'56 willys truck

I haven't done much of anything on the rig, but I am starting to prep for some changes. AC is on hold, don't really need it in -10-30* temps, plus I'm not working in that **** cold!! So the lower link brackets on the rear axle aren't set up correctly, as-in they're not perfectly in line with the link arms, their angle is off. So I've been wanting to change those for some time and now I came across some 1.25" enduro joints at a good price and bought enough to do the lower front and rear arms. I'm currently using 7/8" heims and they look small & fragile so why not go bigger and fix that issue at the rear. I'm going to use 2" x 1/4" DOM and I think I'm going to buy the Barnes stiffener plates that go insided the DOM to beef them up. I have the joints, jam nuts and tube inserts already and one 4' stick of 2" DOM, so I'm just gonna stay with the 2" DOM. I started to fab one side(long tab) of the mount as I already have two short tabs that were extra sitting in a bucket. As for the front I may 4 link it as I'v always wanted to, but we shall see, but I will redo the front lowers too.
 
I opted for Barnes 20* axle link mounts vs builiding them. I didn't have big enough scrap pieces to make them properly and by the time I bought metal and cut and drilled and welded them together it didn't make sense, so Barnes won. Just waiting for them to show up. I will still need to buy 3- 48" pieces of 2" DOM to build the front and rear arms or I re-do the frame mounts to shorten my current arms and re-use those tubes, but I'm not sure I'll do that. I can save those for spares, but I'll put an eyeball on it to see what I'm up against before a decision is made.
 
I got one link pretty much ready--need to add another coat of paint, but I need to buy more paint. Also I ordered some Johnny Joint grease. One interesting thing is that the Left Hand Johnny Joints aren't as wide as the Right Hand ones. Not sure why, but maybe because I got them from a guy off EBAY. They are from the same manufacturer company, but I found it odd they were different. Probably about a 1/4" of so different.

I did buy the Barnes Stiffener plates that go inside the DOM and the one plate that welds to the outside, so they should be pretty stout. Time will tell.

One thing I figured out is to tack weld the Stiffener Plates while you insert them into the tube, once you get 1/2 way pull them out and then turn it around and insert the other half into the DOM and finish the tack welds, then pull it out and weld it up. It's easier to keep the stiffener plates aligned vs trying to do it with a tri-square by yourself. Then what I did was put the Johnny Joint tube inserts in and aligned the joints and marked the bottom of the tube. I then removed the johnny joint tube inserts and slid the Stiffener Plates into the DOM and aligned a fin with my bottom mark and then marked where each fin was on the end, flipped it and did the same on the other side. Then I took the tube stiffener and used it as a straight edge and marked 4 lines down the tube so that I could drill the holes to plug weld the thing into place. I made the the tube stiffener 5" shorter than the tube, that way it wouldn't interfere with the Johnny Joint tube insert. I had to knock the insert in the last foot, as it did bind up a bit, but that's because I hadn't figured out the above on the first one and used a tri-square to try and align the tube insert plates together. I expect that the other's will go easier with the new system, but it wasn't that hard to pound it in either, but the above will help for sure.

I'll take some pics on the next one for reference.
 
Pic of the insert getting tack welded.
 

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I had to buy a new welder. My Harbor Freight ***anium Welder gave up after 8 years about 4 months ago and the 8 yr old Miller Welder from work just did the same, so I took it into work for them to fix, but I need my own, so I went to EBAY and got a Harbor Freight Vulcan OmniPro 220 delivered to my door in 2 days for $825. So, we shall see how this one holds up. I haven't been back on the links, due to me installing some laminated flooring in one of our bedrooms, but I'm hoping to be done either tonight or tomorrow and then this weekend I can get back on the other rear link.
 
Yea both of those statements are extremely true.

I'm loving the Vulcan OmniPro 220 welder. 2 thumbs up so far. I got the passenger side lower link arm built and painted, but the right-hand Johnny Joint won't thread in all the way, which means I can't install the arm. I need it and the left-hand joint to thread in all the way to get it into the mounts and it won't. I'm not sure why, but it binds up with about 1/2" to go, so I ordered both a right and left hand tap to remedy the problem and to be ready for future issues if they arise. They are to arrive tomorrow. I almost ordered them a month ago and then thought I'd chance it. So again Murphy shows up, but I helped him by trying to chance it!!
 
Rear Passenger lower link installed. Taps showed up and I ran the RH tap in all the way and problem solved. I think the heat from welding muggled up the threads a bit is the only explanation that makes sense. Now the lower fronts are next and I will make a decision about adding another upper link on the driver's side to 4 link the front.
 
I’m not following. It looks like you threaded all the way through that pipe. Why? Where do you even get a tap like that? Is this a joke?
 
No it's not threaded, just twisting it to get it to go through as it hung up a bit by just trying to push it straight in. I am showing how I figured out where to drill the holes for the plug welds. 1st I slip the johnny joints into the tube(tube stiffener is not installed yet), then I put the whole link into the mounts on the truck and mark the bottom on each end of the link. I then remove the whole link and slip the tube stiffener in the tube and mark all 4 wings on the tube, so that I can draw straight lines down the tube to know where to drill the holes for the plug welds that weld the tube to the tube stiffener. Hope that gibberish makes sense.
 
Thanks. It's worked on the 3 I've done and there's no reason for it not to work on the last one. The first stiffener I welded up wasn't equal and it seemed easier than building a jig to weld up the stiffeners to insure them being equal distance between the ribs. Of course if you did build a jig you should be to mark the lines equal-distance around the tube and drill your holes for the plug welds, but again this seemed faster and fool proof.
 
csutton7 said:
Thanks. It's worked on the 3 I've done and there's no reason for it not to work on the last one. The first stiffener I welded up wasn't equal and it seemed easier than building a jig to weld up the stiffeners to insure them being equal distance between the ribs. Of course if you did build a jig you should be to mark the lines equal-distance around the tube and drill your holes for the plug welds, but again this seemed faster and fool proof.
Click to expand...
I used the DOM tube as a jig. Pulled out 12" at a time and weld etc. I only welded the stiffeners in one plane not both inside the tubes. Will see if it holds up.
 
Winchested--Yea I did the same for tack welding and then to weld it I would skip all over by pushing it in and pulling it out of the DOM as needed but I welded all planes. Will be interesting to hear if you have any issues. I hope not, but still good info to have as time goes on. I also bought the tube bolster that welds to the outside and I have it on the bottom. And I have the tube stiffeners positioned so the ribs are at 12, 3. 6 & 9 o'clcock. I'm not sure it matters on their position or not, but it's what I did.

Somehow I shorted myself on the weld washers, so I ordered a pack of 10 coming from Ruff Stuff(although I have no idea when they will arrive as there's no update on shipping), because Barnes was out. Then of course a day later Barnes emails me and says they have them so I ordered a pack of 4(all I need) thinking I might get those sooner, but I have no info on when those will arrive, beacuse there's been no update on shipping either. Usually, I get Barnes stuff in 2-3 days, but we shall see if they show up tomorrow or Saturday, so I can attempt to get this phase done.
 
Since the weld washers are too possibly show up Tuesday now from both Barnes and Ruff Stuff I decided to make my own weld washers out of some 1/4" slugs I had from cutting out something quite awhile ago. This way I could get the last lower built and installed, because it's supposed snow today and you never know how much we will get and I didn't want to be without the Willys just in case. So, yesterday I got everything fabbed up and painted all the parts and this morning at 8am I installed the driver's side lower. So now the new stronger lower links phase is completed. Pics to come later just in case someone wants to see what they look llike.
 
I think that the 12V AC/Heater system shall commence, as the next project. I'm thinking I will install some shutoff valves and a crossover pipe in the heater hoses. That way during the summer I can keep the coolant from circulating into the heater core by opening the crossover valve and shutting off the other 2 valves and then in the winter I can do the opposite. Also, it will allow me to drive the thing while this project is underway. First up is to unbox the stuff and see where I can install the compressor and see how complete the system is.
 
I couldn’t find everything I wanted at Home Depot or Ace, so Amazon prevailed. Then I commenced to heater removal by using some vice grips to clamp the heater hoses to keep them from draining the system when removing the hoses from the heater unit. Then I temporarily tied the heater hoses together. Then heater removal and I began the new heater mock up. I had to screw a piece of metal about 5” x 20” to the bottom of the dash to be able to attach the new heater mount. Then slipped the heater into place to see how things looked & that’s where I stopped.
 

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So cuz I just love buying stuff and then get it and start to assemble the parts and realize I don’t really like the look I then buy some different parts that I believe will look better. Oh yea and almost buying stuff at Home Depot to mish mash parts together and then realizing at checkout that what you have is gonna look like ****. Luckily I walked out buying nothing and decided Amazon was my friend.

Ok I get home and buy some stainless steel valves and barbed fittings & hose clamps to build my crossover redirection heater hose setup to be able to shut down or open up the coolant flow to the heater core in the summer & winter. Parts arrive and I assemble parts and realize the look isn’t what I want. Back to Amazon I go and order a bunch of Evil Energy AN fittings and shutoff valves. They arrive and I like the easy this looks. So for the last couple of evenings I’ve been figuring out how to route the hoses and stuff have room to install the A/C lines. Anyway I get the bulkheads figured out and installed and install the redirection manifold so I can test it before I run hoses to the heater core. ONE EVIL ENERGY VALVE LEAKED!!! AAAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHH.

Back to Amazon to buy some ¾” mip to AN FITTINGS so I will now remove the Evil Energy valves and put in the stainless steel valves and retest and hopefully that works so that I can finish the heater hoses and start on the A/C system.
 

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Manifold valve swap done and tested and I had one leak on one fitting and tightened it and all is good, but I'll keep an eye on it. I've got the 5/8" hose hanging at the heater core and the 3/4" line I need to run from bulkhead to heater core, figure out how to make some mounts to hold the manifold and the heater hose plumbing will be done. I still need to figure out how to connect the heater defroster hoses, but I have some 2" PVC pipe, 90's and a couple 2" to 1 1/2" reducers to play with. Then to the A/C side of things to figure out. Where to put the compressor? Do I mount the condenser to the radiator in the bed or in the bed or up front? If I mount it at the radiator then I don't have to worry about the fan I think. I'll need to look at the wiring. Hose routing will be fun no matter where things get mounted. Do I need to protect the compressor if I mount it in the bed or in front of the motor or do I mount it under the passenger seat? Probably will need some protection, as I'm not sure how water resistant the thing is and if I mount it under the seat how noisy is the thing? I'm pretty sure I'll have to be modifying the hoses too. Whole lot of fun!
 
Interesting thing that I didn't see until yesterday. I went back and looked at the EBAY info about the kit and on one of the pages, that I do not recall seeing, stated to use the A/C you need to put a shut-off valve in the heater hose and how the switches work. I was putting the valves in just because I didn't want the hot coolant circulating in the heater core in the summer, because the box shares the heater core with the AC evaporator core, and I thought it a smart thing to do, not because it HAD TO BE DONE!! Also I've been wondering how the 2 switches worked for the A/C and heat and here it all is on this one page:

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