130 amps or so. Not going to lose much in 2/0 wire. It's only for temporary use, and I could even run the rooftop AC off the alternator on the chassis.

The Micro-air easystart is not a capacitor. It is solid state and works by spreading the switching over time. So instead of seeing around the 66 locked rotor amps most AC units have it's more like 20-22amps. The worst I've seen is 25 amps and the best I've seen is 13 amps on a tiny AC unit. It's harder on the motor but not much.
Click to expand...
The converter powers the 12v, you are not really changing anything. Keep a small starting battery for the gen and you are fine. I don't see the misery at all. It's easier to work with 24v or 48v. Smaller cables, less heat, safer...

My next setup will be two 3,000w Victron Inverters with 750ah at 48V. I would never build a 12v system.
 
wrath said:
The Micro-air easystart is not a capacitor. It is solid state and works by spreading the switching over time. So instead of seeing around the 66 locked rotor amps most AC units have it's more like 20-22amps. The worst I've seen is 25 amps and the best I've seen is 13 amps on a tiny AC unit. It's harder on the motor but not much.
Click to expand...
Interesting product. It just current limits the motor. Makes it harder to start. Same energy, spread over a longer time period. Stupid for $350. drinking through a straw essentially.

I can see the use case for it with existing equipment, but it's a band-aid solution. Spend the $350 on a bigger inverter, better batteries, better AC.
 
Diablo169 said:
The converter powers the 12v, you are not really changing anything. Keep a small starting battery for the gen and you are fine. I don't see the misery at all. It's easier to work with 24v or 48v. Smaller cables, less heat, safer...

My next setup will be two 3,000w Victron Inverters with 750ah at 48V. I would never build a 12v system.
Click to expand...

A whole RV runs on 12vdc and 120vac. I see no reason to bother with 24vdc or 48vdc. You are converting it to something else all the time. Like what is the benefit of implementing a 48vdc system, run an inverter, then convert it down to 12v to run the 12v system? Or are you saying to use a preposterously expensive DC-to-DC buck converter to get it down to 12v? How are you charging it? Running a 120vac/12vdc generator to either use a boost converter or a 120vac battery charger to drop it down to 50vdc? None of this makes sense just because you're trying to save a hundred bucks on wire. And every time you're converting it you are losing 8-14% to heat.

Or are you saying go through the motorhome and replace every single appliance and light with 48vdc and then buy a separate boost charger to run off the engine alternator?
 
rattle_snake said:
Interesting product. It just current limits the motor. Makes it harder to start. Same energy, spread over a longer time period. Stupid for $350. drinking through a straw essentially.

I can see the use case for it with existing equipment, but it's a band-aid solution. Spend the $350 on a bigger inverter, better batteries, better AC.
Click to expand...
It technically carefully controls the voltage to spread out the start to around 300ms. It's usually a little faster. But yes, it fixes the inrush current and locked rotor amps problem and essentially is a current limiting device. It doesn't work on anything that starts against a load. So expensive compressor systems with an expansion valve and accumulator that holds pressure it doesn't work on. It also doesn't work too well on... water well pumps.

I agree they are overpriced. The last one I bought was under $200. It was worth it to me just to get rid of the duct-rattling bang of the AC unit starting up and since it won't run the compressor right after it turns off (because it is actually waiting for the pressure to equalize) it prevents the evaporator from freezing. Evaporator freezing is a real problem in places when the humidity matches the temperature.
 
wrath said:
A whole RV runs on 12vdc and 120vac. I see no reason to bother with 24vdc or 48vdc. You are converting it to something else all the time. Like what is the benefit of implementing a 48vdc system, run an inverter, then convert it down to 12v to run the 12v system? Or are you saying to use a preposterously expensive DC-to-DC buck converter to get it down to 12v? How are you charging it? Running a 120vac/12vdc generator to either use a boost converter or a 120vac battery charger to drop it down to 50vdc? None of this makes sense just because you're trying to save a hundred bucks on wire. And every time you're converting it you are losing 8-14% to heat.

Or are you saying go through the motorhome and replace every single appliance and light with 48vdc and then buy a separate boost charger to run off the engine alternator?
Click to expand...
I'm with you man. I fretted the decision between a 12v native system and a 24 or 48v system with a separate inverter to give me 12v. 12v native was cheaper for high quality stuff, no extra inverter needed.
 
wrath said:
A whole RV runs on 12vdc and 120vac. I see no reason to bother with 24vdc or 48vdc. You are converting it to something else all the time. Like what is the benefit of implementing a 48vdc system, run an inverter, then convert it down to 12v to run the 12v system? Or are you saying to use a preposterously expensive DC-to-DC buck converter to get it down to 12v? How are you charging it? Running a 120vac/12vdc generator to either use a boost converter or a 120vac battery charger to drop it down to 50vdc? None of this makes sense just because you're trying to save a hundred bucks on wire. And every time you're converting it you are losing 8-14% to heat.

Or are you saying go through the motorhome and replace every single appliance and light with 48vdc and then buy a separate boost charger to run off the engine alternator?
Click to expand...
I'm not being negative at all, but I think you need to do more reading on 24v and 48v systems. You can charge it faster through solar, gen and on shore power. It produces much less heat. Your converter will always power the 12v side when running on the inverter or shore power, so there is literally no change to the 12v side.

My Victron 24v 3,000w Inverter/ charger will charge at 70amp. Unfortunately, I can only pull about 1/3 the watts from my 5,500w Onan, so it takes about 10hrs to fully charge my 1000ah 24v batteries. If I were to use a 48v Victron Inverter that also charges at 70amps I would be able to use more watts out of the Onan, and fully charge the same batteries in 1/2 the time all while producing less heat. Calculate charging time for 2,000ah at 12v with a 50amp Inverter Charger.

The Victron Inverter Charges also have a trickle charge option for a 12v house battery.

The Victron Inverter Chargers are designed for continuous use. With solar you can leave the system on permanently. Add starlink, or if you motorhome is close to wifi, you can constantly monitor your entire system, run security cameras, remote run the generator etc.
 
wrath said:
Or are you saying go through the motorhome and replace every single appliance and light with 48vdc and then buy a separate boost charger to run off the engine alternator?
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You need to see the 12v and 120v being two completely separate systems. How you power the Inverter Charger can vary, and is completely separate. You can shut off the inverter charger and run on a small house 12v battery to power the 12v side, or you can flip off the 12v side and flip on the 120v side and power everything, both 12v and 120v through the Inverter Charger, and the Converter that your RV already has.

The 12v house battery should be separate from the rest of the system.

In my toy hauler I have 4 24v Tesla Batteries at 1,000ah, and I have a 100ah 12v LiTime battery that powers my 12v side when the Inverter Charger is off, and handles starting the generator.
 
The 12vdc and the 120vac systems are entirely separate, but it's real easy to get from 120vac to 12vdc... but WFCO converters take like a 18% efficiency tax.

Probably should just abandon the Victron for charging the batteries off the generator. Just get a real battery charger. When I loaded up my 4000W Onan at 30a with my load bank it gave no ****s.

If you're converting it from anything to anything, how is there less heat with 48vdc versus picking a native voltage source?

The whole RV runs on 12v, except for the AC, coffee maker, and microwave, the water heater if I want to, and the refrigerator if I want to. I usually run the water heater and refrigerator on gas. Sometimes I run the refrigerator on 12v. It's an old style ammonia one so it works well on gas and is fairly efficient since it has electronic ignition.

The AC, coffee maker, and microwave are intermittent use items. No need to run an inverter if you're not using them so just leave it off.

So you're saying I should use 48vdc Victron inverter/charger to run everything and then if I want to run the 12vdc side of the house... convert it to 12vdc? So you want me to convert it twice and lose 25% of my watts to heat?

I'd like to see this math on the heat loss claims around converting repeatedly just to store energy at a voltage that matches nothing.
 
If your starting from scratch, 48v is a no brainer. Retrofitting a 12v coach? There's a lot of ****ery going on.

For off grid house stuff, I'm looking at high voltage stuff. 350ish volt batteries, 48v sucks compared to that.
 
wrath said:
The 12vdc and the 120vac systems are entirely separate, but it's real easy to get from 120vac to 12vdc... but WFCO converters take like a 18% efficiency tax.

Probably should just abandon the Victron for charging the batteries off the generator. Just get a real battery charger. When I loaded up my 4000W Onan at 30a with my load bank it gave no ****s.

If you're converting it from anything to anything, how is there less heat with 48vdc versus picking a native voltage source?

The whole RV runs on 12v, except for the AC, coffee maker, and microwave, the water heater if I want to, and the refrigerator if I want to. I usually run the water heater and refrigerator on gas. Sometimes I run the refrigerator on 12v. It's an old style ammonia one so it works well on gas and is fairly efficient since it has electronic ignition.

The AC, coffee maker, and microwave are intermittent use items. No need to run an inverter if you're not using them so just leave it off.

So you're saying I should use 48vdc Victron inverter/charger to run everything and then if I want to run the 12vdc side of the house... convert it to 12vdc? So you want me to convert it twice and lose 25% of my watts to heat?

I'd like to see this math on the heat loss claims around converting repeatedly just to store energy at a voltage that matches nothing.
Click to expand...

What he's saying is large AH ratings with a 12V system are wasted since you can't recover them as quickly. Hardware wise and AH wise you are the same if you are running 4 12V batteries in parallel vs in series. The difference is that you lose a ton of charging capacity with solar and shore power when you are just 12V and you lose a high continuous capacity with 12V vs the higher voltage.

The difference is a couple of wires so go with the higher voltage. You can run a parallel system on top of a series system with some creativity but it's easier to just run a small battery with a charger since the 12V load in a camper is next to nothing.

As for the parallel systems - you are overthinking it. The 12V in a camper draws next to nothing so running a small 50AH battery to run the factory 12V stuff and have all the AC stuff run off a high voltage bank. Keep that and put in a 4 stage 120V battery charger (don't use the factory converter as most are only single stage).
 
I literally do not care about solar. I live where there are trees and I camp where there are trees. Solar panels are literally just more trash to carry around. Literally no ****s given about solar and certainly not interested in converting power twice just so I can hook up solar panels that I'm never going to use.

So are you guys saying I should run 12v for my lighting and everything else then use an entirely separate 48vdc system just to run the inverter?

We use "a lot" of 12v in the camper. It is constantly powering a bunch of cameras and other electronics.

Inside of all the different batteries are just the same cells hooked up differently. You are usually limited by the BMS on the battery, and let's say you have a battery that has a 100A BMS. How fast do you need to charge it and how many can your shore power support?

Most batteries come with a BMS built in. So you just need to put ~14.6v to them and let 'em go. They take are of the charging and balancing. Most WFCO chargers are 3 stage for lead acid and 2 stage for lithium, but it doesn't matter if your battery has a BMS in it as you should just give the battery what voltage it wants continuously.
 
Yup leave the 12V system as-is.
I'd go 48VDC air conditioner and 48V batts, no inverter. But that doesn't run microwave.
If keeping existing 120VAC air conditioner, then inverter of choice. Not sure the 48V would be much improvement from 12V. 12V is cheapest path for you.

AC->DC and DC->DC conversion is easy and cheap compared to DC->AC. Creating a low THD sine wave from on/off switches takes expensive filter components. In general, the topologies and technologies of inverters have not changed much in the last 10 years. The designs have been cost reduced by raising switching frequencies to reduce the size/cost/waste(leakage) of the magnetics.
 
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wrath said:
I literally do not care about solar. I live where there are trees and I camp where there are trees. Solar panels are literally just more trash to carry around. Literally no ****s given about solar and certainly not interested in converting power twice just so I can hook up solar panels that I'm never going to use.

So are you guys saying I should run 12v for my lighting and everything else then use an entirely separate 48vdc system just to run the inverter?

We use "a lot" of 12v in the camper. It is constantly powering a bunch of cameras and other electronics.

Inside of all the different batteries are just the same cells hooked up differently. You are usually limited by the BMS on the battery, and let's say you have a battery that has a 100A BMS. How fast do you need to charge it and how many can your shore power support?

Most batteries come with a BMS built in. So you just need to put ~14.6v to them and let 'em go. They take are of the charging and balancing. Most WFCO chargers are 3 stage for lead acid and 2 stage for lithium, but it doesn't matter if your battery has a BMS in it as you should just give the battery what voltage it wants continuously.
Click to expand...

I think you need to need to brush up on how to use the word "literally" in a sentence.
 
thread bump?

I am looking at china inverters for my little popup camper.

no AC, only real requirements are a CPAP, phone charging, and maybe an electric kettle for coffee. maybe eventually a Starlink setup.

I am looking at this Renogy, because I think it says it has auto switching if I plug into shore power.

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Inverter-Automatic-Transfer-Bluetooth/dp/B0DL5KRBHL?crid=1M6C7Y7X2BJBP&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Q9icsM39KNqeLWuLL8w6fx-6d7AVB-G-VfB88eec6gMYQ_kRWBy6N3gCmI4jl6DOV6JUIrohdE-i8XlLhMEiN1lxTEW4T57iYODZW3FQioQFfB6mlSFs6Pxc8-e07XuoLrZ3GvTvV_047FHAR662-XyEalJiqV7_s4lbY0VigdYZSPKLeoN6JvCeT1QBp5PwtlI1sza8oOZBTP6wfpieUOpyEKRlbwt-Ftwz8uPlzxE.bIVFo6_2ANjolrYgYNCh5Bv9ZRP41cDf1W8P98nnBJc&dib_tag=se&keywords=Renogy%2BInverter%2BPUH%2C%2B3000W%2BPure%2BSine%2BWave%2BPower%2BInverter%2Bwith%2BUPS%2BTransfer%2BSwitch%2B%26%2BBluetooth%2C%2B12V%2BDC%2Bto%2B120V%2BAC%2BConverter%2Bfor%2BRV%2C%2BTruck%2C%2BHome%2CCamping&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1780345112&sprefix=renogy%2Binverter%2Bpuh%2C%2B3000w%2Bpure%2Bsine%2Bwave%2Bpower%2Binverter%2Bwith%2Bups%2Btransfer%2Bswitch%2B%26%2Bbluetooth%2C%2B12v%2Bdc%2Bto%2B120v%2Bac%2Bconverter%2Bfor%2Brv%2C%2Btruck%2C%2Bhome%2Ccamping%2B%2Caps%2C382&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.5998aa40-ec6f-4947-a68f-cd087fee0848&th=1

I would have to add a separate battery charger to that one. I have an solar panel to add to it as well anyway.

or this other Chinese brand, that I don't think has a reputation? but it is an inverter charger, which I think may be easier. although, one review said that when it was plugged in it didn't provide any 120 to the system until the battery was charged.





any thoughts or recommendations? I am trying to stay under 500 dollars.
 
The cheap Chinese **** all went up in price. That Renogy inverter you linked is the same one I linked. In January it was under $270 with coupon. It's now $460. It's not worth $460. That's getting into next tier quality so I haven't bought anything yet and have just been using the generator.

The kettle takes a ton of power. I bet other than that you could get by on a 1000w inverter.

Starlink is better to run on a DC boost converter. I have a few of these:
 
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